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Readylift 2” + uca making contact with springs?

Alxmlr789

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Hi guys, just installing my readylift 2” now with UCAS and when i turn the spindle, i can barely get a turn in before it now hits the springs. Readylift said this was normal...and my truck should not be at full droop ever lol. Here’s a few photos, has anyone else confirmed this is normal??
 

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Rob5589

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Janky. Saying interference is normal and that you won't ever be at full droop anyway is ridiculous. Just another reason to avoid spacers and junk control arms.
 

KRField

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The few trucks I have leveled (last one was my dads 16 F-150) all have done this while on jack stands or the lift. No issues once back on the ground and buttoned up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Alxmlr789

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Janky. Saying interference is normal and that you won't ever be at full droop anyway is ridiculous. Just another reason to avoid spacers and junk control arms.

I agree. Not happy that they say this is normal. Contemplating just going to the mopar lift. Fortunately i purchased this kit on amazon and we all know their return policy is fantastic
 
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Rob5589

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I agree. Not happy that they say this is normal. Contemplating just going to the mopar lift. Fortunately i purchased this kit on amazon and we all know their return policy is fantastic
I have installed lifts on various vehicles over the years. If there is any interference, you adjust as necessary until there isn't. There should be no rubbing of components at full droop or full stuff.
It is obvious by looking at the pics that the control arm is the wrong geometry to handle the spacer at full droop. Unless your truck is a pavement princess then it will probably work. I would not trust that set up off road, however.
 

Alxmlr789

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I have installed lifts on various vehicles over the years. If there is any interference, you adjust as necessary until there isn't. There should be no rubbing of components at full droop or full stuff.
It is obvious by looking at the pics that the control arm is the wrong geometry to handle the spacer at full droop. Unless your truck is a pavement princess then it will probably work. I would not trust that set up off road, however.


I actually think stock control arms would work BETTER than these control arms in this case. While I’m neither a pavement princess or an off-road hog, I’d categorize myself someplace in the middle. Regardless, 530 dollars is a lot for a kit that isn’t 100%. I think it’s a JOKE they told me this was normal.
 

Billet1500 4x4

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Hi guys, just installing my readylift 2” now with UCAS and when i turn the spindle, i can barely get a turn in before it now hits the springs. Readylift said this was normal...and my truck should not be at full droop ever lol. Here’s a few photos, has anyone else confirmed this is normal??
The ram doesn't have any bump stops to control topping out and they rely on the strut to prevent the uca from hitting the spring when the suspension unloads this also keeps the cv shaft in the proper range to prevent the rzeppa joint from binding. When you add the spacer there is nothing preventing the contact or extreme cv angle because everything is now outside its design limit. The mopar lift prevents this by relying on spring preload to keep the coil over higher in its travel for the lift but when unloaded only extends the same amount as a factory strut. GM uses physical bump stops that prevent the uca from dropping to far and putting the front CV in a bind. Some guys would cut out the stops in order to get more lift out of the front. Top hat spacers are for looks only and will actually cause stuff to break out on the trail. Either go mopar lift or wait on bilstein or fox or king or icon or falcon to release a proper front shock to preload the spring to level the front or go with a full bracket lift if you plan on taking the truck off road on something beyond fire roads. The other option is to go with a 2 inch preload spacer on your stock coil overs versus the top hat spacer.
 

Alxmlr789

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The ram doesn't have any bump stops to control topping out and they rely on the strut to prevent the uca from hitting the spring when the suspension unloads this also keeps the cv shaft in the proper range to prevent the rzeppa joint from binding. When you add the spacer there is nothing preventing the contact or extreme cv angle because everything is now outside its design limit. The mopar lift prevents this by relying on spring preload to keep the coil over higher in its travel for the lift but when unloaded only extends the same amount as a factory strut. GM uses physical bump stops that prevent the uca from dropping to far and putting the front CV in a bind. Some guys would cut out the stops in order to get more lift out of the front. Top hat spacers are for looks only and will actually cause stuff to break out on the trail. Either go mopar lift or wait on bilstein or fox or king or icon or falcon to release a proper front shock to preload the spring to level the front or go with a full bracket lift if you plan on taking the truck off road on something beyond fire roads. The other option is to go with a 2 inch preload spacer on your stock coil overs versus the top hat spacer.

