Really want to tow this trailer with a 2019 Ram 1500

[devildodge]

Okay, maybe someone can help me, I am new to towing and really don't understand it. We are looking at buying a 2019 Dodge Ram Limited with the V8 and 3.92 rear axel. We are also purchasing a 20ft Enclosed Aluminum Tailer with an empty weight of 3200 lbs, dual 3500 lbs axels to haul our Slingshot which has a weight of about 2000 lbs. Can the truck we are looking at tow this configuration or do I need to look at the Ram 2500?

The 1500 should serve that purpose fine.

 

[Jus Cruisin]

Okay, maybe someone can help me, I am new to towing and really don't understand it. We are looking at buying a 2019 Dodge Ram Limited with the V8 and 3.92 rear axel. We are also purchasing a 20ft Enclosed Aluminum Tailer with an empty weight of 3200 lbs, dual 3500 lbs axels to haul our Slingshot which has a weight of about 2000 lbs. Can the truck we are looking at tow this configuration or do I need to look at the Ram 2500?

Easy peasy.....



20 foot v-nose probably 7500ish lbs. with my Camaro in it. Pulled this from Florida to Michigan about a month ago.

 

[tkrpata]

Easy peasy.....

View attachment 30343

20 foot v-nose probably 7500ish lbs. with my Camaro in it. Pulled this from Florida to Michigan about a month ago.

That is exactly what I am planning on pulling with, 8.5 X 20 v-nose trailer with my Slingshot in it along with some tools, clothes, spare tire.
How did it handle in the mountains and any problems downhill with breaking or trying to push you?

 

[Jus Cruisin]

That is exactly what I am planning on pulling with, 8.5 X 20 v-nose trailer with my Slingshot in it along with some tools, clothes, spare tire.
How did it handle in the mountains and any problems downhill with breaking or trying to push you?

No real mountains to go up or down between Florida and Michigan. No troubles whatsoever. Now I've done a fair amount of towing over the years I had a Class A license and dragged 53' trailers from coast to coast. The Rockies and like Donner Pass in the Sierra Nevada's are mountains. As long as you get your vehicle properly loaded front to back it'll tow fine. Semi's didn't phase me passing and it was windy to boot. Too little tongue weight and it'll wag you like crazy. Too much and front steering will be kind of sketchy with a crummy ride. You don't need a gob of tongue weight. You want to pull it, not carry it.

 

[tkrpata]

No real mountains to go up or down between Florida and Michigan. No troubles whatsoever. Now I've done a fair amount of towing over the years I had a Class A license and dragged 53' trailers from coast to coast. The Rockies and like Donner Pass in the Sierra Nevada's are mountains. As long as you get your vehicle properly loaded front to back it'll tow fine. Semi's didn't phase me passing and it was windy to boot. Too little tongue weight and it'll wag you like crazy. Too much and front steering will be kind of sketchy with a crummy ride. You don't need a gob of tongue weight. You want to pull it, not carry it.

Okay another question from the newbie, how do you determine tongue weight and find out if your under or over it?

 

[riccnick]

Okay another question from the newbie, how do you determine tongue weight and find out if your under or over it?

Without a scale, it's all an estimate. If you know what your trailer weighs empty, and it's tongue weight, you can estimate what the tongue weight would be with the trailer loaded (evenly). However, if you really want to know, you have to weigh the truck and trailer.

 

[devildodge]

A Comprehensive Guide to Towing with the 2019 RAM 1500 - Everything You Need to Know!

Hi all at 5thgenrams.com! If you are having a hard time understanding or calculating your truck's Payload or Max Trailer Tow capacity based on your specific vehicle's configuration, look no further! I have put together a comprehensive guide to help everyone understand how FCA has determined and...

5thgenrams.com

Many threads about how to do it.

For bumper pull should be 10 to 12 %

Only way for sure is with a scale and a pipe or a CAT scale.

 

[Jus Cruisin]

Okay another question from the newbie, how do you determine tongue weight and find out if your under or over it?

