ahh, I see. Well, I'm looking forward to the pics updating so I can follow the build thread! The final product looks great!
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Desert Dawg Ram Rebel Build
- Thread starter Desert Dawg
- Start date
TruckDriver
Ram Guru
Bit of a sideline in this thread but since you're talking about image hosting -
Just a heads up, I used to host on various external sites until I realized here on 5thGen, you can copy/paste the images you want in line with your text and it's hosted here. So much better when someone comes back a year later and the hosting link isn't broken
I just screenshot the image I want and paste here, it gets rid of any EXIF data as well if that matters to anyone
ok, back on topic - what have you done lately @Desert Dawg ?
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
@Rollint; Well, what a pain but I finally got all of the images reloaded so now directly hosted here on 5thGen and you should be able to see everything now. Thanks for checking them out!
@TruckDriver; I think I did what you were saying? I just dragged my photos directly into the editing box and it automatically posted. The only pain is sometimes, but not always, it posted both the full sized image and a thumbnail so would have to go back into edit a few times to remove the thumbnails. Probably not the most efficient way to do it but got 'er done! Wish I realized I could have done that initially but I always automatically defaulted to using Photobucket over the years since never an issue until just recently. I am going to write them about cancelling my upgraded subscription and reimburse me for the recent payment but based on complaints I have read, I won't hold my breath.
As far as what I have done lately....nothing, zip, nada. Been too busy with work but my next project is to remove my center console and figure out my light switch placement and properly rewire the Rigids so that I can use the back-lighting. Also decided to install some AMP Research retractable steps (done so on a number of my previous builds) but haven't even ordered them yet. But hopefully, I will be getting a short desert run in soon within the next couple of weeks so will have something to report back on!
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TruckDriver
Ram Guru
Came across a post of someone who line-x'd their skid plate looks like what you were aiming and.... the poll is tied again!
5thgenrams.com
What did you do to your Ram today???
New here, coming from an 18 Durango R/T. I ordered and just received my Laramie Night Edition. Missed having a dead pedal/footrest. Bought one for a Jeep Wrangler JK and modified it to work. Pretty happy with the results.
5thgenrams.com
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
Came across a post of someone who line-x'd their skid plate looks like what you were aiming and.... the poll is tied again!
What did you do to your Ram today???
New here, coming from an 18 Durango R/T. I ordered and just received my Laramie Night Edition. Missed having a dead pedal/footrest. Bought one for a Jeep Wrangler JK and modified it to work. Pretty happy with the results.
Yes, I saw that too...thanks! And yes, the poll is tied again...lol.
Based on that thread, I think I am leaning towards keeping the skid plate stock as it really pops with the Granite Metallic to add some visual interest IMHO especially since I added so much more dark grey mass with the topper. But not ready to make the decision so might the leave the poll open for a few more days to see how it all plays out. I bet it closes dead even...lol.
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
Side Step Selection
On the topic of side steps, I guess I should mention that I typically don’t like them but they are a necessary evil (at least from an off-roading perspective) as most designs detract from the vehicles' clearance and may even decrease the break-over angle. But they are a necessity for my daily driver/weekend warrior vehicle; at 6’ 3”, I personally have no issues getting into or out of my lifted Rebel, but my wife is a lot shorter at only 5’-3” and I also have other shorter/older occupants I need to consider.
Originally, I had planned on going with the AMP Research power retractable side steps. I have installed them on at least 4 other builds and the systems always performed flawlessly for me in all weather conditions (admittedly, I don’t live in an area that gets ice storms where I am sure the motor linkage assemblies might freeze up). But for occasional water crossings and desert/dune runs, the motors are sealed pretty well and so never any performance issues. In addition, since the AMP steps retract high up under the vehicle, I have never had any clearance issues for the type of trails I typically run.
However, as is typical of me when I am ready to order something, I started second guessing myself. While I don’t mind paying top dollar for top quality gear, the AMP asking price of ~$1500-$1900 per set (depending on the model) is high enough to give some pause as I could invest in some real rock sliders at that price.
