New to Paint Correction - Questions

[river rat]

Whatever you do, always start with the least aggressive pad/product compound.

 

[ElkoNV]

Ok, I'll bite. This is your first time so you probably don't realize you are asking what brand of oil is best for my truck. At the risk of being flamed, I will throw some out.

3D One I have no personal experience with but some quick YouTube videos look good.

Mequires Ultimate Compound tried and true can't go wrong great for light swirl marks.

Chemical Guys VSS this is going to be a little more aggressive will pull out deeper swirls this breaks down as you use it so it's one step this might be a really good choice. Chemical Guys is always a little more expensive, they spend a lot on advertising and producing how-to videos. Even if you do not use their products check out some of their videos.

Adams Compound followed by Adams Polish, the compound will be aggressive, if the polish gets the swirls out don't use the compound. If you try the polish first and it does not get out all of the swirls you will need to do compound followed by polish. This is a true 2 step process.

We cannot see your paint, no one wants to recommend anything more aggressive than necessary, and some people are going to be very opinionated about polish.

I would recommend Meguires Ultimate first and if that did not do it VSS, they are both one step so it's easy.

There are lots of great brands, just work from least aggressive first.

 

[GTLimited]

Agree. Common theme is to start from least aggressive.

Personally, I've been using some form of Menzerna products so I stick with what I know. I've been happy with it.

 

[Eltaco]

You guys are great. I have orange, yellow, and white griots pads inbound and will see what I learn.

I need to find a vacant weekend to really get this kicked off. Looking forward to it!

 

[ElkoNV]

You guys are great. I have orange, yellow, and white griots pads inbound and will see what I learn.

I need to find a vacant weekend to really get this kicked off. Looking forward to it!

Was driving out to a mine site this morning thinking about your project and thought I would add something I don't think anyone addressed.
I am guessing you end up with 3d or Meguires and maybe VSS on stand-by.
Start with the least abrasive on the softness pad. Do an area maybe 16" x 16" overlapping paths like mowing a lawn, in one direction and then the other, then repeat once. Check your results. If you still have marks same least abrasive compound next firmer pad, repeat on a new area. This way you can see the results from scratch (no pun intended). If you still see swirls next firmer pad, same gentle product, new area. This will probably get you. If not go to something more aggressive like VSS, softest pad, and repeat. The pad and product work together, it a synergy thing matching the pad to the compound. If you start with the least abrasive product, you can always add a more abrasive product to that first pad you tried, you just cannot go the other way. Take before and after closeup photos of the swirl marks, and lack thereof. When you are done you will be able to recommend a pad and product combination to the next guy that wants to tackle this.

If you end up with VSS or another brand one-step product that breaks down as you use it keep the following in mind.
You want to figure out an area and a quantity of a product on the pad that will complete the process in one step. These compounds break down and become less abrasive as you use them. So you don't want to be almost done with an area add more product and not work it out thoroughly. If you are almost done and add more product it won't be as polished because it is starting over as more abrasive on the pad again. Hope that makes sense, it's a little hard to explain,

I am rooting for you, send pics!

 

[Eltaco]

Was driving out to a mine site this morning thinking about your project and thought I would add something I don't think anyone addressed.
I am guessing you end up with 3d or Meguires and maybe VSS on stand-by.
Start with the least abrasive on the softness pad. Do an area maybe 16" x 16" overlapping paths like mowing a lawn, in one direction and then the other, then repeat once. Check your results. If you still have marks same least abrasive compound next firmer pad, repeat on a new area. This way you can see the results from scratch (no pun intended). If you still see swirls next firmer pad, same gentle product, new area. This will probably get you. If not go to something more aggressive like VSS, softest pad, and repeat. The pad and product work together, it a synergy thing matching the pad to the compound. If you start with the least abrasive product, you can always add a more abrasive product to that first pad you tried, you just cannot go the other way. Take before and after closeup photos of the swirl marks, and lack thereof. When you are done you will be able to recommend a pad and product combination to the next guy that wants to tackle this.

