Best Oil for Hemi "Tick"

[St-na]

Mobil 1 0w40 probably wears the best as its eurospec with high amounts of ZDDP but the downside of high amounts of ZDDP is that it kills catalytic convertors which is something the delvac crowd may want to pay attention to

The Effects of Zinc Oil Additives on Older Engines | Rislone

Almost everyone who’s into cars has an older vehicle that they love. Whether it’s the feeling that they get behind the wheel or the way the car looks parked in their driveway, they pour their time and effort into maintaining the car and keeping it looking like it’s just been driven off of the...

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[BowDown]

???
Mobil 1 EP isn't the same as Mobil 1 Euro spec 0w40, two entirely different oils. That said, I wouldn't use any extended protection oil nor would I leave an oil in longer than 7K miles
The guy seems to like the TBN number so...

 

[Spendo81]

Alright, so we are all going to do this then?

0W-20 full synthetic every 5K miles is your best bet for longevity on these engines.

There are some engines that will have bad pins that lead to lifter failure, that's going to happen to 5-10% of these engines regardless of what oil you use. But during the most critical time of engine lubrication, the cold start, you want that lubrication to reach those pins as soon as possible.

I have a 2023 1500 with the 5.7L and the manufacturer recommends 0W-20. However I live in Texas and drive a lot, around 25k miles per year, and have always wondered if I should run something more appropriate for heat. My understanding is 0W-20 is thinner for cold weather and to improve MPG. Maybe 5W-30 or 0W-40. Thoughts?

 

[frisby5]

I have a 2023 1500 with the 5.7L and the manufacturer recommends 0W-20. However I live in Texas and drive a lot, around 25k miles per year, and have always wondered if I should run something more appropriate for heat. My understanding is 0W-20 is thinner for cold weather and to improve MPG. Maybe 5W-30 or 0W-40. Thoughts?

I live in mesa,AZ i just put in 5w-30 Mobil 1 fs , temps here get hot and im also towing now TH with RZR so i need heavier oil ,when i was going up the hills temps were hotter than i liked and i was running 0-20 .

 

[Mr.Grid]

This time around I am doing oil chages no later than at 40% on the oil life monitor and using mopar filters and Castrol Edge 0W20. Im in the camp that keeping the oil fresh is probably the best thing you can do to improve the longevity of these engines rather than any particular brand or viscosity for normal use.

Changing oil more often is the wisest choice imho. I tow 7k# over 60% of the time and change oil at 50% oil indicated or 5k miles whichever is first. The majority of time I’m changing at 4300 – 4500 miles indicating 50%. In late November I made a 3k mile round trip towing and had 2500+ miles on the oil prior to leaving. I changed it knowing it’d be over 50%. CHEAP maintenance, $40 tops diy. I use 0w20 (any MS-6395 rated synthetic) and bought a case of MO-339 filters. Have over 44k miles and changed oil/ filter 11 times. Just bought another case of filters.
0w20 or 5w20 is the same protection. You need to move to 5w30 if you feel you need more.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

Have you looked at your oil temperature or coolant temperature? I know mine reads the same if it is 5 degrees outside or 95 degrees. It doesn't really change.

Outside air temperature has little to do with the heat of air/gasoline mix burning in your motor.

 

[boogielander]

I have a 2023 1500 with the 5.7L and the manufacturer recommends 0W-20. However I live in Texas and drive a lot, around 25k miles per year, and have always wondered if I should run something more appropriate for heat. My understanding is 0W-20 is thinner for cold weather and to improve MPG. Maybe 5W-30 or 0W-40. Thoughts?

im in socal. i run 0w-40 when i can find it and 5w-40 when i can't.
during my trip to Alaska and Arctic Ocean in August/ September last year I ran 5-40 and then 5-30 when the shop in Anchorage couldn't get their hands on it and then 0-20 when I was in Montana on the return leg because the shop only followed what the book says.
Engine was nice and smooth during my 8-10 hours of driving daily on the first leg of the trip with 5-40, and ambient temp was rarely under 70F.
When 5-30 went in and I was really up north getting constant high 20s to high 30s Fahrenheit, engine ran fine but not as happy as running 5-40.
When 0-20 went in while i was in Montana until almost 4 months after I got back home, I did notice the engine doesn't sound as happy and during desert runs (even in winter).

