New 5th-Gen 1500 Fuse / Relay / Circuit Breaker Diagrams & Documentation

[Jarrambidez]

Im over in miles by about 4K, I have 39K miles on the truck. its a 2019.

 

[skyninja]

2019 RAM 1500 Rebel
I bought a Micro3 fusetap to place in F54A/B position thinking I would have 12V (always on for dashcam in park mode) and 12V ign/acc that would only supply 12V when I start the car. I did this instead of buying 2 micro2 fusetaps and using F33, F66. With my meter on ground and testing each leg of fusetap I only see 12V when I press the start button to either acc or ign. Basically I am not seeing an always on. Am I missing something?

HAL9001, thank you for your work!

 

[securityguy]

2019 RAM 1500 Rebel
I bought a Micro3 fusetap to place in F54A/B position thinking I would have 12V (always on for dashcam in park mode) and 12V ign/acc that would only supply 12V when I start the car. I did this instead of buying 2 micro2 fusetaps and using F33, F66. With my meter on ground and testing each leg of fusetap I only see 12V when I press the start button to either acc or ign. Basically I am not seeing an always on. Am I missing something?

HAL9001, thank you for your work!

You need to use two separate taps...one for F66 and the other for F33

 

[HAL9001]

2019 RAM 1500 Rebel
I bought a Micro3 fusetap to place in F54A/B position thinking I would have 12V (always on for dashcam in park mode) and 12V ign/acc that would only supply 12V when I start the car. I did this instead of buying 2 micro2 fusetaps and using F33, F66. With my meter on ground and testing each leg of fusetap I only see 12V when I press the start button to either acc or ign. Basically I am not seeing an always on. Am I missing something?

HAL9001, thank you for your work!

Yes, you're missing something, but it's not your fault. You need to be careful with Fuse 54. RAM used a Micro3 fuse socket for F54 but did not follow the standard Micro3 wiring convention.

Normally, 12 VDC power is fed into a Micro3 fuse in the center prong. Then the left and right prongs supply fuse protection to two separate circuits.

RAM did not wire fuse F54 in this way. Instead, constant 12 VDC power is fed into the left prong, and Ignition only 12 VDC is fed into the right prong. The center prong goes to the center seat power outlet. This is a rather unconventional use of a Micro3 fuse socket.

With this special wiring arrangement, the vehicle owner has the option of placing a Micro2 fuse into position F54A for constant power to the center seat power outlet or in F54B for Ignition only power to the center seat power outlet.

This is why your Micro3 fuse tap is not working as expected. It expects the center prong to have a 12 VDC feed.

I've updated the RAM Fuse Chart to clarify this.

 

[Matttt]

I posted a diagram for the Internal Fuse Panel recently. This was good information to share with other 5th-Gen 1500 owners because the owner's manual doesn't contain such a diagram and the labels on the panel are very hard to read.

However, there was a lot more information that could be even more useful such as a diagram for the External (Engine Compartment) fuse panel as well as better detailed information about all of the fuses, relays, and circuit breakers. This took a while to compile but it was worth it because it will be a handy reference for anyone who could use it.

I created the information in a spreadsheet database and then published it on the internet. From here anyone can reference it any time online. I've also created two pdf document files if you wish to download the information directly to your computer or your smartphone. You can print a hard copy or keep it on your smartphone to access it easily if you ever encounter any issues on the road.

The website and the files both contain detailed information about both the Internal and External Power Distribution Centers, much more than the owner's manual or any other such documentation I could find. For example, you can now very easily find all fuse and relay locations and reference with expanded detail what each one does. Instead of using the esoteric acronyms used in the owner's manual to describe the fuses and relays, I've expanded most of them to their full names. This makes it much easier to understand what each one does.

Please see for yourself. Here is the RAM 1500 5th-Gen Power Distribution Centers website. Also, I've attached the pdf files for both the Internal and External Power Distribution Centers to this post. Simply download them to your computer and/or smartphone. From there you can print out a hard copy if you wish.

Here is a screenshot example of the partial Fuse Description table:
View attachment 83349

Here are the included Fuse Panel Diagrams:

External Fuse Panel:

View attachment 83355

Internal Fuse Panel:

View attachment 83356

The pdf files are attached below. One is for the Internal Fuse Panel, the other is for the External Panel.

I hope you find this information us

VERY NICE
which ones have constant power ( internal fuse box ) ?
thx

 

[securityguy]

VERY NICE
which ones have constant power ( internal fuse box ) ?
thx

I believe F66 is controlled by the IGN and F33 is constant power 24/7

 

[Diamondback]

Kewl info .. thanks for taking the time to put that together .. I've just always used the lid info myself.

 

[HAL9001]

VERY NICE
which ones have constant power ( internal fuse box ) ?
thx

As I explained above, fuse position F54A also supplies constant power.

 

[HAL9001]

Kewl info .. thanks for taking the time to put that together .. I've just always used the lid info myself.

Yea, so do I usually, but it was really hard to figure out all the fuses, especially in a pinch, and my aging eyes don't do so well with black-on-black micro lettering. So, I took some time to make a nice chart clearly showing everything. I keep a paper copy in the glove compartment or I can access it online from my smartphone.