While some have done a great job of fabricating their own and/or going to a local shop, I don’t have the patience, talent, and time so decided to look into some quality rock slider fabricators online. Not too many options out there (yet) but these looked very good and I almost called them:
https://white-knuckleoffroad.com/ram-1500/
https://www.mapleoffroad.com/new-products/dodge-3rd-amp-4th-gen-rock-sliders-with-rub-rail
photo courtesy of White Knuckle Off-road
But as I thought about it, I had to remind myself that I am not planning on taking my daily driver on highly advanced trails with large, car-sized boulders that I want to climb over. Moderate trailing is all I really want to do with this rig (if not, I will build a Jeep). Also, while newer rock slider designs can now be outfitted with a steel mesh or diamond plate step, the slider height (on the lifted truck) really doesn’t help my vertically challenged passengers. So I nixed that tempting idea.
Next was the “soft” slider/running board options offered by Go Rhino (Dominator Series), n-Fab (various), Westin (Outlaw Series), and others. I say “soft” slider as these are really just nerf bars/running boards with an extra rub rail/tube underneath. While that may provide some minor protection, the systems attach to the body, not the frame, so will not support any vehicle weight at all. But I thought the designs were more interesting and fitting the style of an off-road vehicle more so than the typical flat, wide running boards also offered by the same manufacturers. The argument for selecting a flat, wide running board however is that you get a continuous platform to stand on along the entire length of the cab and you may even get a measure of ding protection from those obnoxious parking lot patrons.
Anyway, my preference was the n-Fab selections mostly due to the fact that I have used several of their products in the past and was always pleased with the quality and n-Fab’s service. In full disclosure, n-Fab still uses a couple of my photos from previous builds to advertise their products (and so now does Walmart, CARiD, and others…lol) but I am not a paid endorser.
Also, n-Fab recently came back on my radar as a friend of mine, who also purchased his Rebel around the same as mine, had just installed a set of their powder-coated RKR Nerf Step System which includes an under rub tube and detachable side steps.
I really like his setup but the drop steps are really quite narrow and I thought might be problematic for some as they are hard to find when exiting the vehicle (or when I get older and can’t see so well). 
So instead, I thought I would go with the beefier looking Podium LG & SS side steps as they are constructed with a 3-inch stainless steel tube with integrated steps that are much larger (and therefore safer and more functional). The main tube also sits high and tight to the vehicle body for a clean modern style.
Eventually I decided that the 3-inch round tubes with larger drop steps would just detract from the additional ground clearance (and increased break-over angle) I achieved with my recent 3-inch lift on the Rebel. I nixed that idea as well.
So I am back to the AMP retractable steps as they drop well below the rocker panel to provide a low, wide, safe step up for others while retracting fully up under the rocker panels to retain my ground clearance when four wheeling. In addition, you can have the side steps in the extended position for a platform along the entire body side (vs. a small step) for when cleaning the vehicle and/or accessing the roof. I have taken these steps off-roading on many a desert and mountain trail with my moderately lifted (3-4 inch) vehicles in the past with never an issue (again, avoiding highly technical trails).
I upgraded this time to their Powerstep XL version which is specifically designed for lifted trucks as the running boards drop an additional 3-inches than their standard version but retract into an integrated “rocker rail” for a seamless look. The system is made of aluminum so lighter than more of the other nerf/running board options and comes with an ORB “plug and play” connection.
I ordered the steps through Amazon and should have them by this weekend. The best thing is I caught the last pair they sold under a special offering that was almost $600 under the list price, so really a win!
edit: grammatical corrections
On the topic of side steps, I guess I should mention that I typically don’t like them but they are a necessary evil (at least from an off-roading perspective) as most designs detract from the vehicles' clearance and may even decrease the break-over angle. But they are a necessity for my daily driver/weekend warrior vehicle; at 6’ 3”, I personally have no issues getting into or out of my lifted Rebel, but my wife is a lot shorter at only 5’-3” and I also have other shorter/older occupants I need to consider.
Originally, I had planned on going with the AMP Research power retractable side steps. I have installed them on at least 4 other builds and the systems always performed flawlessly for me in all weather conditions (admittedly, I don’t live in an area that gets ice storms where I am sure the motor linkage assemblies might freeze up). But for occasional water crossings and desert/dune runs, the motors are sealed pretty well and so never any performance issues. In addition, since the AMP steps retract high up under the vehicle, I have never had any clearance issues for the type of trails I typically run.
However, as is typical of me when I am ready to order something, I started second guessing myself. While I don’t mind paying top dollar for top quality gear, the AMP asking price of ~$1500-$1900 per set (depending on the model) is high enough to give some pause as I could invest in some real rock sliders at that price.
