Desert Dawg
Well-Known Member
It only took about 3 years to finally hook up the backlighting on my Rigid 360 Series Driving and Spot lights. I used a Cali Raised Switch Controller and In-cab Panel as I also want to add some ditch lights and rear backup lights. The switch controller system is great as you only have to go through the firewall once (sort of, see below) with the control wire to the panel as all of the power connections are made in the engine bay.
Switch controller installed (tight fit as I also have my winch remoter control box installed near the battery as well but was able to mount the switch controller directly to the winch control box mounting bracket):
Edit: I do have some wire insulators installed on all of the outgoing power leads after taking this shot.
In-cab panel installed with tilting metal bracket mounted directly to center console (note; to light up the switch panel, you need to tap an accessory fuse but there is no safe ignition-on/spare fused tapping points inside the engine bay fuse box but there is one accessory fuse supplied within the in-cab fuse box so I tapped that with a 10 amp micro fuse tap extended from the switch controller in the engine bay).
For those that are curious, I wired the Rigid LED driving lights (outboard pair on my bumper) directly to the controller without using the Rigid relay (so only power and ground). For the Rigid LED Spot lights, I used the Rigid Wiring/Relay harness by connecting both the accessory (white) wires from both pairs with the harness red power wire while wiring the LED power (blue) separately to the switch controller. That allows me to run the low-load backlighting for all (4) lights at once with just one push switch on the panel, and then each pair of LED Spots or Driving lights separately or all together.
Backlighting only:
All on:
Switch controller installed (tight fit as I also have my winch remoter control box installed near the battery as well but was able to mount the switch controller directly to the winch control box mounting bracket):
Edit: I do have some wire insulators installed on all of the outgoing power leads after taking this shot.
In-cab panel installed with tilting metal bracket mounted directly to center console (note; to light up the switch panel, you need to tap an accessory fuse but there is no safe ignition-on/spare fused tapping points inside the engine bay fuse box but there is one accessory fuse supplied within the in-cab fuse box so I tapped that with a 10 amp micro fuse tap extended from the switch controller in the engine bay).
For those that are curious, I wired the Rigid LED driving lights (outboard pair on my bumper) directly to the controller without using the Rigid relay (so only power and ground). For the Rigid LED Spot lights, I used the Rigid Wiring/Relay harness by connecting both the accessory (white) wires from both pairs with the harness red power wire while wiring the LED power (blue) separately to the switch controller. That allows me to run the low-load backlighting for all (4) lights at once with just one push switch on the panel, and then each pair of LED Spots or Driving lights separately or all together.
Backlighting only:
All on:
Last edited: