RichInMN
Active Member
Yep, that's what a lot of folks have done and I think with some success. Not the route I took personally but other folks have. Attached a wiring diagram for the ANC for reference.
-Rich
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-Rich
david0
Member
You're right - that looks like the right one! Here is the link for reference:
PAC APH-CH03 AmpPro Harness
Works with PAC's AP4-CH41 AmpPro module to install a new amplifier in select 2015-20 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and RAM vehicles with factory amp
www.crutchfield.com
Thanks for sharing the video! That was very informative. Now you have piqued my interest in the DSR1... but I'll try out the CH03 harness first to bypass the ANC and tap into speaker level outputs for my sub's signal. The CH03 harness will be here in a couple of days from Crutchfield. I'll report back after I try it out. Was really hoping to wrap up my install this weekend, but it is what it is.
jd20lar
Member
Crutchfield has a ton of neat stuff. Kenwood 6 channel amp direct replacement also. Look around under vehicle specific.You're right - that looks like the right one! Here is the link for reference:
PAC APH-CH03 AmpPro Harness
Works with PAC's AP4-CH41 AmpPro module to install a new amplifier in select 2015-20 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and RAM vehicles with factory amp
Thanks for sharing the video! That was very informative. Now you have piqued my interest in the DSR1... but I'll try out the CH03 harness first to bypass the ANC and tap into speaker level outputs for my sub's signal. The CH03 harness will be here in a couple of days from Crutchfield. I'll report back after I try it out. Was really hoping to wrap up my install this weekend, but it is what it is.
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
david0
Member
Do you have a link for that Kenwood amp? The only item that comes up under the category "Vehicle-specific amps & processors" for me is the DSR1 module.
jd20lar
Member
Kenwood Excelon P-XR600-6DSP
6-channel car amplifier with digital signal processing and Maestro AR interface — 75 watts RMS x 6
www.crutchfield.com
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
david0
Member
Interesting - Crutchfield says that's not a fit for my Ram.Kenwood Excelon P-XR600-6DSP
6-channel car amplifier with digital signal processing and Maestro AR interface — 75 watts RMS x 6
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
So, I finishing my install last night and promised to follow up after I was done. Here's a summary of how it went including some details that I think might benefit someone in the future.
Rant/Initial Review
Overall, the install was easy once I got the correct harness. However, I don't like anything I've heard coming from the JL Audio Stealthbox with the two 10s, powered by the Audio Control LC1.800. I don't know if it's just the nature of a compact subwoofer, or the form fitting box, or the fact that the subs in this box are firing straight into the floor... but this setup just does not fill the cab with balanced sound.. I can hardly hear any bass in the front seats at all - the stock 8" subwoofer filled the cab with more bass than the Stealthbox does. I've tried both phases, so it's not a phase conflict issue. I've tried feeding signals from the L/R rear door channels to the amp, and then I switched to using one of the three signals going to the OEM subwoofer. Not much of a difference between the two signal sources. I can hear nice and full sounding bass if I put my ear right next to the box, but that bass doesn't make it to the front of the cab. I might have to return the Stealthbox and look into the ported boxes from Fox Acoustics if I can't get proper sound out of the JL Audio Stealthbox.
For reference, my expectations are set by the single 12" Kicker Solo-Baric L7 (~700W RMS) that I have in a sealed box in my 4Runner. The JL Audio Stealthbox with it's 800W RMS just doesn't even come close, and for $1500, I expected WAY more.
The good news is that the rest of the Alpine system keeps up very well and actually sounds pretty good when you set the bass to -3 or -4 on the head unit.
Now, onto the install details...
The PAC APH-CH03 is the correct harness to use if you have the Alpine system. Using it allowed me to disable the stock subwoofer behind the rear seat, bypass the ANC (supposedly - I have no way of knowing whether this is working as intended or not), and provide me with an easy place to pull L/R speaker level signals (or the OEM subwoofer signals) to feed my subwoofer amplifier, all from under the drivers seat without having to touch any OEM wiring.
