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Rear Support

I am still torn between timber bags and sumo springs. I like the idea of having the adjustability with the bags but also like the idea of no maintenance or anything else that the sumos provide.
 
My Timbrens are solid, no air or adjustments. The way I understand it, they retain an inch or two of native spring action for the regular ride and then provide more stiffness when the load goes below the first couple of inches. They are supposedly easy to install but I was on vacation and had to get it done in a shop so they were a little pricier than for someone who is able to self install. I'm all for any kind of sag help, just relating my experience.
 
Timbren are basically a progressive support spring similar to sumo’s correct?
 
I think I am leaning towards sumo’s over timbrens. Timbrens are a harder rubber than the sumo’s.
 
Does anyone have any experience comparing axle articulation before and after install of a Sumo or Timbren fixed support bumpstop replacement? I'd like to retain as much as possible, but the simplicity of not having to adjust air pressure in bags has some appeal for sure.
 
I have the Timber Grove ASAM bags, not Coil replacement. I added the Air Lift EZ Mount air system ($400 on Amazon) and adding/ changing pressure is very easy and it automatically adjusts as well.

I'm using the Husky TS Centerline 800-1200 WDH, it gets me close to level, so I don't use a lot of pressure in the bags. The key benefit has been helping with bounce when I'm pulling my 7,200 lb Travel trailer.

I added a Hellwig Sway bar this week and also I'm swapping to Bilstein 5100s all around. Will be able to try it all out in a few weeks on our Trip to Oregon.
 
I'm curious to know how or if the sumo affect articulation as well?


Edit: just found this link and seems to make sense if you think about it: https://www.etrailer.com/question-388971.html

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Yeah, it totally makes sense from a theory perspective, and obviously air bags at minimal pressure would provide better articulation than something solid. I was looking for a real world evaluation of what that actually means in practice on a truck like this. I don't have any feel for how much "squish" they'll allow under normal unloaded wheeling loads. Can you still stuff a 35 up into the wheel well or are you suddenly looking at a 3 inch gap with the other side dangling?
 
How many of you that added timbrens or sumos also added an anti sway bar such as the Hellwig?
 
For those that installed Timbrens did you go with the 1/2 or 1 1/2 spacing? 1/2 doesn’t seem like enough to me to keep a comfortable ride when not hauling. I would think speed bumps and small bumps would engage the stop.
 
I have the same questions as Lonestar. Timbrens might be my first ticket simply for rear support when hauling in the bed. But a thicker sway bar like Hellwig sounds great for towing...
 
I think I have made the decision to go with sumo’s and then a Hellwig sway bar. Has anyone swapped out stock shocks yet for something a little more stout or do you feel this isn’t necessary?
 
I think I have made the decision to go with sumo’s and then a Hellwig sway bar. Has anyone swapped out stock shocks yet for something a little more stout or do you feel this isn’t necessary?

I just put in Bilsteins 5100s on all 4, went with notch 4 on the front to give 1.5" leveling lift. I'm happy so far, will know after this long trip to Oregon pulling our travel trailer.

Along with my factory ORP I should be able to get 35x11.50 tires on it now.
 
I just put in Bilsteins 5100s on all 4, went with notch 4 on the front to give 1.5" leveling lift. I'm happy so far, will know after this long trip to Oregon pulling our travel trailer.

Along with my factory ORP I should be able to get 35x11.50 tires on it now.
I have seen a lot of people going to the Bilstein 5100 but I have no interest in lifting my truck so not sure they are worth it.
 
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I have seen a lot of people going to the Bilstein 5100 but I have no interest in lifting my truck so not sure they are worth it.

To be clear, I didn't lift the overall, I merely lifted the front a bit to make it more level as opposed to the factory rake. I have no desire to lift the rear or the overall. And the Bilstein fronts can be used at position 1 which maintains factory ride height.
 
To be clear, I didn't lift the overall, I merely lifted the front a bit to make it more level as opposed to the factory rake. I have no desire to lift the rear or the overall. And the Bilstein fronts can be used at position 1 which maintains factory ride height.
Ahhhh. Report back on the trip to Oregon pulling the travel trailer. I will be interested to hear your report (y)
 
I have to admit I didn't specify what level of Timbrens I got because I was on vacation and I was desperate, but I am very pleased with my result. I've made several trips since, including a 900 mile trip with both interstate and state highways. I had several bad weather episodes on the interstate and I am completely satisfied. They are rated for 10,000# so I am good for now and for the upgrade (more room) I am looking at. That included a couple of trips to the beach (under 200 mi. each). Sway is GONE. Towing is a breeze. I'm very satisfied.
 
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I put air bags on my 3500 and installed the fill hose at the license plate bolt. Worked perfect. They not only help with leveling but also helps with porpoising. WDH will do most of the leveling. IMO a properly WDH and air bags are a must when pulling close to limits.
 
For those that have, or will, put on a Hellwig bar, I’d like to hear if it helped. I’m not quite sure what it is intended to do, or how much difference it would make.


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