Bought a TT - Pretty sure my truck will be okay. Am I?

[Planepilot]

PlanePilot, welcome to the club! It will all work out, just a little sleuthing required...

First, would need to better understand the symptoms - since I’ve never driven on a bowl of jello, what exactly does that mean? Are we talking
- “dart-y”, where it seems to exaggerate steering inputs, or
-“wiggle-y” where it repeatedly cycles/circles/loops around when driving straight, or
- “vibe-y” where there seems to be a low frequency high amplitude vibration, or
- “oval-y” like a tire is out of round, or
- “grease-y” like your driving on a slippery road, or
- “marshmallow-y” like the rear floats up and down
- “unsteady” where you constantly have to make opposite steering corrections, or
- “confused” like the front and rear (or truck and trailer) seem to have minds of their own?

Second, what are the weights of the truck axles with no trailer?

Third, what are your tire pressures cold and unhitched?

Forth, was the TT and Anderson purchased new? Who set up the WDH?

Fifth, when driving down the road, what motion do the safety chains display (like when you're looking at the backup cam zoomed in)?

Sixth, how do the truck and trailer sit when hitched? Are they both level to the ground?

My Laramie, unhitched, last scaled at 3220 steer / 2720 drive, 5940 total (did have some stuff in it). Yours probably a little heavier. But assuming they‘re close, you’ve rig adds 80# to the steering axle, 420# on drive, so 500# tongue for a 5340# TT. But I’m betting your truck‘s a little heavier, so less than 9% tongue. Not sure that’s the reason, but I’d double check the WDH rigging, and whether you need a drop hitch.

And your thoughts on the effect of low profile tires are probably going in the right direction...my stock 20s and stock Duelers work fine with a 6800# TT.

(oh, and what do you fly?)

Thanks CJ7!
When I referenced the jello I meant "wiggly". Where it repeatedly cycles/circles/loops around when driving straight. That is a good description. It is almost "unsteady" but, after settling in and driving, I know I do not have to correct. Just ride it out. It is not severe, just "wiggles".

2) Weight unhitched with me in the truck at 200# and full fuel (33 gallons) is 3440#'s on the steering axle, 2560 on the drive axle, 6000#'s total. No trailer.
My yellow sticker payload is 1376#'s.

3) My tire pressure cold, unhitched is 36 psi. I use a digital Milton tire gage/inflator. Double checked with a pocket gage. (I can't help myself! I have a Quality Control Gage R&R background!)

4) Both the Andersen Hitch and TT were purchased new. I bought the hitch directly from Andersen and set it up myself. The setup is straight forward. (BTW, I used a calibrated torque wrench!) I am sure there is some tweaking to be done, but it is close. My plan is to weigh again with the WDH set up and re-weigh with the WDH off to see the effect of the weight distribution. An Andersen WDH is not a standard WDH. I am sure it isn't as effective transferring weight to the front axle as spring bars but should be more than adequate for my application.

5) The motion of the safety chains...? Now that is something I didn't think of! I will report back!

6) I spent sometime on making sure the TT and truck were level. I went into the Ram menu and put the truck into the "tire jack mode" to keep the leveling system from fighting me. When I took it off the tire jack mode, the suspension system only made a minor adjustment. Using the Ram Suspension System is sketchy to me.

7) And, most importantly, I fly anything with a piston engine in it. My wife and I are both flight instructors. We have own a Grumman Tiger and an Aeronca Champ 7EC.

 

[Planepilot]

Does your truck have the factory wiring harness for the brake control? If not your only choice is aftermarket.

Rule of thumb, I use for towing. Buy more truck then you need. Earlier comments on insurance is spot on. If your even close they will reject your claim.

I see too many trucks overloaded and I get away from those truck quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Highgear, My truck does have factory wiring and a factory brake controller. I can hear you about buying more truck than you need. In my case, I bought less trailer than I wanted. Trust me! Your way is WAY better! LOL!

 

[cj7]

Thanks CJ7!
When I referenced the jello I meant "wiggly". Where it repeatedly cycles/circles/loops around when driving straight. That is a good description. It is almost "unsteady" but, after settling in and driving, I know I do not have to correct. Just ride it out. It is not severe, just "wiggles".

