Dealer Freaked out when they saw IGLA/CompuStar

[GeorgiaBoy]

I have IGLA and Compustar T13 installed. Last week, I let the truck set for 2 days and got a warning from the Drone app that the truck battery was low. Sure nuff truck would not start but all kinds of flashing and beeping are going on—disconnected battery to shut it up. Charged battery, reconnected, and started fine but all kinds of warning lights came on and would not go away after several days of driving. So off to the dealer I go for them to 1) check battery (30 months old). 2) clear codes 3) Change oil.

I'm very new to the IGLA/Compustar system but learning fast. Before going to the dealer I turned off passive arming and put the IGLA proximity key fob in the truck (which eliminated the need to put in the IGLA code). I have since learned that the proximity key fob does not disable hijack mode. Which apparently kicked in a time or two during the service. While they said the battery was good, this is the service advisor's write-up. LOL!

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Customer States TRUCK WOULD NOT START DID HAVE POWER HAD TO
BE JUMPED OFF CHECK AND ADVISE (General Concern 1)
Cause: TESTED BATTERY7 AND BATTERY PASSED. FOUND DRAW ON BATTERYFROM AFTERMARKET ALARMS SYSTEM. RECOMMEND REMOVE ALARMSYSTEM. ALARM SYSTEM ALSO HAS IGNITION INTERRUPTER CAUSINGIGNITON SIGNAL ISSUES AS WELL. SYSTEM IS HARDWIRED TO BCMIGNITION RUN START AS WELL.RECOMMEND TOWING VEHICLE TO SHOPALARM WAS INSTALLED ANDHAVING ALARM REMOVED FROM VEHICLE FOR INTERRUPTINGCOMMUNICATION. Correction: ADVISE VEHICLE NOT SAFE TO DRIVE WITH SYSTEM ACTING UP
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(Of course I did not take his advice).

They initially indicated that they changed some stuff, and I exploded. Then they denied they changed anything. I took it back to the installer today, and they verified nothing was changed by the dealer.

So, for those of you that have the IGLA system, how do you handle it when taking it into the dealer?

 

[Cbty2050]

They initially indicated that they changed some stuff, and I exploded.

Did you apologize for exploding?

They did not give any numbers/data of a draw on the system. They should give you what that draw is. If the system is at fault, can they remove power to the system easily? That would prove it is at fault.

Stellantis/FCA/Ram has issues with electrical aftermarket add ons, they will say remove it to continue testing.

Ultimately the dealer needs to prove the system causing the draw.

 

[GeorgiaBoy]

The installer said the draw was .0023 Planning on replacing the battery with an AGM soon. Just hoping the warning lights don't reappear when I change it out.

And NO, I did not apologize, but I did have a long, firm, professional talk with the service advisor when I picked it up. Don't want to burn that bridge.

 

[GeorgiaBoy]

@Air'd outSRT I would appreciate your input on this thread. thanks!

 

[Cbty2050]

.0023 amp draw, that's incredibly low. Sounds like the battery is failing

 

[RebelliousGt]

I have IGLA and Compustar T13 installed. Last week, I let the truck set for 2 days and got a warning from the Drone app that the truck battery was low. Sure nuff truck would not start but all kinds of flashing and beeping are going on—disconnected battery to shut it up. Charged battery, reconnected, and started fine but all kinds of warning lights came on and would not go away after several days of driving. So off to the dealer I go for them to 1) check battery (30 months old). 2) clear codes 3) Change oil.

I'm very new to the IGLA/Compustar system but learning fast. Before going to the dealer I turned off passive arming and put the IGLA proximity key fob in the truck (which eliminated the need to put in the IGLA code). I have since learned that the proximity key fob does not disable hijack mode. Which apparently kicked in a time or two during the service. While they said the battery was good, this is the service advisor's write-up. LOL!

--------
Customer States TRUCK WOULD NOT START DID HAVE POWER HAD TO
BE JUMPED OFF CHECK AND ADVISE (General Concern 1)
Cause: TESTED BATTERY7 AND BATTERY PASSED. FOUND DRAW ON BATTERYFROM AFTERMARKET ALARMS SYSTEM. RECOMMEND REMOVE ALARMSYSTEM. ALARM SYSTEM ALSO HAS IGNITION INTERRUPTER CAUSINGIGNITON SIGNAL ISSUES AS WELL. SYSTEM IS HARDWIRED TO BCMIGNITION RUN START AS WELL.RECOMMEND TOWING VEHICLE TO SHOPALARM WAS INSTALLED ANDHAVING ALARM REMOVED FROM VEHICLE FOR INTERRUPTINGCOMMUNICATION. Correction: ADVISE VEHICLE NOT SAFE TO DRIVE WITH SYSTEM ACTING UP
--------
(Of course I did not take his advice).