If you end up with VSS or another brand one-step product that breaks down as you use it keep the following in mind.
You want to figure out an area and a quantity of a product on the pad that will complete the process in one step. These compounds break down and become less abrasive as you use them. So you don't want to be almost done with an area add more product and not work it out thoroughly. If you are almost done and add more product it won't be as polished because it is starting over as more abrasive on the pad again. Hope that makes sense, it's a little hard to explain,

I am rooting for you, send pics!

That all makes sense to me!

My hope is when I’m done I can’t see 2’x2’ checkerboard across the truck where I’m moving between sections! I have a slight fear of that, but I’m sure it’ll all make sense when I get it going.

Have all the right tools, and working towards gaining enough education... then the rubber hits the road and I’ll try put it all to action. Looking forward to that last phase of the process!

 

[ElkoNV]

You won't have a checkerboard just overlap a little into the last section it will be good.

 

[jkm312]

Lots of sound good advice and tips here from people who obviously know what they are talking about. Some things I didn't see mentioned. Surface temp and humidity play into the final outcome to some extent, depending on the products you are using. Lift the hood to dissipate the engine heat and cool the hood until you are ready to work on it. Another, lighting, you have to be able to see the details of what you are doing. Inspect your efforts from several different angles as you go, it will drive you nuts for a bit until you get the feel and sense of what you are doing. I'm a firm believer in taping off the trim before you start with blue painter's tape. A roomy enough, comfortable garage to work in, heated or cooled as needed.
I've owned black cars and motorcycles in my younger days worked hard to keep them looking good - exactly why my last two trucks have been billet silver!

Is there a way you could practice on another car before you take on your truck? Perhaps a family member who would be thrilled to get their car cleaned up and not be as critical of the results as those of us here in this thread? We are all our own worst critic most of the time.

Above all else, take your time in order, a step at a time. I heat or cool my garage, load up the tunes in my headphones, crank em up, zone out, and just do it. I've learned to enjoy the process over the years. I use Meguiars products, it's a trusted brand for me.

 

[ElkoNV]

My first car was a 75 black camaro...no power tools...hand buffed out all the swirl marks. I was 16 and indestructible, so it sounds worse than it was. People saw my car and wanted it done, that started my first detail business. I was doing 2 small cars or 1 big one every weekend. Luckily I did not make a career out of it so I still enjoy doing my own vehicles. My last black vehicle (and I also mean very last never again) was a Ford Excursion, thank goodness for power tools those are huge.
I ordered a billet silver ram as well, I think they are a nice balance between pretty and maintenance, I hate swirl marks.
for Mequiar's I have used their products for 30 years off and on.

 

[Eltaco]

Lots of sound good advice and tips here from people who obviously know what they are talking about. Some things I didn't see mentioned. Surface temp and humidity play into the final outcome to some extent, depending on the products you are using. Lift the hood to dissipate the engine heat and cool the hood until you are ready to work on it. Another, lighting, you have to be able to see the details of what you are doing. Inspect your efforts from several different angles as you go, it will drive you nuts for a bit until you get the feel and sense of what you are doing. I'm a firm believer in taping off the trim before you start with blue painter's tape. A roomy enough, comfortable garage to work in, heated or cooled as needed.
I've owned black cars and motorcycles in my younger days worked hard to keep them looking good - exactly why my last two trucks have been billet silver!

Is there a way you could practice on another car before you take on your truck? Perhaps a family member who would be thrilled to get their car cleaned up and not be as critical of the results as those of us here in this thread? We are all our own worst critic most of the time.

Above all else, take your time in order, a step at a time. I heat or cool my garage, load up the tunes in my headphones, crank em up, zone out, and just do it. I've learned to enjoy the process over the years. I use Meguiars products, it's a trusted brand for me.

Great tip on the environmental controls. I’ll be choosing a day with moderate temperature now that Spring is in full swing here in KS, but that’s as much control as I’ll get. Great tip on the engine cooling, though. That’s definitely an aspect I can control. I can get my truck into my 3 stall garage at an angle so there will be plenty of room.

