Air conditioning Hack

[Jtr]

Just finished my install. A few observations. If your Advance Auto doesn't have the parts, O'Reilly can find them using the same numbers. I had to go to two O'Reilly stores.

Pretty sure you could not pay me to do it again. Reason? That tension hose clamp. If I were doing it again, I would destroy it and use a third clamp of the other type. I did so poorly working with it I fear I will have a leak when I open the valve in Winter.

Finally, I am not certain I am actually getting any benefit. If so, it's no more than 3/4 degrees. That's on a limited drive though. I have to take a longer drive this afternoon, so I will test again.

You probably need to get out for about 15 mins and open the hemi a bit and you'll notice the difference.

 

[KcRay]

I get that the supposed reason is what it's for but many here are using it as a full time workaround fix and I have not heard of any hose burst failures as of yet because of the clamp. My way of doing it is to periodically loosen the clamp maybe once a month and move it an inch or so along the hose either way in order to not have it tightened down in one spot for too long or for the hose to take a set. Again, last year I only used the clamp in NJ for the hottest 2 - 2.5 months (mid June - end of August) and then fully removed the clamp until now when I reinstalled it. Do you know of anyone who has used the clamp method who had a hose burst or other issue because of the clamp?

I do not.

 

[Jack]

That was on May 19, 2019......UMMMMMM



Jhill said:
I have spread the word in private message to RamCares to please share this info to the engineers that it is an obvious blend door issue. They agreed that they would. I have also emailed TFLtruck and got a reply from Andre Smirnov that they will look into AC temps as they haven't experienced warm weather yet. I also told him results of shutting down coolant flow. I am sure informing these 2 sources should "turn up the heat" on the engineers for a resolution.

Thanks man

 

[Dookie]

The link posted here points to a solenoid valve that is the normally closed type, which surprised me. I think most of us were expecting the NO type would be specified, which seems a bit safer. Were it to fail it would fail to the default state.

There is a NO equivalent valve, though it's $20 more expensive:

1/2" 12V DC Stainless Steel Solenoid Valve N/O

This 12 Volt DC Stainless solenoid valve is in the normally open position until it is powered. The valve can be connected with standard 1/2" NPT pipe fittings.

www.electricsolenoidvalves.com

I linked the normally closed because that is what I would use for south Louisiana, I run my a/c way more than the heat, so I would want the valve to be closed when not energized and get maximum cooling most of the time. Then when the heat is needed, energize the valve to allow flow to the heater core.
I think N/O would probably be better for someone in a colder climate area.

 

[FYRSTIX]

Makes sense, Dookie.

It occurred to me that this problem isn't just an inability to achieve sufficient cooling under high heat load conditions, but even under moderate conditions the A/C has to work harder than would otherwise be necessary. So it's a matter of overall (poor) efficiency, such that the compressor has to be engaged more often/longer. That can't be good for the longevity of the system. Fuel economy is probably affected as well, but perhaps not enough to be noticeable.

 

[Jack]

Has anyone contacted FCA leaderships? You can look them up on FCA page and find them on Linked in or twitter.

Official Global Website

Welcome to the Official Global Website of Stellantis, a leading global automaker and provider of innovative mobility solutions.

www.fcagroup.com

 

[Jordan2929]

I was able to get 38 degree ac with my solenoid closed then when I turned the switch off it warmed up to 47 degrees. The ambient outside temp was about 88 and my truck was sitting in direct sunlight. And as for some people thinking they will only have to turn their valve twice a year, I turn mine on and off almost daily. I like to drive with the windows down and when I do I like to have the solenoid open but when I want ac I’ll just flip the switch and it’s that easy. Definitely wouldn’t wanna deal with a manual valve.

 

[Jtr]

I managed to get a 39° reading out of my middle left vent today. That's a 13 degree drop from averages before. It certainly helped after sweating my a$$ on the golf course in mid 90°s temps. This hack has changed the game and I'm so thankful.

