Remote Mount Oil Filter

[Ready Go]

Make oil changes great again!

Yesssss!!

 

[Nascar Tommy]

Installed the Pacbrake HP10596 kit and Fumoto F106S valve today.

Took me a few hours, but I like to work slow and smooth, so everything worked out without any problems.

I used an SRT-MO-041 filter left over from my Challenger SRT392, and ended up using almost exactly 8.0qts of Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 Full Synthetic oil.

I'm sending off an oil sample to Blackstone to see how it looks.

Next oil change is gonna be WAY easier now!! I put Fumoto valves on all my vehicles, but the Pacbrake remote is awesome too!

How many miles did you have?
I did my first oil change because it was a year old. Only 3,780 miles. Also sent to Blackstone two weeks ago. I've heard it can take 5 weeks.
I installed a Fumoto also but did not have the Pac brake kit in time so that will be next year!

 

[Ready Go]

How many miles did you have?
I did my first oil change because it was a year old. Only 3,780 miles. Also sent to Blackstone two weeks ago. I've heard it can take 5 weeks.
I installed a Fumoto also but did not have the Pac brake kit in time so that will be next year!

My truck is 5 months old and I did this first oil change and tire rotation at 5015 miles. My oil life gauge was at exactly 50%. I usually do my cars on 5000 mile intervals for oil and 10,000 miles for tire rotation, but this truck is super heavy, so I'll probably do both every 5,000 miles.

With the Pacbrake and SRT oil filter, the Hemi now takes 8.0qts, instead of 7.0qts. I got (2) 5qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 0W20 for $49.94 delivered to my house from Walmart. I've got one more SRT oil filter..and will stay with those..it's partially why I wanted the Pacbrake.

I guess the cost really isn't too bad for oil and filters..and it's a lot easier now, so I'll do the next change at 10k for sure..but will be curious what Blackstone has to say. I'll send that out on Monday.

**Edited to add...I'm sure I could go at least 7,500 miles now..or even 10,000 miles now with 8qts and with my past record of not keeping cars for long it wouldn't matter to me..except since the Hemi V8 is done, I want this truck to last (but the thought of stroking this 5.7 to a 397ci if this engine puked sounds kind of cool too!!!)

 

[HSKR R/T]

My truck is 5 months old and I did this first oil change and tire rotation at 5015 miles. My oil life gauge was at exactly 50%. I usually do my cars on 5000 mile intervals for oil and 10,000 miles for tire rotation, but this truck is super heavy, so I'll probably do both every 5,000 miles.

With the Pacbrake and SRT oil filter, the Hemi now takes 8.0qts, instead of 7.0qts. I got (2) 5qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 0W20 for $49.94 delivered to my house from Walmart. I've got one more SRT oil filter..and will stay with those..it's partially why I wanted the Pacbrake.

I guess the cost really isn't too bad for oil and filters..and it's a lot easier now, so I'll do the next change at 10k for sure..but will be curious what Blackstone has to say. I'll send that out on Monday.

**Edited to add...I'm sure I could go at least 7,500 miles now..or even 10,000 miles now with 8qts and with my past record of not keeping cars for long it wouldn't matter to me..except since the Hemi V8 is done, I want this truck to last (but the thought of stroking this 5.7 to a 397ci if this engine puked sounds kind of cool too!!!)

These are the same as the SRT filters without the Mopar name premium
WIX Spin-On Lube Filter https://a.co/d/8BnEEj9

 

[PurpleRT]

I’m just waiting on Pacbrake to button out the issues and for a longer term no leak review before I commit till then I’ll continue paying w/e local service center where I happen to be working when my oil change interval comes around to deal w/ the mess changing the filter from its stock location.

 

[Ready Go]

These are the same as the SRT filters without the Mopar name premium
WIX Spin-On Lube Filter https://a.co/d/8BnEEj9

Sure enough, looks exactly like the SRT filter. My buddy has a speed shop and races Pro Stock, and he always recommends WIX filters.

As a side benefit of the SRT (WIX) filters, the white color makes it easy to write the Date & Mileage on the bottom of the filter with a black marker (you can just see that in one of the pictures).

