Alternative to Rockford Fosgate DSR1?

[805myth1]

Hopefully deciding on sub setup in the next few days, and get that ordered…I’m waffling on the 2x10”s, and considering a single 12” instead, possibly a Dayton reference HO.

I also need to rewire the dash tweeters, thats on the list (but I have no wire hangers in the house...lol)

I say go with dual 10’s. I started with a single 12 but that didn’t last too long. I also need to make time to rewire all the speakers to 14 gauge, then get my 300 amp alternator and xs power battery before I can finally tune it to full power, 3500+ watts rms.

 

[swizlstik]

I went with the PAC controller along with ANC cancellation. Totally bypassing the factory amp. I have Hertz everything except for the subs. Their low profile Millie is just coming out. I’ve been a car audio junkie since I had my first car back in 1988. I thought I was cool with my Coustic amp and Jensen speakers running off a JVC cassette deck. The amount of clarity and power the equipment has today isn’t even comparable. This is my current setup, but will upgrading on it down the road. I’m not sure what I’ll be adding next, sound treatment, DSP, or Epicenter.View attachment 118039

 

[sppb32]

What's the thing on the left?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Lithium battery bank, got to feed that 8000 watts amplifier.

 

[Richard320]

I'd go for this.

 

[Hackmunch]

ive been running a dsr1 in my ram for 3 years. would highly recommend. no issues what so ever.

 

[ijanderson29]

What does the PAC APH-CH03 do? Is that an alternative to the DSR1 if you don't want DSP and just want to bypass ANC?

I have the 12inch screen with Alpine System. It's my understanding that I would just need AP4-CH41 and CPH-CH03 if I want to add a basic sub/amp combo and later on upgrade the door speakers?

 

[Brunzca]

I say go with dual 10’s. I started with a single 12 but that didn’t last too long. I also need to make time to rewire all the speakers to 14 gauge, then get my 300 amp alternator and xs power battery before I can finally tune it to full power, 3500+ watts rms.

View attachment 118027

Went with the dual 10’s, ordered two Dayton HO’s, and a Fox box. I just don’t have the time I thought I would to try and build one on my own (even if it takes a month for them to build and deliver it to me). I’m holding off on the dash rewire for the moment, I was under the assumption it was wired in parallel with the doors, but that’s only for the base system, with the Alpine, it’s already separate, so not a pressing need, someday I’ll get to it. for now, will try and get some sound deadening material in on the back wall, and along the rear floor, and work on tuning the DSP.

 

[805myth1]

The only reason I am planning to run new 14 gauge speaker wire is, I’m planning to put over 100 watts to each speaker and possible mid upgrade later to over 200 watts.

 

[Brunzca]

The only reason I am planning to run new 14 gauge speaker wire is, I’m planning to put over 100 watts to each speaker and possible mid upgrade later to over 200 watts.

Makes perfect sense! I’m only running 75 now. I want to upgrade to 14 eventually, too. I was planning to do it now, bcs I thought I had to separate them from the doors, but now I can wait a bit. Especially since it’s taking me longer than I planned already.

 

[Mactara]

Went with the dual 10’s, ordered two Dayton HO’s, and a Fox box. I just don’t have the time I thought I would to try and build one on my own (even if it takes a month for them to build and deliver it to me). I’m holding off on the dash rewire for the moment, I was under the assumption it was wired in parallel with the doors, but that’s only for the base system, with the Alpine, it’s already separate, so not a pressing need, someday I’ll get to it. for now, will try and get some sound deadening material in on the back wall, and along the rear floor, and work on tuning the DSP.

Glad to know that in the Apline set up, the dash are NOT wired in Parallel... i can run them off a seperate amp/channel direct.

The aim is to get each set/pair (dash, front and rear) on a dedicated channel. I will probably run the dash and front doors off the P600x4 and the rear doors off the P300x2. Subs will be connected tonthe p1000x1bd at 2ohm (I have 2 RF P3 Dual 2ohm subs).

Eventually, I will upgrade the speaker wires to a 16 or 14 guage, but for now I'm just gonna run a 18 guage speed wire from the Amp to the PAC harness near the Alpine Amp.

 

[sppb32]

What does the PAC APH-CH03 do? Is that an alternative to the DSR1 if you don't want DSP and just want to bypass ANC?

I have the 12inch screen with Alpine System. It's my understanding that I would just need AP4-CH41 and CPH-CH03 if I want to add a basic sub/amp combo and later on upgrade the door speakers?

You only need the CH41, then you can add as you prefer, sub and amp and leave the speakers on the factory amp, sub amp amd front doors and amp and leave the other speakers on the factory amp, or like me I added subwoofers and sub amp and a 4 channel for the front doors and dash, all other speakers still connected to the factory amplifier.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

 

[sppb32]

Glad to know that in the Apline set up, the dash are NOT wired in Parallel... i can run them off a seperate amp/channel direct.

The aim is to get each set/pair (dash, front and rear) on a dedicated channel. I will probably run the dash and front doors off the P600x4 and the rear doors off the P300x2. Subs will be connected tonthe p1000x1bd at 2ohm (I have 2 RF P3 Dual 2ohm subs).

Eventually, I will upgrade the speaker wires to a 16 or 14 guage, but for now I'm just gonna run a 18 guage speed wire from the Amp to the PAC harness near the Alpine Amp.

