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Installed Dual Battery with Redarc Isolator

When you say pressure, do you mean you had to jump your batter after the couple of days or the low battery warning came on? Thanks for the info I will get a camera on my truck as soon as it lands, they are worth every dollar!


Ordered while the sh*t was hitting the fan..Hydro-Blue Laramie Group 2, Air-suspension, Off-road, Sport, Uconnect 12, power running boards, dual panel moonroof.
After several days even with the Power Magic EZ plugged in the voltage on the battery would fall below 12V on my Multi-Meter. I would have to put the battery tender on the battery.

I noticed that several members of the forum were having battery issues and they did not have the dashcams installed. Did not want to take the chance of killing my starter battery.

I did order some jumper cables however in case that situation arises. I should be able to jump myself off from the Auxiliary battery.
 
Subbed for info on how to hack 2500batt tray....

My vote is this is a sticky quality Write-up....admins?
 
If you have alphaobd, set ibs min voltage to 13.5v or more and min charge to 100%
 
Because stock the IBS system only charges the battery when the voltage drops to 10v.
My truck charges the battery when I first crank it up and the entire time I'm driving it. Charges at 14.7 V - 14.1 V

Perhaps the e-torque equipped trucks use a different charging profile.
 
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Hooked up the LEDGlow’s Million Color LED Truck Lighting Kit to the under body of the truck.

Used the auxiliary battery so I can run the lights while camping or while sitting in the parking lot without draining the starter battery down.

The kit comes with a remote so you can turn the lights on and off from inside or outside of the truck.

 
After several days even with the Power Magic EZ plugged in the voltage on the battery would fall below 12V on my Multi-Meter. I would have to put the battery tender on the battery.

I noticed that several members of the forum were having battery issues and they did not have the dashcams installed. Did not want to take the chance of killing my starter battery.

I did order some jumper cables however in case that situation arises. I should be able to jump myself off from the Auxiliary battery.
I consistently have to put the 4 amp harbor freight trickle charger on the wifes truck (weekly) due to its battery management system not keeping the starting battery charged up (in order to save a tenth of a mile per gallon probably). The engineers have taken that part of the economy quest to an extreme. You’ll spend more on replacing costly batteries than you will save at the pump. Ford had the same problems with the F150.
 
My truck charges the battery when I first crank it up and the entire time I'm driving it. Charges at 14.7 V - 14.1 V

Perhaps the e-torque equipped trucks use a different charging profile.
Id like to verify what mine (hers) runs at however I suspect it doesn’t continously charge as the truck is always down to the low to mid 12’s for voltage even after just a day of non-driving. The battery doesn’t seem to have a parasitical drain on it otherwise it would have long since died since she doesn’t drive but maybe weekly, sometimes not even that (April 2019 purchase and currently 11K miles...).

I haven't seen a voltage gauge for the instrument panel display that gives an actual numerical reading, just a “hard to tell whats happening“ sweep-style pointer. I do know that the battery charger and the multimeter both match within .1 volt and both indicate 12.4 to 12.5 within a day after driving vs 12.8 or 12.9 after being charged.
Having a resting reading of 12.4 is too low for good health/longevity on a regular basis.

A pretty decent article from AdvanceAutoParts.com states: “Measuring your car battery’s voltage can be a great way to determine how charged your battery might be. The ideal car battery voltage range will provide you with a relevant interval according to which you can measure precisely what the voltage says about the battery’s current charge.
A perfect voltage with the engine running is between 13.7 and 14.7V. With the engine off, you should get a reading of 12.6 volts. If the battery isn’t fully charged, it will diminish to 12.4V at 75%, 12V when it’s only operating at 25%, and down to 11.9V when it’s completely discharged. This data and the way it relates to the design of your battery should provide you with some useful insight into the functioning capacity of your car battery.” (End of copied portion)

If some of you have an AGM battery, they prefer even higher charging voltages than do flooded lead acid (or even the same style but valve regulated lead acid). AGM’s typically like appx 14.8 volts for a bulk charge. For those of you who like the spiral wound Optima’s, they like even higher charging and have slightly higher “at rest” voltages.

The different manufacturers (theres only about 3-4 makers now for all of the 12v starting and marine type batteries, just a lot of rebranding going on) have slightly differing voltage specs for their products however they mostly agree on certain numbers.

You’ll have to look it up, or watch some YT videos like “How to charge AGM batteries” (7:15 long) from Delphi. Thats a good basic information video on both batteries and 12v chargers.
 
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Id like to verify what mine (hers) runs at however Insuspect it doesn’t continously charge as the truck 9s always down to the low to mid 12’s for voltage even afterva day of non-driving. The battery doesn’t seem to have a parasitical drain on it otherwise it would have long since died since she doesn’t drive it but maybe weekly.

I haven't seen a voltage gauge display that gives an actual numerical reading, just a “hard to tell whats happening“ sweep-style pointer. I do know that the battery charger and the multimeter both match within .1 volt and both indicate 12.3 to 12.5 within a day after driving. Thats too low for good health/longevity on a regular basis.

In your dashboard cluster should be under Car Information or some like that, scroll to the left or right will get you the the page show the voltage in number.
 
In your dashboard cluster should be under Car Information or some like that, scroll to the left or right will get you the the page show the voltage in number.
Not to steal the op thread however I just re-went thru the settings on the left side of the steering wheel (you know the one with upper left, lower left, upper right, lower right, center etc) and while there are lots of helpful fluid temps, different kinds of trip odometers and fuel economy, a compass, idling vs driving hours etc., theres no digital voltage readout that I could find. Any idea of where it is?
A screen shot would be great!
 
Not to steal the op thread however I just re-went thru the settings on the left side of the steering wheel (you know the one with upper left, lower left, upper right, lower right, center etc) and while there are lots of helpful fluid temps, different kinds of trip odometers and fuel economy, a compass, idling vs driving hours etc., theres no digital voltage readout that I could find. Any idea of where it is?
A screen shot would be great!

Go to the one that shows your temp/engine oil level etc and press < or > to cycle through more info
 
Go to the one that shows your temp/engine oil level etc and press < or > to cycle through more info
Ok I did find it under section 2 however that means I lose the odometer/speedometer in the center... while it’s nice to have voltage on there, the wife doesn’t care and she won’t like losing her large font digital speedo... and I don’t want her to or I’ll be paying the speeding tickets due to the great RAM ride making you feel like 85 is 45...

I did see 14.7 volts indicated though, thats reassuring!
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Ok I did find it under section 2 however that means I lose the odometer/speedometer in the center... while it’s nice to have voltage on there, the wife doesn’t care and she won’t like losing her large font digital speedo... and I don’t want her to or I’ll be paying the speeding tickets due to the great RAM ride making you feel like 85 is 45...

I did see 14.7 volts indicated though, thats reassuring!
Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, you will loose odometer/speedometer in the center but it will show on center top of cluster, smaller but still big enough to easy look for it.(unless you changed to something else.)
 
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I’m about to do my own Redarc install. Did we confirm the 5th DT’s (gas / non e-torque) have smart alternators? Redarc provides some guidance how to check for this on their website by mentioning the voltage to look for when your truck is running. Mine always seems to be at 14.6-14.7 v but they also mention one of the indicators of a “smart” alternator is an extra module attached to the battery which I have in the negative terminal.
 
I’m about to do my own Redarc install. Did we confirm the 5th DT’s (gas / non e-torque) have smart alternators? Redarc provides some guidance how to check for this on their website by mentioning the voltage to look for when your truck is running. Mine always seems to be at 14.6-14.7 v but they also mention one of the indicators of a “smart” alternator is an extra module attached to the battery which I have in the negative terminal.
I believe the newer trucks have the Variable Voltage Alternators are also commonly known as ‘Smart Alternators’ or ‘Computer Controlled Alternators’.

Redarc Battery Smart Altenator.PNG

Redarc recommends that you use the BCDC1225D, BCDC1240D or Manager15 or Manager30 instead of the SBI12 to compensate for these situations and to charge and maintain your auxiliary batteries to 100%.
 
I believe the newer trucks have the Variable Voltage Alternators are also commonly known as ‘Smart Alternators’ or ‘Computer Controlled Alternators’.

View attachment 81649

Redarc recommends that you use the BCDC1225D, BCDC1240D or Manager15 or Manager30 instead of the SBI12 to compensate for these situations and to charge and maintain your auxiliary batteries to 100%.

Cool, thanks for the information, I have a BCDC1225 sitting on my bench for install this weekend🤘🏼🤘🏼
 

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