Is this an air dam

[howster]

Hi,
I've a 2019 Ram Laramie and always thought I didn't have an air dam because I was of the impression I had the air suspension hence no air dam.
I've been getting a U11E9 Active Grille Shutter (AGS) code but despite replacing the AGS I am getting the same error code 10 months later. I read that the issue may be an Air Dam issue and some people got letters from Ram to get the Dealership to fix it under a warranty. I haven't. I took the attached pics under my truck and to my amateur eye it looks like an air dam. Is it an air dam? I've gone ahead and unplugged it and erased the code using the ODB scanner. I also just took the negative terminal off the battery for an hour to reset truck computer.
Am going about this the right way? I include the truck specs attached. I don't mind if air dam stays unplugged as I want code to clear for state inspection.
Thanks.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Yes, that's an active air dam. I thought there was an extended warranty on them if you want to take it to dealer.

 

[HSKR R/T]

And FWIW, if they connect to OBD2 port to scan for codes, they will still see a code for it. It just doesn't pop a check engine light

 

[howster]

Thanks. I don't want the dealership to screw me and charge me $200 for a diagnosis (an OBD scan that I already did myself) that simply tells me what I already know i.e. the engine light is the result of the Active Grille Shutter U11E9 code. I just want to establish that the 8 year extended warranty (that I just called them about ) covers the repair. I understand that the Air Dam can throw that exact error from Googling and other Ram Forum posts. Strangely the Window Sticker attached for my truck seems to suggest I don't have an Air Dam "Active Front Air Dam (N/A 4–Corner Air Suspension)". I noticed if I unplug the Air Dam I lose camera and radio functionality and other screen features.

 

[howster]

Window Sticker PDF suggests I don't have an Air Dam going off "Active Front Air Dam (N/A 4–Corner Air Suspension)"

 

[howster]

Yes, that's an active air dam. I thought there was an extended warranty on them if you want to take it to dealer.

Yup Air Dam warranty extends in my case to 2027 Ram Corp tell me. The dealership confirmed it just now over the phone. Funny the extended warranty never came up in 2022 when I brought down the truck to the dealership for the initial U11E9 error for the original AGS issue and they quoted me $2k+ to repair. I just don't trust my local dealership at all.

 

[bigdodge]

Window Sticker PDF suggests I don't have an Air Dam going off "Active Front Air Dam (N/A 4–Corner Air Suspension)"

read your build sheet it has way more info

https://www.chrysler.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1C6SRFJT8KN702543

 

[howster]

read your build sheet it has way more info

https://www.chrysler.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=1C6SRFJT8KN702543

Thanks. Is there another error code for Air Dams other than U11E9?

 

[HSKR R/T]

Yup Air Dam warranty extends in my case to 2027 Ram Corp tell me. The dealership confirmed it just now over the phone. Funny the extended warranty never came up in 2022 when I brought down the truck to the dealership for the initial U11E9 error for the original AGS issue and they quoted me $2k+ to repair. I just don't trust my local dealership at all.

The extended warranty on the AAD came about this year, so in 2022, it wasn't a thing.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Thanks. I don't want the dealership to screw me and charge me $200 for a diagnosis (an OBD scan that I already did myself) that simply tells me what I already know i.e. the engine light is the result of the Active Grille Shutter U11E9 code. I just want to establish that the 8 year extended warranty (that I just called them about ) covers the repair. I understand that the Air Dam can throw that exact error from Googling and other Ram Forum posts. Strangely the Window Sticker attached for my truck seems to suggest I don't have an Air Dam "Active Front Air Dam (N/A 4–Corner Air Suspension)". I noticed if I unplug the Air Dam I lose camera and radio functionality and other screen features.

Unplugging the AAD shouldn't effect any radio functions. Unless you are disconnecting your battery before unplugging the AAD

 

[howster]

Unplugging the AAD shouldn't effect any radio functions. Unless you are disconnecting your battery before unplugging the AAD

I've no idea why it impacts the camera. I unplugged the connector for the air dam as far as I know. You can see the connector in question at the 5m0s mark of

I did unhook the -ve terminal of the truck battery B4 unplugging the air dam and left it unplugged for an hr to reset computer. Maybe that's the issue so?

Right now battery is hooked up and air dam connector is back in place. Do I simply disconnect that Air Dam connector while battery is fully connected and the camera should work?
Thanks

 

[howster]

Update. Camera didn't work as I had battery disconnected when unplugging air dam. Thanks all.
Now just gotta wait a few days to see.if U11E9 returns.

 

[6of36]

Update. Camera didn't work as I had Air Dam unplugged when disconnecting air dam. Thanks all.
Now just gotta wait a few days to see.if U11E9 returns.

By the way, your sticker doesn't show the air suspension any way. It's a separate $1800 option, that isn't there, so you should have the air dam.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I've no idea why it impacts the camera. I unplugged the connector for the air dam as far as I know. You can see the connector in question at the 5m0s mark of

I did unhook the -ve terminal of the truck battery B4 unplugging the air dam and left it unplugged for an hr to reset computer. Maybe that's the issue so?

Right now battery is hooked up and air dam connector is back in place. Do I simply disconnect that Air Dam connector while battery is fully connected and the camera should work?
Thanks

You do not need to unhook battery when disconnecting the air dam. Unhooking the battery is why you temporarily lost features but having the air dam unhook

 

[howster]

By the way, your sticker doesn't show the air suspension any way. It's a separate $1800 option, that isn't there, so you should have the air dam.

Ok thanks. I'm always learning.

 

[howster]

You do not need to unhook battery when disconnecting the air dam. Unhooking the battery is why you temporarily lost features but having the air dam unhook

Ok thanks. I've lots to learn. Out of curiosity why would having the battery disconnected while unplugging the air dam impact the rear camera and radio. I thought I was doing the right thing unplugging the negative battery wire while disconnecting the air dam or wire hardnesses. Is it a computer memory issue or something? Also does it matter how fuses are oriented eg. right side up vs upside down? I see in the attached some fuses are upside down eg CB1

 

[howster]

Thanks for all the great help. Learned a lot today

 

[6of36]

No, doesn't matter which way fuses are pointed. If I noticed they were different way, I would turn them all to the way it was easier to read, but that's beyond necessary.

 

[howster]

Ok thanks. I remember changing an interior fuse (F43 on memory) to right side up a year ago and my rear view camera stopped working. I had to reorient it upside down to restore the camera. All kinds.of weird stuff happens when I go near fixing my truck. Lol
Should I have battery negative unplugged when changing fuses, cleaning wire harness connections or grounds. Afraid of short circuiting something.

 

[6of36]

Ok thanks. I remember changing an interior fuse (F43 on memory) to right side up a year ago and my rear view camera stopped working. I had to reorient it upside down to restore the camera. All kinds.of weird stuff happens when I go near fixing my truck. Lol

That would be coincidental, or if it was the fuse for the camera, and it just didn't reboot yet, after you killed it. A fuse is just a sacrificial link in the wire. It overheats, and melts before melting the wire, in case of a short. Power can flow through either way. The little wire inside at least used to be lead in the old days, not sure if that's still so. When wires get overloaded, they get hot. The link in the fuse will melt at a lower temperature than the wire. That's why is important to always use the proper fuse, and not put in a higher amp fuse. The wire and fuse are sized for the load. If you put in a bigger fuse, it might not fail, before the wire overheats and melts.