Base 6 speaker upgrade options?

[Bansheeman6100]

So what are you recommending? 2 sets of the D4S, skip the rear tweeters and use one of their amps?

 

[rick619]

yeah option 2 comes with the adaptors for the tweeters to go in the place of the factory mids in the dash corners. front center is not really needed IMO with the dsr1 dsp you get time alignment for staging. i went all out with that setup it gets louder than most want to get. crew cab has alot of enclosure options if you have quad cab fox acoustics is really the only wat to go. i have a quad cab it's pretty loud and clear with alot of bass. i like it the infinity's got great reviews on amazon from ram owners i guy with the alpine system complained i guarantee it's because he kept the factory alpine amp. my door 6.5's are 2 + 7/8 i believe the 3 inch would not be a problem.
i don't want to step on toes but my friend at work has a 2023 that had that alpine or the harmon with the headliner speakers we thought it was not up to our par so. he dropped his truck off at a good shop in my area paid 5k for a all jl setup. custom box for 2 jl 10's rear doors front components and a 900 dollar jl 5 channel amp kept the 8.5 screen. sounds pretty good at 5k i hope so. he thinks mine sounds better i got about 1600 in mine but i did my own install if i had the money i would have just paid to have it done with my equipment. i would not add headliner speakers. he abandoned the center and headliner speakers.
i look like a D4S fan boy lol i have been a fosgate guy for over 25 years. quality and price D4S is hard to beat
i got this amp for 250 and it's unblameable. very powerful. as in i can't believe it's a 5 channel that is doing it all. look at the measurements and break out a tape measure. the pick makes it look huge but it's not really that big.
Down4Sound JP95 RED | 1500W RMS - 5 Channel Amplifier

That amp does look pretty large. Same with many of the sub boxes I've seen.

I'd like to get a modestly sized amp and pretty small sub. I don't want to take up all the room under the rear seats. I'd like to keep some inside storage for when I fold the seats up. Most likely a single 8" sub. Possibly a 10", but I'd have to see how large the box would be. I also don't want anything to be visible if someone is looking in the windows.

 

[1791]

you have a crew cab so you have alot of room IMO but the e torque battery limits the amp mounting mine is where the battery would go. i mounted my amp behind the back seat you can't see it at all. as far as storage i have a hard bed cover and a bed so i didn't care about that however i get it some people want some under seat storage. with a quad cab that box in my truck that looks huge is only 2 cubic feet the minimum for my woofers the only thing i could find that would work in that space was Sundown. sounds like you should go with a 8 or a 10 really the 8 will work out best for space if that's a big concern. i went with the infinity's in the rear doors and the component's up front to be honest if no one is gonna be in the rear i would leave them out. if someone is in the back seat you most likely not going to have the music on at least i don't because normally there is conservation happening and music taste vairy so much. over the years i almost always delete rear speakers. plus that way a 4 channel amp can run the woofer bridged and the 2 channels left run the front. D4S has 1 more tiny powerhouse the JP3. it's super powerful and compact for a sub but you can go with alot of brands that will do the job. you could get this and a sundown 8 or go with the 10 set up i think you will be quite happy with the 8 though. if you go 4 channel this is good jp84. i think you should got to a reputable shop for the install unless you really confident i have done many installs and once worked at a car audio dealer installing so i did mine and it was a PIA. you should go with a small efficient amp it don't need to be super powerfull i'm thinking jp84. if you get a dsr1 it has a optional and bass knob.
dsr1 350
box 265
woofer 129
rca's and wire let's budget 100
6x9 70
componets 250.
amp?
=$1164 plus install and whatever amp you choose. it will sound lovely!

BLACK 8" SINGLE PORTED SUB BOX, FITS 19-24 DODGE RAM 1500 CREW-CAB

Ground-shaker is a leading speaker box company in Southern and Northern California with an objective to strive into a worldwide speaker box company

www.ground-shaker.com

Sundown Audio 600W Peak Dual 2 Ohm VC E Series V.6 8" Car Subwoofer E-V.6-8-D2

Heavily vented magnetic gap Solid pole piece for extremely high thermal power handling Spring Loaded Terminals RMS Power = 300-watts Dimensions: 12"x12"x12" This Item Includes: (1) Sundown Audio 600W Peak Dual 2 Ohm VC E Series V.6 8" Car Subwoofer E-V.6-8-D2 The E8 v.1 was the FIRST subwoofer...

bigjeffaudio.com

Down4Sound Shop

Buy Car Audio Online the real #1 Source, Fast Free Shipping, EZ Financing, Price Match Guarantee, freebies in every order, Shop Now!

www.down4soundshop.com

 

[1791]

i'll post a pic of my amp mount but i ashamed of it i didn't carpet the board because it's not for display and you can't see it but still......after looking at the pic i'm going to have to carpet it and secure the wires i just swapped out from 2 amps and a bunch of other wiring to that 5 channel. my OCD kicking in it's driveling me crazy just knowing it look's like that.

 

[rick619]

you have a crew cab so you have alot of room IMO but the e torque battery limits the amp mounting mine is where the battery would go. i mounted my amp behind the back seat you can't see it at all. as far as storage i have a hard bed cover and a bed so i didn't care about that however i get it some people want some under seat storage. with a quad cab that box in my truck that looks huge is only 2 cubic feet the minimum for my woofers the only thing i could find that would work in that space was Sundown. sounds like you should go with a 8 or a 10 really the 8 will work out best for space if that's a big concern. i went with the infinity's in the rear doors and the component's up front to be honest if no one is gonna be in the rear i would leave them out. if someone is in the back seat you most likely not going to have the music on at least i don't because normally there is conservation happening and music taste vairy so much. over the years i almost always delete rear speakers. plus that way a 4 channel amp can run the woofer bridged and the 2 channels left run the front. D4S has 1 more tiny powerhouse the JP3. it's super powerful and compact for a sub but you can go with alot of brands that will do the job. you could get this and a sundown 8 or go with the 10 set up i think you will be quite happy with the 8 though. if you go 4 channel this is good jp84. i think you should got to a reputable shop for the install unless you really confident i have done many installs and once worked at a car audio dealer installing so i did mine and it was a PIA. you should go with a small efficient amp it don't need to be super powerfull i'm thinking jp84. if you get a dsr1 it has a optional and bass knob.
dsr1 350
box 265
woofer 129
rca's and wire let's budget 100
6x9 70
componets 250.
amp?
=$1164 plus install and whatever amp you choose. it will sound lovely!

BLACK 8" SINGLE PORTED SUB BOX, FITS 19-24 DODGE RAM 1500 CREW-CAB

Ground-shaker is a leading speaker box company in Southern and Northern California with an objective to strive into a worldwide speaker box company

www.ground-shaker.com

Sundown Audio 600W Peak Dual 2 Ohm VC E Series V.6 8" Car Subwoofer E-V.6-8-D2

Heavily vented magnetic gap Solid pole piece for extremely high thermal power handling Spring Loaded Terminals RMS Power = 300-watts Dimensions: 12"x12"x12" This Item Includes: (1) Sundown Audio 600W Peak Dual 2 Ohm VC E Series V.6 8" Car Subwoofer E-V.6-8-D2 The E8 v.1 was the FIRST subwoofer...

bigjeffaudio.com

Down4Sound Shop

Buy Car Audio Online the real #1 Source, Fast Free Shipping, EZ Financing, Price Match Guarantee, freebies in every order, Shop Now!

www.down4soundshop.com

Right on, that's what I have in mind. Was figuring $1000 - $1500, so something like this should work well. Definitley need to find a good shop to install everything. I can handle a simple speaker swap, but not going to try to setup an amp or anything that would require running new power and speaker wires.

 

[Bansheeman6100]

So, decided I am going to order the D4S components for front and rear, front tweeters, their amp, and skip a sub for now. Im also going to try to install it all myself, as paying a shop really isn't in my budget

 

[Jedi9]

I ordered 2 pairs of the Infinity 6x9 and a pair of Infinity 3.5s for the dash. Looking at the anc bypass harness, there is a PAC ANC-CH01 for $27 or an Idatalink bch3. for $15 (or $10 at Crutchfield but you have to pay shipping, but you do get an install sheet for speakers) It appears the Idatalink does the same thing as far as bypass goes but the PAC allows you to run amplified speaker outputs bypassing the ANC so if you are adding an amp the PAC is the way to go. It only allows for 4 speakers and I got 6 but I'm assuming the fronts will go to the front door and the dash, does this assumption seem correct? I don't plan on adding an amp now but may in the future. wonder how it would sound with using speaker level inputs amped right there under the front seat. would you still need a signal processor? No room for a sub, I load my backseat area up with tools all the time.

 

[rick619]

I ordered 2 pairs of the Infinity 6x9 and a pair of Infinity 3.5s for the dash. Looking at the anc bypass harness, there is a PAC ANC-CH01 for $27 or an Idatalink bch3. for $15 (or $10 at Crutchfield but you have to pay shipping, but you do get an install sheet for speakers) It appears the Idatalink does the same thing as far as bypass goes but the PAC allows you to run amplified speaker outputs bypassing the ANC so if you are adding an amp the PAC is the way to go. It only allows for 4 speakers and I got 6 but I'm assuming the fronts will go to the front door and the dash, does this assumption seem correct? I don't plan on adding an amp now but may in the future. wonder how it would sound with using speaker level inputs amped right there under the front seat. would you still need a signal processor? No room for a sub, I load my backseat area up with tools all the time.

I might try to avoid a sub at first too. Not crazy about taking up room under the back seat. 6X9 seem to produce half way decent bass.

 

[Jedi9]

I looked at underseat storage units for a quad, pretty much takes up all floor space, I usually have the back seats folded up

 

[Jedi9]

so I was finally able to start install yesterday. I did install the ANC bypass and while I was there I checked impedance for front and rear speaker sets. I didn't want to deviate much from factory. Impedance was around the same, 2 ohms or so.
Installed the Infinity 6 x 9 coaxials in the front door, with tweeter set to 0db. Was not able to use the baffle in the front so don't waste your money. I did cut off the skirt and just used the forward portion to seal the front of the speaker to the door panel and I did stick the sound deadener on the door shell behind the speaker. Installed 1 front tweeter and gave it a go. Yes highs were very much enhanced, a little much. the door speakers sounded great. Impedance with the new front door and tweeter has dropped to 1 ohm. I think that's asking too much from the head unit so I am going to add a resistor to bring impedance back down to 2 ohms or so. Impedance with the new front door speaker and factory tweeter is 2.5 ohms, so its ok but the door speaker sounds so much better than the factory tweeter something needs to be done. I'll try the resistor or will have to source the 8 ohm fronts. Haven't gotten to the rear door speakers but I'll probably set the tweeter in those coaxials to +3 db.
Note the Metra speaker wiring adaptors 72-6514 for the door speakers are correct polarity . the Metra speaker wiring adaptors for the tweeters 72-7902 are not correct polarity and must be changed.

