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Rear Support

LoNeStAr

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For those of you pulling travel trailers and heavy enclosed trailers, what have you done suspension wise or are you running stock? I have read a lot of threads and most seem to be doing air bags (helper bags) but when running a wdh is it necessary? Maybe just some upgraded shocks will be an improvement? Thanks in advance for your opinions.
 

blakei

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I’m towing a 28’ TT, about 8000 lbs and 1100 lbs tongue weight. Using an e2 WDH (for now). Rear sagged a few inches, so I installed Timber Grove bags. Clean install, really helped with sag. After I dialed in my WDH I found that adding 15-20 PSI brought the truck back to level (about 2-3”).

The other bonus is I use the air bags to help boost the WDH up when attaching the weight bars rather than make the jack do all the lifting. I inflate the bags to 30+ PSI then reduce before lowering the hitch once bars engaged.


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LoNeStAr

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I’m towing a 28’ TT, about 8000 lbs and 1100 lbs tongue weight. Using an e2 WDH (for now). Rear sagged a few inches, so I installed Timber Grove bags. Clean install, really helped with sag. After I dialed in my WDH I found that adding 15-20 PSI brought the truck back to level (about 2-3”).

The other bonus is I use the air bags to help boost the WDH up when attaching the weight bars rather than make the jack do all the lifting. I inflate the bags to 30+ PSI then reduce before lowering the hitch once bars engaged.


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Thanks for the info Blakei. Where did you install the valve to air up the bags, any pics? Or do you have onboard air?
 

ZonaRam44

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I think I'm leaning towards sumosprings or timbrens. I like that they are worry free and if I'm under 2 inches of sag I'll be happy.
 

Trooper4

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I think I'm leaning towards sumosprings or timbrens. I like that they are worry free and if I'm under 2 inches of sag I'll be happy.
Sag is a real killer for anyone looking into your headlights after dark. A good WDH and proper setup should get rid of any sag.
 

LaxDfns15

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Thanks for the info Blakei. Where did you install the valve to air up the bags, any pics? Or do you have onboard air?
I also have Timber Grove bags. They give you install directions about putting the valve in the rear driver corner of the bed. It was extremely easy to install there since there's already a hole, and I also installed a wireless compressor so I have a backup option if needed.
 

Wilsonwanderings

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I've been wondering about this as well. I put a level/spacer kit on mine while I wait for the kit from Carli to hit the market. It is fairly level while empty but even towing my little 2k lb offroad teardrop it sags a bit low for my liking. It has an offroad hitch on it for articulation so I wouldn't want to put a WDH on it. Was thinking of going a bit heavier on the rear springs rather than adding airbags. Anyone have experience with adding bags and the impact on articulation?
 

Edsram2019

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I think I'm leaning towards sumosprings or timbrens. I like that they are worry free and if I'm under 2 inches of sag I'll be happy.

I have a Wildwood XLite 273 QBXL that I just bought, (finally traded in my Avenger 26BH).

The Camper is 33 total (nose to bumper) and 6100 Dry. I have the E2 WDH with round bars (1,000 / 10,000 rating) and Timbrens. It seems to ride pretty solid for a half ton with a big trailer. I already towed it 3 hours across Michigan and it was a pretty good drive.

The Timbrens keep the stock ride nice and help with sag, Bags may be a better pick but they will take longer to install and prob will cost nearly twice as much.
 

Trooper4

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If you have sag then your taking weight off the front end. The rear axle is just a pivot point. Bags or spacers level you, but they don't put any weight back on the front tires. A WDH is a must. It distributed the weight back to where it is supposed to be with torsion/spring bars. If set up properly they pull weight off of the rear and lode it back to the front. When the WDH first came out in the 50's/60's I saw a demonstration where after setup with over tension, they removed the rear wheels to show how it bridges . Get a WDH and do it properly and save yourselves a headache down the road. Literally.
 

blakei

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Agree that the WDH is a must, but still had some sag so I put in the Timber Grove bags. Love the bonus of boosting the truck up to help with hitching.

