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Pros And Cons Of Waxing A New Ram
- Thread starter Kenny4
- Start date
jdmartin
Ram Guru
Pros: You get nice beady water, easier to wash off dead stink bugs, you get a good upper body workout.
Cons: You break your *** for several hours on Saturday morning.
If you're worried that you might wax the clear coat off, the answer is no. If you're worried that not waxing it will make the clearcoat fall off in short order, the answer is also no.
Cons: You break your *** for several hours on Saturday morning.
If you're worried that you might wax the clear coat off, the answer is no. If you're worried that not waxing it will make the clearcoat fall off in short order, the answer is also no.
Richard320
Spends too much time on here
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Waxing makes it easier to get the bugs off the next time it needs washing. That's why I did mine. I suppose I should do it again soon, since it's been a couple years.
Idahoktm
Spends too much time on here
Thin clear coat? Man, I thought the guys on the Tundra forums were nuts when they complained about thin paint. Who comes up with this 
?
?
Rototerrier
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I think there might be some confusion between waxing and polishing. Wax is a protectant. Polishing takes off a layer of clear.
Anyone with a buffer and some polish can ruin any painting job fast.
Random orbital = good
Anyone with a buffer and some polish can ruin any painting job fast.
Random orbital = good
Cajun_
Well-Known Member
Go get a pro level ceramic coating if you are worried about paint thickness. I'm getting one next week. Costs about $1000 to $1500 for something that will last more than a couple years. Don't wax a car that's been coated.
Otherwise you should always wax your vehicle after washing at least once a month.
Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk
Otherwise you should always wax your vehicle after washing at least once a month.
Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk
I had my black Ram ceramic coated before I took delivery. It's the first car I've had with it and would never have another vehicle without it.
The ease of cleaning it is amazing, the depth of shine incredible, and I love the way the water just beads off it - always.
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
The ease of cleaning it is amazing, the depth of shine incredible, and I love the way the water just beads off it - always.
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Ceramic coatings are incredible and well worth the initial cost. Mine claims to last 10 years as long as I don't use caustic solutions on it or go through a bunch of carwashes that aren't touchless.
Cajun_
Well-Known Member
I've got a foam Cannon on an electric pressure washer just for washing the truck. Spray the dirt off, foam it up, wash with a mit if anything a caked on if not go right to rinsing it off then hit it will a graphine quick detailer and a drying microfiber. Takes 5 minutes max.
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aussie_ram
Well-Known Member
Any pricing for a full ceramic coating on a Ram?
ktl5005
Well-Known Member
No more waxing here. Front end is wrapped and paint protection film and the rest of the truck is sealed with a ceramic coat. Use a booster every six months and no more waxing needed.
Cajun_
Well-Known Member
Diy cheap - $50 lasts about half a year to a year
Expensive DIY - $300 can actually mess up your paint if done wrong. Lasts about a year to 3 years
Bottom level pro install - $500 to 600, same stuff as the expensive diy kits but with warranty if they screw your paint up they will fix it.
Mid level pro install normally runs about $1000 to $1200 will last about 5 to 7 years and has an actual noticable change in the paint. Will look more glossy in addition to all the other benefits of coatings. What I recommend if you want one done right.
Top end pro coatings, runs $1500 to $2000. Multiple layers and thicker than the mid level but generally same stuff. Some are designed to just be thicker with a single coat plus topper. Other like ceramic pro are 4 layers plus a topper. They generally will last 7 years onward. Generally forever if you maintain then with more topper every so often.
Pro installs generally also include minor paint correction and coatings for other things like glass, wheels and interior.
I'm getting ppf on my bumper and lower doors, tint and a gold package from ceramic pro which is the top level pro coating they offer next week. It's going to cost me about $3000 give or take a bit, 1600 of which is for the gold level ceramic coating.
My advice is if you just want to replace a wax get the cheap diy stuff or the cheap ceramic pro install and reapply whenever the paint is no longer hydrophobic.
If you want better scratch resistants and a more glossy paint I recommend going with the mid or higher level pro install.
Avoid the higher end diy kits they can make the paint look damaged if done incorrectly and will need to be buffed off.
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aussie_ram
Well-Known Member
Awesome thank you
ktl5005
Well-Known Member
Car Pro CQuartz UK 3.0 easy for the DIY. Last 2 years, longer if you use their reload spray every 6 months
Cajun_
Well-Known Member
That's about the best cheap diy kits you can get. Everyone highly recommends it.
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ktl5005
Well-Known Member
Correct. The ease of application is seamless. It’s why I’ve always used it.
KWKSLVR
Ram Guru
I do the cheap DIY on our vehicles, it works pretty good provided you strip the wax and clay the vehicle first. I've been pleased.
bill-e
Ram Guru
It all depends on your eyesight.
I had mine paint corrected and Kenzo coated. I though my new truck looked good before the paint correction and coating and it looks amazing after. I would never spend money on a pro coating without paint correction and I don't even think I would DIY without it.
If you live where there are actual seasons you have to wash just as much as without and even clay it after the winter. You also should top it a couple or three times a year.
In my experience it does look great, is smooth and slick but it does take some effort and I've stopped using the foam cannon as it did little to nothing up here in the north. That and because it's black it's always hand washed even through the winter.
Right after the coating,
Post winter detail and light clay and topper.
I had mine paint corrected and Kenzo coated. I though my new truck looked good before the paint correction and coating and it looks amazing after. I would never spend money on a pro coating without paint correction and I don't even think I would DIY without it.
If you live where there are actual seasons you have to wash just as much as without and even clay it after the winter. You also should top it a couple or three times a year.
In my experience it does look great, is smooth and slick but it does take some effort and I've stopped using the foam cannon as it did little to nothing up here in the north. That and because it's black it's always hand washed even through the winter.
Right after the coating,
Post winter detail and light clay and topper.
Cajun_
Well-Known Member
Any good pro installer will do a paint correction before applying. One of the questions you should ask them is to run down the full process of coating your truck. Make sure they de iron the paint, clay bar it and do a paint correction before applying the coating.
You should also ask if there are any precautions you need to take in terms of if you need to keep it dry and for how long, in or out of the sun, how long until you can wash it, and so on.
You should also ask how often you need to maintain the coating with a topper and what drying aids they recommend to maintain it's hydrophobic properties. I use something called wet coat. It has graphine in it.
You should also ask if there are any precautions you need to take in terms of if you need to keep it dry and for how long, in or out of the sun, how long until you can wash it, and so on.
You should also ask how often you need to maintain the coating with a topper and what drying aids they recommend to maintain it's hydrophobic properties. I use something called wet coat. It has graphine in it.