I go how I feel the nose drop as I'm driving the car in the trailer. The nose of the trailer will raise as you start in, then it'll drop back and stay kind of level for a couple of feet and then drop as you add weight to the tongue. I feel it drop a couple of inches and call it good. It doesn't need to be perfect. Because you don't have a bunch of experience and if the trailer dealer isn't too far from you, I'd take your slingshot over and have the store help you out. They'll have a scale. There seems like the slingshot has a lot of its weight over the rear. It might be best to back it in. That way you won't need to pull it way near the nose to get it balanced. If the center trailer spring perch is ****ed a bunch you're nose or tail heavy. You want the spring perch close to even. Once you get it positioned, put some tape on the floor to help you get it positioned right the next time.

I know the rule of thumb is 10%. I know I never come close to that with car trailers or boat trailers. With the open trailers I've had, I could watch the rear of the truck loading and I'd drop the rear of the truck about 2" from unloaded. I still do that with my enclosed trailers. If I put 700 lbs on my hitch I'd drop the rear of the truck probably 3+". Go to a bracket race at a drag strip and watch the pickups pulling race cars in. None use weight distribution hitches and none are sitting with the rears drooping except for the guys with big lifts. They are always seeming to have the headlights aimed at the trees because of the rear sagging.

 

[tkrpata]

I go how I feel the nose drop as I'm driving the car in the trailer. The nose of the trailer will raise as you start in, then it'll drop back and stay kind of level for a couple of feet and then drop as you add weight to the tongue. I feel it drop a couple of inches and call it good. It doesn't need to be perfect. Because you don't have a bunch of experience and if the trailer dealer isn't too far from you, I'd take your slingshot over and have the store help you out. They'll have a scale. There seems like the slingshot has a lot of its weight over the rear. It might be best to back it in. That way you won't need to pull it way near the nose to get it balanced. If the center trailer spring perch is ****ed a bunch you're nose or tail heavy. You want the spring perch close to even. Once you get it positioned, put some tape on the floor to help you get it positioned right the next time.

I know the rule of thumb is 10%. I know I never come close to that with car trailers or boat trailers. With the open trailers I've had, I could watch the rear of the truck loading and I'd drop the rear of the truck about 2" from unloaded. I still do that with my enclosed trailers. If I put 700 lbs on my hitch I'd drop the rear of the truck probably 3+". Go to a bracket race at a drag strip and watch the pickups pulling race cars in. None use weight distribution hitches and none are sitting with the rears drooping except for the guys with big lifts. They are always seeming to have the headlights aimed at the trees because of the rear sagging.

Thank you, some very good information, and believe it or not most of the Slingshot weight is over the front tires, that is where the engine is located

 

[MQQSE]

I don't think being 2,000 lbs over capacity in your mega cab is a good example of how that truck, or any other truck should be used to tow over its capacity...

If you want your 99% truck as a daily driver, then get a 99% trailer, or borrow / rent the proper truck for those 1% days. Anyone who tows more than 3.65 days a year is using their truck more than 1% for towing, so I'd imagine those of us who just drop a trailer down at a campsite as seasonals are the only ones following the 99/1 rule. Everyone else should be looking at more capable trucks or lighter trailers.

Somehow, many of us are capable of living our lives within the capabilities of our trucks, with either the foresight to buy the proper truck, or the common sense and decency to pull the proper trailer with it. Not sure why this is so difficult for others. Not once has my life been significantly impeded by the lack of capability of my 8,000lb capacity truck to tow a 12,000lb trailer. Maybe I'm just lucky.

Sorry about the typo, I meant 7,800 pound trailer not 9,800. That's wet weight (fully loaded), and dry is like 6,500 pounds and change. I will say that truck could have towed 9,800 pounds though. It had a 3/4 ton frame and 3/4 ton axles with a 3:73 gearing. She was a good hauler.
NO I'm not ever saying to tow over the capacity of the truck, what I'm saying is you should look at what you use your truck for most of the time, not that one or two times when you haul something. When it comes to asking yourself "how much can I tow?" An 80% rule of the total maximum rating of your truck is a safe rule for everyone (except those that have not towed in the past). Meaning, if your truck is rated for 11,500 pounds towing, you can tow 9,200 pounds with no issues (travel trailer included). If you have a CDL like I do, and know how to tow or operate equipment, you can go up to 90% of the total truck's max rating - When at 90% that does not include a travel trailer, at that weight percentage on use flat trailer with no large sides to catch air.

