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Aftermarket Amp and 12” sub install in a HK LIMITED!

Installed the spacers today. They lift the seat up Just enough for proper clearance.

Now, I have full motion of the reclining seats, although it is not smooth as the seats still rest on the box. I can recline while seated, but it takes a bit of effort and the box will sometimes slide forward with me.

Be aware that raising the seats throws off the geometry slightly of the latch mechanism. If you have the recline in the full, upright position, you cannot latch the seat back if it was unlatched. You have to recline forward completely to latch the seatback. Once latched, you can go back to full upright recline, but you can tell there is pressure on the latch that doesn't want to the seats to go all the way back.

I hope I explained it well enough.

Overall, I love the box. The sound is great, though I may add some polyfill to it to bring the box volume closer to the subs recommendation. I'm using JL 10W0v3.

I am disappointed that I had to add spacers. I bought the 10" version because the 12" required spacers and I didn't want to go down that road...it was not clear up front that spacers would be required. I had 2 12" subs already....

The experience from Fox Acoustics was not great. Lack of communication on the spacers and relatively slow shipping are my gripes. Joe Fox responded quickly to my emails and had a tracking number for the spacers I needed that day, though they didn't actually ship them until 2 days later.

I was surprised that Joe asked to use my pics for his site, though he hasn't posted them yet.

View attachment 28271View attachment 28272View attachment 28273View attachment 28274View attachment 28275View attachment 28276

I hope this helps someone and made sense. Having a few celebration brews!
How thick were the spacers they provided?
 
ok cool thank you. how tall is the box in the front. 10"?
 
Installed the spacers today. They lift the seat up Just enough for proper clearance.

Now, I have full motion of the reclining seats, although it is not smooth as the seats still rest on the box. I can recline while seated, but it takes a bit of effort and the box will sometimes slide forward with me.

Be aware that raising the seats throws off the geometry slightly of the latch mechanism. If you have the recline in the full, upright position, you cannot latch the seat back if it was unlatched. You have to recline forward completely to latch the seatback. Once latched, you can go back to full upright recline, but you can tell there is pressure on the latch that doesn't want to the seats to go all the way back.

I hope I explained it well enough.

Overall, I love the box. The sound is great, though I may add some polyfill to it to bring the box volume closer to the subs recommendation. I'm using JL 10W0v3.

I am disappointed that I had to add spacers. I bought the 10" version because the 12" required spacers and I didn't want to go down that road...it was not clear up front that spacers would be required. I had 2 12" subs already....

The experience from Fox Acoustics was not great. Lack of communication on the spacers and relatively slow shipping are my gripes. Joe Fox responded quickly to my emails and had a tracking number for the spacers I needed that day, though they didn't actually ship them until 2 days later.

I was surprised that Joe asked to use my pics for his site, though he hasn't posted them yet.

View attachment 28271View attachment 28272View attachment 28273View attachment 28274View attachment 28275View attachment 28276

I hope this helps someone and made sense. Having a few celebration brews!
I think you just convinced me to go this route. I assume you stuck your amp on the back wall? Can you tell me the route you went to get the audio signal? I have my power cable ran but still figuring out how to get the easiest cleanest signal.
 
Has anyone tapped into the stock HK sub wires for signal to the LC2i? I'd prefer not to have to tap in the signal from front speakers and run RCA all the way back. Much rather keep everything isolated on the rear wall with a short set of RCAs from the LC2i to my amp. Not at all opposed to eliminating the stock sub and enclosure in favor of the new subs and using its existing recessed location as a mounting point, but I also dont want to remove stock and deal with the ACN issues others have seen. Any thoughts/advice here?
 
So which color wires do we pull to disable the rear ANC mics? Or just do them all, rather go with LC2i then spend the extra money on amppro
 
This is my experience, and your results may vary.

I have a limited with the Alpine system. I have replaced every stock speaker with the JBL GX963 for the 6x9s and JBL GX302 for the 3.5s. Actually I started with the Infinity reference ref-3032cfx in the dash corners and then ordered the JBLs - 2 sets. I have since moved the infinity reference 3.5s to the rear headliner just today. I used the corresponding Metra wiring harness based on crutchfield so no splicing at any location.

I pulled the entire back half of the trucks interior and layered 100% coverage of Noico 80mil deadener and Noico 170mil closed cell foam over the deadener - 100% coverage. This was for every inch from the back bolts of the front seats up to the rear glass. I used 91% (I think) isopropyl alcohol to prep all surfaces for adhesion.

I initially unpinned the stock sub and used 2 of the 3 channels to feed my Rockford Fosgate 500x1d Amp and had 2 12" Rockford fosgate r2d2 primes in a shallow mount box behind each back seat. It barely fit and the seats had to be full recline to accommodate. It was awkward for passengers and the box was undersized and overall, the sound was very very wrong. Either super boomy at very low levels or bad distortion at the slightest gain setting.