While some have done a great job of fabricating their own and/or going to a local shop, I don’t have the patience, talent, and time so decided to look into some quality rock slider fabricators online. Not too many options out there (yet) but these looked very good and I almost called them:
https://white-knuckleoffroad.com/ram-1500/
https://www.mapleoffroad.com/new-products/dodge-3rd-amp-4th-gen-rock-sliders-with-rub-rail
But as I thought about it, I had to remind myself that I am not planning on taking my daily driver on highly advanced trails with large, car-sized boulders that I want to climb over. Moderate trailing is all I really want to do with this rig (if not, I will build a Jeep). Also, while newer rock slider designs can now be outfitted with a steel mesh or diamond plate step, the slider height (on the lifted truck) really doesn’t help my vertically challenged passengers. So I nixed that tempting idea.
Next was the “soft” slider/running board options offered by Go Rhino (Dominator Series), n-Fab (various), Westin (Outlaw Series), and others. I say “soft” slider as these are really just nerf bars/running boards with an extra rub rail/tube underneath. While that may provide some minor protection, the systems attach to the body, not the frame, so will not support any vehicle weight at all. But I thought the designs were more interesting and fitting the style of an off-road vehicle more so than the typical flat, wide running boards also offered by the same manufacturers. The argument for selecting a flat, wide running board however is that you get a continuous platform to stand on along the entire length of the cab and you may even get a measure of ding protection from those obnoxious parking lot patrons.
Anyway, my preference was the n-Fab selections mostly due to the fact that I have used several of their products in the past and was always pleased with the quality and n-Fab’s service. In full disclosure, n-Fab still uses a couple of my photos from previous builds to advertise their products (and so now does Walmart, CARiD, and others…lol) but I am not a paid endorser.
Also, n-Fab recently came back on my radar as a friend of mine, who also purchased his Rebel around the same as mine, had just installed a set of their powder-coated RKR Nerf Step System which includes an under rub tube and detachable side steps.
So instead, I thought I would go with the beefier looking Podium LG & SS side steps as they are constructed with a 3-inch stainless steel tube with integrated steps that are much larger (and therefore safer and more functional). The main tube also sits high and tight to the vehicle body for a clean modern style.Eventually I decided that the 3-inch round tubes with larger drop steps would just detract from the additional ground clearance (and increased break-over angle) I achieved with my recent 3-inch lift on the Rebel. I nixed that idea as well.
So I am back to the AMP retractable steps as they drop well below the rocker panel to provide a low, wide, safe step up for others while retracting fully up under the rocker panels to retain my ground clearance when four wheeling. In addition, you can have the side steps in the extended position for a platform along the entire body side (vs. a small step) for when cleaning the vehicle and/or accessing the roof. I have taken these steps off-roading on many a desert and mountain trail with my moderately lifted (3-4 inch) vehicles in the past with never an issue (again, avoiding highly technical trails).
I upgraded this time to their Powerstep XL version which is specifically designed for lifted trucks as the running boards drop an additional 3-inches than their standard version but retract into an integrated “rocker rail” for a seamless look. The system is made of aluminum so lighter than more of the other nerf/running board options and comes with an ORB “plug and play” connection.
edit: grammatical corrections
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orange01z28
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I'm kinda bummed that I found White Knuckle AFTER I moved away from CA. They're looking for a Quad Cab to use as a template for Quad Cab rocksliders. Probably would have done that
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I saw that they were looking for a test mule. I always offer folks to use mine but never seem to be close enough to make it feasible.
Americantruck04
Active Member
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@Desert Dawg
How do you like the lift and can you post a pic of your truck flexed out?
How do you like the lift and can you post a pic of your truck flexed out?
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
I am really enjoying the lift so far; truck tracks true and the ride is smooth on road with very good off-road performance as well! I don't have any pics of it yet under full flex but hope to have some soon on a desert run I want to do.
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
The AMP Research power steps arrived last night...super fast shipment from Amazon considering the system comes in two very long, heavy boxes. I noticed that one of the boxes had a corner bashed in so was a little concerned that maybe a step or rail was damaged but all I could find was a couple of very small chips in the powder coating (so an easy fix). Everything else was packaged very nicely and labeled. Will install the steps this weekend so hope to have some pics posted soon of the install in case anyone is curious.
