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Help! Over my Head with Suspension Lift

00fil00

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Hi guys,

I've tried researching my build for a year and finally decided if I don't pull the trigger It'll never happen..I have purchased the following parts for my 2021 Ram 1500 sport:

4x Nitto Ridge Grappler 305/55R20 1160 tires onto 4x 20"x10" -18 offset Fuel Vapor alloys.
4x shocks:
-2x Bilstein B8 5160 rear shocks
--25-316919 (rear right)
--25-325102 (rear left)
2x Bilstein B8 6112 front shocks

All I am trying to achieve is a new look with rims and tires, level the truck 2" at the front, and keeping as much of the dynamics as possible (noise, ride quality). I was told that the Bilsteins would achieve this the best and reduce bouncing at the front end to boot.

I went to get quotes from multiple autoshops to install these parts and literally every shop is tearing me apart. I am terrified I made a massive and costly mistake. Here is what the install shops are saying, can I get your input on these?

1) "that's a strange rim/tire offset, where did you get the idea for this from? It could cause problems. It will stick out 2". - I researched builds on forums that had the same setup and I liked the rim look. They said it didn't rub for them.

2) "The bilsteins will make the ride much harder, don't complain to us after." - I was told paying for proper strut suspension rather than taking the cheap route with a puck lift would make the suspension better?

3) "Using the bilsteins 6112 to achieve 2" lift will make a very harsh ride. You need to also purchase a lift puck to take compression off the spring to reduce ride hardness" - I thought the 6112 kit came with a custom spring for this reason?? Should I return the bilsteins and just use a puck? I wanted to improve the ride as much as possible to compensate for aggressive tires but the mechanic says the ride quality would be BETTER with OEM suspension and 2" puck lift compared with using bilsteins.

4) "you also need a new tire pressure sensor which the dealer may need to reprogram". - 90% of shops didn't mentioned this before giving quotes out.

5) do I need a new UCA? This hasn't come up from any of the shops but I read it here. I'm so confused with all the parts I need and what combination simply to achieve a 2" lift with good ride quality. Is the UCA instead of a 2" puck ie. they will do the same job? What size of UCA do I need? If I get this do I return the bilsteins?

6) Any advice on what I need to achieve my stated goals? I can't see past the snake oil and shop opinions. I don't understand the point of the bilsteins if I STILL need a puck in combination to lift as well. Should I just return them?

Please guide me before I take the truck in.
 

HSKR R/T

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Hi guys,

I've tried researching my build for a year and finally decided if I don't pull the trigger It'll never happen..I have purchased the following parts for my 2021 Ram 1500 sport:

4x Nitto Ridge Grappler 305/55R20 1160 tires onto 4x 20"x10" -18 offset Fuel Vapor alloys.
4x shocks:
-2x Bilstein B8 5160 rear shocks
--25-316919 (rear right)
--25-325102 (rear left)
2x Bilstein B8 6112 front shocks

All I am trying to achieve is a new look with rims and tires, level the truck 2" at the front, and keeping as much of the dynamics as possible (noise, ride quality). I was told that the Bilsteins would achieve this the best and reduce bouncing at the front end to boot.

I went to get quotes from multiple autoshops to install these parts and literally every shop is tearing me apart. I am terrified I made a massive and costly mistake. Here is what the install shops are saying, can I get your input on these?

1) "that's a strange rim/tire offset, where did you get the idea for this from? It could cause problems. It will stick out 2". - I researched builds on forums that had the same setup and I liked the rim look. They said it didn't rub for them.

Just because they think it's strange, if it's the look you are going for, ignore this shop.

2) "The bilsteins will make the ride much harder, don't complain to us after." - I was told paying for proper strut suspension rather than taking the cheap route with a puck lift would make the suspension better?
Stay away from this shop, they just want you to buy cheap **** from them and will charge you a premium for them

3) "Using the bilsteins 6112 to achieve 2" lift will make a very harsh ride. You need to also purchase a lift puck to take compression off the spring to reduce ride hardness" - I thought the 6112 kit came with a custom spring for this reason?? Should I return the bilsteins and just use a puck? I wanted to improve the ride as much as possible to compensate for aggressive tires but the mechanic says the ride quality would be BETTER with OEM suspension and 2" puck lift compared with using bilsteins.

See above response. Stay away from this shop as well
4) "you also need a new tire pressure sensor which the dealer may need to reprogram". - 90% of shops didn't mentioned this before giving quotes out.

Tire pressure sensors are cheap and whatever tire shop you have install the tires should be able to supply some that will work
5) do I need a new UCA? This hasn't come up from any of the shops but I read it here. I'm so confused with all the parts I need and what combination simply to achieve a 2" lift with good ride quality. Is the UCA instead of a 2" puck ie. they will do the same job? What size of UCA do I need? If I get this do I return the bilsteins?

