Price negotiated from MSRP

[6of36]

It will still give you an instant code once you submit but it also links it to your email so the dealer can look up the offer via your email the same way other direct incentives work. FYI, it also shares your details with the nearest dealer so expect to start getting marketing emails from them.

They contacted me once, and I told them I already bought elsewhere. No big deal.

 

[Roddog2220]

any word on november incentives, of course ram reps saying nothing good even though sales are tanking lol

 

[6of36]

any word on november incentives, of course ram reps saying nothing good even though sales are tanking lol

It's not November yet. October incentives were dropped on the 3rd or 4th. There is no early notifications. They get contacted saying these deals start now.

 

[Whete’swaldo]

Here is what I see.
15% below MSRP on 2023 Tradesman Quad Cab
10% below MSRP on 2023 Tradesman Crew Cab
15% below MSRP on 2023 Big Horn Quad Cab
15% below MSRP on 2023 Big Horn Crew Cab 2 x 4
15% below MSRP on 2023 Laramies
10% below MSRP on 2023 Rebels
10% below MSRP on 2023 Limited

 

[Roddog2220]

Here is what I see.
15% below MSRP on 2023 Tradesman Quad Cab
10% below MSRP on 2023 Tradesman Crew Cab
15% below MSRP on 2023 Big Horn Quad Cab
15% below MSRP on 2023 Big Horn Crew Cab 2 x 4
15% below MSRP on 2023 Laramies
10% below MSRP on 2023 Rebels
10% below MSRP on 2023 Limited

anything on finance incentives

 

[Whete’swaldo]

anything on finance incentives

Don't quote me but it looks like:
Big Horn and Laramie 2.9% for 72 months(2023 models)
Rebel and limited 3.9 % for 72 months(2023 models)

Big Horn and Laramie 3.9 % for 72 months(2024 models)
Rebel and limited 5.9 % for 72 months(2024 models)

 

[Roddog2220]

ive been told several things by diff dealers lol, im just going to go make offers and see what sticks like ive done every year since 19

 

[seabaz]

To you guys who have bought across state lines and negotiated over emails. After you get the price breakdown from the dealers you guys accept the first offer or do you haggle? What's the process like?

 

[daveomatic]

To you guys who have bought across state lines and negotiated over emails. After you get the price breakdown from the dealers you guys accept the first offer or do you haggle? What's the process like?

Depends on the dealership, if you are talking to Mark or Koons, you’re not going to get a better price and that’s kind of the point. It’s literally no haggle, no hassle, and no shady surprises.

Others, it’s going to depend. I would recommend getting a quote from MD or Koons or both to compare to any offer you get from a different dealer. Most are not going to get in the ballpark honestly.

 

[6of36]

To you guys who have bought across state lines and negotiated over emails. After you get the price breakdown from the dealers you guys accept the first offer or do you haggle? What's the process like?

I called, they said send the build off of the website. They called back with the price. When I decided to order, the salesman, Charles, set me up with Anthony, AnthonyRI on here, to do all the paperwork. Wire $1,000 down payment to order. Once the truck is built, you wire the balance, and you take delivery however you want. I chose to fly to Houston, where they sent a driver, to take me back to the dealership, to take delivery. All really easier than it sounds. They send an entire paperwork package by email, explaining every step, including if you have a trade in. I have a friend who is a Chrysler retiree, and gets me the friends discount. I still saved $5,000 more than using his discount locally, by ordering through Mark Dodge, with their standard pricing. Their price is even cheaper than the actual employee discount price. I would definitely do it again.

 

[Scottski1080]

For those that ordered through MD or Koons...Were any other discounts or dealer/financing incentives applied to your purchase? Priced out a Limited ($85,500 sticker) today with Koons and came back at $73500. Once you add in tax, tags and their doc fee I'm right back at where I was with another dealer.
Also, are you able to finance the vehicle once ordered? Don't really want to lay out the full nut if I can get a halfway decent rate.

 

[daveomatic]

For those that ordered through MD or Koons...Were any other discounts or dealer/financing incentives applied to your purchase? Priced out a Limited ($85,500 sticker) today with Koons and came back at $73500. Once you add in tax, tags and their doc fee I'm right back at where I was with another dealer.
Also, are you able to finance the vehicle once ordered? Don't really want to lay out the full nut if I can get a halfway decent rate.

You’re going to get the same manufacturer incentives everywhere. Right now it’s $4,500 off on 2024 Limiteds. There are a few other incentives out there like affiliate, email bonus cash, etc.. that you can learn about by reading through this thread. Financing is going to be similar to anywhere else, you can use their financing or a credit union or whatever you like.

