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FAQ: How to Adjust/Remove RamBoxes

Edwards

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1. Why remove or adjust RamBoxes? Maybe the doors don't close or sit right? Maybe you need to get into this area to install modify the bed, wheel well or insert, or you are installing another custom RamBox mod? Doesn't matter. Here's an easy walkthrough.

My passenger RamBox just didn't close enough to suit me. Kind of looked like it was already open when walking up from the side. Looked all over for ways to adjust and decided it had to come out. Here's the tour:

1. From underneath near the bumper, you'll find an access hole on each side. Unclip the right, larger connector shown [EDIT the left connector is the bed light and does not need to be disconnected] (slide red tab out with screwdriver maybe 3mm and then you can access the part to push in and it will disconnect). Driver's side is a double connector as it has the AC wiring for the outlet as well. This photo is passenger side with bumper to your left. The fiber cover seen at the bottom has the air compressor above it.
20180930_133251a.jpg

2. Remove all bolts inside the RamBox including the two black ones on the latch pin (where you see two welded on nuts - but leave those alone) and two each on the outside hinges that go into the bed. All of these 8mm bolts are identical and appear to have red locktite on them.
3. With RamBox lid open and from standing inside the bed, pull up on the whole assembly by grasping the two sides of the lid. It pulls straight out. You can then set it in the bed but it will want to tip over if the lid is open. You can close the lid (you can open it via the physical key since it doesn't have power) or you can lay it on it's back in the bed and carefully let the lid open. The black top of the lid will be against your bed and not the lid paint.

Here are shots of the bed without the RamBox installed. These are all passenger side and this is looking toward the rear. No idea what the scalloped "patch" is on the left outer wall. Very hard and feels glued on.
20180930_125120.jpg

Looking down at rear. The square hole is where you disconnected the wiring from below.
20180930_125128.jpg

Looking to the front. I know some had asked about stake pockets on a RamBox. You can obviously see they are not there but you can also obviously see there is plenty of room for them should you be a better welder than I am.
20180930_125138.jpg

And front looking down.
20180930_125146.jpg

Here's the RamBox removed, back end.
20180930_125219a.jpg

From back.
20180930_125234.jpg

Least exciting, the front.
20180930_125334.jpg

And the outside where the lock is. The lock can be adjusted, just not without removing the RamBox. Not sure who designed this but by removing it, you can now access these two black bolts and there is a fair amount of free play in it. This box was adjusted all the way up leading to the "looks open" I was dealing with. I tried lowering it a few times but no dice. That led to other fun and games. See the shiny silver washer on the bottom left?
20180930_125428.jpg

Well there were two of them silicone glued to the bottom as shims.
20180930_125621.jpg

After replacing the RamBox in the bed, I was pushing down on the bottom and the left bolt hole with shim still had a little travel to hit the bed. The right one was bottomed out so I pried the washer off and what do you know, it fits far better now. I also wound up moving the adjustable latch part all the way to the bottom of travel.

After all was reinstalled, it's a tad too tight now. You really have to slam it but it looks perfect. I'm going to leave it a week or so to see if the weatherstripping gets persuaded, otherwise I'll just pop it out and readjust again.
 
Last edited:
@Edwards outstanding write-up, pictures, and descriptions! Were you able to see how the painted lid fastens under the black rail/cover? I have one that looks a little loose, seems to have a tab popped out a bit at the back end.
 
Thank you or the great post, especially taking the time to post images! Nice to see you finally have your truck too:)
 
Thanks for the very detailed write up with pictures! I love pictures :o
 
@Edwards outstanding write-up, pictures, and descriptions! Were you able to see how the painted lid fastens under the black rail/cover? I have one that looks a little loose, seems to have a tab popped out a bit at the back end.

No, didn't dig into that part.
 
My passenger RamBox just didn't close enough to suit me. Kind of looked like it was already open when walking up from the side. Looked all over for ways to adjust and decided it had to come out. Here's the tour:

1. From underneath near the bumper, you'll find an access hole on each side. Unclip the two connectors shown (slide red tab out with screwdriver maybe 3mm and then you can access the part to push in and it will disconnect). Driver's side is a double connector as it has the AC wiring for the outlet as well. This photo is passenger side with bumper to your left. The fiber cover seen at the bottom has the air compressor above it.
View attachment 5568

2. Remove all bolts inside the RamBox including the two black ones on the latch pin (where you see two welded on nuts - but leave those alone) and two each on the outside hinges that go into the bed. All of these 8mm bolts are identical and appear to have red locktite on them.
3. With RamBox lid open and from standing inside the bed, pull up on the whole assembly by grasping the two sides of the lid. It pulls straight out. You can then set it in the bed but it will want to tip over if the lid is open. You can close the lid (you can open it via the physical key since it doesn't have power) or you can lay it on it's back in the bed and carefully let the lid open. The black top of the lid will be against your bed and not the lid paint.

