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eTorque amperage

soSincerious

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What electrical loads do you have on the truck while seeing this voltage?

Biggest would be heated seats, heated wheel, blower motor, radio on moderate volume ...
 

Th8785

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What electrical loads do you have on the truck while seeing this voltage?

Biggest would be heated seats, heated wheel, blower motor, radio on moderate volume ...
when seeing this voltage auto headlights, hallogen. heat off seats and wheel off radsio on, volume no more than 15 as i think it sounds like trash as is.even started thinking the trucks sensor may be wrong but tested with 2 flukes and had same results. cant seem to find where to test output voltage of the dc to dc converter to see if theres a difference in voltage from the battery
 

jimchi

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When the engine is running, eTorque's motor generator unit delivers 48-volt current to a 430 watt-hour lithium-ion Nickel Manganese Cobalt (NMC)-Graphite battery. The battery pack includes a 3-kilowatt DC-to-DC converter. This holds the battery's charge and converts 48 volts to 12 volts so that power can be use to power Ram 1500's accessories and charge its conventional 12-volt lead-acid battery.
3kW / 14V = 214 amps

So the eTorque 48V to 12V DC-DC converter is about equivalent to a 200A alternator. Keep in mind that the DC-DC converter has more complex electronics than an alternator, and may not respond to higher loads in the same way an alternator would. Additionally, increased load means increased stress on those electronic components, which could in turn mean premature wear and failure. The DC-DC converter is neither as cheap nor as easy to replace as an alternator would be.

An alternative solution would be to figure out where the second alternator is installed in the snow plow package, and see if that installation can be replicated on an eTorque motor. Then run any extra equipment off the second alternator and an additional battery only.
 

Th8785

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3kW / 14V = 214 amps

So the eTorque 48V to 12V DC-DC converter is about equivalent to a 200A alternator. Keep in mind that the DC-DC converter has more complex electronics than an alternator, and may not respond to higher loads in the same way an alternator would. Additionally, increased load means increased stress on those electronic components, which could in turn mean premature wear and failure. The DC-DC converter is neither as cheap nor as easy to replace as an alternator would be.

An alternative solution would be to figure out where the second alternator is installed in the snow plow package, and see if that installation can be replicated on an eTorque motor. Then run any extra equipment off the second alternator and an additional battery only.
i had this idea myself. ran into 2 possible issues. 1 being the size of the belt would mean the alternator would need to have the pulley to match, shouldnt be a big deal at all. 2 would be possible belt slippage, which again is possible in any situation i suppose. I actually spoke to a tech last week about that possibility, and other than voiding my warranty, he said he thinks the dual alt for snowplow is only available on 2500 models. I have found brackets for a second alt on normal hemis, but it goes on drivers side so wont work with the etorque. also, 200 amps on the math makes sense, but these trucks are so electronic its hard to tell how much room there is in that figure to spare
 

Nails

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I personally have no idea. He did mention I would likely need a larger dc to dc converter to go with the h.o. generator. May look into it down the line, after factory warranty is up. One thing for sure is the h.o. unit was quoted considerably less cost than a replacement generator
 

HAL9001

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for lack of better words all this is making me lose my **** lol. Truck is now 3 weeks old, 600ish miles and batt voltage is CONSTANTLY down between 12.2 - 12.6 volts. In my mind, that is a dead battery. I personally have a couple older style load testers. Start by charging overnight, then test once reading 100%. Test reads "weak" but good. voltage was up in 13s that day while driving. Next day, cant get over 12.9. Stop by a "batteries plus" store and have them test it as well. Results were failed battery, 200 less cranking amps than minimal. Had an appointment at the dealership yesterday morning. 3 hours go by and they call me stating battery is perfectly in range and all is well. On my way home from work tonight, back to 12.4 range. I'm not physically having any troubles as of yet, but am dreading that this BRAND NEW truck cant keep a battery at what should be an acceptable voltage. Also, with no traditional alternator, does anyone know if the truck will continue to run if the battery dies while on the road?
If your battery is testing bad but the dealer won't replace it, open a case with RAMCares. Sooner or later a weak battery will leave you stranded. I had the same issue with my SUV, the dealer wouldn't replace it, and I ended up stranded in a parking lot. I purchased my own battery and opened a case with the mfgr who later reimbursed me.
 

Th8785

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If your battery is testing bad but the dealer won't replace it, open a case with RAMCares. Sooner or later a weak battery will leave you stranded. I had the same issue with my SUV, the dealer wouldn't replace it, and I ended up stranded in a parking lot. I purchased my own battery and opened a case with the mfgr who later reimbursed me.
issue being is that the dealer is testing as good...claims that batteries plus and myself tested wrong due to the way the battery is wired into the truck and the 48v in line. I have an xs power battery im borrowing from a friend to test run in the truck next week. i know its good, and it could be something between the 2 batteries in the truck not charging properly. Could also be in my head that its too low from my past experiences on what proper voltage should be. Truck is running as it should, im just concerned and am a firm believer of correcting issues when i notice them start to cause trouble as i dont want to be stranded randomly with my kids.
 