2) Weight unhitched with me in the truck at 200# and full fuel (33 gallons) is 3440#'s on the steering axle, 2560 on the drive axle, 6000#'s total. No trailer.
My yellow sticker payload is 1376#'s.

3) My tire pressure cold, unhitched is 36 psi. I use a digital Milton tire gage/inflator. Double checked with a pocket gage. (I can't help myself! I have a Quality Control Gage R&R background!)

4) Both the Andersen Hitch and TT were purchased new. I bought the hitch directly from Andersen and set it up myself. The setup is straight forward. (BTW, I used a calibrated torque wrench!) I am sure there is some tweaking to be done, but it is close. My plan is to weigh again with the WDH set up and re-weigh with the WDH off to see the effect of the weight distribution. An Andersen WDH is not a standard WDH. I am sure it isn't as effective transferring weight to the front axle as spring bars but should be more than adequate for my application.

5) The motion of the safety chains...? Now that is something I didn't think of! I will report back!

6) I spent sometime on making sure the TT and truck were level. I went into the Ram menu and put the truck into the "tire jack mode" to keep the leveling system from fighting me. When I took it off the tire jack mode, the suspension system only made a minor adjustment. Using the Ram Suspension System is sketchy to me.

7) And, most importantly, I fly anything with a piston engine in it. My wife and I are both flight instructors. We have own a Grumman Tiger and an Aeronca Champ 7EC.

Should have known you did your homework.

Interesting to me that your Limited has such different unladen weight distribution. Similar rolling total at the scale, but mine has a stickered 1310# cap, and compared to yours, somehow mine has 170# shifted backwards. Maybe MFT, tonneau, ?

That said, your numbers make more sense now.

first thing I would do is up the rear tire pressure to at least 42-46 or more, at least much closer to their max load rated pressure. Tires can only carry their rated load at max rated pressure. And the lower the profile, the more it matters. When towing, I run my 20” rears at 42 cold and unhitched, would think your rrears should be higher. My station wagon has 35 series tires that run at 50 psi per factory sticker (!)

As for the equally important aviation element, super cool! I’m working on my CFI, and use my 182 as my airborne SUV...we should talk!

 

[Planepilot]

Should have known you did your homework.

Interesting to me that your Limited has such different unladen weight distribution. Similar rolling total at the scale, but mine has a stickered 1310# cap, and compared to yours, somehow mine has 170# shifted backwards. Maybe MFT, tonneau, ?

That said, your numbers make more sense now.

first thing I would do is up the rear tire pressure to at least 42-46 or more, at least much closer to their max load rated pressure. Tires can only carry their rated load at max rated pressure. And the lower the profile, the more it matters. When towing, I run my 20” rears at 42 cold and unhitched, would think your rrears should be higher. My station wagon has 35 series tires that run at 50 psi per factory sticker (!)

As for the equally important aviation element, super cool! I’m working on my CFI, and use my 182 as my airborne SUV...we should talk!

 

[Planepilot]

Yep! I should have checked the max PSI on my tires. It is 50 PSI. I will do a test drive tomorrow at 45. I am pretty sure that will do it. I‘ll report back.

CFI? I have been a CFI for more years than I will admit too. I had a 1969 C-182. Great airplane. Yes we should talk.

 

[LoNeStAr]

Maybe I missed it but did you set up the hitch with the trailer empty or weighted down the way it would be when you go camping?

 

[Planepilot]

Maybe I missed it but did you set up the hitch with the trailer empty or weighted down the way it would be when you go camping?

I started off empty since I was having a handling issue coming back from picking the TT up from the dealer. I also wanted to establish baseline axle weight numbers. If I wasn’t so payload challenged I would just load ‘er up and go. Once I solve the handling problem, I will load up for the road reset and reweigh.

 

[Planepilot]

Ugh! Maybe I should start another thread? All of this is about a TT...

I inflated my tires to 45 PSI. The wiggle is worse! Not a lot, but worse.
My safety chains sway side to side slowly.

