Do you know what circuit they tapped for power? Assuming they are on your running light circuit, but which wire and location did they tap?
Thanks
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Clearance lights (cab lights)
- Thread starter Hahny
- Start date
Thanks
DakotaRam
Active Member
Not quite sure, not sure if the “kit“ has a certain tie in spot or not. I’ll try find out.
Burner1352
Active Member
I know of this company. Haven't bought them myself yet, but they are wireless and no drilling needed. https://caboveramerica.com/
Saddlerocker
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The Caboveramerica ones now offer an only ON/OFF option so no cycling through.
I cannot attest to the solar charging ability, but I watched a review on youtube where the guy like them.
I dont like that their on a remote. Would prefer their wired with the lights/parking lights
I cannot attest to the solar charging ability, but I watched a review on youtube where the guy like them.
I dont like that their on a remote. Would prefer their wired with the lights/parking lights
shlebz
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So I ended up going with the Cab Over America lights. I've never had a problem with charging and they hold a charge well and seem to last awhile. They only do On/Off. Work off the remote which is annoying but not a deal breaker... but if they had an upgrade to auto on and off with the truck I would do it in a heart beat. I had one stop working within a couple months and he messaged me back right away willing to warranty it but at the time it was a polar vortex in Wisconsin winter and I didn't want to go take it off in the cold and I just never got around to warranting it. Overall I love the look and they're functional. 
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
MikeyHo808
Ram Guru
On my 2004 Laramie, I drilled the 15 holes in my roof for a set of cab lights less than a year into owning that truck. It took a lot of courage to start that first drill hole…talk about nerve racking, especially on a practically brand new truck.
Was not dealing with it this time around, but wanted and love the look of cab lights. When I saw the COA solar lights, I had to have them.
Have had my set on the truck for over 2 years, smoked lenses with white light. I had one light not holding a consistent charge about 18 months in. Reached out to COA for support. Even though I was out of warranty, they offered to send me a new light, just had to send them the bad one. Never sent it, because the problem with the light went away.
I have one of the remotes velcroed to my dash right above the starter. No problems turning on and off from there. Here is a pic with my new grill lights! The COA lights were pricey, but so far, I have gotten my worth out of them, for sure! Excellent customer service also. And they’re cheaper now than when I bought my set.
Was not dealing with it this time around, but wanted and love the look of cab lights. When I saw the COA solar lights, I had to have them.
Have had my set on the truck for over 2 years, smoked lenses with white light. I had one light not holding a consistent charge about 18 months in. Reached out to COA for support. Even though I was out of warranty, they offered to send me a new light, just had to send them the bad one. Never sent it, because the problem with the light went away.
I have one of the remotes velcroed to my dash right above the starter. No problems turning on and off from there. Here is a pic with my new grill lights! The COA lights were pricey, but so far, I have gotten my worth out of them, for sure! Excellent customer service also. And they’re cheaper now than when I bought my set.
Darksteel165
Legendary member
I wonder how those would look on my blacked out truck. I'm thinking maybe the smoked housings with amber lights wouldn't look too wonky. I wonder how long the batteries will last since the kits so expensive ($400)
shlebz
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I've owned them since Sept of 2020. In Oct 20 my one went bad (they offered to warranty for free but me being lazy kept forgetting to take it off and send it so I never warrantiesd it) but the other 4 are still working great.
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Darksteel165
Legendary member
Are they white or amber lights?
If they are amber do they match your blinker color?
shlebz
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They're white with an Amber film and then the Amber cover. They're pretty darn close in color!
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MikeyHo808
Ram Guru
Below is the actual set. From top to bottom:
-Mounting plates with adhesive tape underneath. They go directly to the body.
-The light modules inside the bottom housings for the modules. The housing slip over the extruding screws on the mounting plates. These are a rubber like material.
Smoked lenses. I think you get a choice of clear, smoked or amber.
-Measuring tape, amber overlays to give amber light look in smoked lense, 2 remotes and the nuts to lock everything down to the mounting plate.
Was running amber color for a bit, but the contrast wasnt happening for me so I removed the amber strips from the lights. Still very happy with them. Would I buy it again? Yes, I would.