Helmetface
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Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
AMP Research Power Step XL Install
As mentioned previously, I am a big fan of the AMP Research Power Steps having installed them on several of my trucks. But I am NOT a fan of installing these things, at all. Is not because the installation is extremely difficult because it isn't if you have basic automotive and electrical skills and tools, but the steps are a major pain in the derriere especially if you don't have a lift. I converted my old shop into a garage/man cave sort of thing but my roof is rather low and so haven't worked out the lift details. Since I just had my truck lifted, I didn't bother about putting it up on jack stands to give me a little more room but it would have made the install a tad easier; the steps have to be installed in the deployed position to fit and align with the motor/idler arm assemblies and therefore cannot be retracted until powered up. The XL steps extend just a tad more than the standard steps which decreases the available space between the floor and the extended step. I knew this but my impatience proved out as it took me almost 8 hours to install versus the usual 5-6 hours (note; AMP Research suggests that you will need 3-5 hours of installation assuming you're a skilled mechanic, just saying).
One of the things I am a stickler about, especially when receiving packaged goods, is to unpack everything to visually inspect the condition and make sure all of the parts are actually accounted for. Nothing worse than getting more than 50% through something only to find out you're missing a key bolt or part. Everything looked good and ready to go!
Part of accounting for all of the parts is to organize everything before getting started. I like using old ammo trays to separate all of the small pieces and contain them especially since I have a penchant for knocking small items off my work bench or kicking them under something without realizing it and then spending hours looking for it...lol.
After getting organized, another anal thing I do is clean everything before I start working. So I wiped down the engine bay as well as under the rocker panels so that no loose dirt/mud gets in the way or falls into my eyes when working. The other thing I did was make sure the factory body panel studs were also cleaned so that the nuts would not bind up and/or over torque the studs.
One of the first steps is to install the rail brackets to the rails (specific for the XL model only). One tip to save time/effort later is to measure exactly as recommended in the instructions (which are actually lacking in a lot of detail, unfortunately). I was able to slide under the truck with the rails on my chest and lifted them directly onto the studs so that part was actually quite easy.
The instructions do include torque specs for most of the bolts and so I highly recommend using a torque wrench (not that I have ever over torqued anything before ).
For my setup, I had to attach the motor assemblies (sometimes they come pre-attached). But I was very happy to see that the gear drive housing covers actually fit perfectly and so I didn't have to trim anything like on previous models. Anyway, the motor assemblies and idler arms connect very nicely to the factory studs without the need for any drilling (which is nice since I had to also drill and install rivet nuts on other builds). For both the XL and non-XL models, it is always a good idea to leave everything loose so that you have enough play to line up/mount the assemblies and then the step boards. Getting the step boards onto the arms can be a hassle since you have to seat the T-nuts into the arm pockets and secure with the supplied socket cap screws. To make this easy, simply stick a thin Allen wrench through a mounting hole in the arms and slide the T-bar and align its mounting hole to the Allen wrench and drop into place. A more painstaking task is aligning the step boards centered with the rail assemblies (again, because I am anal, I measured everything 3-4 times along with using various levels).
Once secured, I went back under the truck and tightened everything to spec. Now ready for the real work; the electrical hook up.
As mentioned previously, I am a big fan of the AMP Research Power Steps having installed them on several of my trucks. But I am NOT a fan of installing these things, at all. Is not because the installation is extremely difficult because it isn't if you have basic automotive and electrical skills and tools, but the steps are a major pain in the derriere especially if you don't have a lift. I converted my old shop into a garage/man cave sort of thing but my roof is rather low and so haven't worked out the lift details. Since I just had my truck lifted, I didn't bother about putting it up on jack stands to give me a little more room but it would have made the install a tad easier; the steps have to be installed in the deployed position to fit and align with the motor/idler arm assemblies and therefore cannot be retracted until powered up. The XL steps extend just a tad more than the standard steps which decreases the available space between the floor and the extended step. I knew this but my impatience proved out as it took me almost 8 hours to install versus the usual 5-6 hours (note; AMP Research suggests that you will need 3-5 hours of installation assuming you're a skilled mechanic, just saying).
After getting organized, another anal thing I do is clean everything before I start working. So I wiped down the engine bay as well as under the rocker panels so that no loose dirt/mud gets in the way or falls into my eyes when working. The other thing I did was make sure the factory body panel studs were also cleaned so that the nuts would not bind up and/or over torque the studs.