Now for the surprising discovery. My rear passenger side tire is nearly worn smooth in the center. My truck has 20,200 miles. The front tires are good. The drivers side rear is worn more than the front, but still good. I did not rotate the tires. I’ll take some blame for that, but tires should last more than 20,000 miles. Why is the one tire wearing? I am a pretty conservative driver. I have towed a TT with this truck less than 200 miles. Is the wiggle and tire wear related?

 

[devildodge]

You should rotate your tires every 3 to 7000 miles. Tire wearing in the middle is usually overinflated.

If you spin your rear tires alot this could be the premature wear also.

Also check your brakes. 200 miles isnt a lot of towing...but the trucks are equipped with trailer sway control...they apply the brakes to try to stop it. With the sway you are describing...there is the possibility of your brakes working extra too.

None of this could be an issue either...but worth the check.

I would invest in some LT tires. C or D would be fine..but you might find the E rated to be the cheapest and easiest to find.

The original tires are not known for getting alot of miles. 20k is sometimes the nature of the beast.

Have you checked weights with a CAT scale?

Do you have one side of the camper loaded more than the other?

Ia your truck loaded to one side more than the other?

Are you carrying bikes or generators on the rear of the camper?

 

[should_have]

I hate to hijack this thread but I feel Planepilot started it first . Devildoge has graciously explained in detail the meaning of GVWR, Front & Rear GAWR and GCWR as how it pertains to The Helpful Badger which started the thread.

Planepilot, I too sometimes experience the wiggle you speak off. You mention that the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch “it isn't as effective transferring weight to the front axle as spring bars but should be more than adequate for my application”.you can tighten up bushing/nut/chain combination to transfer more weight to the steer axle but don't believe that will eliminate the wiggle. I have 18” wheels on my truck and run 47psi front and back. I got all winter trying to decide what to modify on my truck to eliminate the wiggle and uncomfortable feeling during windy conditions. Like you mention you are trained to keep driving strait and the trailer will follow. Since you have the air system, I may lean toward buying a Hellwig Swag Bar prior to Air Bags or replacement Coil Springs. My Tires are Goodyear Fortitude 275/65R18. You certainly can wiggle the rear of the truck sitting by it self vary easily when pushing on the rear sideways. So maybe I will keep tires in the equation but I only have 20 some thousand miles on my 2019 RAM QUAD CAB. Yellow Sticker 1,807lb. Steer Axle 3360, Drive Axle 3540, Trailer 4920.

 

[cj7]

I hate to hijack this thread but I feel Planepilot started it first . Devildoge has graciously explained in detail the meaning of GVWR, Front & Rear GAWR and GCWR as how it pertains to The Helpful Badger which started the thread.

Planepilot, I too sometimes experience the wiggle you speak off. You mention that the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch “it isn't as effective transferring weight to the front axle as spring bars but should be more than adequate for my application”.you can tighten up bushing/nut/chain combination to transfer more weight to the steer axle but don't believe that will eliminate the wiggle. I have 18” wheels on my truck and run 47psi front and back. I got all winter trying to decide what to modify on my truck to eliminate the wiggle and uncomfortable feeling during windy conditions. Like you mention you are trained to keep driving strait and the trailer will follow. Since you have the air system, I may lean toward buying a Hellwig Swag Bar prior to Air Bags or replacement Coil Springs. My Tires are Goodyear Fortitude 275/65R18. You certainly can wiggle the rear of the truck sitting by it self vary easily when pushing on the rear sideways. So maybe I will keep tires in the equation but I only have 20 some thousand miles on my 2019 RAM QUAD CAB. Yellow Sticker 1,807lb. Steer Axle 3360, Drive Axle 3540, Trailer 4920.

Useful info, but a sway bar will make no difference when the truck is going straight/level.

The tire wear is an indicator of something. Upping the pressure making it worse suggested there’s a periodic side load that’s being amplified rather than attenuated (The smooth worn tires are providing less lateral friction when pumped up...).

can you have the Anderson set up for weight distribution but not anti-sway? Curious to know what it feels like then...