 

[User_3336]

so, this might have been answered a while back, BUT..

What do you do if you must go in for service? This is a mod you can't really reverse quickly. How do you explain what this is?

 

[KcRay]

I have been in dealer 3 times for service, no one noticed. If they would have noticed, (frankly), I would have told them it is not their concern.

 

[busa2009]

Curious if you have to burp the system after doing this


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[PMantle]

Twice a year? I may never open mine again. Between heated seats and wheel, I almost never use heat.

 

[KcRay]

Curious if you have to burp the system after doing this


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Concerning the installation procedure, yes it's a good idea. Open the radiator cap, refill and run vehicle till you see coolant moving.

 

[Jtr]

Concerning the installation procedure, yes it's a good idea. Open the radiator cap, refill and run vehicle till you see coolant moving.

+1 I lost a little more coolant than I would have anticipated even with clamping down the hose prior to the install and did exactly this after the install. It wasn't a big deal and it didn't take much added coolant to settle things out

 

[ramhead]

I have been in dealer 3 times for service, no one noticed. If they would have noticed, (frankly), I would have told them it is not their concern.

That might work if it is a unrelated problem you're in the shop to get fixed but, rest assured, if there is an issue that involves the line being messed with they will surely question it, document it and most probably deny warranty coverage because of it....your protestations notwithstanding, LOL.

 

[ramhead]

so, this might have been answered a while back, BUT..

What do you do if you must go in for service? This is a mod you can't really reverse quickly. How do you explain what this is?

The only sure answer if you do this mod with the valve install is you have to hope they don't notice it and if they do, they don't give you a hard time or deny service. Don't know where you live but if you are at all concerned with this angle then use the line clamp method - It's mentioned and shown upthread....it's a 10 second install/removal process and no evidence is left of it being used.

 

[Le_Slacker]

I’ve setup a clamp but only roughly 90% closed

There’s definitely a difference - but my wife complained about being too cold before I did this, and I found it just acceptable. She hasn’t been in since, and it’s better than acceptable now. I suspect she will be a danger to glass.

 

[RVTRKN]

Just installed my automatic solenoid, just flip a switch under the steering wheel and the heater core is shutoff. View attachment 58471

When I started reading this thread, this was my thought, was to add a solenoid for better control, however I was thinking of a threeway valve to return the water back to the system. I live in Vegas, and we are entering the summer with a bang, were now going to be at 109* for the highs, this next week. Although it will be the first full summer in my 2019 3500, it did just fine at the end of last summer. I want to know more of the engineering side of the design, freezing the evaporator can be a detrimental to your system. I performed the replacement of my own evaporator on my old 94 Dodge Ram 2500HD gasser, after it froze. I do have a warranty I'm worried about.

 

[KcRay]

That might work if it is a unrelated problem you're in the shop to get fixed but, rest assured, if there is an issue that involves the line being messed with they will surely question it, document it and most probably deny warranty coverage because of it....your protestations notwithstanding, LOL.

I get where your coming from, but it's just a rubber heater hose, not an AC line or anything. Now if I were to come in with a heater core problem, (leaking or clogged or whatever) and they see a shut off valve, I would have a problem.
Cheers,

 

[JimD007]

The basic legal principal for warranties is I do not have the right to claim the dealer is responsible to fix damage due to a change I made. The dealer does not have the right to disclaim responsibility for damage that is not caused by something I did. There are no "gotchas". No opportunity for the dealer to observe a claim and they say you do not have a warranty. I am quite confident that this change will not cause degradation in my truck. If that is true, it has no effect on the warranty.

I did not closely track the temperatures prior to closing this valve but the only temperature on my truck that runs slightly above the middle tick on the scale is the transmission temperature. The change, for the V6 models, may push more coolant through the transmission heater. I am interested to see what it reads when I open the valve in the fall. It is not running close to the hot end, just slightly above the middle tick.