Looking for spare fuse slot

[jimothy]

Could you explain this to me like I’m 5 lol. I am trying to keep the battery from draining because I only drive it on weekends

SwitchPros will turn itself (and connected devices) off when it senses your battery voltage is low. So if you accidentally leave a light pod on, it’ll drain your battery but no lower than the cut off voltage.

Unfortunately, 12 V is the highest voltage SwitchPros will let you select. Still, that’ll provide some protection.

 

[JRD]

SwitchPros will turn itself (and connected devices) off when it senses your battery voltage is low. So if you accidentally leave a light pod on, it’ll drain your battery but no lower than the cut off voltage.

Unfortunately, 12 V is the highest voltage SwitchPros will let you select. Still, that’ll provide some protection.

Let’s say hypothetically, I hook the switch pro to one of the studs, with no lights on how quickly would it drain the battery (although I do see that it should turn itself off)

I wish I could smack whatever ram engineer decided not to power any of these fuses.

 

[JRD]

Help finding ACC Only engine fuse box maybe this thread will help

According to that thread the second stud from the firewall only comes on during ACC or Run. This may solve my problem as long as these braindead engineers didn’t do something stupid lol

Edit: the guy was Canadian, we may be back to square one lol. I’m going to try and check tomorrow

 

[jimothy]

Let’s say hypothetically, I hook the switch pro to one of the studs, with no lights on how quickly would it drain the battery (although I do see that it should turn itself off)

I wish I could smack whatever ram engineer decided not to power any of these fuses.

It loois like the idle current for SwitchPros is between 3-35 mA.

So assuming 40 amp-hours of usable energy in the battery, or 40,000 mAh , you’re looking at 1,600 hours worst case.

Even 35 mA is nothing to worry about. What you need to worry about is an accidentally leaving a light on, not the idle draw of the SwitchPros.

I don’t have a SwitchPros, so don’t take my word for it (refer to the manual), but it looks like you want to hook up the power module either directly to the battery or a stud, properly fused), then use the ignition input signal wire to tell it when the truck is running. That’s going to be a low current, and that’s what you need to tap into.

And yeah, that brings you right back where you started: which fuse to tap into. But remember, the SwitchPro isn’t going to draw much current from this signal wire; it just wants to know if there’s voltage on that wire. So I wouldn’t worry about tapping into F66 or whatever.

Absolutely don’t try to power your SwitchPro from a fuse tap, though; just use that for the signal.

If you already knew this, my apologies!

I use a Garmin PowerSwitch, and it works similarly: wired directly to the battery positive, with a signal wire running from a fuse tap.

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

According to that thread the second stud from the firewall only comes on during ACC or Run. This may solve my problem as long as these braindead engineers didn’t do something stupid lol

Edit: the guy was Canadian, we may be back to square one lol. I’m going to try and check tomorrow

i did not read into it to far but i thought a few u.s. members confirmed it was enabled on theirs but i could be wrong (its late im tired)

 

[theblet]

Correct, I’m running out of options it seems. I’m going to test the studs and see if any of those are off while truck is off

Use one of the fuses under the dash. f33 or f66. Can’t remember exactly which one