As for lighting, I may need to work on that. My garage lighting isn’t great, so I’m installing some brighter flood bulbs in daylight color temp. I also plan to wear my headlamp throughout the process and have a flashlight handy. I can definitely see orange peel and swirling on the truck with these techniques. Can’t honestly say they’ve ever bothered me to a significant degree, but I’ll definitely see if I can find the right technique and recipe to reduce/remove it.

My goal is definitely not show room quality, so my expectations are maybe too low, but should be achievable. Honestly, as long as it comes out looking no worse than it’s current condition AND I get a good long-lasting adhesion of my ceramic coat I’ll be a pretty happy camper. I’ll be beside myself if I get all of the swirl and orange peel knocked down to a mirror finish.

 

[ElkoNV]

Great tip on the environmental controls. I’ll be choosing a day with moderate temperature now that Spring is in full swing here in KS, but that’s as much control as I’ll get. Great tip on the engine cooling, though. That’s definitely an aspect I can control. I can get my truck into my 3 stall garage at an angle so there will be plenty of room.

As for lighting, I may need to work on that. My garage lighting isn’t great, so I’m installing some brighter flood bulbs in daylight color temp. I also plan to wear my headlamp throughout the process and have a flashlight handy. I can definitely see orange peel and swirling on the truck with these techniques. Can’t honestly say they’ve ever bothered me to a significant degree, but I’ll definitely see if I can find the right technique and recipe to reduce/remove it.

My goal is definitely not show room quality, so my expectations are maybe too low, but should be achievable. Honestly, as long as it comes out looking no worse than it’s current condition AND I get a good long-lasting adhesion of my ceramic coat I’ll be a pretty happy camper. I’ll be beside myself if I get all of the swirl and orange peel knocked down to a mirror finish.

DONT try to level the orange peel. Now you are talking professional or very very skilled prosumer level work. Eliminate the swirls, the orange peel will be slightly reduced. Orange peel can be very deep and there is the risk of going through the clear coat. If you focus on eliminating the swirls and stop there you are in the "safe zone". Hopefully, others will chirp in, but as this is your first time on a new vehicle you can remove all the swirl marks safely and end up with a really beautiful daily driver job. Orange peel is usually best removed right after painting, as in wet sanded right next to the paint booth so if it has to go back in it can. Not trying to be a Debbie downer, but you can go down the rabbit hole chasing paint imperfections, and let's face it a bird is going to p**p on it the week after you are done. But at least it won't have swirl marks and will be ceramic coated so one quick wipe with a microfiber towel all done

 

[MrSixStrings12]

Removing orange peel requires wet sanding and then you also get into needing enough clear coat to sand through it also. Just watched a video from AmmoNYC where they remove orange peel on an old Porsche. Definitely not a job for a beginner

 

[securityguy]

Highly recommend 3D off autogeek.net and it is a VERY high quality polish. I doesn't leave a residue all over the truck and does not stain the plastic like other polishes and waxes.

 

[Eltaco]

Removing orange peel requires wet sanding and then you also get into needing enough clear coat to sand through it also. Just watched a video from AmmoNYC where they remove orange peel on an old Porsche. Definitely not a job for a beginner

I’ll definitely be staying away from that.

Lots of great tips in this thread. Appreciate everyone’s help and guidance!

I think all of my equipment will be here by Tuesday. My polisher got put in someone else’s mailbox... so hoping that gets resolved tomorrow.

Then, just need to find the time. Can’t wait to get this going!

 

[ElkoNV]

There have great tips and info in this thread and your other thread. With all the work you are going to put into having a beautiful black truck I wanted to mention maintenance and dispel a myth about ceramic coating. Ceramic coating will not prevent swirl marks. Ceramic coating reduces the surface tension between dirt and your paint. This makes it easier to hose off with a pressure washer so there is less on the vehicle when you wipe it. What is there comes off easier so less wiping, water sheets off better so less drying. Every time you wipe something across the paint you are inducing swirl marks. Become a minimalist when washing. There are a lot of 2 bucket how to wash a car videos on YouTube, but some miss the mark, especially with a black car. So I am just going to throw this out there.

Foam first, let dwell a few minutes.

