Finished Build: 2021 RAM 1500 ORP Suspension, Tires & Wheels

[GENX KID]

I recently finished the suspension lift and tire/wheel upgrade on my truck. I wanted to share the details of the process, what worked and what didn't, that might help other members make decisions with the investment of their future truck build. I gained a lot of information on this topic from other members on this site, so I felt obligated to pay it forward. In today's economy nothing is cheap, especially if you want to utilize quality, mid-grade suspension parts and totally avoid the cheapest route to take. Keep in mind during this thread that my truck is used lightly for daily city driving, highway/interstate traveling, boat and buggy towing, occasional off-road driving on Florida sand roads/trails (my Beast Buggy is used for anything more extreme). If you want to run a hard-core off-road truck, this thread is obviously not intended for you. It is important to note that my truck has the factory "Off Road Package". All suspension parts used were intended to work for ORP trucks.

My goals were:
- run 35X12.50 tires on 20X9 wheels
- keep a quality street ride (as close to factory as possible)
- keep the original front suspension crossmember and related components
- stiffen the rear suspension for better towing performance
- have no tire clearance issues withing the front fender wells
- have between a 1" rake (for towing) and a leveled truck
- be able to park the truck in a typical 7ft tall garage door

Suspension lift components:
Front suspension
- Bilstein 5100 strut shocks (2” lift)
- Motofab top hat spacers (1/2” lift)
- Rough Country upper control arms

Rear suspension
- Icon dual-rate coil springs (1” lift)
- Motofab coil spring spacers (1” lift)
- Bilstein 5100 shocks

Wheels: Fuel, Ammo 20X9 6X5.5 +1 offset
Tires: Toyo, Open Country RT Trail 35X12.50-20

Results
Did I meet all of my goals? All but one! It rides great, tows better, sits dead level and I can still park it in my garage (the cab and roof antennae barely clear by about 1 inch, but it does clear) The one goal that fell short was clearance, the one small issue that bugs about all of us with lifted 5th gen RAMs. The dreaded factory front mud flaps are evidently a curse. I have slight tire contact here when the front suspension is canted or when in reverse in a tight turn (I have yet to find a mud flap solution that will maintain a factory look without removing or cutting it) Also, the flimsy front wheel liner (toward the front of the tire, at the bottom edge near the center) made contact with the tire at full turn. This issue was solved with using a plastic push retainer (8.5mm) and zip ties. The addition of the push retainer inside the wheel well (used as anchor points for the zip ties) gives a clean appearance that looks like a factory install.

Lift Height (measured from wheel hub center to the top center of the fender well lip)
- the truck height with stock suspension sat a 22.5" front and 23.5 " rear
- the lifted truck height now sits at 25.5" front and 25.5" rear
- total lift was +3" front and +2" rear

I was surprised to see that the front end was .5" higher than anticipated. I have driven the truck almost 100 miles and it still sits the same height of 25.5". The truck sits dead level (note: The truck bed has some weight additional weight that is present 24/7. The Retrax cover, Go Rhino racks, as well as gear inside the bed. This weight compresses the coils springs roughly .5")

Conclusion
It was definitely a fun project, and I am incredibly happy with the results. Now I will focus on some smaller details such as adding step boards, removing chrome emblems and replacing them with black ones. I hope someone will find a few ideas in this thread that will help them with decisions that will work for them on their RAM ORP truck project. God bless and pray for our Country.

​

 

[Fbird]

Sweet....I am doing very similar with my ORP Big Horn. Sapcers front and rear with UCA's and +2" shocks on rear. Not wanting crazy stuff but enough for the 35's. If the future use on camping trails dictates i need MORE...THEN i'll cut stuff and go MORE!

