gHiDoRa
Ram Guru
Really would like to see how you mount those on bumper in daylight. Thanks.
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OEM LED reverse lights are absolutely terrible...what have you guys done to address this?
- Thread starter mac1983620
- Start date
Really would like to see how you mount those on bumper in daylight. Thanks.
cra1g
Well-Known Member
Here's what I did. Baja Designs S2 Sport Wide Cornering lights on brackets I made attached to the lower bumper bolts:
JJRamTX
Ram Guru
I followed another idea on here that is completly reversable back to stock in 5 minutes, very cost effective, adjustable, and easy to install.
ramButz
Ram Guru
ramButz
Ram Guru
Patsy1099
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I did something very similar to this but at almost half the price. I didn’t hook it up to the reverse wires though because these things are BRIGHT and are more for very dark/off-road conditions. So I’d rather they only come on when I’m in a very blacked out area and not just backing out of a parking spot in town etc when my standard camera lighting gets the job done. So I put these in a switch in the cabin.
Hitch Bracket $9
Amazon.com: ELITEWILL 2'' Tow Light Bracket Steel Tow Hitch Mounting Bracket Dual LED Backup Reverse: Automotive
Buy ELITEWILL 2'' Tow Light Bracket Steel Tow Hitch Mounting Bracket Dual LED Backup Reverse: Hitch Mounts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Nilight 7” Lights (qty 2) $45
Jako
Spends too much time on here
I started with the VLEDs and as others have experienced I had "tailgate rub". I liked what cra1g did in post #22 and he gave me some advice. Attached are a few photos. As others I used the "Curt #56584", "Baja 54-7805, S2 Sport, Pair, Wide Cornering" and a "Hopkins #47895, Connector Set". Note that you do not need a set and only a 5 flat trailer side.
The Baja comes with a wire harness, another "Y" harness and a molex style connection set. There are a few options to wiring the Baja lights to the 5 pin flat connection.
1. Wire up both wire harnesses and "bundle" and store
2. Cut the female end of the Y harness and attach to the 5 pin flat
3. Purchase an additional Y connector from Baja for $13.95 and make the appropriate connection
4. Customize using the molex set supplied by Baja (my choice).
The bracket I made to attach the lights to the bumper stud was from scrap iron laying around and is explained in the picture. I opted to stay metric as per the Ram. Note that the bumper stud is 10mm metric and requires a 10 mm or 13/32" drill bit. 5 1/4" between holes places the lights center of the plastic below the bumper (post #22). My preference after using wood templates. Your personal preference can be had by extending or shortening the distance between the holes.
If you decide to make your own harness it will require a "molex style" crimper. This is explained at about the 9 min mark in the attached link and is the "pliers" marked A B C D E in the photo. I opted for wire nuts with the dielectric silicone compound as I am debating installing bed lights with a relay that would turn on both the bed lights and the Baja reverse lights.
The leads are 20" and 40" with 16 gauge wire that I had. The leads can be adjusted depending on your routing (e.g. extend the left side lead to pair with the right lead). I believe that the Baja wires are 18 gauge but my eyes and magnifying glass fail me.
The Baja lights are manufactured to be mounted with the bracket on the bottom. In this install the brackets need to be installed on the rear. I did not like the stress put on the wire coming out of the lights so I opted to fabricate a set with a deeper back. The photo shows the difference. The bolt used is referred to as a "tap bolt" (10 mm X 75 MM). This style bolt is threaded for the complete length. This bolt allows adjustments as to the lights alignment to the bumper (in/out) simply by adjusting the associated nuts. My personal preference is to the inside of the vehicle past the bottom lip of the bumper by an 1/8th". But it can be adjusted further out. This will further be explained later with the install, with accompanying photos.
The final photo shows the lights and the harness attached.
Install to follow.
Special thanks to brawler1588 who started (I believe) the Baja install on the forum.
5thgenrams.com
The Baja comes with a wire harness, another "Y" harness and a molex style connection set. There are a few options to wiring the Baja lights to the 5 pin flat connection.
1. Wire up both wire harnesses and "bundle" and store
2. Cut the female end of the Y harness and attach to the 5 pin flat
3. Purchase an additional Y connector from Baja for $13.95 and make the appropriate connection
4. Customize using the molex set supplied by Baja (my choice).
The bracket I made to attach the lights to the bumper stud was from scrap iron laying around and is explained in the picture. I opted to stay metric as per the Ram. Note that the bumper stud is 10mm metric and requires a 10 mm or 13/32" drill bit. 5 1/4" between holes places the lights center of the plastic below the bumper (post #22). My preference after using wood templates. Your personal preference can be had by extending or shortening the distance between the holes.