Here are shots of the bed without the RamBox installed. These are all passenger side and this is looking toward the rear. No idea what the scalloped "patch" is on the left outer wall. Very hard and feels glued on.
View attachment 5569

Looking down at rear. The square hole is where you disconnected the wiring from below.
View attachment 5570

Looking to the front. I know some had asked about stake pockets on a RamBox. You can obviously see they are not there but you can also obviously see there is plenty of room for them should you be a better welder than I am.
View attachment 5571

And front looking down.
View attachment 5572

Here's the RamBox removed, back end.
View attachment 5573

From back.
View attachment 5574

Least exciting, the front.
View attachment 5575

And the outside where the lock is. The lock can be adjusted, just not without removing the RamBox. Not sure who designed this but by removing it, you can now access these two black bolts and there is a fair amount of free play in it. This box was adjusted all the way up leading to the "looks open" I was dealing with. I tried lowering it a few times but no dice. That led to other fun and games. See the shiny silver washer on the bottom left?
View attachment 5576

Well there were two of them silicone glued to the bottom as shims.
View attachment 5577

After replacing the RamBox in the bed, I was pushing down on the bottom and the left bolt hole with shim still had a little travel to hit the bed. The right one was bottomed out so I pried the washer off and what do you know, it fits far better now. I also wound up moving the adjustable latch part all the way to the bottom of travel.

After all was reinstalled, it's a tad too tight now. You really have to slam it but it looks perfect. I'm going to leave it a week or so to see if the weatherstripping gets persuaded, otherwise I'll just pop it out and readjust again.
That is "WAY" over my head. Can you make a house call? I got one RamBox I would like lowered just slightly!:)
 
Update:
I edited the first post because in today's final tweaking I realized the smaller electrical connector doesn't need to be disconnected. It's the bed lighting.

The RamBox side in question was still too hard to close so I dove back in to retweak. As I became aware of my failings as a bodywork guy I realized that I'd been too focused on the up/down movement of the latch pin on the body of the RamBox. I totally removed it and saw that there are four holes through the RamBox plastic, about 1/2" in diameter. From earlier pencil markings, I saw that from the factory they'd mounted it more to the left. I checked out my driver's side and it was more to the right.
(Left/Right as you face the RamBox as you'd open it. This matters because while the RamBox's are distinct drivers/passengers side assemblies, the latches are identical and mount backwards as compared side to side, i.e. the passenger side latch is not a mirror of the drivers. It's mounted in reverse.)
I readjusted the passenger side latch assembly more to the right and what do you know? It's now a perfectly adjusted, easy to close RamBox. couldn't be happier.
 
Oh, I also weighed the RamBox removed. Right at 31 lbs. No idea what the required RamBox sheet metal weighs but figured someone would want to know.
 
Edwards - I'm trying to remove my ramboxes to see about mounting roof rack bracket before and after the ram box. I managed to undo all bolts (your instructutions were great!), and finally pull out the little red tab - but I can't seem to get the electrical connector to separate! I've tried compressing the area where the pin was, as well as just trying to pull the connector apart; nothing so far. Am I missing something, or is it just super stubborn? Thank you!
 
Figured it out - pull out the red tab, then press down just above it where the red still shows and it slides right out. Would have been easier to figure out if I could have seen the whole thing:). Hopefully this will help someone else.
 
Great instructions that allowed me to get mine out without a problem. My brand new passenger side RamBox lid was hard to close and the gap was much smaller at the rear than the front - in fact it almost rubbed together at the rear. I first tried to adjust the latch - didn't have much luck getting any adjustment there. Then I looked at the spacers on the bottom that were referenced in this thread and mine did not have any. I added a couple of washers at the rear and that helped a bit, but still didn't level it. So I decided to adjust the lid itself vs. the whole box and added a couple of washers between the hinge and the lid. That did the trick for the most part. I'm a little irritated that I had to do this as it doesn't seem like it's right, but it took care of the gap and closes much better so I guess I'll deal with it.
 
Last edited:
I need to adjust mine ,way to much effort to close them ,I need to slam them ,to get them to close
 
1. Why remove or adjust RamBoxes? Maybe the doors don't close or sit right? Maybe you need to get into this area to install modify the bed, wheel well or insert, or you are installing another custom RamBox mod? Doesn't matter. Here's an easy walkthrough.