 

[Fbird]

Finished up everything. Came out OK. I don't like the wheels i chose as I thought i was going to have white letter tires....well BFG does not do white letters anymore so the wheels need some machined area to look better ..I THINK.
2.5" rear
2.5" front
RC UCA's
RC rear shocks.
After removing one of my FACTORY shocks i discovered the RC's were the exact same length??? but the RC's are for 0-3.5" LIFTED???
Wheels: Vision Wheel 415-20083SB-25 Vision Off-Road 415 Bomb Series Satin Black Wheels | Summit Racing
BFG 35 x 12.5 x 20 AT K02


Only slight rubbing on the plastic inner fenders soved with my torch and a piece of wool to re-shape them a little.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I recently finished the suspension lift and tire/wheel upgrade on my truck. I wanted to share the details of the process, what worked and what didn't, that might help other members make decisions with the investment of their future truck build. I gained a lot of information on this topic from other members on this site, so I felt obligated to pay it forward. In today's economy nothing is cheap, especially if you want to utilize quality, mid-grade suspension parts and totally avoid the cheapest route to take. Keep in mind during this thread that my truck is used lightly for daily city driving, highway/interstate traveling, boat and buggy towing, occasional off-road driving on Florida sand roads/trails (my Beast Buggy is used for anything more extreme). If you want to run a hard-core off-road truck, this thread is obviously not intended for you. It is important to note that my truck has the factory "Off Road Package". All suspension parts used were intended to work for ORP trucks.

My goals were:
- run 35X12.50 tires on 20X9 wheels
- keep a quality street ride (as close to factory as possible)
- keep the original front suspension crossmember and related components
- stiffen the rear suspension for better towing performance
- have no tire clearance issues withing the front fender wells
- have between a 1" rake (for towing) and a leveled truck
- be able to park the truck in a typical 7ft tall garage door

Suspension lift components:
Front suspension
- Bilstein 5100 strut shocks (2” lift)
- Motofab top hat spacers (1/2” lift)
- Rough Country upper control arms

Rear suspension
- Icon dual-rate coil springs (1” lift)
- Motofab coil spring spacers (1” lift)
- Bilstein 5100 shocks

Wheels: Fuel, Ammo 20X9 6X5.5 +1 offset
Tires: Toyo, Open Country RT Trail 35X12.50-20

Results
Did I meet all of my goals? All but one! It rides great, tows better, sits dead level and I can still park it in my garage (the cab and roof antennae barely clear by about 1 inch, but it does clear) The one goal that fell short was clearance, the one small issue that bugs about all of us with lifted 5th gen RAMs. The dreaded factory front mud flaps are evidently a curse. I have slight tire contact here when the front suspension is canted or when in reverse in a tight turn (I have yet to find a mud flap solution that will maintain a factory look without removing or cutting it) Also, the flimsy front wheel liner (toward the front of the tire, at the bottom edge near the center) made contact with the tire at full turn. This issue was solved with using a plastic push retainer (8.5mm) and zip ties. The addition of the push retainer inside the wheel well (used as anchor points for the zip ties) gives a clean appearance that looks like a factory install.

Lift Height (measured from wheel hub center to the top center of the fender well lip)
- the truck height with stock suspension sat a 22.5" front and 23.5 " rear
- the lifted truck height now sits at 25.5" front and 25.5" rear
- total lift was +3" front and +2" rear

I was surprised to see that the front end was .5" higher than anticipated. I have driven the truck almost 100 miles and it still sits the same height of 25.5". The truck sits dead level (note: The truck bed has some weight additional weight that is present 24/7. The Retrax cover, Go Rhino racks, as well as gear inside the bed. This weight compresses the coils springs roughly .5")

Conclusion
It was definitely a fun project, and I am incredibly happy with the results. Now I will focus on some smaller details such as adding step boards, removing chrome emblems and replacing them with black ones. I hope someone will find a few ideas in this thread that will help them with decisions that will work for them on their RAM ORP truck project. God bless and pray for our Country.

​

One question. Why didn't you just use a different clip setting on the 5100's in front vs a top hat spacer?

 

[H2OMAN]

One question. Why didn't you just use a different clip setting on the 5100's in front vs a top hat spacer?

It's a good question.