I don’t really understand your point about tax, title, and license. You’re going to pay the same anywhere you go, because it’s based on the state you live in, not where you buy. MD’s doc processing fee is $425 which is on the lower side of the normal range. Add all that up and there is no way you’re ending up at the same out the door price as your local dealership on a 2024.

 

[AnthonyRI]

For those that ordered through MD or Koons...Were any other discounts or dealer/financing incentives applied to your purchase? Priced out a Limited ($85,500 sticker) today with Koons and came back at $73500. Once you add in tax, tags and their doc fee I'm right back at where I was with another dealer.
Also, are you able to finance the vehicle once ordered? Don't really want to lay out the full nut if I can get a halfway decent rate.

There are two basic methods you can use to compare the total deal, provided that you can get ALL relevant info from the dealers you are comparing.
This also assumes you are working with dealers that are 100% transparent and that there will be no intentional surprises

FIRST - OUT THE DOOR - SLIGHTLY FLAWED
This is most common in a lot of other forums where you need to compare the TOTAL cost out the door from each dealer on an IDENTICAL vehicle. A LOT of people post on facebook "I paid XX out the door" but if they're not in your state, they may have lower taxes, or they didn't mention a trade in equity, etc - so to really do it right you'll need to know:
1. Sale price of vehicle after all discounts from dealer, AND all rebates/incentives from manufacturer.
2. Dealer specific fees (doc fee, prep fees, etc), dealer add-ons or required participations (vin etching, locking lugnuts, invisible forcefields)
3. State required registration fees, sales tax, titling
4. Cost of transport of you TO the dealer and back, or, shipping the vehicle to you
5. Net value of your trade in (trade allowance minus amount owed on trade)
Add these all up, and you're OUT THE DOOR meaning "I gave them my trade vehicle, plus X cash, and got all the way home"
The problem with this method, is that on a factory order you have two variables that cannot be 100% guaranteed
a. The rebates can be used from the group that is available at the time of order (if lockable) OR the group available at the time of delivery. It can only get better, not worse
b. Your trade value, if you have one, is likely an estimate at time of order, which can fluctuate
c. For out of state dealers, the taxes will be most likely an estimate, if at all, at time of order, but dialed in at time of delivery

SECOND - DEALER SPECIFIC FACTORS - PREFERRED
Since you know that the rebates/incentives, sales tax, registration, and MSRP are congruent between all dealers, instead focus on just the items that are specific factors to that dealer
1. How much is the DEALER DISCOUNT from same MSRP, not counting any rebates/incentives from RAM
2. Dealer specific fees (doc fee) or add-ons
3. Cost of getting the vehicle to you (fly & drive, or transport)
Everything else should be the same at competing dealers, you've in this case separated the financial components that make one better than the other.
You can figure out if it is better to trade your vehicle in (tax savings in some states), sell it outright on your own, or to an online used retailer like carvana/carmax.

TIME & EFFORT
Don't forget to value your own time in this equation. Consider the effort required for certain parts such as
1. Will you have to do all of your own tax/registration back home, how much do you love your DMV
2. Will you have to coordinate your own shipping of the vehicle, or your airport pickup if fly/drive
3. Will you have to deal with facebook marketplace or craigslist tirekickers to sell your trade

FINANCING
All financing is done at the time of delivery. While you may be able estimate certain promotional rates at time of order, the reality is that these are usually IN LIEU of the cash rebates.
Still, you have the option at time of delivery to decide which would you rather have. For example, you can have the 6.9% 72mo APR that is available right now OR the $4500 in cash rebates. You can't determine, and don't have to, which is a better deal until you see what your regular rate will be from various banks at time of delivery. If you can get 8% from another bank, you ought to take that and retain your $4500 cash. You're not running a full credit report until the vehicle arrives anyway. Think of it this way - the subvented rate getting you down to a 3.9% - that money is coming from the SAME bucket as the cash rebates on the manufacturer side, it's all a method to increase sales but also give buyers an option for what works best for them.