One of the first steps is to install the rail brackets to the rails (specific for the XL model only). One tip to save time/effort later is to measure exactly as recommended in the instructions (which are actually lacking in a lot of detail, unfortunately). I was able to slide under the truck with the rails on my chest and lifted them directly onto the studs so that part was actually quite easy.
).For my setup, I had to attach the motor assemblies (sometimes they come pre-attached). But I was very happy to see that the gear drive housing covers actually fit perfectly and so I didn't have to trim anything like on previous models. Anyway, the motor assemblies and idler arms connect very nicely to the factory studs without the need for any drilling (which is nice since I had to also drill and install rivet nuts on other builds). For both the XL and non-XL models, it is always a good idea to leave everything loose so that you have enough play to line up/mount the assemblies and then the step boards. Getting the step boards onto the arms can be a hassle since you have to seat the T-nuts into the arm pockets and secure with the supplied socket cap screws. To make this easy, simply stick a thin Allen wrench through a mounting hole in the arms and slide the T-bar and align its mounting hole to the Allen wrench and drop into place. A more painstaking task is aligning the step boards centered with the rail assemblies (again, because I am anal, I measured everything 3-4 times along with using various levels).
Once secured, I went back under the truck and tightened everything to spec. Now ready for the real work; the electrical hook up.
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Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
AMP Research Power Step XL Install (continued)
Now my model is "plug and play" which sounds great unless you are obsessed in making sure everything looks factory clean! So after laying out the harness across the engine compartment, I was able to decide how I wanted everything to mount and look. AMP suggests that you mount the step controller to the existing factory conduit in the engine bay. I was not liking that idea as I wanted the module as high as possible and easy to disconnect if needed, so I drilled a couple of holes in the molded cover (and underlying steel) on top of the firewall and installed the module using the supplied zip ties. I then removed the supplied in-line 30 amp fuse and connected the module to the battery and zip tied everything with my Rigid light wiring for a nice bundled look.
After getting the module mounted, I then opened up the electrical chase that runs along the top of the engine bay (under the plastic cover per above) and inserted the passenger side harness wiring through the chase. This was actually not as easy as I had hoped since it is hard to reach and I always worried about breaking the plastic tabs that insert into the metal receivers but I took my time and didn't break anything. The result is a completely clean, factory looking install within the engine compartment with minimal exposed wire loom.
After that, I dropped both the driver and passenger side wiring down along the wheel wells and made sure nothing was touching anything mechanical or anything that might get hot. Once down the sides, I threaded the harness through the frame/bracket openings up along the under body side sheet metal and zip tied as much as possible to keep in place. After getting the wiring along both sides laid out, I decided where I wanted to place the LED step light brackets to make sure I would have enough play to attach.
I actually debated about installing the LED step lights because on prior models, the lights are simply pressed onto the rocker panels and required drilling through the pinch weld areas to pass the wiring through. I never liked that idea, as well as reports of the two-sided 3M tape not holding up, so I always skipped this step. But with the XL, you get these slick metal brackets that attach to the rails and not to the rocker panels. They are tucked up high with no need to drill through the body. So I decided to give it a try. Also, if the tape does not hold up, I can replace it along with the fact that I have a nice cache of replacement LED lights that I kept from previous installations.
Next, you have to pass through the firewall so that the trigger wires can be wired up to the supplied OBD II plug. I wasn't relishing this task either as it is always a pain fishing something through a rubber boot to pass through the wires. But I followed the instructions that suggested you use the boot right below the steering column. I don't know why I didn't see/use this when I wired my two pairs of Rigid rights, but it was a lot simpler this time just using a hanger and electrical tape.
Getting the OBD II connected to the green port tray located in the side panel was a lot harder, especially if you have big hands as I could barely reach up under the dash to the plug. You can use any open port in the tray but of course the only open port I had was at the very top. Also, at over 6' tall, getting underneath the dash enough while holding a light and the 2-pin connector was a chore too. Anyway, after a few frustrating attempts, I got it in (no jokes allowed).
After zip tying everything up high under the dash, it was time to check everything and then clean up before reinstalling the 30-amp in-line fuse. As soon as I did, I heard the whir of the motor arms as the steps retracted immediately under the rocker panels. So the first good news is I didn't hear any clunking of the steps that might suggest hitting of the rail assemblies. The second good news is the LED lights worked!
