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How to properly break in an engine?


9 jet skis, 4 quads, 1/2 dozen dirtbikes, dozen cars, all broken in under load. couple minutes for initial warm up then let'r rip. piston / ring pics say it all. never had an engine / piston failure, nothing ever burned a drop of oil, not even my hellcat.

My Charger Hellcat engine was broken in on the dyno before the engine went in the car. Thanks SRT !
 

9 jet skis, 4 quads, 1/2 dozen dirtbikes, dozen cars, all broken in under load. couple minutes for initial warm up then let'r rip. piston / ring pics say it all. never had an engine / piston failure, nothing ever burned a drop of oil, not even my hellcat.

My Charger Hellcat engine was broken in on the dyno before the engine went in the car. Thanks SRT !

Thanks chris288,

It makes me think of cars zooming into loading ships or containers off the factory and the narration stating that they were seating the rings on the new engines and the zipped around very rapidly.

He didn't say much about speed though.
 
Break in procedures are more for the rest of the driveline, not the engine.
 
hardly.

do you have a back ground in automotive?
I have my fair share. I haven't followed the break-in procedure and have never had an engine issue. If someone wants to follow the break-in to a T, their choice. I choose to drive it normal
 
Break in procedures are more for the rest of the driveline, not the engine.
This is correct. It is so that should something go wrong you won't be traveling at high speeds. (Lawyers?) At any normal highway speed your engine is running at speeds that are barely above idle. Yes, I have been playing cars for more than 50 years.
 
This is correct. It is so that should something go wrong you won't be traveling at high speeds. (Lawyers?) At any normal highway speed your engine is running at speeds that are barely above idle. Yes, I have been playing cars for more than 50 years.
sorry you have been given incorrect info.
 
I have appreciated reading this blog and the various contributions. I checked with a relative who has owned and garage for like 20+ years and he builds cars basically as in modifies them and drops supercharged engines in them. He agrees with the manual. So, I'm convinced, stay with the manual.

Just a comment, these "newer" engines are being pressed in ways their predecessors didn't have to deal with. The short of it is that they are far more complicated. I think it makes trying (at least for me) challenging to really know everything that is going on during a break in. Hence, do your research & make your choice. It is a Dodge, manifold & lifter issues and all. I'm still glad to be greeted by my Longhorn interior every time I get in it. And, I've been a Toyota guy for years. The Ram looks like a truck should. They always have!

I wonder what people with mechanical experience have to say about trying to re-shoe an old horse when you basically need a new horse to get the numbers you "need". My 5.7L MDS VVT e-Torque has a lot of torque and power. Yet, she isn't my old 360 (5.92L), she isn't as smooth or mechanically simple. I think there may be a break-in point there (maybe).

They cut the displacement, added a lot of technology, and are trying to deliver the best numbers they can, and I think they have done pretty good. But, I'm a Ram guy, so I'm also biased from the start and I'm no engineer or gear head.

What do the gear heads say? Maybe that's a different thread.
 
Well when I picked up my rebel this past Saturday, had no choice but to drive 50 miles ( mostly highway) miles home. Nothing more than 3k rpms. I babied it a little, driving at a constant 60-65mph. 2 days later, I Had to make another round trip to the dealer, and put 200 miles on it, in the first 3 days…lol.

Now that it’s broken in a little, I’m going to rev it up just a little more.


2021 Ram Rebel
2016 Dodge Charger scat pack
2021 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara (wife)
 

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