The APH-CH03 harness comes with two male and female "breakout" harnesses that plug into the two grey OEM connectors under the seat. These breakout harnesses allow you to connect the factory speakers to an aftermarket amp, or connect them to the OEM amp. It's a good idea to plug the female grey harness into the male grey OEM harness and tone out which pairs go to which speaker, but here is how mine were mapped in my '19 Rebel. (These are the colors of the PAC APH-CH03 harness):
| Speaker 1 (Red) | Front left dash |
| Speaker 2 (Orange) | Front right dash |
| Speaker 3 (Yellow) | Front left door |
| Speaker 4 (Green) | Front right door |
| Speaker 5 (Blue) | Subwoofer |
| Speaker 6 (Purple) | Subwoofer |
| Speaker 7 (Pink) | Subwoofer |
| Speaker 8 (Light Green) | Front center dash |
| Speaker 9 (White) | Right rear headboard |
| Speaker 10 (Gray) | Left rear headboard |
| Speaker 11 (Brown) | Right rear door |
| Speaker 12 (Black) | Left rear door |
Attachments
david0
Member
Just an update on my install...
So, it WAS a phase issue, but not one of my doing. The Stealthbox came from the factory with the two subs wired together incorrectly inside the box, which put them out of phase with each other, and effectively pitted them against each other when producing sound. I'm going to try to get ABT to replace at least the subwoofers since I may have fed them too much power when tuning my amplifier (and since they were fighting each other, I wouldn't have heard them reach their limits).
I am using the speaker level inputs (left and right rear door signals) for my sub amp, and I'm starting to dislike that as a source. They're subject to whatever EQ and highpass filter settings the factory system applies to the signal, and I do notice different (and even missing) frequcncies on certain songs. Don't get me wrong - it sounds much better now that I've fixed the Stealthbox - it's just minor things with the speaker level outputs that I don't like. Another thing is that at low overall volumes, the amplifier turns off and there's no bass whatsoever... but that's got to be due to how Audio Control implemented the signal sensing turn on circuitry in their LC1.800 amp.
With that said, I'm going to put in the PAC Amp Pro Sub interface to give me a flat pre-amp output and a 12V turn on signal which will alleviate both of my concerns with the speaker level signals. Will follow up after I do that installation.
So, it WAS a phase issue, but not one of my doing. The Stealthbox came from the factory with the two subs wired together incorrectly inside the box, which put them out of phase with each other, and effectively pitted them against each other when producing sound. I'm going to try to get ABT to replace at least the subwoofers since I may have fed them too much power when tuning my amplifier (and since they were fighting each other, I wouldn't have heard them reach their limits).
I am using the speaker level inputs (left and right rear door signals) for my sub amp, and I'm starting to dislike that as a source. They're subject to whatever EQ and highpass filter settings the factory system applies to the signal, and I do notice different (and even missing) frequcncies on certain songs. Don't get me wrong - it sounds much better now that I've fixed the Stealthbox - it's just minor things with the speaker level outputs that I don't like. Another thing is that at low overall volumes, the amplifier turns off and there's no bass whatsoever... but that's got to be due to how Audio Control implemented the signal sensing turn on circuitry in their LC1.800 amp.
With that said, I'm going to put in the PAC Amp Pro Sub interface to give me a flat pre-amp output and a 12V turn on signal which will alleviate both of my concerns with the speaker level signals. Will follow up after I do that installation.
U
User_67930
Guest
When I do my install thats the route I'm going, using the PAC Amp sub interface.
Let us know how you like it.
MonkeyTheory
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I am also having issues with my install. I have the 12 inch screen with the Alpine in my 2020 sport. I have the amppro installed and was I needed the APH-CH01 but that wasn't true. I want to use the factory wiring to run the front and rear doors as well as the front tweeters to my 4 chan amp. I.thougjt the Aph-ch03 was only for the Harmon Kardon system.
