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Hollow sounding drivers side rear door

Tones1975

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Just wondering if anyone else has a hollow sound when they close the rear doors? My drivers rear crew cab door sounds hollow compared to the passenger side rear when I close them. I'm hoping there's a solution as it really bothers me when I close it. I tried to post a short video of the two rear doors closing but I'm not sure how. It will upload but then says "The uploaded file does not have an allowed extension". Maybe someone can tell me how to post the video. Thanks. Also, my truck is a 2019 rebel crew cab.
 
Same here. Seems like it's on both sides. I'm always double checking to make sure that the doors close because it doesn't sound like it closed. Big **** truck.... you want a confident thud when closing a door!!
 
It's because they're hollow.
Funny stuff. Lol. My issue is that the one door sounds substantially different than the other 3 when slamming it closed; which makes me wonder why that is. The sound in the video clip that I can't seem to post would convey this alot better than my hollow description. Haha
 
Took it to the dealer today and they tell me that Ram is aware of it but they don't have a fix. They seem to think it's the latch and its lack of adjustability.
 
I had noticed the difference, but I thought it was more generally front vs rear noise. I use the drivers rear door more than the passenger, but I was chalking this up to less sound deadening than the fronts. I was planning to just have the rear doors dynamatted sometime soon, but it would be great if FCA had a fix... though I’m not holding my breath. :)
 
I had noticed the difference, but I thought it was more generally front vs rear noise. I use the drivers rear door more than the passenger, but I was chalking this up to less sound deadening than the fronts. I was planning to just have the rear doors dynamatted sometime soon, but it would be great if FCA had a fix... though I’m not holding my breath. :)
Yeah I'm definitely not holding my breath either. I was actually told by the service tech at my dealership that FCA has bigger issues to find solutions to and that this is prob not high on the priority list. I may actually take the truck into a body shop and see if they are able to give me an idea of what could be done to fix this problem.
 
Thats a pretty shítty answer, customer service-wise. “Hoo boy <mopping forehead sweat> we have got bigger fish to fry than that pal!” Cool cool cool.. :)

I’d be curious to hear what the body shop says, but unless theres something mechanically loose and banging around, I dont know what they'd suggest beyond having the door lined with dynamat. Wouldn’t be too expensive of a job, I wouldn't think?
 
Thats a pretty shítty answer, customer service-wise. “Hoo boy <mopping forehead sweat> we have got bigger fish to fry than that pal!” Cool cool cool.. :)

I’d be curious to hear what the body shop says, but unless theres something mechanically loose and banging around, I dont know what they'd suggest beyond having the door lined with dynamat. Wouldn’t be too expensive of a job, I wouldn't think?
My door actually sounds like it could be a door latch adjustment issue. The more I listen to it, the more it sounds like the latch closing and then rebounding back on the striker. This rebound might be causing that hollow sound. Just my thoughts on it. I will definitely post after I speak with a body shop. My hope is that they will have a way to adjust the latch that the dealer is unwilling to do or unaware of.
 
My door actually sounds like it could be a door latch adjustment issue. The more I listen to it, the more it sounds like the latch closing and then rebounding back on the striker. This rebound might be causing that hollow sound. Just my thoughts on it. I will definitely post after I speak with a body shop. My hope is that they will have a way to adjust the latch that the dealer is unwilling to do or unaware of.


on my 19 crew cab I had the same problem, the dealer adjusted the rear doors and it helped but didn't completely solve the issue. I've just learned to live with it.
 
I can't figure out from the thread what the problem is. You say it sounds hollow when you close the door, but is that it? Is the door rattling? Is wind noise coming in around it as if it's not closed? As far as I can tell, the only problem seems to be that you want a satisfying "thunk" when you close the door and you don't get that. How is that something a dealer could fix?
 
I can't figure out from the thread what the problem is. You say it sounds hollow when you close the door, but is that it? Is the door rattling? Is wind noise coming in around it as if it's not closed? As far as I can tell, the only problem seems to be that you want a satisfying "thunk" when you close the door and you don't get that. How is that something a dealer could fix?
The problem is that it sounds loose or something. There is no wind noise and yes I do want a satisfying thump from the door; same thump I get out of my passenger side rear door. My problem is that one sounds substantially different than the other which makes me want to know why? Almost sounds like it rattles on the door in question when it closes. Does anyone know how I can post the mp4 video file I have? Would explain exactly what I'm talking about.
 
I didn't mind it when I noticed, but glad to know I'm not too crazy. I thought I was the only one who noticed.
 
I have noticed both my rear doors don’t have that “thud” confirmation that the front doors do but I’m not bothered by it. My guess is since the front door glass is laminated (not sure about the rear door glass) that may be why they seem to close better (extra weight?) and also I’m thinking it’s because the rear cab wall has those little air vent openings, which helps air escape when closing the doors if I’m not mistaken.
 
I believe the problem is the door outer sheet metal stamping vibrates when the door hits the body and latches. Put your hand in the middle of the area below the window, and keep it pressed there as you close the door - does it sound different? Mine does.

I'm guessing a design oversight, and hoping something like Dynamat Extreme fixes it.

My 1990's Sears washing machine has a special 'sound pak' option, which turned out to be rubber mats glued to the inside of the sheet metal box that is the washing machine. Makes a big difference: the panels don't vibrate when the laundry isn't perfectly balanced - thus my unjustified optimism such a fix will work.
 
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I believe the problem is the door outer sheet metal stamping vibrates when the door hits the body and latches. Put your hand in the middle of the area below the window, and keep it pressed there as you close the door - does it sound different? Mine does.

I'm guessing a design oversight, and hoping something like Dynamat Extreme fixes it.

My 1990's Sears washing machine has a special 'sound pak' option, which turned out to be rubber mats glued to the inside of the sheet metal box that is the washing machine. Made a big difference: the panels didn't vibrate when the laundry isn't perfectly balanced - thus my unjustified optimism such a fix will work.
This sounds totally plausible, and if that's the case Dynamat will absolutely fix that. An easy solution!
 
I don’t have a problem with my RAM but when I installed a new system in my 300, I used Dynomat Extreme on the whole interior. I also added it to the inside of the outer door skins. They close with a nice solid thunk now. I’m considering doing it to the truck too.
 
I don’t have a problem with my RAM but when I installed a new system in my 300, I used Dynomat Extreme on the whole interior. I also added it to the inside of the outer door skins. They close with a nice solid thunk now. I’m considering doing it to the truck too.
Wonder if we can get a group buy organized . . .
 

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