What's new
By:
5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Anyone running the Uniden R7 in their Gen 5?

AK103 said:
Is it possible to tap into the mirror with the tech package?
I don't know how comfortable I feel running the cable that far.
Click to expand...
That being said it is possible. That is what I've done.
 
securityguy said:
Not exactly what I was referring to my friend, but a great reply :ROFLMAO: Get that crap off the dash and up where it belongs with all wires routed nicely so you don't have to look at that mess every time you get into your nice truck. For a few bucks and 30-45 minutes time, you can transform that mess into a nice installation;)
Click to expand...
I would, but there's an Escort Redline up on the windshield that's tweaked for Ka band, and that's all it does. Excellent range with all the other stuff shut off.
The R7 detection range is excellent, too, and with the R7 I get arrows.
Best of both worlds, my friend, and with the JBV1 app on my phone, I get crowd sourced alerts as well.

Steve
 
Zig10 said:
I run an R3 with just the normal window mount. That 12v plug on top turns off eventually...or the R3 does it itself. I have accidentally left it plugged in on many an evening when I get home from work and I'm the morning it is turned off.
Click to expand...
Thank you all for the feedback. I'm going to try this and test it and see. If not, I think I'm going to go to an electronics shop here in Charlotte and have them professionally install to the mirror/camera power with this mount

 
securityguy said:
Not bad, but that suction cup mount for the Escort has got to go!
Click to expand...
Suction cup in the Florida heat where I am would not last very long. It would fall off fast. I ended up using Gorilla double sided tape. Holding perfectly in the heat unlike the suction cup.
 
joemo said:
Suction cup in the Florida heat where I am would not last very long. It would fall off fast. I ended up using Gorilla double sided tape. Holding perfectly in the heat unlike the suction cup.
Click to expand...

I'll probably transition to the blend mount setup as we approach spring. Tennessee doesn't get nearly as hot as Florida but I do make few trips down there throughout the year.
 
Arth said:
I'll probably transition to the blend mount setup as we approach spring. Tennessee doesn't get nearly as hot as Florida but I do make few trips down there throughout the year.
Click to expand...
The Blendmount is awesome...it's a shame it's so darn pricey!
 
securityguy said:
The Blendmount is awesome...it's a shame it's so darn pricey!
Click to expand...

I just received mine. I mounted it up to see how it would look, it's WAY too low for me.
I wish it tucked closer to the mirror.
 
AK103 said:
I just received mine. I mounted it up to see how it would look, it's WAY too low for me.
I wish it tucked closer to the mirror.
Click to expand...
You do know it is adjustable...correct? You can get it to butt right up to the bottom of the mirror if you want ;)
 
securityguy said:
You do know it is adjustable...correct? You can get it to butt right up to the bottom of the mirror if you want ;)
Click to expand...

I tried, I wasn't able to get it right against the mirror.
 
I bought this and I am going to install it this weekend. It feels real solid, made of aluminum for a good price. My only question is if I tap into the rear view, do I get the short or the long pin wire?

www.ebay.com

ESCORT Alloy Radar Mirror Mount Attachment for Radar Detectors (ER-C) | eBay

Escort Radar Detectors. This radar mount is constructed of a rugged aluminum alloy and features a non-glare stealth matte black flat finish. This design also includes optional fasteners to eliminate the knobs for a cleaner installation if desired.
www.ebay.com
 
NightRAM said:
I bought this and I am going to install it this weekend. It feels real solid, made of aluminum for a good price. My only question is if I tap into the rear view, do I get the short or the long pin wire?

www.ebay.com

ESCORT Alloy Radar Mirror Mount Attachment for Radar Detectors (ER-C) | eBay

Escort Radar Detectors. This radar mount is constructed of a rugged aluminum alloy and features a non-glare stealth matte black flat finish. This design also includes optional fasteners to eliminate the knobs for a cleaner installation if desired.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Run it to the fuse panel
 
securityguy said:
Run it to the fuse panel
Click to expand...

I saw the link to fuse box wire kit but what makes that the better choice? Is it hard to tap to the mirror? My Infiniti mirror tap was a breeze. I’m not a good cable runner and hider.
 