The problem is with the signal the radio is sending to the factory amplifier. It sends it in 3 different frequencies highs, mids, and lows. Damn near impossible to get a full range signal for an aftermarket amplifier to utilize. From what I’ve seen, the Rockford and PAC are currently the only “plug and play” devices out so far, but I refuse to pay that much to get a signal. Thought about trying to use an LC7i and sum the channels to get the signal. Here is a video explaining how LC7i works for anyone that hasn’t heard of it.
david0
Member
Finally finished my install!
Just some final notes on the installation process for anyone else looking to do the same...
Removing the front screen panel of the truck to installing the PAC AmpPRO SUB module was fairly easy, and I feel much better knowing I have a flat signal going to the subs that isn't controlled by the Ram's EQ settings.
The ANC is bypassed using PAC's APH-CH03 harness, even though Crutchfield says it doesn't fit in my specific model Ram ('19 with 12" screen and Alpine system). This is also the harness to use if you want to power the factory speakers with an aftermarket amplifier, or if you want to pull speaker-level signals to your amp's inputs.
I ran all my wiring down the driver's side. It's not optimal to have power and signal wires running parallel for these lengths, but with shielded RCAs I hope this won't give me any problems.
I used a factory ground stud that is attached to the bottom of the cab behind the passenger seats for my amp. You'll have to pull the back wall carpet out of the way a little bit to get to it. Yay for not having to sand away paint or drill any holes!
I'm happy with the install and the Stealthbox (after fixing the out of phase wiring configuration that the box arrived with!)
The APH-CH03 is the one that fits our trucks with the Alpine and is the proper one to use to redirect the speaker wires to your aftermarket amp.
Just some final notes on the installation process for anyone else looking to do the same...
Removing the front screen panel of the truck to installing the PAC AmpPRO SUB module was fairly easy, and I feel much better knowing I have a flat signal going to the subs that isn't controlled by the Ram's EQ settings.
The ANC is bypassed using PAC's APH-CH03 harness, even though Crutchfield says it doesn't fit in my specific model Ram ('19 with 12" screen and Alpine system). This is also the harness to use if you want to power the factory speakers with an aftermarket amplifier, or if you want to pull speaker-level signals to your amp's inputs.
I ran all my wiring down the driver's side. It's not optimal to have power and signal wires running parallel for these lengths, but with shielded RCAs I hope this won't give me any problems.
I used a factory ground stud that is attached to the bottom of the cab behind the passenger seats for my amp. You'll have to pull the back wall carpet out of the way a little bit to get to it. Yay for not having to sand away paint or drill any holes!
I'm happy with the install and the Stealthbox (after fixing the out of phase wiring configuration that the box arrived with!)
The APH-CH03 is the one that fits our trucks with the Alpine and is the proper one to use to redirect the speaker wires to your aftermarket amp.
Thanks for the detailed review. I might have the courage to do this myself. I would have to get the dual 12's instead of the 10's because my rear seats don't recline. How do the 10's hit?
Mister 4x4
Active Member
Nice work, all - this is invaluable information for us audiophiles.
David0: Does your amp have a gain control knob, or is that done through the PAC AmpPro? I had an MTX powered Thunderform with 2 MTX 10" Terminators in my 2012 Lonestar with a gain control knob, which was perfect for boosting or backing off the bass from tune to tune (depending on the recording levels and whatnot - not all tunes are created equal, after all) - Man, I miss that system.
I'm looking at a Kicker Hideaway Series 10 (46HS10) powered sub (10" sub w/180w amp) and the PAC AmpPro SUB (APSUB-CH41) to get me there. I love the JL Stealthbox, but I really like having the storage bins better this time around, although I think I can live with giving up one of them if needed (unless there's room under the driver seat).
So far with the UConnect-12 and H/Ks, I seem to have found a workable curve on the B-M-T EQ settings (not perfect for all, but it'll do for now - it really needs an 11-band EQ, as 'high-end' as it is), but I'll definitely be augmenting the low-end.