 

[should_have]

can you have the Anderson set up for weight distribution but not anti-sway? No that's not a option, the trailer ball is integrated/built into a cone shape that sit's in a brake (Sway Control) line housing. Planepilot mentioned he had borrowed a E2 hitch when he brought is camper home and it was worse then the Andersen! Then again the wiggle could be vary subject since he was used to it. I know on my last 650 mile trip home when I left Edisto Beach SC I had a lot of wiggle in the beginng and just ignored it, 65/70 mph. I'm thought I read on the internet, , that the wear pattern in the highway can cause the wiggling I experienced. It eventually went away or I got used to it. Just like my maiden trip this year with my new camper and truck, I felt like I had a lot of slow motion porposing. In my one year with this set-up and 1/2 dozen trips the Andersen Hitch set-up is very finicky and you can tell right away. Fortunately it's very easy to pull over and loosen or tighten the tension nut.

I hope Planepilot figures it out post back his results.

 

[Planepilot]

can you have the Anderson set up for weight distribution but not anti-sway? No that's not a option, the trailer ball is integrated/built into a cone shape that sit's in a brake (Sway Control) line housing. Planepilot mentioned he had borrowed a E2 hitch when he brought is camper home and it was worse then the Andersen! Then again the wiggle could be vary subject since he was used to it. I know on my last 650 mile trip home when I left Edisto Beach SC I had a lot of wiggle in the beginng and just ignored it, 65/70 mph. I'm thought I read on the internet, , that the wear pattern in the highway can cause the wiggling I experienced. It eventually went away or I got used to it. Just like my maiden trip this year with my new camper and truck, I felt like I had a lot of slow motion porposing. In my one year with this set-up and 1/2 dozen trips the Andersen Hitch set-up is very finicky and you can tell right away. Fortunately it's very easy to pull over and loosen or tighten the tension nut.

I hope Planepilot figures it out post back his results.

Here is where I am on this project. I will solve this and I will report back!

I stopped at the local tire shop (not a chain store). I swear, I thought I was talking to Devildodge! Lol! “Do you spin your tires?“ “ how are you loaded side to side?” “Have you been to the Cat Scales?” and then the kicker... “those OEM tires aren’t very good. 20,000 miles is about all you can expect!”

I need new tires. I can’t get LT Load Rated tires in “C” “D” or “E” in 22” tires. I ordered Continental AT’s that are 114H rated at 2,601# at 51 psi. In my heart, I know I should go with an LT tire but changing out the rims was more than I wanted to do. I have also ordered a Sureline Tongue Weight Scale and over this past weekend have loaded the trailer to travel (it was brand new and empty). I will be heading back to the Cat Scale Monday or Tuesday. My target tongue weight will be 13% of the trailer weight. I am going to start the setup over using the procedure from the Ram manual and the Anderson WDH video. I appreciate everyone’s input. I will let you know how it goes.

 

[should_have]

Here is where I am on this project. I will solve this and I will report back!

I stopped at the local tire shop (not a chain store). I swear, I thought I was talking to Devildodge! Lol! “Do you spin your tires?“ “ how are you loaded side to side?” “Have you been to the Cat Scales?” and then the kicker... “those OEM tires aren’t very good. 20,000 miles is about all you can expect!”

I need new tires. I can’t get LT Load Rated tires in “C” “D” or “E” in 22” tires. I ordered Continental AT’s that are 114H rated at 2,601# at 51 psi. In my heart, I know I should go with an LT tire but changing out the rims was more than I wanted to do. I have also ordered a Sureline Tongue Weight Scale and over this past weekend have loaded the trailer to travel (it was brand new and empty). I will be heading back to the Cat Scale Monday or Tuesday. My target tongue weight will be 13% of the trailer weight. I am going to start the setup over using the procedure from the Ram manual and the Anderson WDH video. I appreciate everyone’s input. I will let you know how it goes.

PlanePilot, since you seem very methodical in your set-up and if you have time at the Cat Scale. I will send you the $2 for a re-weigh to see the difference on your readings in Jack- Mode on vs Off, off which I assume when your air shocks changes your rear and front wheel well fender heights
On

 

[Willwork4truck]

We will start with the last question. No. You can not tow 10200lbs. You also can not within spec tow 8220lbs.

We have plenty of towing threads here. This is all explained numerous times. But...since I am bored. One more time

So you have a classic 4x4 5.7l with 3.21 gears

The numbers that do not change. They can be found on your door jamb. Except GCWR you have to get that from the chart.