I appreciate the response, i had bilsteins on my Sierra and tacoma however they get a little bouncy in the 2.8 setting. I think i am going to go with mopar. I don't need the warranty but i'd like to keep it. Should have just done it from the get-go. Thanks!
 

Alxmlr789

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Stupid question but Are the arms on the correct side?

Yeah, tried to swap them and they were worse... When i called them they were not super helpful either, just said that is the way it is designed, I laughed. They mentioned the shocks need to be turned 180 degrees for them to work...like obviously lol they can only go in one way!
 

SilverSurfer15

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I saw that in the directions, and wasn’t sure what they meant. Is one side of the strut different than the other? As in it sticks out (coil or perch or something) further on one side versus the other?

Or do they simply mean you have to clock the assembly with the spacer to get the holes to line up? Because that seems ridiculous to mention that.

Since they said it’s normal I guess that’s the way it is then. I don’t think it’s going to give you any problems but I also understand why you want it off the truck lol.
 

Alxmlr789

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I saw that in the directions, and wasn’t sure what they meant. Is one side of the strut different than the other? As in it sticks out (coil or perch or something) further on one side versus the other?

Or do they simply mean you have to clock the assembly with the spacer to get the holes to line up? Because that seems ridiculous to mention that.

Since they said it’s normal I guess that’s the way it is then. I don’t think it’s going to give you any problems but I also understand why you want it off the truck lol.

Right? it's just about lining it up lol. It's the orientation of how the top spacer gets bolted on, you have to flip the shock to mount the three-bolt holes on the spacer or use a spring compressor and turn the top hat around. (i think you know that already though).

Either way, i'm not too impressed with the kit if this is normal. You're right, i doubt i will have issues with it, but i jsut can't accept that it's "oh totally normal".
 

Billet1500 4x4

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I appreciate the response, i had bilsteins on my Sierra and tacoma however they get a little bouncy in the 2.8 setting. I think i am going to go with mopar. I don't need the warranty but i'd like to keep it. Should have just done it from the get-go. Thanks!
Unfortunately when you put too much spring preload and ride that high in the travel you dont have much travel left to control rebound and things get bouncy.
 

SilverSurfer15

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Just a FYI, king told me they were estimating 1-3 months on releasing their coilovers. That they were basically done and in testing for last minute revision. This was about 3-4 weeks ago.
 

Alxmlr789

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Just a FYI, king told me they were estimating 1-3 months on releasing their coilovers. That they were basically done and in testing for last minute revision. This was about 3-4 weeks ago.

What does a king coilover setup run? I'd imagine 2k+ ?
 

SilverSurfer15

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Not that bad lol. Although this is just the front. So with rear shocks, probably another 500-600 if I had to guess for the rear reservoir shocks. Maybe 350-400 for non reservoir? Just ball parking it.

Edit: their site says 900 option for the rears, that seems insane to me. I don’t remember them being that expensive. Everyone seems to have that price. Guess I was wrong on the rears then.... insanity to pay 900 for piggy back shocks!


Do NOT buy direct from King. Ever. Lol. You can save hundreds by using someone else like filthy or the other 3 dozen sites that sell this stuff. And also call before you order and haggle with them lol.
 

Alxmlr789

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Not that bad lol. Although this is just the front. So with rear shocks, probably another 500-600 if I had to guess for the rear reservoir shocks. Maybe 350-400 for non reservoir? Just ball parking it.

Edit: their site says 900 option for the rears, that seems insane to me. I don’t remember them being that expensive.


Do NOT buy direct from King. Ever. Lol. You can save hundreds by using someone else like filthy or the other 3 dozen sites that sell this stuff. And also call before you order and haggle with them lol.

Oof, i'm good with the mopar kit lol.
 

SilverSurfer15

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Roughly depending on reservoir and compression adjustment options, another grand for the rear

I remember getting custom colored actual reservoir rear shocks (not just piggy back) for like 1250 or something like that. Guess that was many moons ago and prices have gone up.
 

Alxmlr789

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I remember getting custom colored actual reservoir rear shocks (not just piggy back) for like 1250 or something like that. Guess that was many moons ago and prices have gone up.

MCS doubles with a remote reservoir for my race car were $6,000 lol so that doesnt sound too bad. I don't think i could justify spending that kind of dough on this truck though, i already blew my whole budget just buying the truck, lol.
 

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