If you decide to make your own harness it will require a "molex style" crimper. This is explained at about the 9 min mark in the attached link and is the "pliers" marked A B C D E in the photo. I opted for wire nuts with the dielectric silicone compound as I am debating installing bed lights with a relay that would turn on both the bed lights and the Baja reverse lights.
The leads are 20" and 40" with 16 gauge wire that I had. The leads can be adjusted depending on your routing (e.g. extend the left side lead to pair with the right lead). I believe that the Baja wires are 18 gauge but my eyes and magnifying glass fail me.
The Baja lights are manufactured to be mounted with the bracket on the bottom. In this install the brackets need to be installed on the rear. I did not like the stress put on the wire coming out of the lights so I opted to fabricate a set with a deeper back. The photo shows the difference. The bolt used is referred to as a "tap bolt" (10 mm X 75 MM). This style bolt is threaded for the complete length. This bolt allows adjustments as to the lights alignment to the bumper (in/out) simply by adjusting the associated nuts. My personal preference is to the inside of the vehicle past the bottom lip of the bumper by an 1/8th". But it can be adjusted further out. This will further be explained later with the install, with accompanying photos.
The final photo shows the lights and the harness attached.
Install to follow.
Special thanks to brawler1588 who started (I believe) the Baja install on the forum.
Did Someone Say Baja
I just got my set of baja s2 sports in for my backup light idea. So I went to home depot and got flat bar with holes in 14ga steel and cut to 4 holes. Than I took off the bottom tow hitch nut on both sides and just enlarged the top mounting hole slightly. Lined it up and tightened it down than I...
5thgenrams.com
Last edited:
Jako
Spends too much time on here
The INSTALL:
Lower the spare onto a dolly if available. It was good practice and examination showed rust (10/18 build) not happy
. Cleaned it up and gave it a coat of polish till warmer weather. Paint or rust preventer?
The" Curt #56584" mounted flat and neat to the horizontal plastic with a little finagling (zip ties)
and 2 "Utilitech #0292685, 1"x1" mounting pads" (each end).
The 3rd photo is with the "5 flat trailer side" attached. Note the mounting pad and 2 zip ties on the curt (lower right) . The zip ties are required to keep the curt high enough from resting on the spare.
4th, 5th and 6th show the wire routing and zip ties going to the left side. There is a zip tie attached to the spare tire "horn". Note that the white zip ties were included for the photos. OCD takes over and they will be replaced (black) and "clipped".
7th (left side) and 8th (right side) are of the Baja plugs mounted via mounting pads. The mounting pads were not happy with 20 degree weather and promptly "dismounted" cleanly
. Had to add a little heat (propane torch) to the frame to insure adhesion. In the lower right and lower left are the lights. They were adjusted about 1/8" behind and 1/8" below the black plastic portion of the bumper. I used a 75 mm bolt which can be shorter but if the preference is flush to the "face" of the bumper not that much. I may also attach a "shield" to the rear of the lights on the extended bolt.
9th photo of flat stock bracket right side. I torqued the truck side nuts to 45 ft/lbs. This was based on "my" torque wrench and I used the tightening "click / no click movement". I started at 20 ft/lbs. and increased the torque setting until I did not get a click and the nut appeared to move a hair. It seemed to be 40-45 on all 4 bumper nuts.
10th Finish
- Best I could do with the weather. Snow flakes "got me" for 20 minutes - no complaints.
Hope this helps those looking to install additional reverse lights.
Obviously:
There are less expensive alternatives to the lights and wiring.
There are other wiring options (posi taps and such).
Don't need Baja - but they are NICE.
On the "Someday List" if I have enough "Tomorrows": Bed lights installed with a DPDT switch so the Baja lights come on with the bed lights. I figure if I need bed lights I could probably use the additional lighting at the back of the truck.
Lower the spare onto a dolly if available. It was good practice and examination showed rust (10/18 build) not happy
. Cleaned it up and gave it a coat of polish till warmer weather. Paint or rust preventer?The" Curt #56584" mounted flat and neat to the horizontal plastic with a little finagling (zip ties)
and 2 "Utilitech #0292685, 1"x1" mounting pads" (each end).The 3rd photo is with the "5 flat trailer side" attached. Note the mounting pad and 2 zip ties on the curt (lower right) . The zip ties are required to keep the curt high enough from resting on the spare.