Here are some photos of bags installed. The air line is routed around the spare tire and tucks into the bumper cover near the hitch. Easily accessible and out of sight. I use a small battery air compressor to inflate.
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LoNeStAr

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Yep. Also agree that having WDH is a must. But nothing wrong with having the bags to take care of that little extra sag.
 

ZonaRam44

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If you have sag then your taking weight off the front end. The rear axle is just a pivot point. Bags or spacers level you, but they don't put any weight back on the front tires. A WDH is a must. It distributed the weight back to where it is supposed to be with torsion/spring bars. If set up properly they pull weight off of the rear and lode it back to the front. When the WDH first came out in the 50's/60's I saw a demonstration where after setup with over tension, they removed the rear wheels to show how it bridges . Get a WDH and do it properly and save yourselves a headache down the road. Literally.
I don't think anyone is saying they're towing 6k+ lbs without a WDH. Heavy tongue weight and a 100lb WDH will cause some sag. If I can use an e4 or e2 and not get too much sag then great. Otherwise, im leaning towards a bump stop upgrade so I don't have adjusted airbags.
 

Trooper4

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I don't think anyone is saying they're towing 6k+ lbs without a WDH. Heavy tongue weight and a 100lb WDH will cause some sag. If I can use an e4 or e2 and not get too much sag then great. Otherwise, im leaning towards a bump stop upgrade so I don't have adjusted airbags.
I towed for many many years with a WDH, and when set up properly wit a truck that is sprung properly, there was no sag. If you can't pull the WDH enough to eliminate the sag, then reload the trailer, get a lighter tongue weight trailer, or a 2500/3500. A truck and trailer is just a tool. Get the tools that work together properly. A light front end is an accident waiting to happen. This isn't a tractor pull.
 

Edsram2019

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I towed for many many years with a WDH, and when set up properly wit a truck that is sprung properly, there was no sag. If you can't pull the WDH enough to eliminate the sag, then reload the trailer, get a lighter tongue weight trailer, or a 2500/3500. A truck and trailer is just a tool. Get the tools that work together properly. A light front end is an accident waiting to happen. This isn't a tractor pull.

Solid advice all around, however, there are situations where I may not want my sway / wd bars on (such as backing into driveway, backing into tight camp space, driving through a very curvy campsite) so I like knowing that I can take the bars off and still remain level.

I 100% agree a good quality WDH set up correctly is the end all, I however still like knowing I have a little more strength in the rear under load with the timbrens.
 

LoNeStAr

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Solid advice all around, however, there are situations where I may not want my sway / wd bars on (such as backing into driveway, backing into tight camp space, driving through a very curvy campsite) so I like knowing that I can take the bars off and still remain level.

I 100% agree a good quality WDH set up correctly is the end all, I however still like knowing I have a little more strength in the rear under load with the timbrens.
I agree 100%
 

Turin

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[T]here are situations where I may not want my sway / wd bars on (such as backing into driveway, backing into tight camp space, driving through a very curvy campsite) so I like knowing that I can take the bars off and still remain level.
ProPride for the win! The hitch allows the TV and TT to be at nearly 90° to each other without disengaging weight distribution. Not that that's an argument against bags, of course. Plenty of folks use both.
 

Coopers_Dad

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+1 for Timbergrove, simple clean and functional kit. I've used bags for years for all sorts of different reasons. With the saggy rear end of the Gen 4 and Gen 5 something as simple as a open deck car trailer with my JKU on it can cause more sag than I'm happy with. Nice to level things back up.

As for the ProPride I have a Hensley and they do work extreamly well but with my Gen 5 the extra weight of the hitch ate into the very last little bit of payload I had with my trailer fully loaded.
 

Big Dave TX

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For Rams without air bags, I added Timbren ($228) supports to lessen my sag and my perceived lower drivability . I am not an engineer but it completely solved my sag/wag/sway even with a WDH. It's a simple remedy and it's been a GREAT . See my post on towing 32' .
 

silver billet

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I haven't tried them yet, but I'm looking into the Sumo Springs. They replace the bump stops, and are basically progressive springs made of a very hard poly-something-or-other. They are completely maintenance free (air bags can break/leak), and since they are progressive, when unloaded you maintain the exceptional ride quality of the truck, but the more weight you add the more they help level the ride.
 

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