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Exhaust Manifold Leak

Talked with the head mechanic at our dealership today. He's quite an advocate for these ceramic coated shorty headers. Only drawback is the cost up here in Canada. A good set he was saying can cost close to $2K all said and done...
 
🙋‍♂️ Were these checked when new and/or does the warp develop over time? And depending on the answer to that, is the new shape more stable than original and/or might it be better to have these machined, rather than buy new which might warp like the old ones.
They were warped as new and I didn’t think to check them since they were both new and from a reputable mfg. I made the issue apparent to AFE and they said that they would discuss with production. The warrantied headers that they sent were also warped but they were sent before my conversation with AFE. I had the new headers machined and they have not had any seating or leaking issues at the main head-side flange.

Regarding the collector out of round issue, again I didn’t think this would be a problem and didn’t think to check the diameter tolerance across the opening before I had them coated. It’s like buying a set of wheels for your truck and finding out that the lug pattern isn’t quite right and the wheel are slightly oval instead of round.
 
Talked with the head mechanic at our dealership today. He's quite an advocate for these ceramic coated shorty headers. Only drawback is the cost up here in Canada. A good set he was saying can cost close to $2K all said and done...
My current leak at the collector is probably not something most people would even notice but I want it 100% right, not 98%.

If anyone wants my old headers that have one repairable crack and need to be decked, their yours if you pay for shipping. Otherwise I’m just going to toss them in the scrap bin at work.
 
Interesting video. Ive been thinking of going this way. One problem I see is the massive difference in temperature. I know for a fact that those infrared thermometers get fooled by shiny surfaces. Flat black will be accurate but any shiny surface can be 100'F off or more. Still pretty impressive...

Also, "ceramic" coatings are mostly infrared blockers and the no-touch thermometers rely on infrared, so it's pretty certain the thermometer is lying to you in a big way.

And if you apply a bit of critical thinking, you realize there is no way a thin coating of anything is going to have a significant effect on surface temperature. Blocking IR may be useful in itself, and the coating may impart rust protection, but I say BS on the temperature reduction.

Furthermore, if the coating is really blocking all that IR, it may actually cause the tubing to get much hotter under operating conditions.
 
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Furthermore, if the coating is really blocking all that IR, it may actually cause the tubing to get much hotter under operating conditions.
It does indeed, and many thin wall tubes get brittle and disintegrate. Coatings are usually sprayed inside them electrostatically to combat that problem.
 
The tubes are coated inside and out and as I mentioned, there is a notable reduction in heat radiating from the headers that are coated vs un-coated. I have no financial interest or benefit in making supporting claims to coatings but they do make a difference.

Check out this video for a professional review: skip to 5:00

Header test
 
Also, "ceramic" coatings are mostly infrared blockers and the no-touch thermometers rely on infrared, so it's pretty certain the thermometer is lying to you in a big way.

And if you apply a bit of critical thinking, you realize there is no way a thin coating of anything is going to have a significant effect on surface temperature. Blocking IR may be useful in itself, and the coating may impart rust protection, but I say BS on the temperature reduction.

Furthermore, if the coating is really blocking all that IR, it may actually cause the tubing to get much hotter under operating conditions.
Not sure about this pal
 
The tubes are coated inside and out and as I mentioned, there is a notable reduction in heat radiating from the headers that are coated vs un-coated. I have no financial interest or benefit in making supporting claims to coatings but they do make a difference.

Check out this video for a professional review: skip to 5:00

Header test
Yeah, so the guys in the video make the same mistake trying to use an infrared thermometer to measure temperature of an object that's been coated with an infrared blocker. So any conclusions they might draw from those erroneous measurements aren't worth the electrons it took to record them. And I had a good laugh when they said they could "feel the heat". No, they can't, unless they actually touch it, which I don't recommend at all. 🔥 What they can feel from a distance is the heating effect of their skin absorbing infrared, similar to their no-touch "thermometers". Heat doesn't radiate, infrared light does. The difference may seem irrelevant, unless it leads you to believe something dangerous isn't. As an engineer, I have to know the difference, and I notice stuff like that (you're welcome). ;)

So as I said, it may be useful in and of itself to block infrared. How much of the heat transferred from hot exhaust gas to manifold (or header) is due to contact vs. how much due to the incandescence of the gas (and re-absorption of radiation by manifold)? :unsure: I don't know the answer to that, but suspect the majority is by contact. It would be interesting to test that. In either case, the coating may at least reduce under-hood temperatures by reducing transmission and re-absorption by fenders and other parts.