 

[Beardslow]

So I'm looking at doing something similar on my '21 Rebel, Bilstein 6112 struts & springs fronts (set to 8 for 2" lift) and 5160 rears and some UCAs but had a question on the springs. I also tow a 10K lb RV and want to keep some rake in the truck. I've been on ICONs web site for the 1.5" springs but they say they are for 2009+. What part number springs did you use and/or would the 1.5" springs from 2009+ (part number 212150) work on a 2021 rebel and keep a slight rake? PFA Thanks in advance.

 

[Slutzk]

I recently finished the suspension lift and tire/wheel upgrade on my truck. I wanted to share the details of the process, what worked and what didn't, that might help other members make decisions with the investment of their future truck build. I gained a lot of information on this topic from other members on this site, so I felt obligated to pay it forward. In today's economy nothing is cheap, especially if you want to utilize quality, mid-grade suspension parts and totally avoid the cheapest route to take. Keep in mind during this thread that my truck is used lightly for daily city driving, highway/interstate traveling, boat and buggy towing, occasional off-road driving on Florida sand roads/trails (my Beast Buggy is used for anything more extreme). If you want to run a hard-core off-road truck, this thread is obviously not intended for you. It is important to note that my truck has the factory "Off Road Package". All suspension parts used were intended to work for ORP trucks.

My goals were:
- run 35X12.50 tires on 20X9 wheels
- keep a quality street ride (as close to factory as possible)
- keep the original front suspension crossmember and related components
- stiffen the rear suspension for better towing performance
- have no tire clearance issues withing the front fender wells
- have between a 1" rake (for towing) and a leveled truck
- be able to park the truck in a typical 7ft tall garage door

Suspension lift components:
Front suspension
- Bilstein 5100 strut shocks (2” lift)
- Motofab top hat spacers (1/2” lift)
- Rough Country upper control arms

Rear suspension
- Icon dual-rate coil springs (1” lift)
- Motofab coil spring spacers (1” lift)
- Bilstein 5100 shocks

Wheels: Fuel, Ammo 20X9 6X5.5 +1 offset
Tires: Toyo, Open Country RT Trail 35X12.50-20

Results
Did I meet all of my goals? All but one! It rides great, tows better, sits dead level and I can still park it in my garage (the cab and roof antennae barely clear by about 1 inch, but it does clear) The one goal that fell short was clearance, the one small issue that bugs about all of us with lifted 5th gen RAMs. The dreaded factory front mud flaps are evidently a curse. I have slight tire contact here when the front suspension is canted or when in reverse in a tight turn (I have yet to find a mud flap solution that will maintain a factory look without removing or cutting it) Also, the flimsy front wheel liner (toward the front of the tire, at the bottom edge near the center) made contact with the tire at full turn. This issue was solved with using a plastic push retainer (8.5mm) and zip ties. The addition of the push retainer inside the wheel well (used as anchor points for the zip ties) gives a clean appearance that looks like a factory install.

Lift Height (measured from wheel hub center to the top center of the fender well lip)
- the truck height with stock suspension sat a 22.5" front and 23.5 " rear
- the lifted truck height now sits at 25.5" front and 25.5" rear
- total lift was +3" front and +2" rear

I was surprised to see that the front end was .5" higher than anticipated. I have driven the truck almost 100 miles and it still sits the same height of 25.5". The truck sits dead level (note: The truck bed has some weight additional weight that is present 24/7. The Retrax cover, Go Rhino racks, as well as gear inside the bed. This weight compresses the coils springs roughly .5")

Conclusion
It was definitely a fun project, and I am incredibly happy with the results. Now I will focus on some smaller details such as adding step boards, removing chrome emblems and replacing them with black ones. I hope someone will find a few ideas in this thread that will help them with decisions that will work for them on their RAM ORP truck project. God bless and pray for our Country.

​

why even use the top hat spacer?

 

[Fbird]

why even use the top hat spacer?

spacers increase the HEIGHT ONLY. Raising the "clip" raises the HEIGHT by INCREASING the spring pre-load. (= harsher ride)

 

[H2OMAN]

spacers increase the HEIGHT ONLY. Raising the "clip" raises the HEIGHT by INCREASING the spring pre-load. (= harsher ride)

The shocks for which you raise, "the HEIGHT by INCREASING the spring pre-load" are designed, and valved to handle the increased height. They ride better not worse. Adding spacers to your ride height shocks is not smart, and not necessary.

