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Bilstein 5100

Zeeya said:
I ordered through Bilsteinlifts.com. Chatted with an agent and informed them of what I was looking for. They were backordered so I got on a waiting list. Week and a 1/2 later, I got an email that they had received 8 sets and to order quickly if I wanted them.. 2 days later in my driveway. THIS IS FOR A 2019 RAM REBEL. IT GIVES YOU THE SAME PART NUMBER FOR A NON REBEL, BUT IT COMES WITH A PERCH TO INSTALL FOR YOUR CIRCLA CLAMP TO SIT ON IF YOU HAVE A NON REBEL. YOU DON'T USE THE PERCH FROM BILSTEIN ON THE REBEL

This part number was taken from the Bilstein web site. When I went entered all of my information in and listed Rebel, it spit this part number back at me. It is the same part number I ordered through Bilsteinlifts.com​

B8 5100 (RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTABLE) - SHOCK ABSORBER​

Part Number: 24-300872
Bilstein B8 5100 0-2.6" Front Lift Adjustable Shocks for 2019-2020 Ram 1500 New body style1$264.00
Subtotal:$264.00
Shipping:Free
Click to expand...

What setting height did you install yours to?
 
BlackBeard1790 said:
Honestly, I have noticed much difference with the ride, but I haven’t driven that much since installing the new shocks. If you go with the ORP springs and set the shocks at a lower setting, then at least you can give yourself more opportunity to raise the shock later on if you end up wanting more height. Also, you will be putting less “pre-load” on your springs if you choose the ORP springs. Meaning, by having to set the shock at a higher level, you would have to compress your stock springs more. Overall, I think you’d be happier with the shocks and the ORP. Worth the investment!
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I may be wrong (but I don’t think I am), but since the 5100 itself is the same length for both regular trucks and ORP trucks you will have the same preload on either setup. Only difference is say for example a non ORP truck goes with level 5 for 1.7” lift, whereas an ORP truck goes with level 3 for the same lift, they both have the same amount of preload. This is why you can’t use level 6 or 7 on ORP springs, because you would be adding way too much preload.
 
Mclovinnnnn said:
I may be wrong (but I don’t think I am), but since the 5100 itself is the same length for both regular trucks and ORP trucks you will have the same preload on either setup. Only difference is say for example a non ORP truck goes with level 5 for 1.7” lift, whereas an ORP truck goes with level 3 for the same lift, they both have the same amount of preload. This is why you can’t use level 6 or 7 on ORP springs, because you would be adding way too much preload.
Click to expand...
You are Correct. If the person chose the appropriate setting for the same/approximate height, the springs would have the same pre-load. But if they left the setting the same (I.e. level 5) and then swapped from stock spring to ORP, then there would be a difference. You bring up a good point that folks would need to take into consideration when choosing a setting level on the shocks.
 
Did the 5100 install over the weekend. This thread very helpful...thx to all. Much of the following probably redundant, but here goes. Decided to go with the Mopar lift kit UCAs. Two reasons: 4deg gain of travel over OE UCA (per my digital angle gauge) and stock appearance (no hassles @dealer). Tools that were very helpful (to me anyway), a pass through metric socket set, an 18mm offset box wrench (more on that below), and 1/2" deep socket set which covers 16-23mm.

Also a ball joint separator tool. Loosened the UCA bj to knuckle nut, then whacked the knuckle with 5lb sledge. Nada. Since I wasn't reusing the OE UCA, tried the pickle fork. Nada. Had to modify my trusty HF bj separator tool a bit as it wouldn't reach the end of the bj stud when mounted on knuckle pad. Shaved the end of the lever to gain more height to fit over the bj stud hex and enlarged the bj slot. That worked...whew.

bjtool.jpg

Used OEMTools 25550 Strut Compressor which did the job after shaving the lock pins to fit the Rebel springs. First strut manually tightened. Next day: very sore elbow. Second strut used air impact along with tape to mark progress and insure equal compression. In my case the springs needed approx 3.5in compression to fit the 5100's on 5th slot with the upper shock stud flush with the mounting plate. I was using Water Fowlers vid for a reference. I believe he said his springs needed minor compression to disassemble. Not my case at all. As everyone (and Fowler) has emphasized, be sure to clock the spring/strut assembly before disassembling. If you don't get the clocking correct it won't mount...DAMHIK. Front wheel well height before (38.5" both) and after (40.5" both) confirms ~level as both rears are also 40.5".

Managed to re-torque everything OK, except, how did you guys torque the swaybar -> LCA nut ? Got it as tight as I could with the 18mm offset box wrench while holding the bj stud hex with a socket. When I tried to torque wrench it further, the bj would turn. The pass through socket didn't work here because of limited access.

Swaybar_LCAnut.jpg


frrt_r.jpg
 
All of this makes perfect sense, I never thought of it like that.
On a non ORP do you think there would be a significant difference in ride quality between setting 5 and 6?
I think my new plan is fronts on either 5 or 6 and adding 5100’s in the rear with ORP springs to give me some rake. Also hellwig sway bar.
 
Last edited:
I posted earlier with my Bilstein 5100’s on setting #4 and my truck was almost perfectly level. I believe the front was actually .25” lower than the front. I ended up getting 35’s put on it today. 295/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers with Moto Metal MO970 20x10 -18 offset wheels. I still ended up with a little rubbing on the front tire wheel well liners. The tires rubbed on the front and back of the liner. My immediate reaction was to raise the Bilsteins another level, but instead I decided to just trim the liners. Took it out for a spin and no more rubbing!
 

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BlackBeard1790 said:
I posted earlier with my Bilstein 5100’s on setting #4 and my truck was almost perfectly level. I believe the front was actually .25” lower than the front. I ended up getting 35’s put on it today. 295/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers with Moto Metal MO970 20x10 -18 offset wheels. I still ended up with a little rubbing on the front tire wheel well liners. The tires rubbed on the front and back of the liner. My immediate reaction was to raise the Bilsteins another level, but instead I decided to just trim the liners. Took it out for a spin and no more rubbing!
Click to expand...
BlackBeard---- Trucks look great,
 
20Ram4X said:
Thanks, I'll drive it a few miles and retorque everything.
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Were you able to resolve your clunking? I have bilsteins at #5 on my ORP and my passenger side clunks when it is full droop it seems like. I haven't retorqued everything as im debating dropping down to setting #4.
 
Anyone install rear 5100’s?..


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NewLove said:
Is that a Rebel?… did you lift the rear?.. if so with what method?..


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Click to expand...
This is a Laramie with the off road package. Truck details are in signature. The rear was not lifted at all. It stayed the same height as stock. If I were to raise the rear id go with a 1" puck under the coil spring.
 
z0n3 said:
This is a Laramie with the off road package. Truck details are in signature. The rear was not lifted at all. It stayed the same height as stock. If I were to raise the rear id go with a 1" puck under the coil spring.
Click to expand...

The ride any different?..


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