4th, 5th and 6th show the wire routing and zip ties going to the left side. There is a zip tie attached to the spare tire "horn". Note that the white zip ties were included for the photos. OCD takes over and they will be replaced (black) and "clipped".
7th (left side) and 8th (right side) are of the Baja plugs mounted via mounting pads. The mounting pads were not happy with 20 degree weather and promptly "dismounted" cleanly
. Had to add a little heat (propane torch) to the frame to insure adhesion. In the lower right and lower left are the lights. They were adjusted about 1/8" behind and 1/8" below the black plastic portion of the bumper. I used a 75 mm bolt which can be shorter but if the preference is flush to the "face" of the bumper not that much. I may also attach a "shield" to the rear of the lights on the extended bolt.9th photo of flat stock bracket right side. I torqued the truck side nuts to 45 ft/lbs. This was based on "my" torque wrench and I used the tightening "click / no click movement". I started at 20 ft/lbs. and increased the torque setting until I did not get a click and the nut appeared to move a hair. It seemed to be 40-45 on all 4 bumper nuts.
10th Finish
- Best I could do with the weather. Snow flakes "got me" for 20 minutes - no complaints.Hope this helps those looking to install additional reverse lights.
Obviously:
There are less expensive alternatives to the lights and wiring.
There are other wiring options (posi taps and such).
Don't need Baja - but they are NICE.
On the "Someday List" if I have enough "Tomorrows": Bed lights installed with a DPDT switch so the Baja lights come on with the bed lights. I figure if I need bed lights I could probably use the additional lighting at the back of the truck.
Last edited:
brawler1588
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Hey Jako thanks for the shout out I think I was one of the first to do baja but many upgraded since lighting stinks. What I also did though was get the anzo wireless switch and use posi taps into the positive and ran up front to the wireless module and now i can turn them on and off from the switch as well when not in reverse.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Jako
Spends too much time on here
Now you tell me.
. Good info to pass on. I saw the Anzo after I had all the hardware to do this job. The Anzo got so so reviews on amazon I believe and there was another one that seemed to get better reviews. For whatever the reviews are worth. Posi taps seem to be pretty good, but I have never used them. I have to be careful with forums as they tend to influence me into purchases and "projects". This took on a little "life of it's own" but well worth the labor of love (sometimes the journey is more important than the destination). I am probably going to add some type of plate shield to the back of the lights.
You and cra1g did a nice job and enthused me to do an install with the Baja lights and would like to extend a handshake and thank you for the info. Hopefully the pics and write up will encourage some one else to tackle the reverse lights.
brawler1588
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Yes the write up was very well done and will help people. I took a chance on the anzo and so far for the $25 it has been amazing I got over 400ft and the switch still activated. I even have it hooked up to my baja squadron pro hood lights maybe that's your next project sorry you may have to continue doing some mods.Now you tell me.
I have to be careful with forums as they tend to influence me into purchases and "projects". This took on a little "life of it's own" but well worth the labor of love (sometimes the journey is more important than the destination). I am probably going to add some type of plate shield to the back of the lights.
You and cra1g did a nice job and enthused me to do an install with the Baja lights and would like to extend a handshake and thank you for the info. Hopefully the pics and write up will encourage some one else to tackle the reverse lights.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Jako
Spends too much time on here
The Anzo sounds good. I might be tempted to "weaponize" the Bajas with tailgaters. I had a good chuckle about the front lights. Hell, I haven't even put the mud flaps on my 2001 (I think I might have some side moldings also). DIY can be a problem! Hope I can live to a 150 and get it all done.Yes the write up was very well done and will help people. I took a chance on the anzo and so far for the $25 it has been amazing I got over 400ft and the switch still activated. I even have it hooked up to my baja squadron pro hood lights maybe that's your next project sorry you may have to continue doing some mods.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
cra1g
Well-Known Member
The INSTALL:
Lower the spare onto a dolly if available. It was good practice and examination showed rust (10/18 build) not happy
The" Curt #56584" mounted flat and neat to the horizontal plastic with a little finagling (zip ties)
The 3rd photo is with the "5 flat trailer side" attached. Note the mounting pad and 2 zip ties on the curt (lower right) . The zip ties are required to keep the curt high enough from resting on the spare.