I'm not looking to out-thump any of the local hoopties, but having some tunes with almost zero bass [without the ability to adjust] is just unacceptable.
"First World Problems," I know. ;-)
David0: Does your amp have a gain control knob, or is that done through the PAC AmpPro? I had an MTX powered Thunderform with 2 MTX 10" Terminators in my 2012 Lonestar with a gain control knob, which was perfect for boosting or backing off the bass from tune to tune (depending on the recording levels and whatnot - not all tunes are created equal, after all) - Man, I miss that system.
I'm looking at a Kicker Hideaway Series 10 (46HS10) powered sub (10" sub w/180w amp) and the PAC AmpPro SUB (APSUB-CH41) to get me there. I love the JL Stealthbox, but I really like having the storage bins better this time around, although I think I can live with giving up one of them if needed (unless there's room under the driver seat).
So far with the UConnect-12 and H/Ks, I seem to have found a workable curve on the B-M-T EQ settings (not perfect for all, but it'll do for now - it really needs an 11-band EQ, as 'high-end' as it is), but I'll definitely be augmenting the low-end.
I'm not looking to out-thump any of the local hoopties, but having some tunes with almost zero bass [without the ability to adjust] is just unacceptable.
"First World Problems," I know. ;-)
david0
Member
My rear seats don't recline either - Crutchfield and ABT just don't have the full product description. If you look at JL Audio's website, the description for the 12" model says:
I have the non-reclining rear seats, but I do have the underseat storage... I didn't want to add the additional seat brackets and trim panels so I just went with the 10" model. The 10" model fits perfectly fine under my seats (which are the fold-up only kind).
The two 10"s hit pretty good for a slim sub. They lack some of the lows compared to the full size Kicker 12" L7 in my 4Runner but I don't have any complaints about the 10"s. They fill up the cab sufficiently and don't drown out the Alpine system, which avoids the "arms race" of doing a sub first and then realizing you need to do components too.
Thanks - I hope my posts help to clear up some of the confusion. My amp (AudioControl LC1.800) does have a remote level knob that I stuck under the 4WD control buttons. The PAC AmpPro SUB interface also has a remote level control knob, which I didn't use. The PAC manual says if you don't plug in the PAC level control knob, it defaults to 100% volume, which worked out for me so I can still use the knob connected to my sub.
For your storage bins - are you referring to the storage bins in the floor of the truck, underneath the passenger's feet? Or, the storage area under the passenger seat? I have both in my truck, and the Stealthbox doesn't interfere with the storage bins under the passengers feet - but obviously I gave up the underseat storage area for the Stealthbox.
I heard the Harmon Kardon system in a friend's TRX and was kinda glad mine came with the Alpine... lol. I was also looking at the Hideaway at first but for me personally, I didn't think the low power would have satisfied my preference. Even with the 2x 10"s at 800W RMS, I kinda wish I had just a little bit more oomph to them... but I used to have two 12" Kicker L7's in a massive ported box (1500W RMS) in my 4Runner, which took up nearly the entire rear cargo area. Nonetheless, I'm super happy with the tradeoff in space and sound quality that the JL Audio brings. There's no rattling on the outside of my truck when the bass is thumping, and in fact you can hardly hear the bass from outside. I think Ram must've put in some decent sound dampening material from the factory.
Just one word of caution if you do get the JL Audio Stealthbox... checking the impedance at the terminals with a multimeter isn't enough to confirm if they are wired properly. The nincompoops that assembled mine mixed up the wiring at the terminal on the inside of the box, so one of the subs was wired out of phase with the other, which completely killed all sound waves the woofers created. It may be a good idea to check the sub wiring and terminal wiring before installing!
Mister 4x4
Active Member
Yes - your info is most helpful... thanks again!