 

[Ready Go]

I meant to mention, being that the Pacbrake remotely mounts the oil cooler, I expect it to act as a pseudo oil cooler...and was really surprised that after taking a short 5 mile test drive after installing the kit, when I went to recheck the fittings, etc for any leaks how HOT the remote billet mount and oil filter were!! My oil temperature gauge was only up to 190° at the time even (I had let it idle for a few minutes before the test drive to warm it up some).

There definitely has to be some oil cooling affect from that, in my mind. Added bonus!

**Sidenote, I did use Locktite High Temperature Thread Sealer (slightly pinkish White kind) on all the threads). I hate oil leaks and I love that sealer..always works!

 

[Rick3478]

**Sidenote, I did use Locktite High Temperature Thread Sealer (slightly pinkish White kind) on all the threads). I hate oil leaks and I love that sealer..always works!

I believe that thread sealer is intended for tapered pipe threads, but aren't the Pacbrake parts all o-ring hydraulic fittings? I hope you didn't make trouble for yourself down the road.

 

[Ready Go]

I believe that thread sealer is intended for tapered pipe threads, but aren't the Pacbrake parts all o-ring hydraulic fittings? I hope you didn't make trouble for yourself down the road.

They do have O-ring washers, but I always use Loctite for stuff like this..it always seals. I'd rather know the threads are sealed now, then have to redo/tighten for any leaks later.

Not worried at all..now

 

[6of36]

Just did my first oil change, after installing PacBrake, and Fumoto valve. I installed them at 3,000, when I did first oil change. This one was at 8,000. So easy to do now. I have a Limited, so I just raise to OR2, and crawl under, without jacking up. The filter, is tucked right behint the bumper, and I got the Fumoto, that I can attach the hose to. I put a one gallon jug underneath, with the hose right in it. Open the valve, and when 1st jug is full, close valve, and switch jugs. No mess. You only need a pan, to catch the oil, under the filter, which is a lot, because the lines drain there too.

 

[Ready Go]

Just did my first oil change, after installing PacBrake, and Fumoto valve. I installed them at 3,000, when I did first oil change. This one was at 8,000. So easy to do now. I have a Limited, so I just raise to OR2, and crawl under, without jacking up. The filter, is tucked right behint the bumper, and I got the Fumoto, that I can attach the hose to. I put a one gallon jug underneath, with the hose right in it. Open the valve, and when 1st jug is full, close valve, and switch jugs. No mess. You only need a pan, to catch the oil, under the filter, which is a lot, because the lines drain there too.

Even without air I can crawl under mine, so yep..easy street now

 

[Rick3478]

They do have O-ring washers, but I always use Loctite for stuff like this..it always seals. I'd rather know the threads are sealed now, then have to redo/tighten for any leaks later.

Not worried at all..now

My point is that the threads don't need to be sealed, that's what the o-rings are for. Actually, trying to seal the threads may prevent oil from getting to the 0-rings and those surfaces may corrode because of it. And you probably contaminated your oil, with traces of sealer now floating around in it.

Sorry to be a buzzkill, but I'd be negligent if I didn't warn others who may read this thread.

 

[Ready Go]

My point is that the threads don't need to be sealed, that's what the o-rings are for. Actually, trying to seal the threads may prevent oil from getting to the 0-rings and those surfaces may corrode because of it. And you probably contaminated your oil, with traces of sealer now floating around in it.

Sorry to be a buzzkill, but I'd be negligent if I didn't warn others who may read this thread.

I get it..but I only put sealer at middle to farthest edge of threads. Also I checked after assembly to see that non had gotten into any area that would be exposed.

I totally get your point, I have my way of doing things that I've proven to myself over decades and .any vehicles.

Probably not for everyone, so thanks for pointing it out.

I'm sure there could be a lengthy discussion on me doing a first oil change at 5000 miles also

 

[Ramboh]

I meant to mention, being that the Pacbrake remotely mounts the oil cooler, I expect it to act as a pseudo oil cooler...and was really surprised that after taking a short 5 mile test drive after installing the kit, when I went to recheck the fittings, etc for any leaks how HOT the remote billet mount and oil filter were!! My oil temperature gauge was only up to 190° at the time even (I had let it idle for a few minutes before the test drive to warm it up some).