I strongly suggest you running all new wires to the dash and doors, it's very easy and you don't have to mess with the factory harness, 16 gauge is plenty as there's only so much speaker you can fit in the front doors and dash, I doubt you can find a 6x9 speaker that can take over 100 watts full range that fits in the front doors, maybe if you convert to 6.5 with neo motor but 6x9 it has to be less than 3" deep mount.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

 

[Brunzca]

So there's a lot here with controlling the sound stage and the speakers and the equalization. The DSP will help you do that but you will have limitations if you're running a passive component set in the front and a full range, three-way speaker in the rear.

I'll start with the three-way speaker in the rear, that speaker is effectively going to be playing lows and highs so you will need to create a bandpass filter for that speaker or feed it full range signal and rely purely on time alignment to help set the appropriate amount of rear fill.

The tough part on your front stage will be if you plan to use the passive crossovers included with the component set. The passive crossover is already have their high and low frequency and response curve set from the factory. Using the DSP you will be able to do some mild EQ in the time alignment to correct the sound stage but you will struggle due to those existing factory EQ points. AKA you don't have complete control of the component set.

Now using a 6 channel amplifier you could take complete control of your front stage and rear stage using the DSP and the 6 channels AKA going completely active. This is a slippery slope and can take a long time to tune and is also a great way to fry drivers if you aren't quite sure what you're doing as far as crossovers and gain settings on the amplifier.

The best way to utilize the DSP as a novice and avoid all of these risks is to create some simple high pass and low pass filters for your speakers and subwoofers. Then you can use the time alignment left right front and rear to help set the stage in the correct location. No shame in doing that and learning how to use those tools first before diving into controlling each individual driver independently.

If this is something you really want to dive into I encourage you to take a look at the DIY Mobile audio community that exists. There are tons of folks on that that have vast experience in the industry and tuning systems.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

I’ve been meaning to reply to this for the last couple days, but kept getting busy every time I thought about typing it out.

After I had the new amp/DSP installed for a couple weeks, had been trying to figure out what works for me, why I wasn’t getting the sound I wanted, how to adjust things, etc, i came back to this post, and it really made a lot of sense. I had installed the tweeters with the passive crossovers. then, based on youtube install videos, I set up crossovers right away on the app, which basically blocked all the highs, so i wasn’t getting anything out of them, and couldn’t figure out why. once I figured that out, I removed the passives, and had a massive improvement. Now, I’m playing with the electronic crossovers, and working little by little with the graphic eq, to cut from the 3-ways in the rear so they don’t dominate everything, and remove the muddy sounds from the mids. The tweets aren’t as clear as I’d like, and I still want to try and move the stage further up, but I’m getting an idea of what I’m doing, and it’s sounding better.

still waiting on my enclosure to get here, so don’t want to get too dialed in, then have to re-do everything, so really focusing on what changes what, and what effect everything has. Once the build is done, then I’ll really work on tuning more.

anyway, thanks again for this post. Great info and advice, much appreciated!!

 

[Otto]

anyway, thanks again for this post. Great info and advice, much appreciated!!

No problem man. Still waiting on some warmer days to start mine. Any other questions drop me a line.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Brunzca]

So, after all this time, I’m getting close to having everything installed. The Fox box has been on order for two months. Finally shipped yesterday, and should be here Monday. I wasnt happy with the tweeters in the dash, so ordered a pair of Unity 8.0 widerange drivers from CDT, and am putting those in now. Also swapping out the 6.5 mids in the front doors for CDT 6x9s. Slowly trying to learn to tune it, which may take forever, but I think I’ve got the pieces I want.

 

[ramButz]

I strongly suggest you running all new wires to the dash and doors, it's very easy and you don't have to mess with the factory harness, 16 gauge is plenty as there's only so much speaker you can fit in the front doors and dash, I doubt you can find a 6x9 speaker that can take over 100 watts full range that fits in the front doors, maybe if you convert to 6.5 with neo motor but 6x9 it has to be less than 3" deep mount.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk

me and my brother did that

 

[ramButz]

Lithium battery bank, got to feed that 8000 watts amplifier.

8000 watts

 

[sppb32]

8000 watts

Yup

 

[ramButz]

Yup

 

[Brunzca]

I can't stand listening to xm unless the volume is low (like when others are in the truck with me and were talking).

The sound quality is horrible. You get way better quality with carplay/android auto and using a service like spotify. I also tried out TIDAL, which is supposed to be cd quality (320kbs) or better. Didn't really notice a difference between it and spotify on its highest quality setting.

I guess my thought here, is that y'all want to spend thousands on audio equipment, to listen to a 48kbs bit rate source.

I think even xm through the app is better.

Sent from my Galaxy S21 Ultra using Tapatalk

This is what I’m really starting to run into now. I made the change (below) and already notice a huge difference in the quality between the music I have on some usb drives vs Spotify and Xm. So will be trying Amazon unlimited and the high quality tidal to see if that’s better.

You better of with the PAC module and a stand alone DSP, you have better control and better choice of amplification for each channel. You also don't need an overpriced one, the Banda Expert PX2 is a great DSP with everything you need and some.

After a few months of working with the Kenwood, it was a lot better than stock, obviously. But, I really wanted to add another channel for tweeters. And, this DSP didn’t have as much ability for customization as I wanted, once I started tweaking it. So, I replaced it with a PAC, a Helix V eight, and GB10s. I’ve only had those in a week, but already love the difference. As mentioned, the biggest issue right now is finding source material to take advantage, as I get the tune cleaned up.