I'm thinking more and more that I wish I would've gotten the Laramie Sport I'd been looking at, rather than this Limited Longhorn my wife found... it would've been cheaper, had the Alpine system, and would've been a lot less 'Yee-Ha' than the rodeo-themed interior I now have (I am very much NOT a Texan, despite living in San Angelo). Now, having said all that, I really do love the truck and have a few plans for making it more 'mine.'
Yes, I was talking about the storage bins under the back seat. The MTX box took away those bins on my 2012, so I'm happy to have them back with the '21... but I'm willing to give up one of them, if that's where the Hideaway (or whichever one I go with) happens to wind up residing. Under the driver seat would be optimal, but I need to scope it all out to find the room to make a home for that add-on powered sub.
Good info about PAC gain control knob - it's nice to know that if the powered sub doesn't come with its own, there would be an option. Having that gain control will be huge for me. I listen to a LOT of different kinds of music, so setting the B-M-T (EQ) to an overall workable curve is the best I can do, but a lot of tunes (like most of the '80s & early '90s rock tunes) just don't have a lot of bass or fullness built-in, hence the gain control knob - dial it up a bit for those tunes, and back down again when something newer with better engineering and production comes on.
I ain't gonna lie: as well as the H-K subs handle the better-engineered tunes, I'm not entirely unhappy with the system. If there was just a way to better fine-tune the EQ curve and adjust the gain for the subs on-the-fly, that would be awesome. I've been tossing around an idea of pulling the H-K subs out of the system's control, wire up separate amps (with their own gain control) and place them back into the mix. In theory, that would actually accomplish what I'm hoping to have, but I'm thinking that would be too much of a PITA... most likely ruining the spiritual creaminess of rest of the H-K system and make things worse (for instance, I'm sure there's some noise-cancelling going on, and the sound processor would probably do some weird stuff to compensate). I'll just stick with an add-on - my MTX was 400w RMS, and honestly was just about all I needed with that system. Most tunes ran with the gain around 3-4... some up to 8-ish, and a few even got bumped down to 1 or so. That's the flexibility and augmentation I'm looking for - just keep 'em all filled in as needed.
Some people would suggest just using Sirius (since the recording levels are already optimized), but in all honesty I ran through everything one day, and just like the first few times I played with Sirius in other cars, "there are a 1000 channels, but nothing I want to listen to."
Thanks again for the info and insight!
I'm thinking more and more that I wish I would've gotten the Laramie Sport I'd been looking at, rather than this Limited Longhorn my wife found... it would've been cheaper, had the Alpine system, and would've been a lot less 'Yee-Ha' than the rodeo-themed interior I now have (I am very much NOT a Texan, despite living in San Angelo). Now, having said all that, I really do love the truck and have a few plans for making it more 'mine.'
Yes, I was talking about the storage bins under the back seat. The MTX box took away those bins on my 2012, so I'm happy to have them back with the '21... but I'm willing to give up one of them, if that's where the Hideaway (or whichever one I go with) happens to wind up residing. Under the driver seat would be optimal, but I need to scope it all out to find the room to make a home for that add-on powered sub.
Good info about PAC gain control knob - it's nice to know that if the powered sub doesn't come with its own, there would be an option. Having that gain control will be huge for me. I listen to a LOT of different kinds of music, so setting the B-M-T (EQ) to an overall workable curve is the best I can do, but a lot of tunes (like most of the '80s & early '90s rock tunes) just don't have a lot of bass or fullness built-in, hence the gain control knob - dial it up a bit for those tunes, and back down again when something newer with better engineering and production comes on.
I ain't gonna lie: as well as the H-K subs handle the better-engineered tunes, I'm not entirely unhappy with the system. If there was just a way to better fine-tune the EQ curve and adjust the gain for the subs on-the-fly, that would be awesome. I've been tossing around an idea of pulling the H-K subs out of the system's control, wire up separate amps (with their own gain control) and place them back into the mix. In theory, that would actually accomplish what I'm hoping to have, but I'm thinking that would be too much of a PITA... most likely ruining the spiritual creaminess of rest of the H-K system and make things worse (for instance, I'm sure there's some noise-cancelling going on, and the sound processor would probably do some weird stuff to compensate). I'll just stick with an add-on - my MTX was 400w RMS, and honestly was just about all I needed with that system. Most tunes ran with the gain around 3-4... some up to 8-ish, and a few even got bumped down to 1 or so. That's the flexibility and augmentation I'm looking for - just keep 'em all filled in as needed.
