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eTorque amperage

SithLordTrell

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Looking to put aftermarket amps in my 2021 Ram. I have the eTorque edition so there is no alternator. How do these vehicles deal with high amperage usage? How big of amplifiers can I put in the truck without causing problems?
 

Luxy72462

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I’ll tell you right now the most voltage I see from my truck when it’s running is 12.8v unlike 13.5-14.5 with a typical alternator. As for amp output I’m not sure.


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SpeedyV

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I’ll tell you right now the most voltage I see from my truck when it’s running is 12.8v unlike 13.5-14.5 with a typical alternator. As for amp output I’m not sure.
That’s surprising. My eTorque-equipped truck charges right at 14.0 V when running down the road.

As to the OP’s question, now I’m curious about the amperage, too. According to published info:

“The battery pack includes a 3-kilowatt DC-to-DC inverter to maintain the battery’s state of charge and convert 48 volts to 12 volts to power the Ram 1500’s accessories and charge its conventional 12-volt lead-acid battery.”

I don’t know if that 3 kW is a maximum rating, but maybe it gives you a starting point.
 

EEnginerd

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That’s surprising. My eTorque-equipped truck charges right at 14.0 V when running down the road.

As to the OP’s question, now I’m curious about the amperage, too. According to published info:

“The battery pack includes a 3-kilowatt DC-to-DC inverter to maintain the battery’s state of charge and convert 48 volts to 12 volts to power the Ram 1500’s accessories and charge its conventional 12-volt lead-acid battery.”

I don’t know if that 3 kW is a maximum rating, but maybe it gives you a starting point.
I'd like to know if you could run the system directly from the battery pack! So much self-charging power!
 

BowDown

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That’s surprising. My eTorque-equipped truck charges right at 14.0 V when running down the road.

As to the OP’s question, now I’m curious about the amperage, too. According to published info:

“The battery pack includes a 3-kilowatt DC-to-DC inverter to maintain the battery’s state of charge and convert 48 volts to 12 volts to power the Ram 1500’s accessories and charge its conventional 12-volt lead-acid battery.”

I don’t know if that 3 kW is a maximum rating, but maybe it gives you a starting point.

Mine does the same 14.2-14.4 consistently
 

Th8785

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Looking to put aftermarket amps in my 2021 Ram. I have the eTorque edition so there is no alternator. How do these vehicles deal with high amperage usage? How big of amplifiers can I put in the truck without causing problems?
Did you ever find any answers to this? Recently bought one myself, trying to decide what I can safely put in it as I typically add a high output alternator to my vehicle to support my stereo system already. Not sure that would be possible with this set up
 

SithLordTrell

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Did you ever find any answers to this? Recently bought one myself, trying to decide what I can safely put in it as I typically add a high output alternator to my vehicle to support my stereo system already. Not sure that would be possible with this set up
I got some ideas from some people who suggested they could add an alternator since the motor generator users a pulley system. But I decided against that. So i'm going the battery route, Northstar AGM + a XS Titan8. They sell an under the hood version, so it's easier to find an dual battery tray than an alternator. They should cover me up to about 4000w. I think that is plenty for what I plan on putting in the truck.
 

SpeedyV

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I got some ideas from some people who suggested they could add an alternator since the motor generator users a pulley system. But I decided against that. So i'm going the battery route, Northstar AGM + a XS Titan8. They sell an under the hood version, so it's easier to find an dual battery tray than an alternator. They should cover me up to about 4000w. I think that is plenty for what I plan on putting in the truck.
If you spring for the RamAirflow intake, it’ll free up a lot of room on the passenger side for another battery.
 

Th8785

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I got some ideas from some people who suggested they could add an alternator since the motor generator users a pulley system. But I decided against that. So i'm going the battery route, Northstar AGM + a XS Titan8. They sell an under the hood version, so it's easier to find an dual battery tray than an alternator. They should cover me up to about 4000w. I think that is plenty for what I plan on putting in the truck.
I found an upgraded high output generator option. However i think im going to just add a few banks of supercaps and see how it does
 

eTorqueCoasting

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I found an upgraded high output generator option. However i think im going to just add a few banks of supercaps and see how it does
Definitely interesting. Any idea if that high output generator would provide a greater assist? Greater than the 130hp? What about for longer duration? Can we get more info about this?
 

SpeedyV

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Definitely interesting. Any idea if that high output generator would provide a greater assist? Greater than the 130hp? What about for longer duration? Can we get more info about this?
I'd like to see someone test that. The question is how much torque can be applied before you see belt slippage.
 

Th8785

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Definitely interesting. Any idea if that high output generator would provide a greater assist? Greater than the 130hp? What about for longer duration? Can we get more info about this?
I personally have no idea. He did mention I would likely need a larger dc to dc converter to go with the h.o. generator. May look into it down the line, after factory warranty is up. One thing for sure is the h.o. unit was quoted considerably less cost than a replacement generator
 

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I'd like to see someone test that. The question is how much torque can be applied before you see belt slippage.

That's where your problems are going to be. Big power supercharged guys have been fighting this for years. I'd guess 300 hp/tq would be close to maxing out the 10 rib belt. Guys running F1X's have problems with belt slip and F1X's which take about 250-300hp to turn at max boost
 

eTorqueCoasting

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I'd like to see someone test that. The question is how much torque can be applied before you see belt slippage.
I didn't give much thought to that. Harley's are powered by belts from transmission. Not sure what their tq ratings are and of course their belts are notched or "toothed" and likely wider. All and all, belts can transmit a decent amount of force.
 

Dusty1948

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I got some ideas from some people who suggested they could add an alternator since the motor generator users a pulley system. But I decided against that. So i'm going the battery route, Northstar AGM + a XS Titan8. They sell an under the hood version, so it's easier to find an dual battery tray than an alternator. They should cover me up to about 4000w. I think that is plenty for what I plan on putting in the truck.
The standard alternator on a Ram 1500 for the past few years has been a 180 ampere unit. There is a 200 ampere available, at least in the parts book. This past summer I did see a dual alternator setup from the factory, but that may have been on a Ram 2500. The factory recently added a plow package for the 1500 which includes a dual alternator package. Not sure what would be involved in converting yours.

However, I think adding a second battery would be a far cheaper endeavor. Finding space under the hood for an extra battery tray and battery might be the challenge.

Best regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 044835 miles.
 

Th8785

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My new 2021 seems to be consistent between 13.8 and 14.2.
for lack of better words all this is making me lose my **** lol. Truck is now 3 weeks old, 600ish miles and batt voltage is CONSTANTLY down between 12.2 - 12.6 volts. In my mind, that is a dead battery. I personally have a couple older style load testers. Start by charging overnight, then test once reading 100%. Test reads "weak" but good. voltage was up in 13s that day while driving. Next day, cant get over 12.9. Stop by a "batteries plus" store and have them test it as well. Results were failed battery, 200 less cranking amps than minimal. Had an appointment at the dealership yesterday morning. 3 hours go by and they call me stating battery is perfectly in range and all is well. On my way home from work tonight, back to 12.4 range. I'm not physically having any troubles as of yet, but am dreading that this BRAND NEW truck cant keep a battery at what should be an acceptable voltage. Also, with no traditional alternator, does anyone know if the truck will continue to run if the battery dies while on the road?
 

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