So, 0-40 or 5-30 in TX is fine.

II also noticed these 5.7s run a lot hotter than similar displacement engines from other manufacturers, that's why I went 0-40 and 5-40 in the first place.

 

[Mountain Whiskey]

So was the engine oil temperature any different during any of the drives you took in different temperatures?

If it was, take it in and get it fixed.

 

[boogielander]

So was the engine oil temperature any different during any of the drives you took in different temperatures?

If it was, take it in and get it fixed.

me? nope oil temp is always at the normal spot.
every morning while out north I also remote start the truck and have a ciggy before i hop in to drive too, get the engine and the cab warmed up a bit. mostly for the seat warmers to get the cushion toasty though lol

 

[Spendo81]

I live in mesa,AZ i just put in 5w-30 Mobil 1 fs , temps here get hot and im also towing now TH with RZR so i need heavier oil ,when i was going up the hills temps were hotter than i liked and i was running 0-20 .

I don't tow very often and when I do it's usually a small dump trailer, maybe 6k lbs max. Last year I added a Vararam CAI and noticed the engine temp during summer months, 100 degrees regularly, was running really hot. Pretty sure engine temp was 250+, which seemed high.

 

[Spendo81]

So was the engine oil temperature any different during any of the drives you took in different temperatures?

If it was, take it in and get it fixed.

Only twice was my oil temp high. Both times it was over 100 degrees outside (oil temp was around 250F) and I was driving 80 MPH.

 

[Mr Pang]

The engine oil cap on my 2023 5.7 Ram says 0w-20, and OEM recommends 5w-20. Has anyone else seen an issue like this.

 

[HSKR R/T]

The engine oil cap on my 2023 5.7 Ram says 0w-20, and OEM recommends 5w-20. Has anyone else seen an issue like this.

Your owners manual recommends 0w-20 just like your oil cap. That was a change in 2022 I believe.

 

[RedFred]

In my last Ram hemi I used Redline 5w30. Traded the truck in with 207k miles on it and no issues or lifter ticks. Now I have the twin turbo 6 in my 2025 and I am using Mobil 1 5w30. I use 5w30 in all my cars and trucks.

 

[cerbo]

Interesting facts, Ford Mustang changed the recommendation from 20w to 30W on the same engine. As far as the tick Mustang owners found Ceratec additive to quiet the tick to those that have it. I have no ticks on my Ram or Coyote (yet). I use 30w and change oil before the recommended time using synthetic oil.

edit/. I forgot that 24 Mazda cx90 has 20w recommended in the US. Dealer uses 30w (in the US). 30w used in other countries .

I really doubt it matters but one must be better and the debate goes on and on and on.

 

[Syrio]

im in socal. i run 0w-40 when i can find it and 5w-40 when i can't.
during my trip to Alaska and Arctic Ocean in August/ September last year I ran 5-40 and then 5-30 when the shop in Anchorage couldn't get their hands on it and then 0-20 when I was in Montana on the return leg because the shop only followed what the book says.
Engine was nice and smooth during my 8-10 hours of driving daily on the first leg of the trip with 5-40, and ambient temp was rarely under 70F.
When 5-30 went in and I was really up north getting constant high 20s to high 30s Fahrenheit, engine ran fine but not as happy as running 5-40.
When 0-20 went in while i was in Montana until almost 4 months after I got back home, I did notice the engine doesn't sound as happy and during desert runs (even in winter).

So, 0-40 or 5-30 in TX is fine.

II also noticed these 5.7s run a lot hotter than similar displacement engines from other manufacturers, that's why I went 0-40 and 5-40 in the first place.

I find it interesting you are using a 0w40 or 5w40 weight. I have heard a lot of people going to 5w30 specifically redline. My warranty just ended and am wanting to try using a thicker oil. I made a post recently about hemi tick after towing. (not the exhaust manifolds they were just replace a month ago) I have always ran PUP 5w20 every 6000 kms (3700miles) and I have about 92000kms (57000 miles) I was planning on using the PUP 5w30 but am curious about going to a 0w40. Have you disabled your MDS? 0w40 also came on my radar recently after hearing about the GM 6.2 recall where they are changing the oil from a 0w20 to 0w40 to provide better crankshaft bearing lubrication. What brand of oil are you using?

