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Air conditioning doesn't cool well

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alex3610

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Bought my ram back in November and never really needed the a/c until the last few days where it has suddenly gotten into the 80's. Basically unless its set on LO, recirc, and fan on max, it barely gets cool. It really seems like something is wrong, as its not like its 120 outside or whatever. I've tried searching and haven't come up with much, but I did stumble across some heater core bypass kits on amazon but I feel like this is not normal and there should be a better solution than that. 2019 Limited E-Torque crew cab 4x4 in case it matters.

Thanks!
 
alex3610 said:
Bought my ram back in November and never really needed the a/c until the last few days where it has suddenly gotten into the 80's. Basically unless its set on LO, recirc, and fan on max, it barely gets cool. It really seems like something is wrong, as its not like its 120 outside or whatever. I've tried searching and haven't come up with much, but I did stumble across some heater core bypass kits on amazon but I feel like this is not normal and there should be a better solution than that. 2019 Limited E-Torque crew cab 4x4 in case it matters.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Lots of threads on this issue.
AIUI, it's either a recall or a TSB (<- TSB states to do the repair if customer complains, so about as good as a recall?), and the dealer will fix this. It's a blender door issue???

From what I've read, the fix seems to result in MUCH better cooling.
 
Unfortunately you're out of the 3/36 warranty so you would have to pay for the TSB
 
Yep I took my 2020 in for this very issue. Got it fixed with a TSB and was marginally better. It was the deciding factor in trading it in...just not cold enough for me.
 
Some Rams shipped from factory with a low refrigerant charge. Could always have it checked. Seems like 19s and early to mid year 2020s were effected. My late year 2020 has been awesome for A/C performance. Set it to auto and 68 in summer. Even with sunshade for sunroof wide open cooks just fine. I do have tint all around, including windshield.

But on an 80 degree day that shouldn't be an issue.
 
Just put a Harbor Freight hose-clamp on this hose...you'll **** when you see how much colder the ac gets...put it on in spring, take off in fall. You don't have to clamp it super crazy tight...just tight enough to squeeze the hose like 3/4 ways closed.
 

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You’ll either have to do the AC hack or have this TSB done. I tried the hack first to verify what the problem was, then had the TSB done. Works awesome now
 

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Any idea what the TSB will cost me should Ram not cover it (which I'm not getting my hopes up for)? Going to throw a clamp on it this week to see how that helps too in the meantime.
 
The valve is the way to go
 
SpeedyV said:
That TSB was very “involved”, right? Total dash teardown?
Click to expand...
Yes sir. They did a great job. I couldn’t find any evidence of the tear down.

Here’s my hack. Bought a valve from Lowe’s

9FBAEFC1-60C3-44D0-AC64-C5627A6848AF.jpeg
 
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you are more likely to have issues with the valve set up, than a simple hose clamp. With the clamp there is no cutting of the OEM hose, leading to potential leaks from 2 CLAMPED ends of a now cut hose, or the valve itself failing. The HF clamp will NOT damage the hose in anyway, they are designed not to "pinch" the hose, and unless you live in Florida or similar type climate...the clamp is only on for 3-4 months a year. Do what you want, but I wouldn't hack up my oem hose if a 1 minute clamp job did the same thing.
 
OldMarine said:
you are more likely to have issues with the valve set up, than a simple hose clamp. With the clamp there is no cutting of the OEM hose, leading to potential leaks from 2 CLAMPED ends of a now cut hose, or the valve itself failing. The HF clamp will NOT damage the hose in anyway, they are designed not to "pinch" the hose, and unless you live in Florida or similar type climate...the clamp is only on for 3-4 months a year. Do what you want, but I wouldn't hack up my oem hose if a 1 minute clamp job did the same thing.
Click to expand...
The clamp is essentially kinking the hose to prevent water flow. Over time this damages the hose to the point it will be the weak spot in the hose. Most factory heater hoses already have a splice point in the middle somewhere. Use good hose clamps, not the worm gear drive ones, and there shouldn't be any issues with leaks. To each their own though.
 
HSKR R/T said:
The clamp is essentially kinking the hose to prevent water flow. Over time this damages the hose to the point it will be the weak spot in the hose. Most factory heater hoses already have a splice point in the middle somewhere. Use good hose clamps, not the worm gear drive ones, and there shouldn't be any issues with leaks. To each their own though.
Click to expand...
This
 
nope, the clamp does NOT kink the hose, just constricts it a little if you don't crank the **** out of it...I'd much rather have 1 weak point, than 3.....
 
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When i clamped my hose, over time it started to smash it and make the walls of the hose thinner. That's why I switched to the valve. Glad its working for you tho.
 
you clamped it too tight man. My 19 shows absolutely no damage...how would it make the walls thinner? "Each line clamp is specially designed to stop flow without damaging or compromising the hose." HF Clamp kit
 
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