I'll post a photo next time I hook up my trailer and also get a shot of the weight ratings from the trailer tag. I'll do that so everyone can see it is in fact 7,800 pounds wet. I want to make sure to calm those certain people out there in internet land that don't believe someone when they accidentally mis-post a number. I'm hooking it up August 25th, so will repost here.

Cheers
MQQSE

 

[riccnick]

Sorry about the typo, I meant 7,800 pound trailer not 9,800. That's wet weight (fully loaded), and dry is like 6,500 pounds and change. I will say that truck could have towed 9,800 pounds though. It had a 3/4 ton frame and 3/4 ton axles with a 3:73 gearing. She was a good hauler.
NO I'm not ever saying to tow over the capacity of the truck, what I'm saying is you should look at what you use your truck for most of the time, not that one or two times when you haul something. When it comes to asking yourself "how much can I tow?" An 80% rule of the total maximum rating of your truck is a safe rule for everyone (except those that have not towed in the past). Meaning, if your truck is rated for 11,500 pounds towing, you can tow 9,200 pounds with no issues (travel trailer included). If you have a CDL like I do, and know how to tow or operate equipment, you can go up to 90% of the total truck's max rating - When at 90% that does not include a travel trailer, at that weight percentage on use flat trailer with no large sides to catch air.

I'll post a photo next time I hook up my trailer and also get a shot of the weight ratings from the trailer tag. I'll do that so everyone can see it is in fact 7,800 pounds wet. I want to make sure to calm those certain people out there in internet land that don't believe someone when they accidentally mis-post a number. I'm hooking it up August 25th, so will repost here.

Cheers
MQQSE

Thanks for the clarification, and I'm sure all of us look forward to the scale tickets. Seeing real numbers on real trucks helps a ton when gauging what's feasible and what's not.

I'll counter the other way to your argument now, lol. I don't need a CDL to tow 100% of what my truck is rated for, travel trailer or not. Numbers are numbers, and if my truck can tow 8k, then I'll tow up to that number without hesitation. Does my confidence come from experience (just as it would coming from having a CDL)? Yes, so, just like everything else, your (collective "you", not YOU you) experience may vary.

 

[MQQSE]

Thanks for the clarification, and I'm sure all of us look forward to the scale tickets. Seeing real numbers on real trucks helps a ton when gauging what's feasible and what's not.

I'll counter the other way to your argument now, lol. I don't need a CDL to tow 100% of what my truck is rated for, travel trailer or not. Numbers are numbers, and if my truck can tow 8k, then I'll tow up to that number without hesitation. Does my confidence come from experience (just as it would coming from having a CDL)? Yes, so, just like everything else, your (collective "you", not YOU you) experience may vary.

When I say CDL, I'm basically saying I have multiple experiences with all sorts of heavy equipment to include 18 wheel fuel tanker, 18 wheel tractor trailer, etc. etc. Having a CDL keeps you actively towing multiple vehicles in most cases and it's all about experience both understanding the road, other drivers and your equipment. Not having a CDL doesn't mean you can't tow like a pro...the chances are just a lot less.

Anyway, here is my trailer weight decal and my truck hooked up to it. I was really impressed on how well the 1500 both did with the tongue weight and how it pulled. Keep in mind I also have a 2500 Cummins Megacab that is set up just for towing and hauling. So going into a 1500 gasser is extremely hard for me to swallow.

Thanks for the clarification, and I'm sure all of us look forward to the scale tickets. Seeing real numbers on real trucks helps a ton when gauging what's feasible and what's not.

I'll counter the other way to your argument now, lol. I don't need a CDL to tow 100% of what my truck is rated for, travel trailer or not. Numbers are numbers, and if my truck can tow 8k, then I'll tow up to that number without hesitation. Does my confidence come from experience (just as it would coming from having a CDL)? Yes, so, just like everything else, your (collective "you", not YOU you) experience may vary.

When I say CDL, I'm basically saying I have multiple experiences with all sorts of heavy equipment to include 18 wheel fuel tanker, 18 wheel tractor trailer, etc. etc. Having a CDL keeps you actively towing multiple vehicles in most cases and it's all about experience both understanding the road, other drivers and your equipment. Not having a CDL doesn't mean you can't tow like a pro...the chances are just a lot less.