There definitely has to be some oil cooling affect from that, in my mind. Added bonus!

**Sidenote, I did use Locktite High Temperature Thread Sealer (slightly pinkish White kind) on all the threads). I hate oil leaks and I love that sealer..always works!

oil cooler stays in place, it only moves the filter itself.

 

[Ready Go]

oil cooler stays in place, it only moves the filter itself.

True..I'm saying that the Pacbrake's billet adapter hub, billet remote mount, and oil filter being in an open airflow space also dissipate a lot of heat and act as a "pseudo" oil cooler too.

Ram Hemi's don't have an AIR oil cooler, they have a WATER oil "cooler". The oil to water "cooler" that is between the block and the oil filter gets radiator fluid directly from the lower radiator hose flowing through it. It's designed to help heat UP the oil faster at start up, and slightly cool DOWN the oil once the oil and radiator fluid are up to operating temperatures. Most engines have optimal oil temperatures ranging from 220-230° and the Hemi probably has about a 205° thermostat.

One other thing I should note, I've seen and read somewhere (maybe Waterfowler41) that the Pacbrake hoses run over the transmission cooler hoses, but on my 2024 (something changed?) it was cleaner (better clearance) to zip tie the trans hoses together (and slightly bent their metal mount line) and run the Pacbrake hoses under the trans hoses.

This first pic is of hose over and the second pic is of my hoses under.

 

[twr]

Super interested in getting this kit.. but I have a question for anyone that purchased it. Hard to tell from the photos, but the id of those 90° fittings look smaller then the id of threaded stub on oe oil filter housing. Are they? If they are, any of you worried about reduced oil flow at higher RPMs? I have 0 experience with the 5.7 when it comes to this, my experience comes from performance V6 engines with high volume oil pumps and the relocation kit I used back in the day came with -10 fittings and lines.

Thanks,

Terry

 

[Ready Go]

Super interested in getting this kit.. but I have a question for anyone that purchased it. Hard to tell from the photos, but the id of those 90° fittings look smaller then the id of threaded stub on oil filter housing. Are they? If they are, any of you worried about reduced oil flow at higher RPMs? I have 0 experience with the 5.7 when it comes to this, my experience comes from performance V6 engines with high volume oil pumps and the relocation kit I used back in the day came with -10 fittings and lines.

Thanks,

Terry

The ID is the same throughout the fittings..and they AN style couplings..I wish I had checked the size before putting it all together. My oil gauge is showing 45+/-- psi most of the time while cruising. It drops to ~30psi at a very hot idle.

Not sure if this helps you(?)

 

[twr]

The ID is the same throughout the fittings..and they AN style couplings..I wish I had checked the size before putting it all together. My oil gauge is showing 45+/-- psi most of the time while cruising. It drops to ~30psi at a very hot idle.

Not sure if this helps you(?)

Just re-read my post, to clarify I was wondering how the size of the fittings compared to the id of threaded stub on the OE filter housing.

 

[Ready Go]

Just re-read my post, to clarify I was wondering how the size of the fittings compared to the id of threaded stub on the OE filter housing.

Ahhh, the hose fittings are definitely a smaller ID..probably half(+) the size of the ID of the oil filter threaded fitting..if that's what you're asking(?).

Smaller for sure, but keep in mind, oil passages in the block, crank, heads, etc are small also.

I've used oil coolers and filter relocators on engines and superchargers a number of times without ever having a problem.

I'm sure Pacbrake isn't in the business of building a product that would potentially harm engines either.

 

[A-TEAM]

My point is that the threads don't need to be sealed, that's what the o-rings are for. Actually, trying to seal the threads may prevent oil from getting to the 0-rings and those surfaces may corrode because of it. And you probably contaminated your oil, with traces of sealer now floating around in it.

Sorry to be a buzzkill, but I'd be negligent if I didn't warn others who may read this thread.

I used loctite 542 hydraulic locker on my install too. Some of the fittings are flare and I used it on the face of the flare and on the threads of everything. So far no ill effects and 0 leaks.