I was ecstatic as I was finally done...except for one little observation; when I opened the driver side door, the passenger side step would extend or retract and the same for the passenger side door that activated the driver side. WTF (What the Frak) ? I knew I wired everything right (hard to mess up the passenger side wiring since the driver side wiring is way too short to reach the passenger side)! I went round and round on what might be wrong and even hunted for troubleshooting tips online (to no avail). But then it occurred to me that it must be the OBD II plug; either I used the wrong port or it's defective. I revisited the port tray and there was no other place to plug in so that could not be it. I checked the AMP instructions and there is no mention at all of any wiring preference for driver vs. passenger side, so what could it be?
Turns out, I am just color blind enough not to notice the subtle difference in the trigger wire coloring. I disconnected the OBD II plug and exchanged the two wire connections...bingo!
Now my model is "plug and play" which sounds great unless you are obsessed in making sure everything looks factory clean! So after laying out the harness across the engine compartment, I was able to decide how I wanted everything to mount and look. AMP suggests that you mount the step controller to the existing factory conduit in the engine bay. I was not liking that idea as I wanted the module as high as possible and easy to disconnect if needed, so I drilled a couple of holes in the molded cover (and underlying steel) on top of the firewall and installed the module using the supplied zip ties. I then removed the supplied in-line 30 amp fuse and connected the module to the battery and zip tied everything with my Rigid light wiring for a nice bundled look.
After getting the module mounted, I then opened up the electrical chase that runs along the top of the engine bay (under the plastic cover per above) and inserted the passenger side harness wiring through the chase. This was actually not as easy as I had hoped since it is hard to reach and I always worried about breaking the plastic tabs that insert into the metal receivers but I took my time and didn't break anything. The result is a completely clean, factory looking install within the engine compartment with minimal exposed wire loom.
I actually debated about installing the LED step lights because on prior models, the lights are simply pressed onto the rocker panels and required drilling through the pinch weld areas to pass the wiring through. I never liked that idea, as well as reports of the two-sided 3M tape not holding up, so I always skipped this step. But with the XL, you get these slick metal brackets that attach to the rails and not to the rocker panels. They are tucked up high with no need to drill through the body. So I decided to give it a try. Also, if the tape does not hold up, I can replace it along with the fact that I have a nice cache of replacement LED lights that I kept from previous installations.
Next, you have to pass through the firewall so that the trigger wires can be wired up to the supplied OBD II plug. I wasn't relishing this task either as it is always a pain fishing something through a rubber boot to pass through the wires. But I followed the instructions that suggested you use the boot right below the steering column. I don't know why I didn't see/use this when I wired my two pairs of Rigid rights, but it was a lot simpler this time just using a hanger and electrical tape.
I was ecstatic as I was finally done...except for one little observation; when I opened the driver side door, the passenger side step would extend or retract and the same for the passenger side door that activated the driver side. WTF (What the Frak) ?
I knew I wired everything right (hard to mess up the passenger side wiring since the driver side wiring is way too short to reach the passenger side)! I went round and round on what might be wrong and even hunted for troubleshooting tips online (to no avail). But then it occurred to me that it must be the OBD II plug; either I used the wrong port or it's defective. I revisited the port tray and there was no other place to plug in so that could not be it. I checked the AMP instructions and there is no mention at all of any wiring preference for driver vs. passenger side, so what could it be?Turns out, I am just color blind enough not to notice the subtle difference in the trigger wire coloring. I disconnected the OBD II plug and exchanged the two wire connections...bingo!
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Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
AMP Research Power Step XL Install (continued)
So all done.
So all done.
Americantruck04
Active Member
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@Desert Dawg have you thought about color matching skid plate?
Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
Great looking garage/man cave you got there Desert Dawg.
@Skater; thank you...turns out to be a great place for my college-aged kids and friends to hang out too separate from the main house! The shop is actually "L-shaped" so there is another portion that is a tandem garage and fits two vehicles (the main house has a 3-bay garage but being used for the other family vehicles). As the Rebel gets finished, I will be getting the itch for another build so hope to find an old muscle car again which will really put the shop back to use.
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Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
lol...yeah, but still can't make up my mind as I really like the signature Rebel look from the front but then think the color matched looks better from the side angle. The poll is now slightly favoring the color-matched look but it is not a runaway consensus. Now that the steps are done, I need to make a decision so will drop by the Linex shop within the next week to get a quote and see if that tilts the decision either way.