Anyway, here is my trailer weight decal and my truck hooked up to it. I was really impressed on how well the 1500 both did with the tongue weight and how it pulled. Keep in mind I also have a 2500 Cummins Megacab that is set up just for towing and hauling. So going into a 1500 gasser is extremely hard for me to swallow.

 

[MQQSE]

Here is my other hauler, Cummins 6.7 with a 4.10 rear.

 

[Arawji]

i recently purchased my 2020 Ram 1500 limited and i was very skeptical about towing my monster of a trailer, but after doing a lot of research everything pointed towards YES it will be fine. i am towing my 2019 outback 37'(bumper to hitch) trailer with a dry weight of 8200 pounds, and maybe 10,000 loaded (on a bad day). I use a curt tru track weight distribution with sway control hitch and keep in mind my truck does have the 4 corner air suspension. I know air suspension does not distribute the weigh(hence my curt system) but it sure helps keep the truck perfectly level for good braking and stance. On smaller trips city or hwy i have found the truck sure could use more power but it is more than adequate, however on one trip on an open hwy there were some winds and i would probably gauge them at a semi strong wind and this is where it was getting a bit hairy, i could really feel and see the sway occurring but thanks to the anti sway bars and built in sway control on the truck it equalized very quickly. All in all i wouldn't say tow these weights/sizes regularly and long distances with a 1500 but for local trips and the odd long one the truck will perform just fine. Hope that helps

 

[Airstreampilot]

I towed a 34' 10,000 pound Airstream for 10 years with a 5.4L gas F150 and a ProPride hitch. We went back and forth over the Allegheny Mountains as well as an 11,000' pass in the Rockies without difficulty. Literally thousands of miles. With he ProPride and either the Hemi or Ecodiesel, you will be fine for what you are describing.

 

[upwindstorm]

Story Time. .

I know a guy that used to tow once or twice a year overpayload with a 08 Silverado 1500 LTZ extended cab with 6'6" box , helper bags and E rated tires. he had a 670lb ATV in the bed with a 28 ft camper hooked to it with a tounge weight of probably 800lbs with his occupants inside that added up to 600lbs. well past its payload rating. The well maintained vehicle handled just fine and stopped fine. he just purchased a 19 Laramie Crew with the 6'4" box with much heavier rated helper bags and E rated tires again and tells me he still plans on making his yearly 250 mile trip.

 

[Willwork4truck]

This is a never ending discussion but it will help a newer to towing person. At the risk of offending the “get the proper truck” crowd, (which I actually belong to), I would have to say that towing a 2 horse steel trailer with 2 nags that weighed about 1500# apiece behind a 1966 Pontiac Catalina was exceeding by any measure, the rear axle and the gvwr... our family did this for 5 years before we moved up to a 3/4 T truck.

The horse trailer had electric brakes on both axles and we were using a Reese equalizer hitch so the ol’ Pontiac was equipped as best as could be. Of course that was back when the typical tow vehicle (in the horse world) was a station wagon... now if you compare that % of overloading (drum brakes yet) to a 2020 RAM 1500 with a 10K trailer, I’d say that the RAM is actually safer to tow with.

Do I recommend towing heavy with a 1/2 ton (rated) truck? No, but it won’t kill everyone else on the road either. Are owners going to justify towing too big for all safety purposes? Yep, that’s never changed. Seems to me we were violating that rule back in the late 60’s with the horses.

As with any argument, this won’t satisfy either side however I’d offer that vehicle speed is the biggest issue for safety. Excess speed with a trailer of any size will kill you and others way faster (pun) than a slightly overloaded rear axle will.

I’d rather see every person who tows in excess of 8K halfway regularly in a 2500 or bigger but that won’t ever happen, outside of the coming nanny state.

 

[apexodus]

I can assure any one reading this that if you are over the payload capacity (which is the limiting factor here, and very easy to do with a 750lb tongue weight) and are involved in an accident, your own insurance company will use this against you.

I would highly recommend having a weight ticket in your vehicle (Showing you are within manufacturers guidelines) as well as having a conversation with your insurance company about Your state’s requirements.

Just a heads up!