 

[Slutzk]

spacers increase the HEIGHT ONLY. Raising the "clip" raises the HEIGHT by INCREASING the spring pre-load. (= harsher ride)

Wrong.
Also as @H2OMAN said, adding spacers isnt smart and cheap way of doing things. Most of all adding a top hat WILL decrease your ride quality. especially over time.

 

[Fbird]

spacers will change the ride quality SOME but only due to the change in the control arm angle. SPRING rate does BOTH rasies the truck (via the increased spring rate prevents the lower control from compressing upward as much....hence same control arm angle change) AND is also stiffer. (due to increased spring pre load) Smart is an opion. Effective is a fact. Due to the geometry of how suspensions work (swing around a pivot point creating an ARC of movement) one must not move TOO far from the arc centerline or you will suffer severe changes in both ride quality and safety/longevity of components. The ONLY effective method of raising the truck with the LEAST affect on ride quality would be a body lift. (not talking about autocrossing here)

 

[HSKR R/T]

spacers will change the ride quality SOME but only due to the change in the control arm angle. SPRING rate does BOTH rasies the truck (via the increased spring rate prevents the lower control from compressing upward as much....hence same control arm angle change) AND is also stiffer. (due to increased spring pre load) Smart is an opion. Effective is a fact. Due to the geometry of how suspensions work (swing around a pivot point creating an ARC of movement) one must not move TOO far from the arc centerline or you will suffer severe changes in both ride quality and safety/longevity of components. The ONLY effective method of raising the truck with the LEAST affect on ride quality would be a body lift. (not talking about autocrossing here)

Body lift would have just as much effect on ride quality hy changing the center of gravity. Just depends on what you are wanting for ride quality. Me personally, I enjoy s stiffer suspension and feel it "rides" better

 

[Slutzk]

spacers will change the ride quality SOME but only due to the change in the control arm angle. SPRING rate does BOTH rasies the truck (via the increased spring rate prevents the lower control from compressing upward as much....hence same control arm angle change) AND is also stiffer. (due to increased spring pre load) Smart is an opion. Effective is a fact. Due to the geometry of how suspensions work (swing around a pivot point creating an ARC of movement) one must not move TOO far from the arc centerline or you will suffer severe changes in both ride quality and safety/longevity of components. The ONLY effective method of raising the truck with the LEAST affect on ride quality would be a body lift. (not talking about autocrossing here)

wrong again.

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

I recently finished the suspension lift and tire/wheel upgrade on my truck. I wanted to share the details of the process, what worked and what didn't, that might help other members make decisions with the investment of their future truck build. I gained a lot of information on this topic from other members on this site, so I felt obligated to pay it forward. In today's economy nothing is cheap, especially if you want to utilize quality, mid-grade suspension parts and totally avoid the cheapest route to take. Keep in mind during this thread that my truck is used lightly for daily city driving, highway/interstate traveling, boat and buggy towing, occasional off-road driving on Florida sand roads/trails (my Beast Buggy is used for anything more extreme). If you want to run a hard-core off-road truck, this thread is obviously not intended for you. It is important to note that my truck has the factory "Off Road Package". All suspension parts used were intended to work for ORP trucks.

My goals were:
- run 35X12.50 tires on 20X9 wheels
- keep a quality street ride (as close to factory as possible)
- keep the original front suspension crossmember and related components
- stiffen the rear suspension for better towing performance
- have no tire clearance issues withing the front fender wells
- have between a 1" rake (for towing) and a leveled truck
- be able to park the truck in a typical 7ft tall garage door

Suspension lift components:
Front suspension
- Bilstein 5100 strut shocks (2” lift)
- Motofab top hat spacers (1/2” lift)
- Rough Country upper control arms

Rear suspension
- Icon dual-rate coil springs (1” lift)
- Motofab coil spring spacers (1” lift)
- Bilstein 5100 shocks