GVWR is 6900. Front GAWR is 3900 Rear GAWR is 3900 and GCWR is 13800

Here is were algebra comes into play. The Max tow number is a play of words. It is everything you can add or hook to a base weight.

GCWR MINUS Base weight (GVWR minus payload eguals base weight) EQUALS max tow.

So your payload is on the door jamb also. This number is different for each truck. And changes with everything you add...or take away. This will get you your base weight.

GVWR minus payload equals base weight.

You didnt give the payload...but i can tell you what it is. Using these formulas.

So let's start.

13800 minus base weight equals max tow.

6900 minus base weight equals payload.

You said your max tow was 8220

13800 minus 8220 equals base weight...5580

6900 minus 5580 equals payload...1320

Do you see that you can not hook a 8220lb trailer to your truck and tow in all conditions? 8220 is your passengers...tongue weight...hitch...gear...and trailer.


So. You said the UVW of the trailer is 5653.

This includes tongue weight. Which is usually about 13% on a camper. So 731 lbs. Most people add 1000lbs minimum to their camper. So loaded your TW will be over 860lbs.

Let's show you 2 numbers. 5580 plus 5630 is 11210. So you can still add 2590lbs. The trick is the truck is limited to 1320.

So hooked up to the trailer empty you have 731lbs of tongue weight. Which leaves you with 589lbs. Your hitch will weigh about 100lbs. So 489 left for family and stuff. But the trailer will have stuff in it too. So there are your numbers. Depending on your family size and cargo...gonna be real close. You could possibly find you are over. Get to a CAT scale and be sure you are not over Gross Axle Rating. Then you will know if you are fine.

Now. Onto the other question. The weight distribution hitch does not allow you to tow more. It transfers weight. You are recommended to have one over 500lbs TW and 5000lb trailer. You may find the 1200lb WDH may be too much though...but it should work.

As far as the VIN decoder. It tells you the basics of your truck. Year cab and bed size engine and 4x4 etc.

You can get your Build sheet that tells you everything your truck has

FCA RAM

fcacommunity.force.com

Please consider making a sticky of this as its not only an explanation but it gives others the formula to determine their rig’s tow ability. Sometimes it’s very hard to pull the proper data out of long towing threads...

 

[Willwork4truck]

I know most guys will laugh at this and say nobody cares. But also take into consideration that if anything would happen and the insurance finds out you were over your payload/gvwr... its the easiest one for them to bail out of... Regardless of what happened or or if you were at fault or not... And trust me they do find those things, someone in my family is a case lawyer for a large insurance and she handles that kind of **** all day long...

Not to get into a *****ing match about the oft-mentioned “your insurance company might/will not cover you if overloaded” but for 9 years I was a casualty (read liability) insurance adjuster with a nationwide company (Safeco). Never once do I remember getting out of a 3rd party liability claim or a 1st party collision claim due to the insured having an overloaded vehicle. Regardless if the vehicle had bald tires, no horn, had failed the state inspection or was being driven in a reckless manner, we paid. Period. Now that was 1982-1991 and if that has all changed (doubtful) in the last 25-30 years then whatever.

When in doubt, read your insurance contract. Even 20 years ago they were being written in plain English.

I will attach an article entitled “How to Read Your Car Insurance Policy“ from lelandwest.com:

Exclusions​

A car insurance policy is what is known as an ''Open Peril'' policy, meaning everything that can happen to you is covered except what is on a very specific list of uncovered exclusions. That exclusion list is below (note this list covers only the Liability section, and each major coverage has its own list of exclusions).