My passenger RamBox just didn't close enough to suit me. Kind of looked like it was already open when walking up from the side. Looked all over for ways to adjust and decided it had to come out. Here's the tour:

1. From underneath near the bumper, you'll find an access hole on each side. Unclip the right, larger connector shown [EDIT the left connector is the bed light and does not need to be disconnected] (slide red tab out with screwdriver maybe 3mm and then you can access the part to push in and it will disconnect). Driver's side is a double connector as it has the AC wiring for the outlet as well. This photo is passenger side with bumper to your left. The fiber cover seen at the bottom has the air compressor above it.
View attachment 5568

2. Remove all bolts inside the RamBox including the two black ones on the latch pin (where you see two welded on nuts - but leave those alone) and two each on the outside hinges that go into the bed. All of these 8mm bolts are identical and appear to have red locktite on them.
3. With RamBox lid open and from standing inside the bed, pull up on the whole assembly by grasping the two sides of the lid. It pulls straight out. You can then set it in the bed but it will want to tip over if the lid is open. You can close the lid (you can open it via the physical key since it doesn't have power) or you can lay it on it's back in the bed and carefully let the lid open. The black top of the lid will be against your bed and not the lid paint.

Here are shots of the bed without the RamBox installed. These are all passenger side and this is looking toward the rear. No idea what the scalloped "patch" is on the left outer wall. Very hard and feels glued on.
View attachment 5569

Looking down at rear. The square hole is where you disconnected the wiring from below.
View attachment 5570

Looking to the front. I know some had asked about stake pockets on a RamBox. You can obviously see they are not there but you can also obviously see there is plenty of room for them should you be a better welder than I am.
View attachment 5571

And front looking down.
View attachment 5572

Here's the RamBox removed, back end.
View attachment 5573

From back.
View attachment 5574

Least exciting, the front.
View attachment 5575

And the outside where the lock is. The lock can be adjusted, just not without removing the RamBox. Not sure who designed this but by removing it, you can now access these two black bolts and there is a fair amount of free play in it. This box was adjusted all the way up leading to the "looks open" I was dealing with. I tried lowering it a few times but no dice. That led to other fun and games. See the shiny silver washer on the bottom left?
View attachment 5576

Well there were two of them silicone glued to the bottom as shims.
View attachment 5577

After replacing the RamBox in the bed, I was pushing down on the bottom and the left bolt hole with shim still had a little travel to hit the bed. The right one was bottomed out so I pried the washer off and what do you know, it fits far better now. I also wound up moving the adjustable latch part all the way to the bottom of travel.

After all was reinstalled, it's a tad too tight now. You really have to slam it but it looks perfect. I'm going to leave it a week or so to see if the weatherstripping gets persuaded, otherwise I'll just pop it out and readjust again.
I just bought a 2019 RAM Rebel with Ram Box....same issue...plus both boxes are slightly warped....spoke with service manager...I'm going back in Monday....we're installing new equipment at the dealership this week....I'm going to show him your excellent reverse engineering techniques....
I did discover RAM has a new vendor for the Ram Box....last one went belly-up.
My 2017 Longhorn had RAM box...seems that box was better built and worked perfectly....this new one is out of alignment plus is warped....
You saved me tons of time and now I know which direction to take on making the box's work and fit properly!
Thanks!
 
Update:
I edited the first post because in today's final tweaking I realized the smaller electrical connector doesn't need to be disconnected. It's the bed lighting.

The RamBox side in question was still too hard to close so I dove back in to retweak. As I became aware of my failings as a bodywork guy I realized that I'd been too focused on the up/down movement of the latch pin on the body of the RamBox. I totally removed it and saw that there are four holes through the RamBox plastic, about 1/2" in diameter. From earlier pencil markings, I saw that from the factory they'd mounted it more to the left. I checked out my driver's side and it was more to the right.
(Left/Right as you face the RamBox as you'd open it. This matters because while the RamBox's are distinct drivers/passengers side assemblies, the latches are identical and mount backwards as compared side to side, i.e. the passenger side latch is not a mirror of the drivers. It's mounted in reverse.)
I readjusted the passenger side latch assembly more to the right and what do you know? It's now a perfectly adjusted, easy to close RamBox. couldn't be happier.

Any pictures of how it looks adjusted? Mine look like they stick up a bit and it bugs me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Any pictures of how it looks adjusted? Mine look like they stick up a bit and it bugs me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, because they are still not perfect. The adjustment just makes them less crooked. My passenger side wasn't crooked originally, just too high on both sides. After adjustment is was virtually perfect but now after a Texas summer the top black plastic is bowing upwards on the ends and I've got no fix for that yet.

I did respond to @RamCares when they wanted extra info on the truck for this particular issue to report back which tells me that someone at Ram is at least collecting data on the issue.

My driver's side is still high on the rear but since I've got the original latch that requires full removal for adjustment I ran out of giveadamn before I got it perfect. I'll lean on the engineering excuse that it's due to the latch not being centered on the lid...
 
Figured it out - pull out the red tab, then press down just above it where the red still shows and it slides right out. Would have been easier to figure out if I could have seen the whole thing:). Hopefully this will help someone else.
Did you ever get those caps off before and after the Rambox? If so, how? Also what did you end up doing for a ladder rack?
 

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