As to the headers themselves, my gut says if you make an accurate contact measurement of the coated header surface (with a thermocouple for example), you'll find it to be basically as hot as an uncoated header under the same conditions.

I draw no negative conclusions about the coating product, and if I ever decide to install headers may consider using it myself. Just seeking clearer understanding of what it does and doesn't do.
 
Heading in tomorrow for my 2nd round of Exhaust manifolds. First driver side and passenger side was cracked and replaced around 30k miles. Now at 44k and the tick is back and sounds like the driver and passeger side again. This is freaking insane that there are this many people having this issue and they haven't come up with a new design or TSB. Has anyone had luck after having a set replaced and not needing a second? Did I just get a 2nd bad batch?
 
Heading in tomorrow for my 2nd round of Exhaust manifolds. First driver side and passenger side was cracked and replaced around 30k miles. Now at 44k and the tick is back and sounds like the driver and passeger side again. This is freaking insane that there are this many people having this issue and they haven't come up with a new design or TSB. Has anyone had luck after having a set replaced and not needing a second? Did I just get a 2nd bad batch?
yeah the manifold and the rear window leak... fca really drop it, the manifold its been like that on previous generation too
 
yeah the manifold and the rear window leak... fca really drop it, the manifold its been like that on previous generation too
I wonder where they source the cast-iron for the Mopar Manifolds.

Does anybody know where they are produced? :unsure::unsure:

Like most things nowadays they are probably manufactured by a third party for Mopar.
 
I wonder where they source the cast-iron for the Mopar Manifolds.

Does anybody know where they are produced? :unsure::unsure:

Like most things nowadays they are probably manufactured by a third party for Mopar.
I brought mine a while back to have mine replaced, my service advisor called me and said the new ones showed up with cracks in them. They had to order another set to fix my truck.
 
took my truck in for oil change and the ambient temp sensor not working, they replaced the sensor and its still doing the same thing took it back the same day and showed them. while it was in there for the oil changed they noticed and told me that the right side exhaust manifold is leaking and they are replacing this on tuesday, and will investigate the sensor again. they think it might be a faulty new sensor. i love the truck but im1 just about over having to keep taking it in for these things.
 
Got squirrelled by a bunch of stuff. I had the exhaust manifold replaced with what the are saying is the upgraded version. Anways, we'll see.
 
It happened to the pass side of my 2011 (i miss that truck) now it seems to be the driver side of my 2019
 
2019 5.7 Hemi - On 10/12/21 at 21,500 miles, I started my truck after work and it sounded like it practically had open headers. Super loud. Dropped at the dealer and they said they had to replace an exhaust flange bolt. Sometime in 2022, probably around 26-28k miles, I could tell it had an exhaust leak and was a bit louder during cold starts. I think that's when I found this thread and assumed it was manifolds. After being lazy, or not being able to get a reasonable appointment, I finally made an appointment for yesterday about a month and a half ago. The truck is currently at 31k. They called this morning and said both manifolds are cracked AND a flange bolt needs replaced. She said the manifolds were covered under powertrain warranty, but the bolt would be $200 to replace (Bumper to bumper and emissions warranties are expired). I reminded her that they replaced an exhaust bolt in 21. She reached out to me a while later and said this one would be covered under the previous part's Mopar parts warranty. I'm not sure if it's literally the same bolt, or if she's using it to help me out. The truck is supposed to be done by the end of the day. I'm curious to see what manifolds were used..

I'm a few months behind, what are the latest correct replacement manifold numbers?
 
I have a 2020 e torque and just took it in for the unmistakable sound of an exhaust manifold leak. I have 27k miles and out of bumper to bumper, thankfully it’s covered under power train. All good except the manifolds are on back order and parts had no clue on an ETA.
 
I have a 2020 e torque and just took it in for the unmistakable sound of an exhaust manifold leak. I have 27k miles and out of bumper to bumper, thankfully it’s covered under power train. All good except the manifolds are on back order and parts had no clue on an ETA.
Same here with my '21 eTorque. Took it in yesterday for the work, but the dealer told me there are 1,900 repair sets on backorder in the system. It's going to be a couple of months, he guesses.

An aside: why does a service department not confirm the parts are on hand before the customer arrives--or check the parts availability at all?
 
Same here with my '21 eTorque. Took it in yesterday for the work, but the dealer told me there are 1,900 repair sets on backorder in the system. It's going to be a couple of months, he guesses.

An aside: why does a service department not confirm the parts are on hand before the customer arrives--or check the parts availability at all?
That way the sales department can get a chance at ya. 😆
 

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