For 2" level, not needed
6) Any advice on what I need to achieve my stated goals? I can't see past the snake oil and shop opinions. I don't understand the point of the bilsteins if I STILL need a puck in combination to lift as well. Should I just return them?

Please guide me before I take the truck in.
 
Last edited:

00fil00

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Thank you kindly for the response. So should I sell the bilsteins ($2000) and just install a 2" readylift level kit ($600), or a spacer puck ($100)? Is there ANY advantage to the suspension in keeping a quality ride? Could you briefly explain the advantages/disadvantages for these 3 options please?

Thank you so much for your time and effort.
 

H2OMAN

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You should keep the Bilsteins. They will improve your ride. You can get 2.6 inches of lift in the front with them. NO PUCKS. Pucks will not improve your ride. Take it to an off road shop where they won't say idiotic things like this. If you are going to offroad you may or may not need UCA's. You should be able to get a good alignment but you may limit your travel which could do damage. If you have the money get the UCA's. When you are done I promise you will not regret your decisions on this.
 

CalvinC

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Your story reflects what is anymore such a common struggle to find a decent, knowledgeable shop. They are all just parts installers & changers.
HSKR R/T's points all gold.
 

Bt10

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Just want to throw in here the Mopar lift UCAs are $50 apiece.
 

MikeyHo808

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I just swapped my 5100’s in front for a set of 6112’s set to 8 (2 inches) along with some Icon 1.5 inch rear springs to go with the 5100 0-2 inch rear shocks. I also have Ready Lift UCA’s. I had my 5100’s set on ring 4, so I gain about half an inch front to back with this new setup. I did have about 1/2 inch of rake, but am pretty level now (2” front, 1.5” back).
4 Wheel parts did the work, and aligned it with no issues. Truck rides so much better. Put a few miles on it already, but what a difference the new springs have made. My 22’s soak up the road much better, and a lot less bounce now.
Can’t wait to get bigger meats, but just dumped another 2k+ into the truck over the last two months. Gonna have to pause a bit and reload.

You will be fine with what you are about to run, and should be very happy with your new set up. Shops are probably giving you grief because you didn’t buy it from them. Find one that you feel comfortable with and trust more than the rest. Good luck👍
 

CalvinC

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Appreciate your account of the change @MikeyHo808.
Was wondering if there would be a noticeable change going from 5100 to 6112.
Question is now do I stop there, or go nuts on a King or Fox adjustable setup? I'm only after street handling and ride comfort, so those systems seem nutz for that purpose.
 

H2OMAN

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Appreciate your account of the change @MikeyHo808.
Was wondering if there would be a noticeable change going from 5100 to 6112.
Question is now do I stop there, or go nuts on a King or Fox adjustable setup? I'm only after street handling and ride comfort, so those systems seem nutz for that purpose.
Either the 6112's or the 5100's are great for the street. Digressive valving requires more inertia to begin functioning. This is often described as stiffness. But, once the oil begins to flow through the valves they work about the same. However, this "stiffness" reduces body roll which is great for cornering, towing, and hauling. Whereas linear vlaving like on Fox and King can be described as a bit squishy. It is plush offroad and King and Fox overcome with with dampening adjustability. You just have to pay for it. You'll be fine on the 6112's and you won't regret it.
 

JerryBsizzle

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Stick with what you have planned! Sounds like it will be great. Those idiots at those shops would probably do pucks with 24x14 -46 American force's and low profile tires if it was them.
 

CalvinC

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I wish I could try them all out like shoes.

I have the 5100s now on the 2nd-lowest setting and they are a dream when towing and in corners. But the small stuff, like around town driving, pot holes, expansion joints, and sectioned concrete make it ride like a dang horse buggy. To me it feels even the smallest bumps. When my kids are with me in the back they think it's hilarious on concrete highways. I do not.

That's why I was thinking of getting away from digressive valving, and only Fox and King offer linear that I know of. My thoughts were linear valving help with some of the small bump ride comfort issues, and add a Helwig to preserve some of the stability & cornering capabilities of the 5100s.

But in my pursuit for the perfect ride, I am learning more about the impact springs & spring rates have in all this. Its not as simple as lower spring rate = better impact absorption, as I had been thinking. So that's what's got me curious on the 6112's that come with a matching spring... Maybe the valving is not the issue, but the spring?

Ugh. I have no idea.

Every day I oscillate between a minor step up to the 6112s, major step to Fox/King, or just trading to try out Air Suspension.