1. You are not covered for Bodily Injury or Property Damage Liability if you cause the accident or loss on purpose.
2. You have no Property Damage coverage for your own property or for your own property that is being transported by you (insurance is to pay for damage you do to others, not for damage you cause to yourself. Also, property coverage is what homeowner's insurance is for. This exclusion prevents you from paying twice for the same coverage in two different policies).
3. You have no Property Damage coverage for property rented to you, used by you or in your care. However this does not apply to a damaged residence or private garage. An example of this would be as follows: You are renting a home and you bump into your own garage door. As a home owner you would look to your homeowner's policy for coverage. But if you are a renter, coverage from your auto insurance policy should apply.
4. You are not covered for Bodily Injury Liability if one of your employees is injured while working for you (thats what Workers Comp insurance is for). However if the injured employee is a domestic employee (i.e. a maid or nanny) then there is coverage unless workers' compensation benefits are required or available for that domestic employee.
5. You are not covered for Bodily Injury or Property Damage Liability if your car is used as a ''public or livery conveyance'' ... translation: a taxi, bus or limo service. Cab drivers and the like represent much higher risk and there are special, commercial policies meant to take on that sort of risk. A car pool where for example everyone chips in for gas is exempt from this exclusion.
6. You are not covered for Bodily Injury or Property Damage Liability while you are employed in the business of selling, servicing, repairing, storing or parking cars, trucks, vans, buses etc. This includes road testing and delivery.
   Examples:
   If you are a car salesperson and you are injured while on the job, your personal auto policy provides no coverage. Thats a job for your employer's workers compensation policy. The same goes if you are a mechanic: If injured on the job that risk is covered by workers compensation. If you are a valet parking attendant, same deal: Thats what workers comp is for. Just because you work with cars doesn't mean you have coverage on your ''personal'' auto policy. If on the other hand you are any of the above and are driving your covered auto on your lunch break to a burger joint, thats where your personal auto policy kicks in.
7. You are not covered for Bodily Injury or Property Damage Liability while you are driving a vehicle in any business pursuit other than farming or ranching. Some lines of work require you to drive a vehicle that is inherently more hazardous than others. A fuel tanker or a garbage truck for example. However if your business requires the use of a regular private passenger car or van (with or without a trailer) this exclusion does not apply. This means someone like a traveling salesperson is not required to get a special commercial policy (although they must disclose their use of the vehicle on the insurance application if asked, and likely will pay a higher rate).
8. there is no coverage if someone uses a car without a reasonable belief that they are entitled to do so. Translation: Stolen cars are not covered by insurance. If one of your ''family members'' uses a car owned by you then this exclusion doesn't apply.
9. If you are an insured under a Nuclear Energy Liability policy, or your Nuclear Energy Liability policy has paid out all of its limits and you are thus no longer insured, your auto insurance is not available to fall back upon.
10. There are additional exclusions based on the type of vehicle you own. Anything with fewer than four wheels is excluded. The idea being no motorcycles should be included on an auto insurance policy, and require a special policy designed for them. Similarly, if your vehicle is an off-roader (i.e. sand rails, dedicated dune buggies or dirt bikes) it too is excluded. Such vehicles require dedicated policies designed for their unique use profile. With that said, trailers and golf carts aren't excluded, and if you are operating one of these prohibited vehicles during a medical emergency, the exclusion doesn't apply.” End of copied portion.

Some policies (most actually) will not cover “intentional harm” such as when you are using your vehicle as a weapon. Thats got absolutely nothing to do with you knowing that you are “overloaded”.

Here’s an article from a Bodily Injury attorney’s website specifically discussing the “intentional acts” exclusion: (pickelsimerllc.com)