 

[Scottski1080]

There are two basic methods you can use to compare the total deal, provided that you can get ALL relevant info from the dealers you are comparing.
This also assumes you are working with dealers that are 100% transparent and that there will be no intentional surprises

FIRST - OUT THE DOOR - SLIGHTLY FLAWED
This is most common in a lot of other forums where you need to compare the TOTAL cost out the door from each dealer on an IDENTICAL vehicle. A LOT of people post on facebook "I paid XX out the door" but if they're not in your state, they may have lower taxes, or they didn't mention a trade in equity, etc - so to really do it right you'll need to know:
1. Sale price of vehicle after all discounts from dealer, AND all rebates/incentives from manufacturer.
2. Dealer specific fees (doc fee, prep fees, etc), dealer add-ons or required participations (vin etching, locking lugnuts, invisible forcefields)
3. State required registration fees, sales tax, titling
4. Cost of transport of you TO the dealer and back, or, shipping the vehicle to you
5. Net value of your trade in (trade allowance minus amount owed on trade)
Add these all up, and you're OUT THE DOOR meaning "I gave them my trade vehicle, plus X cash, and got all the way home"
The problem with this method, is that on a factory order you have two variables that cannot be 100% guaranteed
a. The rebates can be used from the group that is available at the time of order (if lockable) OR the group available at the time of delivery. It can only get better, not worse
b. Your trade value, if you have one, is likely an estimate at time of order, which can fluctuate
c. For out of state dealers, the taxes will be most likely an estimate, if at all, at time of order, but dialed in at time of delivery

SECOND - DEALER SPECIFIC FACTORS - PREFERRED
Since you know that the rebates/incentives, sales tax, registration, and MSRP are congruent between all dealers, instead focus on just the items that are specific factors to that dealer
1. How much is the DEALER DISCOUNT from same MSRP, not counting any rebates/incentives from RAM
2. Dealer specific fees (doc fee) or add-ons
3. Cost of getting the vehicle to you (fly & drive, or transport)
Everything else should be the same at competing dealers, you've in this case separated the financial components that make one better than the other.
You can figure out if it is better to trade your vehicle in (tax savings in some states), sell it outright on your own, or to an online used retailer like carvana/carmax.

TIME & EFFORT
Don't forget to value your own time in this equation. Consider the effort required for certain parts such as
1. Will you have to do all of your own tax/registration back home, how much do you love your DMV
2. Will you have to coordinate your own shipping of the vehicle, or your airport pickup if fly/drive
3. Will you have to deal with facebook marketplace or craigslist tirekickers to sell your trade

FINANCING
All financing is done at the time of delivery. While you may be able estimate certain promotional rates at time of order, the reality is that these are usually IN LIEU of the cash rebates.
Still, you have the option at time of delivery to decide which would you rather have. For example, you can have the 6.9% 72mo APR that is available right now OR the $4500 in cash rebates. You can't determine, and don't have to, which is a better deal until you see what your regular rate will be from various banks at time of delivery. If you can get 8% from another bank, you ought to take that and retain your $4500 cash. You're not running a full credit report until the vehicle arrives anyway. Think of it this way - the subvented rate getting you down to a 3.9% - that money is coming from the SAME bucket as the cash rebates on the manufacturer side, it's all a method to increase sales but also give buyers an option for what works best for them.

This was really helpful! Thank you for all of the great insights and expert info.

 

[Darksteel165]

There are two basic methods you can use to compare the total deal, provided that you can get ALL relevant info from the dealers you are comparing.
This also assumes you are working with dealers that are 100% transparent and that there will be no intentional surprises

FIRST - OUT THE DOOR - SLIGHTLY FLAWED
This is most common in a lot of other forums where you need to compare the TOTAL cost out the door from each dealer on an IDENTICAL vehicle. A LOT of people post on facebook "I paid XX out the door" but if they're not in your state, they may have lower taxes, or they didn't mention a trade in equity, etc - so to really do it right you'll need to know:
1. Sale price of vehicle after all discounts from dealer, AND all rebates/incentives from manufacturer.
2. Dealer specific fees (doc fee, prep fees, etc), dealer add-ons or required participations (vin etching, locking lugnuts, invisible forcefields)
3. State required registration fees, sales tax, titling
4. Cost of transport of you TO the dealer and back, or, shipping the vehicle to you
5. Net value of your trade in (trade allowance minus amount owed on trade)
Add these all up, and you're OUT THE DOOR meaning "I gave them my trade vehicle, plus X cash, and got all the way home"
The problem with this method, is that on a factory order you have two variables that cannot be 100% guaranteed
a. The rebates can be used from the group that is available at the time of order (if lockable) OR the group available at the time of delivery. It can only get better, not worse
b. Your trade value, if you have one, is likely an estimate at time of order, which can fluctuate
c. For out of state dealers, the taxes will be most likely an estimate, if at all, at time of order, but dialed in at time of delivery