Sorry to hijack OP's thread. But wish there were shops or providers out there who could help. All reviews of every product can simply be summarized as "Rides much better!" without specific details. And Shops just want to either install what they sell or install what's easiest. Accutune has been super responsive and helpful, pretty sure they can solve the issues, just a matter of whether I make that leap for Foxs.
 

HSKR R/T

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I wish I could try them all out like shoes.

I have the 5100s now on the 2nd-lowest setting and they are a dream when towing and in corners. But the small stuff, like around town driving, pot holes, expansion joints, and sectioned concrete make it ride like a dang horse buggy. To me it feels even the smallest bumps. When my kids are with me in the back they think it's hilarious on concrete highways. I do not.

That's why I was thinking of getting away from digressive valving, and only Fox and King offer linear that I know of. My thoughts were linear valving help with some of the small bump ride comfort issues, and add a Helwig to preserve some of the stability & cornering capabilities of the 5100s.

But in my pursuit for the perfect ride, I am learning more about the impact springs & spring rates have in all this. Its not as simple as lower spring rate = better impact absorption, as I had been thinking. So that's what's got me curious on the 6112's that come with a matching spring... Maybe the valving is not the issue, but the spring?

Ugh. I have no idea.

Every day I oscillate between a minor step up to the 6112s, major step to Fox/King, or just trading to try out Air Suspension.

Sorry to hijack OP's thread. But wish there were shops or providers out there who could help. All reviews of every product can simply be summarized as "Rides much better!" without specific details. And Shops just want to either install what they sell or install what's easiest. Accutune has been super responsive and helpful, pretty sure they can solve the issues, just a matter of whether I make that leap for Foxs.
You also have to realize, ride quality is subjective and your wheel/tire set up plays just as much, if not more of, a role in ride quality as the suspension.

If you just want s little softer ride over smaller bumps, try lowering your tire pressures 5-10psi and see how it feels
 

Bionicbo

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Hi guys,

I've tried researching my build for a year and finally decided if I don't pull the trigger It'll never happen..I have purchased the following parts for my 2021 Ram 1500 sport:

4x Nitto Ridge Grappler 305/55R20 1160 tires onto 4x 20"x10" -18 offset Fuel Vapor alloys.
4x shocks:
-2x Bilstein B8 5160 rear shocks
--25-316919 (rear right)
--25-325102 (rear left)
2x Bilstein B8 6112 front shocks

All I am trying to achieve is a new look with rims and tires, level the truck 2" at the front, and keeping as much of the dynamics as possible (noise, ride quality). I was told that the Bilsteins would achieve this the best and reduce bouncing at the front end to boot.

I went to get quotes from multiple autoshops to install these parts and literally every shop is tearing me apart. I am terrified I made a massive and costly mistake. Here is what the install shops are saying, can I get your input on these?

1) "that's a strange rim/tire offset, where did you get the idea for this from? It could cause problems. It will stick out 2". - I researched builds on forums that had the same setup and I liked the rim look. They said it didn't rub for them.

2) "The bilsteins will make the ride much harder, don't complain to us after." - I was told paying for proper strut suspension rather than taking the cheap route with a puck lift would make the suspension better?

3) "Using the bilsteins 6112 to achieve 2" lift will make a very harsh ride. You need to also purchase a lift puck to take compression off the spring to reduce ride hardness" - I thought the 6112 kit came with a custom spring for this reason?? Should I return the bilsteins and just use a puck? I wanted to improve the ride as much as possible to compensate for aggressive tires but the mechanic says the ride quality would be BETTER with OEM suspension and 2" puck lift compared with using bilsteins.

4) "you also need a new tire pressure sensor which the dealer may need to reprogram". - 90% of shops didn't mentioned this before giving quotes out.

5) do I need a new UCA? This hasn't come up from any of the shops but I read it here. I'm so confused with all the parts I need and what combination simply to achieve a 2" lift with good ride quality. Is the UCA instead of a 2" puck ie. they will do the same job? What size of UCA do I need? If I get this do I return the bilsteins?

6) Any advice on what I need to achieve my stated goals? I can't see past the snake oil and shop opinions. I don't understand the point of the bilsteins if I STILL need a puck in combination to lift as well. Should I just return them?

Please guide me before I take the truck in.
I can only give my opinion on a couple of your issues...

You'll have quite a bit of poke running the -18, I'm running 0 offset with the same tires and have 3/4 inch poke so add another 3/4 on tip of that, so you'll be 1.5" +/- and I have stock front end (I did a reverse level) with no rubbing issues what so ever..

As far as the TPMS, you don't need to reprogram, the trucks, system does it itself, the first time you put them on it make take 50 miles or so but it will calibrate it self, even when rotating tires..I run winter wheels and tires and summer wheels and tires, a drive around the block has them calibrated
 

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