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Connect subwoofer amp with 8.4 screen and 6 speaker system

OK... Found some things out and still need a few more answers.

If you have an amplified system, this looks like a great option.
https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41

If you do not, I believe something like the Audio Control LC2i would be the best option to add a subwoofer amp.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/

I found the audio schematics from this thread:
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/5th-gen-stock-stereo-upgrade-options.926/page-2

Question.
Where can I grab the audio signal for the LC2i?
From the ANC under the seat or from a front speaker?

Anyone done this yet?
 
I am interested in this information also, I have a Sub ready to put in but need this information too.
 
You can grab signal before the anc module. Should be a clean full range source.


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I'm following the thread but wanted to find out if the factory sub with the 9 speaker system would be an easy install and where to find one. Thanks.
 
I have heard that this summer an adapter will be available to complete this the correct way.
I do not have any other details right now but am patiently waiting...
 
I have the 6 speaker system as well. I am very interested to see anyone's sub install. My search-fu comes up with nothing.
 
I’ll post mine when I get it done. My truck has been at the dealer for weeks getting the usb hub and a few other things done. Not sure wth they are doing that’s taking so long. Once it’s back I will finish up my amp and sub install and will update.
 
Finally got mine done. Removed ANC module under drivers seat and used ACH4 harness to tap into the input for speakers there with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1. Ran wiring down door sills to back seats for amp, then back under driver seat for output to speakers. Both input and outputs are available there because of ANC.

I decided to go with a 5 channel amp to power all the Kickers I installed in place of factory dash/doors and the JL 10TW3-D8 sub. Sound deadening installed in all of the doors and some in the rear under flooring. Covered back of cab with it too behind back seats while I had those out trying to figure out what to do.

Hell of a project compared to what it used to be. But, I never cut a factory harness. That made things more costly/time consuming. Everything looks and sounds awesome now.
2c2d1e936331692c5854b07db625ac50.jpg
b69818a71f139a47497daf45b12c5094.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Finally got mine done. Removed ANC module under drivers seat and used ACH4 harness to tap into the input for speakers there with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1. Ran wiring down door sills to back seats for amp, then back under driver seat for output to speakers. Both input and outputs are available there because of ANC.

I decided to go with a 5 channel amp to power all the Kickers I installed in place of factory dash/doors and the JL 10TW3-D8 sub. Sound deadening installed in all of the doors and some in the rear under flooring. Covered back of cab with it too behind back seats while I had those out trying to figure out what to do.

Hell of a project compared to what it used to be. But, I never cut a factory harness. That made things more costly/time consuming. Everything looks and sounds awesome now.
2c2d1e936331692c5854b07db625ac50.jpg
b69818a71f139a47497daf45b12c5094.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's awesome, nice work!

I'm lost when it comes to modern audio installs (last one I did was around 2002).

If I just wanted to install a mono amp and sub, would I need a DSR1 or is there an easier way?

Thanks
 
That's awesome, nice work!

I'm lost when it comes to modern audio installs (last one I did was around 2002).

If I just wanted to install a mono amp and sub, would I need a DSR1 or is there an easier way?

Thanks

You don’t have to. I “soft” wired mine in temporarily to test connection without and it worked just fine.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
For those just looking to add a small sub, one would assume you could just do a line out converter using one of the rear speakers for a signal right? Followed by most likely disconnecting the ANC from the sounds of it.
 
Why not order the OEM DT behind the rear seat speaker box (part number 5064369AB) and then add your own speaker and amp?

I'd rather not lose under seat storage and this OEM box may be a good compromise!

Mopar has a subwoofer with the electrical connections for the classic (DS) 1500, too bad they don't offer this option for the new DT truck.
 
You don’t have to. I “soft” wired mine in temporarily to test connection without and it worked just fine.



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Okay, thanks. Do you happen to have a link to the harness you used to plug into the ANC connection?
 
Why not order the OEM DT behind the rear seat speaker box (part number 5064369AB) and then add your own speaker and amp?

I'd rather not lose under seat storage and this OEM box may be a good compromise!

Mopar has a subwoofer with the electrical connections for the classic (DS) 1500, too bad they don't offer this option for the new DT truck.
When I search that part number I come up with a DS enclosure. Is the enclosure for the DT the same?
 
When I search that part number I come up with a DS enclosure. Is the enclosure for the DT the same?

Maybe I grabbed the wrong part number? I started by searching for parts for my DT truck and saw the subwoofer cabinet. I'll have to do it again and double check, but now when I try to search for it again, it's not showing up. LOL
 
Okay, I pulled the trigger on a Kenwood Excelon 5 channel amp to push the 4 door Kicker 6x9s and now I have 500W @ 2ohm for a sub.

I think I've narrowed it down to either a JL 8W3 in their factory ported box OR a 10W1 in a small sealed box. Anyone have an opinion on those two options?
 
Okay, I pulled the trigger on a Kenwood Excelon 5 channel amp to push the 4 door Kicker 6x9s and now I have 500W @ 2ohm for a sub.

I think I've narrowed it down to either a JL 8W3 in their factory ported box OR a 10W1 in a small sealed box. Anyone have an opinion on those two options?
I used a generic line out converter to tap into the rear speaker wires. I tapped at the pillars between the doors and ran to under the back seats. The RCA cables go to a Hifonics ZRX1216.10 mounted under the driver seat. Powering two JL 10W1v3-4 subs under the rear seat. Door speakers replaced with MB Quart Q series. Waiting for the harness to come out so I can replace the head unit.
 
I used a generic line out converter to tap into the rear speaker wires. I tapped at the pillars between the doors and ran to under the back seats. The RCA cables go to a Hifonics ZRX1216.10 mounted under the driver seat. Powering two JL 10W1v3-4 subs under the rear seat. Door speakers replaced with MB Quart Q series. Waiting for the harness to come out so I can replace the head unit.

Nice! I ended up going with an Alpine Type R 8. Made a small (.33 ft3) box to fit inside the storage under the passenger back seat. Amp is mounted on the hump under the middle of the back seat.

I bought this harness


And it worked out perfectly. Left the ANC mics unconnected. The labels on the harness don't match up because it's for a different make/year, but you have access to all 22 pins and 16 pins. Took the ANC output to RCAs to the amp and the output from the amp goes back to speaker harness at the ANC unit. All plug and play, ZERO cutting or tapping of factory wiring. I could have the whole thing back to factory in a few minutes.

I'll post some pics after I carpet the enclosure and clean up the wires.
 
Nice! I ended up going with an Alpine Type R 8. Made a small (.33 ft3) box to fit inside the storage under the passenger back seat. Amp is mounted on the hump under the middle of the back seat.

I bought this harness


And it worked out perfectly. Left the ANC mics unconnected. The labels on the harness don't match up because it's for a different make/year, but you have access to all 22 pins and 16 pins. Took the ANC output to RCAs to the amp and the output from the amp goes back to speaker harness at the ANC unit. All plug and play, ZERO cutting or tapping of factory wiring. I could have the whole thing back to factory in a few minutes.

I'll post some pics after I carpet the enclosure and clean up the wires.

If you bypass the ANC completely by removing mic wires, besides the speaker wires do you need to connect together the other wires for the canbus etc? You’re using a harness but if I just wanted to jumper it by hand I’m trying to figure out what I need to do besides connecting the speaker wires. What other wires need to be connected?
 

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