SECOND - DEALER SPECIFIC FACTORS - PREFERRED
Since you know that the rebates/incentives, sales tax, registration, and MSRP are congruent between all dealers, instead focus on just the items that are specific factors to that dealer
1. How much is the DEALER DISCOUNT from same MSRP, not counting any rebates/incentives from RAM
2. Dealer specific fees (doc fee) or add-ons
3. Cost of getting the vehicle to you (fly & drive, or transport)
Everything else should be the same at competing dealers, you've in this case separated the financial components that make one better than the other.
You can figure out if it is better to trade your vehicle in (tax savings in some states), sell it outright on your own, or to an online used retailer like carvana/carmax.

TIME & EFFORT
Don't forget to value your own time in this equation. Consider the effort required for certain parts such as
1. Will you have to do all of your own tax/registration back home, how much do you love your DMV
2. Will you have to coordinate your own shipping of the vehicle, or your airport pickup if fly/drive
3. Will you have to deal with facebook marketplace or craigslist tirekickers to sell your trade

FINANCING
All financing is done at the time of delivery. While you may be able estimate certain promotional rates at time of order, the reality is that these are usually IN LIEU of the cash rebates.
Still, you have the option at time of delivery to decide which would you rather have. For example, you can have the 6.9% 72mo APR that is available right now OR the $4500 in cash rebates. You can't determine, and don't have to, which is a better deal until you see what your regular rate will be from various banks at time of delivery. If you can get 8% from another bank, you ought to take that and retain your $4500 cash. You're not running a full credit report until the vehicle arrives anyway. Think of it this way - the subvented rate getting you down to a 3.9% - that money is coming from the SAME bucket as the cash rebates on the manufacturer side, it's all a method to increase sales but also give buyers an option for what works best for them.

Posts like this is why I really grew to love MD. A dealership that actually cares and doesn't need to BS people to get sales. People need cars\truck and will buy them no matter what the salesperson does or says, buyers just want a little help and direction sometimes if asked.

 

[daveomatic]

Is anybody still seeing the $1,000 TDM bonus cash offer pop up on the website? I have been seeing it regularly after clearing cookies, etc until the last couple of weeks. Wondering if RAM has stopped it for the time being since they raised the incentives or if I just need to work a little harder to find the right combination of zip code / configuration.

 

[JJRamTX]

For those that ordered through MD or Koons...Were any other discounts or dealer/financing incentives applied to your purchase? Priced out a Limited ($85,500 sticker) today with Koons and came back at $73500. Once you add in tax, tags and their doc fee I'm right back at where I was with another dealer.
Also, are you able to finance the vehicle once ordered? Don't really want to lay out the full nut if I can get a halfway decent rate.

My limited which was $86,200 sticker was $69,222 after all of the discounts through MD. You can’t beat that and especially for a $88 one way plane ticket and they picked me up. (They actually brought the truck to the airport to get me, I put in my backpack, did a walk around inspection, and drove home!)

 

[AnthonyRI]

Is anybody still seeing the $1,000 TDM bonus cash offer pop up on the website? I have been seeing it regularly after clearing cookies, etc until the last couple of weeks. Wondering if RAM has stopped it for the time being since they raised the incentives or if I just need to work a little harder to find the right combination of zip code / configuration.

I just had a customer grab one today. He didn't even realize it thatthe screenshot he sent me for the build specs had a "COLLAPS THIS OFFER?" widget on it.
I says, HEY click that button brother!!

But then I had another customer who couldn't get it to go. Seems that many are getting the 'sign up for updates" that may or may not send a coupon at a later date, but very few are getting the IMMEDIATE code. Can't figure out the combo and I'm afraid to ask.

 

[Darksteel165]

Is anybody still seeing the $1,000 TDM bonus cash offer pop up on the website? I have been seeing it regularly after clearing cookies, etc until the last couple of weeks. Wondering if RAM has stopped it for the time being since they raised the incentives or if I just need to work a little harder to find the right combination of zip code / configuration.

I'm told you need to do the email signup to get the 1k cash now.
Can just make a new email for it.

 

[Kiwiaudio]

Just picked mine up from MD Tuesday. They are great to work with. Salesman, finance man, and sales manager all want to shake your hand, and tell you to let them know if there is anything they can do. Sticker $83,130, paid $68,488 and they picked me up fro Houston airport. Got back in Mi. last night. 1394 miles on it in 3 days.

Just looking at your signature content, you had an almost 4 month turnaround - is that the norm anymore ?