 

[Daniel]

Hi to all;

Currently driving a 2017 Ram 2500, 6.4L Laramie with every option except Diesel, which I had previously and simply don't need. It's my 3rd Ram, has been a good truck, but really want to step down into a 1500 because it suits my daily needs far better. 1/2 the payment on a lease, 2x the gas mileage (approx). Much nicer to drive, park, maneuver.

I drive about 20,000 miles a year. I haul lightweight things in the bed, use 4WD in Michigan winters, make 2 school runs every morning, commute back and forth to my store. I don't need to snow plow, I don't need to haul cinderblocks in the back, etc. This truck is incredibly overkill for my daily needs, the payment is huge, my avg fuel mileage is horrendous (around town this winter, it's under 10mpg), the part-time 4WD is rudimentary and overall ride is what you'd expect from a 3/4 ton truck. It is my last choice of vehicles to drive of the 3 that we have.....

I actually take my wife's 2014 Escalade to run the kids to school and back, because of better AWD, lower center of gravity, better weight balance, and mileage in the high teens.

We're on track this year to put 25,000 miles on her Escalade and 5,000 on the truck this year, because of this.

BUT, here's the kicker - We have a large bumper-pull camper that we tow locally 2 times a summer (10 miles round trip) and once to the Upper Peninsula on a 750 mile round-trip vacation. That's it. I am 100% confident a 1500 Ram will tow it to the local campground, but am unsure about the longer trip. (Honestly, I'd sell the blasted camper if my wife didn't love it so much, hahaha).

We have 5 family members (450# total). Topper on the truck (250#). Camper is a 2013 Cougar 32RBK. Specs show it is about 7400# dry (we've removed one of the scissor-sofas), tongue weight about 750#. I have a Pro-Pride anti-sway hitch (aka Hensley Arrow).

I'm going to approximate (haven't scaled it) that it is 8500-9,000# loaded.

I would order (or find) a 2019 Ram 1500 Crew Cab, Laramie, 5.7 w/ 3.92, towing package w/ IBC, could get the 6-4" bed if needed for stability, air suspension if it's better or could add rear air bags & E load rated tires if it helped. The Laramie I test drove yesterday had a sticker on the door jamb of 1580# capacity. Lease payment is 1/2 my current payment. Fuel mileage is nearly 2x as good. Full time 4WD mode would be nice. Overall better ride, handling, etc.

Attached is a photo of our current setup. It's a long trailer. I've seen 3 other people on here towing around 10,000 lbs and they're pleased with the performance. I'm not worried about acceleration, I'm worried about cross-wind sway, being passed by Semi Trucks and causing sway.

Any thoughts? I plan to test tow with a 3.92 axle ratio Ram here in a few weeks once the snow is gone and I can get a feel for it. But in the meantime, am wondering.....View attachment 18145

Look at my sticker

 

[Willwork4truck]

I can assure any one reading this that if you are over the payload capacity (which is the limiting factor here, and very easy to do with a 750lb tongue weight) and are involved in an accident, your own insurance company will use this against you.

I would highly recommend having a weight ticket in your vehicle (Showing you are within manufacturers guidelines) as well as having a conversation with your insurance company about Your state’s requirements.

Just a heads up!

Just to point out something, my 9 years as an insurance adjuster taught me alot about legal contracts and indemnity, (mostly taught me that enough $ seems to heal all kinds of issues), and it especially taught me the value of having enough liability coverage for “lapses in judgement”.

We never denied a claim based on what our insured was towing or carrying, how fast they were driving, even if they were drunk. We had to pay according to how the contract was written. Our insured’s liability, even if they did something stupid, was our liability.

Most of the accidents actually were “something stupid” like driving too fast for conditions, turning left (taking the other drivers right of way) in front of another vehicle, following too close, etc etc. If we had a “stupidity exclusion” life would have been very easy for an adjuster.

Now after a large payout or other aggrevious loss, sometimes we would “QR” (quality referral) our driver back to the underwriting department. Then they would either non-renew the driver, place some kind of exclusion on them (say a 17 yr old in the family) or just continue coverage. This could happen for any number of reasons, but I never remember any QR’s based on someone being over their payload, but then again there never was a way to weigh them...

This isn’t to say that some agent or company somewhere isn’t playing “weight police” but I’d never heard of it.