They initially indicated that they changed some stuff, and I exploded. Then they denied they changed anything. I took it back to the installer today, and they verified nothing was changed by the dealer.

So, for those of you that have the IGLA system, how do you handle it when taking it into the dealer?

When ever I go in to the dealer I initiate valet mode so they can start and drive the truck as much as they need to, but I also warn them not to go faster than 60km/hr because that rearms the system. As for the hijack mode I warn them also to not open the driver door while test driving, whether to get out of the truck to get a coffee or look around the truck because that door opening triggers the hijack mode and 300 meters down the road she’ll shut down and the code will need to be entered. Pre warn and there should be no problem.

 

[BowDown]

When ever I go in to the dealer I initiate valet mode so they can start and drive the truck as much as they need to, but I also warn them not to go faster than 60km/hr because that rearms the system. As for the hijack mode I warn them also to not open the driver door while test driving, whether to get out of the truck to get a coffee or look around the truck because that door opening triggers the hijack mode and 300 meters down the road she’ll shut down and the code will need to be entered. Pre warn and there should be no problem.

Seems like the smart thing to do and exactly what I would have done if in the same situation; I'd damn sure tell the service advisor about this system if my truck was in for work.
My car has a twin disk ceramic clutch that takes more than understanding how to drive a manual trans to drive. I warn the shop (inspection, window tint, etc) about the clutch anytime the car has to be driven by anyone other than me for exactly this reason.

 

[GeorgiaBoy]

.0023 amp draw, that's incredibly low. Sounds like the battery is failing

Agreed. That is with dash cam in park mode and the IGLA and Compustar all active. I'll put in a AGM soon.

 

[Cbty2050]

I think there is an extra zero in that reading. That is 2.3 milliamps, 23 milliamps is a low number on a newer vehicle.

 

[GeorgiaBoy]

I think there is an extra zero in that reading. That is 2.3 milliamps, 23 milliamps is a low number on a newer vehicle.

May very well have an extra zero. Tech quickly showed me the reading. I'm no where close to an electrical engineer! LOL!

 

[arod412]

its been a while since i posted here. i don't have compustar on my ram, but i do on my charger. thing is always prompting that i have a low battery. Ive had it for about 9 months now...even if i put the battery on the trickle charger and rechage the entire battery, it always shows a low 11.5v even though i bought a batter tester, and its at least 12.5v.

so in my case, i wonder if its using the backup battery for the drone mobile portion. Ironically, when my charger is on, voltage jumps up to about 13-14v. im just going to turn off the low battery notification...because i know the battery is fine.

 

[firemedic10584]

Your battery is over 2 years old. Lots and lots of discussion on factory batteries only lasting 2, MAYBE 3 years tops. If I was a betting man (which I am lol), I'd say your battery is the culprit here and nothing else. Slap a new AGM in it and call it a day.

 

[31RamIt]

Your battery is over 2 years old. Lots and lots of discussion on factory batteries only lasting 2, MAYBE 3 years tops. If I was a betting man (which I am lol), I'd say your battery is the culprit here and nothing else. Slap a new AGM in it and call it a day.

I feel blessed with my 3 1/2 year old battery, I guess.

 

[firecadet613]

Your battery is over 2 years old. Lots and lots of discussion on factory batteries only lasting 2, MAYBE 3 years tops. If I was a betting man (which I am lol), I'd say your battery is the culprit here and nothing else. Slap a new AGM in it and call it a day.

Amen!

I feel blessed with my 3 1/2 year old battery, I guess.

I'm pushing 5 years, but I only drive the Ram once a week and throw the battery tender on for a day or two a week.

 

[31RamIt]

Amen!

I'm pushing 5 years, but I only drive the Ram once a week and throw the battery tender on for a day or two a week.

I've literally never had to charge the battery and I drive it maybe once a week. We are the unicorns.