That is a cool lithium battery.I admire your dedication.
I just think it's easier to have a single battery you can install and lift with one finger.
It's all built in. There's a 20% SOC cutoff and then you need to press the button or use a keyfob it came with to reactivate the battery to full 100% CCA.That is a cool lithium battery.
I did not realize it had Built-In Jump Start.
Does it keep a separate battery pack for starting the vehicle if the battery is low?
Got the REDARC Smart Start® SBI12 microprocessor-controlled battery isolator installed yesterday afternoon, which protects the start battery from excessive discharge, while allowing the auxiliary battery to supply charge to non-essential loads.Wow! Excellent job! I definitely do not have the skills you have so I'm not sure I will attempt this. Now I will be looking forward to see how you link the two batteries. I presume you will use the switch bank of the 2500 for accessories that you will hook up to the new battery? Please keep us informed as to your progress. Really enjoy following this along. Thank you!
The truck actually seems to track better since I added the spare battery (weight) over the front passenger tire.The ones I've post are made for automotive applications. Same charging profiles, have an integrated BMS and thermal and voltage protections and work well down to -10c and up to 60c operating termperatures.. below 10c you need to run some accessories to warm them up to get full power. Considering the H7/94R for the 1500 would have 1800CCA I don't think loosing 1/2 that or more is going to not start your truck. It is NOT lot a lead acid battery. Below 10C, you need to be garaging or hibernating or running a heater anyways.
you are going to spend $200 on another AGM battery, $70 on the battery tray, $100 for the isolator. The lithium already does all that, no worries about voltage or amps or load balancing, no worries about a discharge. it cuts itself off at 20% capacity and you can "jump start" yourself and reactivate the battery. Price wise, you are already halfway there. No think about how nice it would be to loose 60+ lbs of dead weight.
REDARC Smart Start Battery Isolator & Wiring Kit 12V | Part # SBI12KIT | $221.97 |
Bolt-Hex Flange Head | Part # CH6104378AA | $1.35 |
Bracket - Battery | Part # CH68082538AB | $3.45 |
Insulated Battery Shield | Part # CH56029822AD | $30.25 |
Battery Tray | Part # CH68350658AC | $70.75 |
12V 750AMP Flooded Battery | Part# CHBBH7F001AA | $160.50 |
Total | $491.72 |
Excellent Job!! I have saved this equipment list and will attempt to do the same. However, I live in upstate NY where temps can get to minus 15 degrees below 0 and hang there for some time. I'm thinking I need a regular automotive battery with the typical high cold cranking amps? Adds weight but may be a more practical application for my location.
It is my understanding that deep cycle batteries and AGM, GEL require different charging profiles.Given the intent of the battery is not a starting battery, you might want to consider a deep cycle battery. The deep cycle battery will provide more amp hours and last longer with the drain/recharge cycles. Very common in RV/Marine use.
It is my understanding that deep cycle batteries and AGM, GEL require different charging profiles.
Which is why you use different type of controllers for the charging.
I wanted to match the battery to the stock for that reason.
When it is time to replace the factory battery I will replace them with AGM batteries which should cut down on some weight, give me more Cold Cranking Amps CCA and faster recharge and a slower discharge.Yes, AGM vs GEL vs Flooded, have different charging profiles, so smart move not to mix with out proper charger electronics to compensate.
However, if you maintain the the battery type, Flooded to Flooded, AGM to AGM, etc. there is no 'charging issue' with mixing a starting battery with a deep cycle battery - they both can handle the same charge profile. The difference is in the plates. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates allowing for a deeper discharge, and more repative discharges, with out damage, but give up 'burst' or 'starting amps'. Starting batteries use thinner or sponge type of plates, that if discharged down to say 80%, and done repetively, will be damaged and the life of the battery greatly reduced. quick google will give you more than you want to know
I guess I did.You got gyped, my stock POS battery was an agm....
I Installed the RAM Airflow Intake to make the room for the battery or you could go with a Vararam intake same deseign but no cover.I'd totally be interested in adding the auxiliary battery, but my 2019 Ram Limited 1500 5.7 Hemi has the Air intake where you installed your 2nd battery. What'd you do with the intake, or do you have a different engine?
Moved my BlackVue Dashcam DR750S-1CH from the Starter Battery to the Auxiliary Battery.
Had to run through the firewall for this installation.
This camera put more pressure on the battery than I expected. Especially if I let the truck sit for a couple of days (Covid-19).