Leveling Kit Review/Pics ??

[PROJO]

The Falcons only lift 1.25". I put 1/2" Wulf spacers in to get an additional 1/2".

I currently have the 1.5" top hat spacer from the 3.5" readylift - took out my 2" preloaded spacer, as it wasn't recommended to put on the Rebels...What would you suggest I do to gain those 2" back (since the falcons don't really achieve the full 2")

 

[dirtfreak20]

Could you send me some pics? Does your truck sit 3.5” levelled now?

My truck had about 2” of rake from factory. I wanted to keep a slight rake in it because of towing and just personal preference look so now it has just about 1” rake which you can hardly tell. With the factory 1” plus the 2.5” spacer it is now 3.5” higher in the front than non rebels or ORG trucks. Here’s the best picture I have at the moment.

 

[PROJO]

My truck had about 2” of rake from factory. I wanted to keep a slight rake in it because of towing and just personal preference look so now it has just about 1” rake which you can hardly tell. With the factory 1” plus the 2.5” spacer it is now 3.5” higher in the front than non rebels or ORG trucks. Here’s the best picture I have at the moment. View attachment 71075

Awesome!! Looks good! Thank you, for the photo - I'm going to be installing the Bilstein 5100s next week. How do you like the ride from them, and do they feel better than the stock suspension?

 

[21TRX]

 

[Bee7_ivan]

I did control arms and a top puck.

 

[PROJO]

View attachment 71197 View attachment 71198

Could you add a top 1.5" spacer to these coil overs?

 

[Nsm42]

View attachment 71197 View attachment 71198

Coming soon?

 

[wlay00]

I have the Bilstein 5100's on setting 5 and also a 1/2 inch motofab spacer in. Sits only 1/4inch lower in front. Damn near perfectly level and rides amazing. Highly recommend. NO UCA's either.

 

[VanillaGoorilla]

So, with a lot of you all replacing UCA’s ... is there a reason I’m missing? Seems like you are gonna spend close to the same leveling as you would with a moderate lift?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dearchristopher]

So, with a lot of you all replacing UCA’s ... is there a reason I’m missing? Seems like you are gonna spend close to the same leveling as you would with a moderate lift?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

anything over 3” on the front end of the DT trucks requires a higher angle ball joint. stock control arms are steel with a high-impact plastic reinforcement. the mopar lift kit control arm is identical, with a higher travel ball joint. aftermarket UCA’s are higher quality with greasable ball joints. ORP trucks are 1” higher than stock level, so 2” lift already maxes out ball joints, which means you are knocking on the door of premature failure at a 2” or greater net-lift up front.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[dearchristopher]

word to the wise with the readylift kits: *check your stud clearance on the strut with the top hat spacer installed!!* (my truck is a lonestar with ORP, basically the same as you non-airlift rebel folks)

i’m very happy with the readylift kit, both with packaging quality, material quality, welds, and pretty much all aspects. BUT...the top hat spacer didn’t clear the studs on the strut. this is a simple grind down, doesn’t bother me...but the instructions don’t say a thing about cutting down strut studs up top.

to be clear: if you did not grind down your studs...
you’re lifting your truck with the height of your strut studs!

pics below

you can see that the weight of the truck was embedding the studs into the strut tower. this is a no-go from me, and i would assume many of you as well. i’m going to reach out to ready lift and request they update their instructions to include checking the studs for clearance. i was mostly frustrated because we had already finished driver side and moved on to passenger side before my buddy noticed. i got a zip tie and poked it through the strut tower, and the clearance between the strut tower and lift spacer was enough to “lose” the zip tie. needless to say, we ripped the front end back apart and got things straightened out.

i am still happy with the aesthetics, and the quality of the control arms. this is really why i bought the kit. i might jump up to a 2.5” spacer, or bilsteins depending on ride quality. right now i love the lift without losing that land yacht ride quality.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[GARebel19]

I certainly did not notice that when installing my truck but I didn't look for that either. Now you got me worried and wanting to check but I really don't want to take all that apart again. Jeez

 

[Nsm42]

that’s the 2” leveling kit, right? Looks good, do you think the beefy UCAs will require negative offset rims if you go wider on the tires?

 

[dearchristopher]

I certainly did not notice that when installing my truck but I didn't look for that either. Now you got me worried and wanting to check but I really don't want to take all that apart again. Jeez

if it makes sense, take something stiff but thin and try to “poke” it between the top of the strut tower and the top hat spacer. if the studs are higher than the spacer, there will be an obvious gap between the strut tower and spacer. i used a zip tie. if the spacer and strut tower are doing their jobs, the zip tie goes nowhere. i hope yours is good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dearchristopher]

that’s the 2” leveling kit, right? Looks good, do you think the beefy UCAs will require negative offset rims if you go wider on the tires?

mine is the 2” readylift level, yes. here’s a pic of the space on the stock ATs.

my 4th gen with 35/12.50/20 on stock wheels was crazy close to the control arm. like half an inch close. haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dirtfreak20]

mine is the 2” readylift level, yes. here’s a pic of the space on the stock ATs.

my 4th gen with 35/12.50/20 on stock wheels was crazy close to the control arm. like half an inch close. haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have a picture of your truck with the 35s and level. I debated about going 35s but didn’t want to do any trimming plus they aren’t really rates for our stock wheel width. With all that said I still am thinking I want to do it someday.

 

[dearchristopher]

Do you have a picture of your truck with the 35s and level. I debated about going 35s but didn’t want to do any trimming plus they aren’t really rates for our stock wheel width. With all that said I still am thinking I want to do it someday.

here it is when i was test driving my current. it’s a 2wd 4th gen with a 1” block in the rear and 4” spindle up front, that truck was slightly taller than my buddy’s bilstein leveled 4th gen on 35s. it also had timber grove bags in the rear to hold up the shell. i love the new rig but damn it do i miss that white truck sometimes. mostly the shell, awning, and mods i did to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[antwon412]

Ready

Do you have a picture of your truck with the 35s and level. I debated about going 35s but didn’t want to do any trimming plus they aren’t really rates for our stock wheel width. With all that said I still am thinking I want to do it someday.

Readylift 2” lever and UCAs. 18x9 wheel. 285/75r18 which is a skinny 35 - only abou 11” wide if I remember correctly.
Zero rubbing on my Rebel.

 

[dearchristopher]

Ready

Readylift 2” lever and UCAs. 18x9 wheel. 285/75r18 which is a skinny 35 - only abou 11” wide if I remember correctly.
Zero rubbing on my Rebel.

looks fantastic. how are you liking that soft topper? really dig your wheel choice too. i plan on doing nearly the same wheel and tire size when these factory ATs go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[antwon412]

looks fantastic. how are you liking that soft topper? really dig your wheel choice too. i plan on doing nearly the same wheel and tire size when these factory ATs go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like it a lot so far. Very handy. Haven’t had a chance to test it in rain yet, but when washing the truck there was no water inside the bed.