4th, 5th and 6th show the wire routing and zip ties going to the left side. There is a zip tie attached to the spare tire "horn". Note that the white zip ties were included for the photos. OCD takes over and they will be replaced (black) and "clipped".
7th (left side) and 8th (right side) are of the Baja plugs mounted via mounting pads. The mounting pads were not happy with 20 degree weather and promptly "dismounted" cleanly
9th photo of flat stock bracket right side. I torqued the truck side nuts to 45 ft/lbs. This was based on "my" torque wrench and I used the tightening "click / no click movement". I started at 20 ft/lbs. and increased the torque setting until I did not get a click and the nut appeared to move a hair. It seemed to be 40-45 on all 4 bumper nuts.
10th Finish
Hope this helps those looking to install additional reverse lights.
Obviously:
There are less expensive alternatives to the lights and wiring.
There are other wiring options (posi taps and such).
Don't need Baja - but they are NICE.
On the "Someday List" if I have enough "Tomorrows": Bed lights installed with a DPDT switch so the Baja lights come on with the bed lights. I figure if I need bed lights I could probably use the additional lighting at the back of the truck.
View attachment 44441 View attachment 44442 View attachment 44443 View attachment 44446View attachment 44449View attachment 44445 View attachment 44447 View attachment 44451 View attachment 44452 View attachment 44454
That's some really nice work!
WasatchBack
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Installed the Rigid diffused for reverse lighting a year ago but they never worked. Never had time to look into checking my wiring till today. Did the curt harness, same as everyone else, tried switching the blue/white and white/black but still no luck. Am I dumb here or did I get some dead Rigids?
Attachments
ramButz
Ram Guru
securityguy
Legendary member
Before I finished the wiring...
securityguy
Legendary member
You're dumb based on your current pic. The blue is your HOT or RED. The white is ground or your BLACK. You have them backwards! Get a DVM and check for voltage at your white and blue for around 13.5V or so to ensure you have power at those wires. You will have to have a friend in the truck to put it in REVERSE while testing voltage. Don't know if your RIGID are reverse polarity protected or not. You may have blown the lights by hooking them up backwards. Hard to say.
Last edited:
NoCrow
Active Member
That's what I did to. Same spot but mine ingot from harbor freight for $30 work greatI added some extra LED light bars. Helps a lot.
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securityguy
Legendary member
Looks nice, but NEVER EVER use 120V home electrical wire nuts on automotive wiring. They are not designed for this application. Just trying to inform others that look at what folks do related to wiring to know what's right and what's wrong. All electrical connections in a car/truck should be soldered and heat shrink wrapped to ensure a connection that will stand the test of time and be fully protected from the weather.The INSTALL:
Lower the spare onto a dolly if available. It was good practice and examination showed rust (10/18 build) not happy
The" Curt #56584" mounted flat and neat to the horizontal plastic with a little finagling (zip ties)
The 3rd photo is with the "5 flat trailer side" attached. Note the mounting pad and 2 zip ties on the curt (lower right) . The zip ties are required to keep the curt high enough from resting on the spare.
4th, 5th and 6th show the wire routing and zip ties going to the left side. There is a zip tie attached to the spare tire "horn". Note that the white zip ties were included for the photos. OCD takes over and they will be replaced (black) and "clipped".
7th (left side) and 8th (right side) are of the Baja plugs mounted via mounting pads. The mounting pads were not happy with 20 degree weather and promptly "dismounted" cleanly
9th photo of flat stock bracket right side. I torqued the truck side nuts to 45 ft/lbs. This was based on "my" torque wrench and I used the tightening "click / no click movement". I started at 20 ft/lbs. and increased the torque setting until I did not get a click and the nut appeared to move a hair. It seemed to be 40-45 on all 4 bumper nuts.
10th Finish
Hope this helps those looking to install additional reverse lights.
Obviously:
There are less expensive alternatives to the lights and wiring.
There are other wiring options (posi taps and such).
Don't need Baja - but they are NICE.
On the "Someday List" if I have enough "Tomorrows": Bed lights installed with a DPDT switch so the Baja lights come on with the bed lights. I figure if I need bed lights I could probably use the additional lighting at the back of the truck.
View attachment 44441 View attachment 44442 View attachment 44443 View attachment 44446View attachment 44449View attachment 44445 View attachment 44447 View attachment 44451 View attachment 44452 View attachment 44454
Jako
Spends too much time on here
Thanks