Dusty1948

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i had this idea myself. ran into 2 possible issues. 1 being the size of the belt would mean the alternator would need to have the pulley to match, shouldnt be a big deal at all. 2 would be possible belt slippage, which again is possible in any situation i suppose. I actually spoke to a tech last week about that possibility, and other than voiding my warranty, he said he thinks the dual alt for snowplow is only available on 2500 models. I have found brackets for a second alt on normal hemis, but it goes on drivers side so wont work with the etorque. also, 200 amps on the math makes sense, but these trucks are so electronic its hard to tell how much room there is in that figure to spare
I was told that with the new snow plow prep package on the 1500 there is a dual alternator option. For sure there's a dual alternator set up is available on the 2500 with a 6.4 motor. I'd be surprised if that hardware wasn't compatible with a 5.7.

Best regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 045153 miles.
 

Th8785

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I was told that with the new snow plow prep package on the 1500 there is a dual alternator option. For sure there's a dual alternator set up is available on the 2500 with a 6.4 motor. I'd be surprised if that hardware wasn't compatible with a 5.7.

Best regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 045153 miles.
dual alt brackets are obtainable, the earlier thought was can we use a bracket to add an alternator onto the etorque trucks
 

RamCares

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issue being is that the dealer is testing as good...claims that batteries plus and myself tested wrong due to the way the battery is wired into the truck and the 48v in line. I have an xs power battery im borrowing from a friend to test run in the truck next week. i know its good, and it could be something between the 2 batteries in the truck not charging properly. Could also be in my head that its too low from my past experiences on what proper voltage should be. Truck is running as it should, im just concerned and am a firm believer of correcting issues when i notice them start to cause trouble as i dont want to be stranded randomly with my kids.
We can definitely understand how this would be concerning, @Th8785. We recommend scheduling a follow up appointment with your dealer in order to ensure that all resources are exhausted when determining the cause of this concern. If needed, our team would be happy to escalate a case on your behalf. Please let us know if you would like to be connected to a specialist during your future appointment for additional support.

Kathryn
Ram Cares
 

Th8785

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We can definitely understand how this would be concerning, @Th8785. We recommend scheduling a follow up appointment with your dealer in order to ensure that all resources are exhausted when determining the cause of this concern. If needed, our team would be happy to escalate a case on your behalf. Please let us know if you would like to be connected to a specialist during your future appointment for additional support.

Kathryn
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I am planning a trip back to the dealership in the morning. I'm thinking since they say this is what it should be at, then in theory any other etorque on the lot should also be about the same? Could very well just be my thought process and not understanding the new tech in these vehicles. However, if it appears to be any different i will certainly reach out to you. Thank you for your help
 

Th8785

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Mine reads in the 14.2v + range
Thanks for the help, mine actually was around 14.4v after i left the dealership today. typically it stays much lower. They did nothing to the truck. I did speak with the tech and I still dont really i understand whats going on. Just going to go with it and assume they are correct and hope all is well. On another note i test drove another truck while i was there and really pissed myself off lol. Just gonna presume they are correct on the situation and hope that if anything is wrong the warranty takes care of it.
 

Th8785

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Next startup it was only at 13.0 again. Im over trying to understand this technology. Just gonna drive it and be happy. Hopefully I'm just completely overthinking the whole scenario. But, in case i'm not are the updates automatic or does the dealer have to program them
 

Nails

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Dealer has to ok them for a fix.... also can find the TSB on a issue and show them. Usually that will get it done.
Being in the industry, aftermarket. I personally don’t condone just flashing modules cause it says there is a update. Unless that’s the avenue of the concern/fix. With the tech out of modern vehicles you are only one flash away from whole vehicle shut down. With out solid answers your customer or manufacturer will not be fitting the bill. Manufacturer Engineer and engineer level tools and hope no module is lost.
I do give some props to fca, as they question the flash and require a answer to the reason why you are doing it(even aftermarket/non dealer). Just a few other manufacturers do this too. I see that as a good thing IMO.
 

Nickv1214

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Looking to put aftermarket amps in my 2021 Ram. I have the eTorque edition so there is no alternator. How do these vehicles deal with high amperage usage? How big of amplifiers can I put in the truck without causing problems?
I have a ETorque and been running (1)1800/1 mono kicker and a 360/4 amp on the speakers haven’t had any issues yet . I’ve been running this set up for about a year now
 

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