Wheels: Fuel, Ammo 20X9 6X5.5 +1 offset
Tires: Toyo, Open Country RT Trail 35X12.50-20

Results
Did I meet all of my goals? All but one! It rides great, tows better, sits dead level and I can still park it in my garage (the cab and roof antennae barely clear by about 1 inch, but it does clear) The one goal that fell short was clearance, the one small issue that bugs about all of us with lifted 5th gen RAMs. The dreaded factory front mud flaps are evidently a curse. I have slight tire contact here when the front suspension is canted or when in reverse in a tight turn (I have yet to find a mud flap solution that will maintain a factory look without removing or cutting it) Also, the flimsy front wheel liner (toward the front of the tire, at the bottom edge near the center) made contact with the tire at full turn. This issue was solved with using a plastic push retainer (8.5mm) and zip ties. The addition of the push retainer inside the wheel well (used as anchor points for the zip ties) gives a clean appearance that looks like a factory install.

Lift Height (measured from wheel hub center to the top center of the fender well lip)
- the truck height with stock suspension sat a 22.5" front and 23.5 " rear
- the lifted truck height now sits at 25.5" front and 25.5" rear
- total lift was +3" front and +2" rear

I was surprised to see that the front end was .5" higher than anticipated. I have driven the truck almost 100 miles and it still sits the same height of 25.5". The truck sits dead level (note: The truck bed has some weight additional weight that is present 24/7. The Retrax cover, Go Rhino racks, as well as gear inside the bed. This weight compresses the coils springs roughly .5")

Conclusion
It was definitely a fun project, and I am incredibly happy with the results. Now I will focus on some smaller details such as adding step boards, removing chrome emblems and replacing them with black ones. I hope someone will find a few ideas in this thread that will help them with decisions that will work for them on their RAM ORP truck project. God bless and pray for our Country.

​

Thanks for sharing rig looks immaculate!

 

[Fbird]

wrong again.

can't wait to hear your thoughts of how you think suspension works.... but lets not hijack this thread instead maybe start a comprehensive thread about the engineering involved in suspension movement and how it directly affects ride quality as RAM designed it to be.

 

[Cygnus A]

Couple questions. I appreciate the effort in this post to bring everything into one spot. I love the look.

From what I understand the ORP or Rebels have a 1inch spacer to give them the factory lift. Did you discard the factory space? Or did you add additional spacers front and rear? Just really confused about what people are doing here.

So for example, you got 2" from the front Bilstein and 1/2" from the spacer = 2.5. Did you also leave the factory 1" to get a full 3.5 inch lift from a stock position?

 

[HSKR R/T]

Couple questions. I appreciate the effort in this post to bring everything into one spot. I love the look.

From what I understand the ORP or Rebels have a 1inch spacer to give them the factory lift. Did you discard the factory space? Or did you add additional spacers front and rear? Just really confused about what people are doing here.

So for example, you got 2" from the front Bilstein and 1/2" from the spacer = 2.5. Did you also leave the factory 1" to get a full 3.5 inch lift from a stock position?

The factory ORP package is taller springs, not a spacer.

 

[H2OMAN]

The factory ORP package is taller springs, not a spacer.

^^^This is correct.

 

[Fbird]

^^^ more springs on the ORP. So MOST all "lifts" are based off of NON-ORP ride hieght.
Example 3" front lift SPACER kit. On any truck you will get 3" from where it sits; HOWEVER, using a 3" lift STRUT kit will only net a 2" lift on an ORP TRUCK.
Spacers ADD to what you have! ORP or non-orp.

 

[H2OMAN]

^^^ more springs on the ORP. So MOST all "lifts" are based off of NON-ORP ride hieght.
Example 3" front lift SPACER kit. On any truck you will get 3" from where it sits; HOWEVER, using a 3" lift STRUT kit will only net a 2" lift on an ORP TRUCK.
Spacers ADD to what you have! ORP or non-orp.

Only if you reuse the orp coil. If you remove the orp strut and do not reuse the orp coil you would get a 3 inch lift.