Malodave
Ram Guru
I added them to my '21 Laramie EcoDiesel. I will do a HOW-TO thread shortly including pulling the Fuse box to wire them in to the Clearance light fuse (F11)
Malodave
The Circled fuse contact is the one that gets power with the Running lights.
Malodave
The Circled fuse contact is the one that gets power with the Running lights.
Redz72
Ram Guru
I’m interested in how you got power to F11. My ‘22 Big Horn didn’t come from the factory with a fuse in that location, and I don’t believe there is even bus bar (or whatever) connected to it underneath. But I could be wrong. If you found a way to make that happen, I would try the same thing. Thanks in adavance.
MikeyHo808
Ram Guru
I assume your set is a permanent, drilled in set? Threw me off, as there is no wiring required with the COA lights. Looks good!
Malodave
Ram Guru
The Red Circle shows what side has power with the Running Lights. Pulling the fuse box is a strait forward and easy task.
Once I split the fuse box to get to the PCB, I drilled a hole in that circled location for the wire from an inline fuse holder.
Pull the wire thru the hole and solder it to the PCB in that location. You will need a powerful Soldering iron as the hole
thru the PCB is not Thermally isolated. A 25 watt pencil soldering Iron will not cut it. I had a $600 Metcal iron and it
barely got enough heat to solder the wire. You would probably need a 100-250 watt soldering gun like your Grandfather used.
There are 3 grounding lugs right in that corner of the engine bay to use.
Something like this:
Weller 100-Watt/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit 9400PKS - The Home Depot
Keep your work space neat and clean with the selection of this highly durable Weller large size Soldering Gun Kit.
www.homedepot.com
Like I said, I will do a full HOW-TO thread to put in the Modification forum.
Malodave
I have included the Template I made with links to the Parts I used:
If you have a sunroof you will need to double check if it works for you.
You can get it printed at a Reprographics shop or some place
that prints blueprints. When I printed it it cost me about $10-12 for the two.
Redz72
Ram Guru
Thanks brother. I look forward to the write up!The Red Circle shows what side has power with the Running Lights. Pulling the fuse box is a strait forward and easy task.
Once I split the fuse box to get to the PCB, I drilled a hole in that circled location for the wire from an inline fuse holder.
Pull the wire thru the hole and solder it to the PCB in that location. You will need a powerful Soldering iron as the hole
thru the PCB is not Thermally isolated. A 25 watt pencil soldering Iron will not cut it. I had a $600 Metcal iron and it
barely got enough heat to solder the wire. You would probably need a 100-250 watt soldering gun like your Grandfather used.
There are 3 grounding lugs right in that corner of the engine bay to use.
Something like this:
Weller 100-Watt/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit 9400PKS - The Home Depot
Keep your work space neat and clean with the selection of this highly durable Weller large size Soldering Gun Kit.www.homedepot.com
Like I said, I will do a full HOW-TO thread to put in the Modification forum.
Malodave
I have included the Template I made with links to the Parts I used:
If you have a sunroof you will need to double check if it works for you.
You can get it printed at a Reprographics shop or some place
that prints blueprints. When I printed it it cost me about $10-12 for the two.
I wanted cab lights for my Ram 2500 but after doing the research on cab over America, solar wireless lights, I was very hesitant, and they are pricey and unreliable!
I just finished the install on my own homemade solar cab over Lights. I have been experimenting with them for months. I tried remote controls, large batteries, large solar cells, and finally ended up with a very simple design. They charge all day and they come on automatically at night. They lasted for 14 hours straight. I had to put them in the dark garage to continue the test because when the sun comes up they automatically go into charging mode here’s what they look like. Next up is the Car Wash test! Hopefully they stay put and don’t launch like baseballs out of a pitching machine!
I just finished the install on my own homemade solar cab over Lights. I have been experimenting with them for months. I tried remote controls, large batteries, large solar cells, and finally ended up with a very simple design. They charge all day and they come on automatically at night. They lasted for 14 hours straight. I had to put them in the dark garage to continue the test because when the sun comes up they automatically go into charging mode here’s what they look like. Next up is the Car Wash test! Hopefully they stay put and don’t launch like baseballs out of a pitching machine!