 

[Jedi9]

finished yesterday, put the rears in set tweeters to 0DB, 3 was too much. Added 4 ohm resistor in front dash speakers. did not use the 270 uf cap which is a bass blocker. there have been some folks that removed the 4.7 uf cap on the 3032s thinking that the crossover was up around 8K hz or so. then I noticed the same 4.7 uf cap was on the 9632s 6x9 that are rated down to 40 hz or so. I decided to give the fine folks at Harmon Kardon a call today to ask about all of this. I was wondering why would the 3032s have a crossover at 8k when its supposedly a full range driver rated down to 80 hz?? Went through the first rep pretty quick and another came on line. The next rep filled me in. the caps we see pre soldered on both speakers are the crossovers for the tweeters in the speakers. The speakers themselves are rated as advertised. the additional 270 uf cap for the 3032 is a bass blocker which gives a crossover point of 196 Hz at 6 db per octave. If you run heavy bass you may want to install these to protect the speakers. I'm not going to run them now. Yes the sound is good, I'm experimenting with the equalizer and finding good tone with the high set to -2. I can drive these speakers harder now. Next up considering amp with poss a small sub. maybe a 4 channel, use 2 channels on the front 4 speakers and bridge the other 2 to the sub, then maybe give a little more fader bias to the rear doors, which are just fillers for me anyway. And I have an additional question. Does the base 6 speaker system ever come with a "surround" setting. I swear maybe I dreamed it but was sure I had it and had it set to surround and now want to try the straight setting and the selection is no longer available. Did I dream this, or perhaps seen too many utube videos and they stuck in my head? I'm going to keep checking audio settings to see if it magically appears.

 

[Jedi9]

I want to go to a sub. Can anyone tell me if it would be possible to use the line outputs to an amp for channels 1-2 for the front., run the rear speakers without amplification, and somehow get a signal to run through the amp to power a sub? Would I need some sort of an audio signal splitter?

 

[spyder]

I just want better sounding speakers and more volume. I don't want to learn how to do all the stuff talked about with with "270 uf cap for the 3032 is a bass blocker which gives a crossover point of 196 Hz at 6 db per octave."
If anyone comes up with a "remove these old ****ty speakers and put new ones in" setup, I'm all ears!

 

[Preyou]

I replaced mine last week in my 2019 Ram Lone Star with a set of JBL speakers. The 6x9 speakers in all four doors were replaced with JBL GX9638 and the dash speakers were replaced with 3.5" JBL Club 34F. All of these speakers are rated at 2 ohm to match up with the factory UConnect unit.

Up front, I felt like the dash speakers were a bit too loud and the factory stereo did not give me enough configurability to manage this in the settings. I added a bass blocker capacitor to attenuate the front speakers and block the low frequencies from the dash speakers and it worked out perfectly. The capacitor was a 99UF and, based on my math, will block frequencies below 800HZ from reaching the front speakers.

I picked up the full set of speakers for less than $250 and couldn't be happier.

 

[Jedi9]

I just want better sounding speakers and more volume. I don't want to learn how to do all the stuff talked about with with "270 uf cap for the 3032 is a bass blocker which gives a crossover point of 196 Hz at 6 db per octave."
If anyone comes up with a "remove these old ****ty speakers and put new ones in" setup, I'm all ears!

Here you go , plug and play Kenwood

 

[Jedi9]

same speakers almost $60 cheaper Linky

 

[Preyou]

That Kenwood kit only has 2 of the 6x9 speakers and not 4. Check this out. It even includes the plug adapters for the factory wiring. Keep in mind that the dash speakers have different plugs than the doors.

 

[Jedi9]

Pulled the trigger on a small Kicker sub with the KEY technology and 40 band auto DSP. I want to see what all the hype is about

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[Bansheeman6100]

OK, pulling the trigger and ordering my speakers. I decided to go with their 3-way component set for the front. But will this Amp run the total of 8 speakers, or do I need to upgrade to a 7 channel? Or maybe run the front speakers on 1 Amp. And the rears and a sub on a second? As for a sub, I'm going to run a cheap little compact for now like this while I decide if I want to go full bore and lose the storage space with a big box. But I'll leave enough wire and run it so I can mount it next to the speaker Amp which I plan to mount behind the seat (non etorque)

 

[Jedi9]

Installing the Kicker this weekend and if I have time I have a JBL amp for the sub on the Jeep.