Some people would suggest just using Sirius (since the recording levels are already optimized), but in all honesty I ran through everything one day, and just like the first few times I played with Sirius in other cars, "there are a 1000 channels, but nothing I want to listen to."
Thanks again for the info and insight!
ramButz
Ram Guru
i have the alpine in my 2019.i used the "AmpPro".and a 5ch amp.i ran my speakers wire from the door all the way to the back where my amp is.its what we call"oldSchool" 
.all my door speakers and my home made "DIY"sub all run from my amp under the seat.but as for my dash and rear ceiling speaker,they are still run of my stock amp.dont need an ANC(alpine) or the little knob that came with the "AmpPro"
.all my door speakers and my home made "DIY"sub all run from my amp under the seat.but as for my dash and rear ceiling speaker,they are still run of my stock amp.dont need an ANC(alpine) or the little knob that came with the "AmpPro"Attachments
Mister 4x4
Active Member
Nice! So you basically juiced up all the heavy hitters with the Fosgate 5-Channel, and the Amp-Pro's bass knob lets you fill-it-in or back-it-off as needed? That's pretty awesome, I must say - I like Fosgate stuff, too (I had some 10" Punches in my blue '85 Nissan 4x4 a LONG time ago)! Is the MTX 35 Series in your DIY box an 8" or 10"? I have a set of 10" Terminators for my '71 Mach 1, and I might decide to split up the pair and go singles in each car, but they're probably too deep. I'm also thinking that for a single sub like that, I might just hafta go with a Kicker Solobaric (those things are incredible) and continue with the dual-box for the Mustang. You've given me some inspiration and a few other options I hadn't considered. Nice job!i have the alpine in my 2019.i used the "AmpPro".and a 5ch amp.i ran my speakers wire from the door all the way to the back where my amp is.its what we call"oldSchool"
ramButz
Ram Guru
hey thanksss for the kind words.its a "rarity" here
.this just my opinion only.but all you need is a single subwoofer speaker.the one i use is a 10".its great for the inside.it will sound like you have 2 -10s or 12.but if you want to be heard out side your truck then yes go with 2 12"inch subwoofer or 4 if you want to turn headsAttachments
Mister 4x4
Active Member
No worries, Man! I like your inventory there. I had some 6x9 Infinity Kappas in my 2012 along with a powered MTX Thunderform (2 10" Terminators) - LOVED that system... and miss it badly, too. My '97 had a similar recipe, but its Thunderform wasn't powered, so I drove it with an MTX Sledgehammer 400w 2-ch. I love car audio!hey thanksss for the kind words.its a "rarity" here
I'm thinking a single sub will do - I just need to fill-in the bass on some tunes, and back off on others (when a Styx tune comes on, crank it up a bit... but when the next tune is Linkin Park, definitely need to back it off a tad... that kind of stuff).
It's good to see what others came up with so I can have options, though.
derichio02
Member
I just purchased the JL Audio Stealthbox and will be checking the phase(thanks). I am looking at options and I like the AmpPro Sub option but for some reason Crutchfield says it doesnt fit my 2021 with the 12" screen and Alpine 9 Speaker system. If I change the year to 2020, or 2019 it says it compatible. According to Crutchfield the only solution is the full 6 channel AmpPro but I'm literally only looking at adding a sub. Did they change something in 2021?
Also for ANC bypass under the sear I was looking at JLL Customs bypass but not sure if it will work - https://lljcustoms.com/store/ols/products/2019-ram-anc-bypass