Rinse well, then foam again.

At this point 90% of the dirt will be off your vehicle.

Use a hairy microfiber mitt. Make ONE pass in one direction, turn the mitt over, one pass in same direction on new spot. As you make your passes roll your hand up so any dirt is lifted away from the paint and a clean part of the mitt is always in contact with the paint as it moves across. Unless you went mudding one pass will do it. Now rinse the mitt and repeat, there is no reason to go over a spot you already wiped. This is where ceramic coating pays huge dividends, minimizing rubbing on the paint minimizing swirls.

After you rinse the truck you want to also minimize wiping with a drying towel. Flooding an area especially the vertical parts may allow the water to completely sheet off. Blowers are great too. When using a towel, laying a quality towel on the truck and patting it dry will get any water without rubbing against the paint, sometimes prewetting and ringing out the towel will help it pick up water off the paint. Always be focused on how to get her all pretty without rubbing the paint. Doing these types of washes and you will still be happy in six months with your work.

 

[Eltaco]

I started this process because the black truck is driving me a bit mad. 3 kids under 10, and I have hand prints or clothes rubbing against the side of the truck frequently. I’m hoping the ceramic pays off, either in keeping it from collecting dirt as quickly, or at least rinsing off easily.

I’m beginning to get concerned I’m going to be so proud of my work that it’s going to be even more frustrating! Ha!

Actually, my initial goal was not to remove swirl marks, but rather just to make sure I did a proper job of prepping for the ceramic coat. I’ve deviated from that a bit as I’ve learned more. Figured if I’m going to invest in and do my best to properly apply a high quality ceramic, may as well do my best to correct minor defects while I’m at at. Honestly the light swirling doesn’t bother me much, but I have a few light scratches here and I’m sure I can clean up a bit. I’ll stay away from trying to correct anything I can catch a fingernail on, but again... my concerns for perfect paint are fairly low, just want to make sure I do a decent job of preparing for the ceramic.

Thanks for all of the tips. I bought some grit traps for my car wash buckets, as well.

I’ll be sure to post some pics once I get rolling!

 

[DeepH2ODriller]

Some REALLY good info here! Here’s my question. I’m currently looking at polishers. I’ve noticed that there are several different “orbit” pattern lengths (22mm, 21mm, 8mm, etc). The OP has stated he’s getting the G9 which is a 9mm orbit. What is the best “beginner” orbit length? And what are they all best suited for? Thanks in advance.


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[Neurobit]

Some REALLY good info here! Here’s my question. I’m currently looking at polishers. I’ve noticed that there are several different “orbit” pattern lengths (22mm, 21mm, 8mm, etc). The OP has stated he’s getting the G9 which is a 9mm orbit. What is the best “beginner” orbit length? And what are they all best suited for? Thanks in advance.


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You can't go wrong with any of them. That's just the offset. The bigger the offset, the larger the "cut" the polisher does per rotation, so in theory you get more done with less passes. In practice, any of them will do the job, but the smaller the offset, the more forgiving it will be in tight spaces since it's more concentric.

If I were to have one all around machine and one only, I would choose one with a 5 backplate and 15mm offset.

Cheers,

 

[ElkoNV]

Some REALLY good info here! Here’s my question. I’m currently looking at polishers. I’ve noticed that there are several different “orbit” pattern lengths (22mm, 21mm, 8mm, etc). The OP has stated he’s getting the G9 which is a 9mm orbit. What is the best “beginner” orbit length? And what are they all best suited for? Thanks in advance.


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What Neurobit said, but you are overthinking this a little. Snapon, Craftsman, Husky, Milwaukee, and what brand oil is best? Any of those brands will last the enthusiast a lifetime. It's more about taking your time, patience and learning to use the tool you get. All of them can produce excellent results.

 

[Neurobit]

What Neurobit said, but you are overthinking this a little. Snapon, Craftsman, Husky, Milwaukee, and what brand oil is best? Any of those brands will last the enthusiast a lifetime. It's more about taking your time, patience and learning to use the tool you get. All of them can produce excellent results.

Yep. Spot on.