NightRAM said:
I saw the link to fuse box wire kit but what makes that the better choice? Is it hard to tap to the mirror? My Infiniti mirror tap was a breeze. I’m not a good cable runner and hider.
Click to expand...
No it’s not hard to tap the mirror. As a professional installer, I was never a fan of mirror taps. Do what makes you most comfortable.
 
NightRAM said:
I saw the link to fuse box wire kit but what makes that the better choice? Is it hard to tap to the mirror? My Infiniti mirror tap was a breeze. I’m not a good cable runner and hider.
Click to expand...
Whenever you tap into another circuit you stand the risk of overloading the circuit. Modern vehicles use the thinnest gauge wire they can get away with for each specific circuit branch because wire adds weight and copper is expensive. Such thin wires have only so much ampacity. This is no problem when designing the car because the electrical engineer will match the proper wiring gauge to each circuit branch and then fuse it appropriately. However, if you tap into it and add additional loads, you may exceed the available ampacity. This could blow the fuse whenever some or all of the loads are applied to the tapped circuit branch. Or you may get away with it. It's much better to run a separate wire to the fuse box and use a fuse tap.
 
HAL9001 said:
Whenever you tap into another circuit you stand the risk of overloading the circuit. Modern vehicles use the thinnest gauge wire they can get away with for each specific circuit branch because wire adds weight and copper is expensive. Such thin wires have only so much ampacity. This is no problem when designing the car because the electrical engineer will match the proper wiring gauge to each circuit branch and then fuse it appropriately. However, if you tap into it and add additional loads, you may exceed the available ampacity. This could blow the fuse whenever some or all of the loads are applied to the tapped circuit branch. Or you may get away with it. It's much better to run a separate wire to the fuse box and use a fuse tap.
Click to expand...
Spot on my fiend!
 
HAL9001 said:
Whenever you tap into another circuit you stand the risk of overloading the circuit. Modern vehicles use the thinnest gauge wire they can get away with for each specific circuit branch because wire adds weight and copper is expensive. Such thin wires have only so much ampacity. This is no problem when designing the car because the electrical engineer will match the proper wiring gauge to each circuit branch and then fuse it appropriately. However, if you tap into it and add additional loads, you may exceed the available ampacity. This could blow the fuse whenever some or all of the loads are applied to the tapped circuit branch. Or you may get away with it. It's much better to run a separate wire to the fuse box and use a fuse tap.
Click to expand...
I'll also add one more warning to this. I told this to a friend of mine some time ago and he laughed and said it wasn't a problem. He did blow the circuit's fuse when he tapped another load into it. He said he fixed the problem simply by changing the fuse to a larger value.

Don't ever do that, the fuse is there to protect the wiring first and foremost. Every gauge wire has a maximum ampacity. You can look that up in an ampacity chart. If you exceed it, you run the risk of damaging the wire and causing a very expensive problem. Fuses must never be changed to a larger value.

It's like the circuit breakers in your house. For example, if you run your microwave off of the same plug or circuit as your toaster oven, you may trip the breaker. The circuit breaker is not there to protect your appliances, it's there to protect the wiring. If you swapped a 15 amp breaker with a 25 amp to stop the breaker from tripping, you can melt your wiring and cause a short or a fire.
 
Last edited:
HAL9001 said:
I'll also add one more warning to this. I told this to a friend of mine some time ago and he laughed and said it wasn't a problem. He did blow the circuit's fuse when he tapped another load into it. He said he fixed the problem simply by changing the fuse to a larger value.

Don't ever do that, the fuse is there to protect the wiring first and foremost. Every gauge wire has a maximum ampacity. You can look that up in an ampacity chart. If you exceed it, you run the risk of damaging the wire and causing a very expensive problem. Fuses must never be changed to a larger value.
Click to expand...
EXCELLENT POINT! Amazing that some folks are dumb enough to actually do that without thinking to themselves..."that fuse must be sized to "X" for a reason...I better not make it bigger without asking someone first".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Site Vendors

https://www.jasonlewisautomotive.com/

Members online

Total: 557 (members: 34, guests: 523)
Back
Top