The “Intentional Act” Exception to Insurance.​

Occasionally, I come across a situation where someone is injured as a result of an intentional act such as an assault. Other situations arise where someone was injured in a “road-rage” incident. An injury can even occur as a result of someone who intentionally strikes someone with their car. In these situations there is a concern whether there will be any insurance coverage for the incident. The answer depends on the type of coverage and if you are the injured victim or the actor.
Liability Coverage: Every auto insurance policy provides for liability coverage which provides coverage when that person causes a car accident which results in injury or damage. However, almost every liability policy will have an exception for “intentional acts of the insured.” For example, if you have just had an argument with your friend and get into your vehicle to leave, you cannot intentionally run-over them with your car. Not only is this a potential crime but there is a risk that your insurance company will deny coverage for injuries you caused because of your "intentional acts." In this situation you will not have the benefit of your insurance company trying to resolve the claim or paying any judgment against you. You will also be left exposed to a claim by the injured party without your insurance company providing you an attorney and a defense.
Other Coverages: If you are the victim of an intentional act, then you will still have coverage under your own policy, such as Personal Injury Protection (PIP) and Uninsured/Under-Insured motorist coverage (UM/UIM). PIP is sometimes referred to as "No-fault insurance" because coverage applies regardless of who is at fault. UM/UIM applies when the at-fault party is does not have insurance, is not covered by insurance, or when the liability policy does not provide enough coverage for the damages and injuries.
For example, if someone intentionally hits you with their car and you have bodily injuries, you can make a liability claim under the other driver’s policy . However, after investigation their insurance will likely deny coverage because the driver acted intentionally to harm you. Once their insurance company denies coverage that driver now becomes an “uninsured motorist.” You may then proceed to seek compensation under the UM portion of your own policy.
This also applies for PIP coverage. Since you were injured due to an automobile collision, you can file a claim under your PIP coverage. You would not be excluded from coverage since you did not commit the itnentional act.
This is the takeaway: If you are the one who intentionally injured another, then you will likely not have coverage from your insurance company. If you are the injured party then the only insurance coverage that may apply is your own.” End of copied portion.

Please folks stop repeating this myth of an overloaded truck will get you denied coverage. I’d have had a really easy job if I could have shown that any overloaded or unsafe vehicle was a deniable action...

 

[silver billet]

Not to get into a *****ing match about the oft-mentioned “your insurance company might/will not cover you if overloaded” but for 9 years I was a casualty (read liability) insurance adjuster with a nationwide company (Safeco). Never once do I remember getting out of a 3rd party liability claim or a 1st party collision claim due to the insured having an overloaded vehicle. Regardless if the vehicle had bald tires, no horn, had failed the state inspection or was being driven in a reckless manner, we paid. Period. Now that was 1982-1991 and if that has all changed (doubtful) in the last 25-30 years then whatever.

I will respect your knowledge/experience in this matter; however there are 2 other things to keep in mind IMHO. First, overloaded trailers causing accidents can do far worse damage then just to insurance claims, for example, loss of life or seriously wrecking one or more lives. Secondly, I have to think that if the wrong lawyer is involved and there is loss of life or damage to life, they are going to "end yours" financially, and take every penny you have. It's reckless and irresponsible, just like drunk driving.

It's also preventable. If you have the money to buy all these toys, then you have the money to do it right and not cut corners like some cowboy thinking you can handle it and know what you're doing.

 

[Willwork4truck]

That’s exactly true.
I don’t condone using a truck that is over its stated limits, even if there have been suspicions that trucks are over-engineered for the makers liability reasons...

I’ve always been a member of the “get more truck than you think you need” club. When I did tow (years ago) it was always with a 2500 or 3500. Most recently the growing size and weight of 5th wheels, TT and truck campers has pushed some owners to use a 4500 where ten years ago a dually 3500 was more than enough.

What’s also preventable is not spending thousands of dollars on mods to enhance the truck’s suspension and handling characteristics in order to tow an overly large trailer. It’s much simpler to just buy the next size up truck, yet for reasons known only to the owners, most don’t.
(Could be that the incremental costs of mods in order to carry/tow more is easier to deal with than ponying up multi-thousands when you are at the dealership. The ride doesn’t suffer as much either, then there’s the pride factor... “I can do this, no I didn’t make a mistake when I bought the 1500”.)

I totally agree that when a person causes a serious wreck it brings with it damages that mere dollars can’t fix (but for years I had noticed that rubbing insurance Benjamins over an injury seemed to take much of it away). Not having a competent counsel can also affect things very negatively. All true.

 

[Reverse]

I have nothing to add really, other than to say it is very refreshing to read from an owner who does his homework and methodically tries to work his way through a problem. So many posts on forums like this are from owners who don't even bother to read the manual before posting.

 

[The Helpful Badger]

I have nothing to add really, other than to say it is very refreshing to read from an owner who does his homework and methodically tries to work his way through a problem. So many posts on forums like this are from owners who don't even bother to read the manual before posting.

Thank you, and you're welcome I suppose! The real magic is the math provided by devildodge. I wish I had known this knowledge before I bought my truck, but either way it is good to know how to find the numbers!!

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