 

[securityguy]

As I explained above, fuse position F54A also supplies constant power.

Personally, I would not utilize F54 because of its design and purpose. There are others that are just as easy to access and will create less confusion.

 

[HAL9001]

Personally, I would not utilize F54 because of its design and purpose. There are others that are just as easy to access and will create less confusion.

I've been using F54 for my dashcam with no issues for six months. It's really no different than any other fuse location other than you have the option of selecting constant power or ignition-only power, which is nice. You simply need to properly insert the fuse tap knowing that the power feed is either to the right (constant power) or left (ignition-only power) and not in the center. Properly inserting a fuse tap is vital to any fuse location as I explained previously. An accessory installer must always be aware of which side of the fuse socket the power is supplied and then install the tap correctly. No one should ever install a fuse tap if they don't know exactly what they're doing.

I much prefer F54 for constant power over F33 as others recommend. I don't consider F54 critical because it only services the center seat power outlet which I rarely if ever use, whereas F33 services the 911 Call Switch and the Assist Call Switch which I personally do consider quite critical. Those fuse taps can potentially dislodge, so I never use them on any fuse I consider critical.

Everyone will need to make their own choice on this depending upon their own criteria.

 

[HAL9001]

Everyone should be aware that the Internal Fuse Panel is secured by a cover that has two rather long hex-head screws holding it in place. Oddly enough, these screws cannot be removed by a flat-head or Phillips screwdriver. You would think that RAM would design this service cover to be easily removed in a pinch without any special tools, but that's not the case. You'll need a 9/32" (or 7mm) socket to remove them. You can also manage it with an adjustable wrench, but that would be quite annoying since the screws are so long and the hex head is so small.

This is probably the most inconvenient to remove fuse service cover I've ever encountered in any vehicle. You would never even know it was a fuse cover if you weren't aware of it beforehand. Such a bizarre design, most vehicle fuse covers are clearly marked and very easily removable by hand without tools.

In any case, you should always carry a suitable tool in your truck to easily remove these screws if you ever blow a fuse on the road.

 

[Nsleone]

Everyone should be aware that the Internal Fuse Panel is secured by a cover that has two rather long hex-head screws holding it in place. Oddly enough, these screws cannot be removed by a flat-head or Phillips screwdriver. You would think that RAM would design this service cover to be easily removed in a pinch without any special tools, but that's not the case. You'll need a 9/32" (or 7mm) socket to remove them. You can also manage it with an adjustable wrench, but that would be quite annoying since the screws are so long and the hex head is so small.

This is probably the most inconvenient to remove fuse service cover I've ever encountered in any vehicle. You would never even know it was a fuse cover if you weren't aware of it beforehand. Such a bizarre design, most vehicle fuse covers are clearly marked and very easily removable by hand without tools.

In any case, you should always carry a suitable tool in your truck to easily remove these screws if you ever blow a fuse on the road.

I guess whoever assembled my truck chose to save me the hassle and not instal the internal fuse box cover along with a few other things I’ve found missing as I see underneath other people’s trucks on the forums… my truck is a “pandemic baby” as I call it (built May 2020) so maybe that’s why.

 

[securityguy]

I guess whoever assembled my truck chose to save me the hassle and not instal the internal fuse box cover along with a few other things I’ve found missing as I see underneath other people’s trucks on the forums… my truck is a “pandemic baby” as I call it (built May 2020) so maybe that’s why.

You have the cover...it is where your knees hit. The two screws are at the bottom of that knee plate. There is no "cover" over the fuse box itself I think you are misunderstanding what folks are referring to.

 

[Nsleone]

You have the cover...it is where your knees hit. The two screws are at the bottom of that knee plate. There is no "cover" over the fuse box itself I think you are misunderstanding what folks are referring to.

Yep…sorry lol. I read this forum after spending three hours under the dash. I am missing some white padding I saw on the back of that kick panel on someone else’s truck, but I am assuming that it was from the factory and not added afterwards.

 

[Nsleone]

And on the note of fuse boxes, are we able to utilize the “spare” spots? There’s quite a few of them inside and out. Do any of them have power hooked up? I’m also in the phase of searching for a port that has power only wen ignition is on.

 

[bskubon]

I went thru all the spare fuse spots on the fuse box under the hood - none are wired up. I had to use a fuse tap.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Wile E]

Outfrigginstanding!!! KUDOS to you Sir!

 

[Wile E]

And on the note of fuse boxes, are we able to utilize the “spare” spots? There’s quite a few of them inside and out. Do any of them have power hooked up? I’m also in the phase of searching for a port that has power only wen ignition is on.

I am sure you have figured this out by now, but someone else may be searching and here is what I learned. On the interior F54 is "customer selectable" (up to) 20A and is switched. I used a tap to hook up my dash cam.

 

[HAL9001]

I am sure you have figured this out by now, but someone else may be searching and here is what I learned. On the interior F54 is "customer selectable" (up to) 20A and is switched. I used a tap to hook up my dash cam.

F54 is a special case. It can be tapped to supply either constant power or switched power depending upon which side you use, A or B.

See this thread for more details.