 

[HSKR R/T]

I find it interesting you are using a 0w40 or 5w40 weight. I have heard a lot of people going to 5w30 specifically redline. My warranty just ended and am wanting to try using a thicker oil. I made a post recently about hemi tick after towing. (not the exhaust manifolds they were just replace a month ago) I have always ran PUP 5w20 every 6000 kms (3700miles) and I have about 92000kms (57000 miles) I was planning on using the PUP 5w30 but am curious about going to a 0w40. Have you disabled your MDS? 0w40 also came on my radar recently after hearing about the GM 6.2 recall where they are changing the oil from a 0w20 to 0w40 to provide better crankshaft bearing lubrication. What brand of oil are you using?

Unless you need to extreme cold weather properties of a 0w, there is no real benefit of running it. And the whole GM recall is due more to poor manufacturing quality, then the spec'd oil. Going to a heavier weight oil is a bandaid to the bigger issue, but the cheaper option for GM, as it costs them every little to tell owners to use a heavier oil, than actually fixing the mechanical issue

 

[silver billet]

I find it interesting you are using a 0w40 or 5w40 weight. I have heard a lot of people going to 5w30 specifically redline. My warranty just ended and am wanting to try using a thicker oil. I made a post recently about hemi tick after towing. (not the exhaust manifolds they were just replace a month ago) I have always ran PUP 5w20 every 6000 kms (3700miles) and I have about 92000kms (57000 miles) I was planning on using the PUP 5w30 but am curious about going to a 0w40. Have you disabled your MDS? 0w40 also came on my radar recently after hearing about the GM 6.2 recall where they are changing the oil from a 0w20 to 0w40 to provide better crankshaft bearing lubrication. What brand of oil are you using?

If you're towing, I'd definitely be running 5w-30. Redline is popular, personally I'm running HPL as its a better oil.

The 6.2 recall is due in part to rough surface finishes, the rougher the surface the higher viscosity you need to get that film. But we can apply this same reasoning to our hemis, the cam lobs are often worn down and it starts with surface delamination of some sort, a higher weight oil can mitigate this all or in part.

I've run mobil 1 0w-40 in my truck, absolutely 0 issues with the viscosity and MDS, but I don't use MDS either I just let it turn on a few times to see what would happen. I just don't think Mobil 1 is in the same class as HPL.

 

[Syrio]

If you're towing, I'd definitely be running 5w-30. Redline is popular, personally I'm running HPL as its a better oil.

The 6.2 recall is due in part to rough surface finishes, the rougher the surface the higher viscosity you need to get that film. But we can apply this same reasoning to our hemis, the cam lobs are often worn down and it starts with surface delamination of some sort, a higher weight oil can mitigate this all or in part.

I've run mobil 1 0w-40 in my truck, absolutely 0 issues with the viscosity and MDS, but I don't use MDS either I just let it turn on a few times to see what would happen. I just don't think Mobil 1 is in the same class as HPL.

I had planned to switch to the 5w30 but first I have an appointment tomorrow to pull off the valve cover to inspect the lifters. ugh.

 

[RAL]

If your cam lobes or lifters fail it is because of improper hardening. There is no magic oil in any viscosity that will fix the issue; they will fail because the issue is metallurgical - a defect.

Oil viscosity spec is based on main bearing clearances and expected operating temperature in the sump. 5w20 will be fine unless you are towing loads at the limits in the mountains, or something on that level of extremity. The measurable difference in a 20 and a 30 at operating temperature is negligible. If 5w30 lets you sleep better and you are out of warranty, have at it. But in warranty if you have to document maintenance you are out of the recommended spec and introducing needless risk.

I completely understand the fact that a lot of enthusiasts don’t like the epa messing with oil viscosity specs. But between the tighter main bearing clearances, tighter piston skirt to wall clearances, microfinishing and the generally higher precision you find in modern motors, the risks of the lower viscosity oils has been pretty much reduced to zero.

None of this means use a 20 wt in an engine spec’d for something greater, but you will find that those are generally very heavy duty applications or high performance vehicles where there is a higher potential for extreme sump temperatures, so you want to make sure viscosity stays adequate to maintain the wedge of lubrication necessary to prevent the crankshaft from landing.