I hated this. I also had issues with ANC by using the stock sub wires to feed the amp. The ANC only really, in my opinion, cancels out the sound from the motor by playing inverse notes from the motor through the stock sub. When those notes where amplified by my Rockford amp and played on 2 12" subs - it was agonizingly obvious and abhorrent. I unpinned the ANC negative mic wires and all seemed ok - just drone from the motor itself, especially during MDS. This was only obvious and annoying to me - going from ANC to no ANC, I can hear everything the motor was doing when I muted music.

I finally decided to pony up the cash and do it right. I got a Pac Amppro to pull a clean signal. I got the dual 10" foxbox and 2 JL 10W0v3.

The Pac Amppro has a sub level remote, which works like a remote Gain controller and hid that up front. My Amps gain is at max and the Amppro is at half or more/less depending on music type. The Rockford amp has a remote "punch" level which lets me control bass boost level, which is accessible up front as well.

This setup let me get the beautiful bass I was looking for. I also re-installed the stock sub and hooked up ANC to quiet up the motor noises in the cab - zero issues!

Everything works beautifully and sounds great together. I lost a touch of overall volume maybe turning up to 10 is like turning up to 9 now. But, turning it all the way up still sounds clean and clear and too loud for comfort in my opinion. The loudest I enjoy is 28-30 on the volume which I think goes up to 38 for some odd reason.

I can control the bass on a song by song basis, it hits hard and clean and the ANC has given me no issues even though I changed out the 6x9s. I have not taken it to highway speeds with this setup, but if I have issues with ANC at any point, I will update this.

I know this was long, but I hope it helps anyone going down this rabbit hole. The most important morale of the story is GET THE PAC AMPPRO or equivalent to pull a clean signal. If you arent willing to pony up the cash for this, you wont be happy with your end result. Learn from me and do it right the first time. Leave ANC alone, leave stock sub alone. Swap door speakers and dash to your hearts extent and get the right size box and sub combo and you will be in heaven.
 
Btw, I asked in other threads and could not find an answer. This pdf shows which color wires are pinned in the correct order to the stock sub if you ever need to put it back.

This is for the Alpine system.
 

Attachments

Swung by my shop to see how the box was coming along. Having some issues with the exterior finish, so delayed again. Shop owner gave me a whole box of MESA sound dampening sheets at a steep discount as a consolation, so I ran home with just enough time to pull back the carpeting and line the floor and back wall before it started raining. Pretty awesome of the shop though. Think we could be finished up with this install by the end of the week if shipping doesn’t take too long on the AmpPRO.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
if our replacing the stock amp do the dsr1. the dsr1 along with the idatalink harness is cake. dont even have to remove the factory radio and the 360 dsp/eq is awesome.
 
Really happy with how the box ended up turning out. Clean, sits right in the fold down divider under the rear seat so I don’t have to modify the truck at all. Get everything wired up and reassemble the interior tomorrow.
0c33a09d7de6dbaeb3ac941d8f9b52bd.jpg
50f124e1ea5fdc7a5d7797e7a165581d.jpg
b9718b255cec1a1acd818b5d39b7d140.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Really happy with how the box ended up turning out. Clean, sits right in the fold down divider under the rear seat so I don’t have to modify the truck at all. Get everything wired up and reassemble the interior tomorrow.
0c33a09d7de6dbaeb3ac941d8f9b52bd.jpg
50f124e1ea5fdc7a5d7797e7a165581d.jpg
b9718b255cec1a1acd818b5d39b7d140.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I love your set up, I want to be able to use the storage area under the floor mat. Do you know how much air volume the box has ??
 
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I skimmed through this thread and want to be clear - Where does the stock subwoofer signal come from? Is there a port behind the 12" screen or do you need a DSR1 or PAP? Seems like its fairly plug and play assuming you dont touch any of the other speakers?

In my predecessor truck a 2013 Ram with stock Alpine sub I had very good luck just taking signal from the stock sub wire. The real reason behind that was to retain the stock subwoofer control. I believe it sounded good because it was already crossed over low.

I will likely start with that again on this truck (stock sub signal) because I like the idea of the stock integrated fader which I believe I would loose with a signal processor or electronic crossover although I realize that option offers way more tunability.


The amp I have which is a JL Audio 500/1 known as the old Slash series is self adjusting when it comes to inputs so I just run stock subwoofer signal right into the RCAs and the amp does the rest no need for LOC line out converters. Here is a pic of a black vinyl covered board I will mount the amp to behind the passenger side back seat.
 
I skimmed through this thread and want to be clear - Where does the stock subwoofer signal come from? Is there a port behind the 12" screen or do you need a DSR1 or PAP? Seems like its fairly plug and play assuming you dont touch any of the other speakers?
You need to use an adapter behind the 12" screen like the pac amp pro or dsr1 and that is pretty much plug n play.
 
This is my experience, and your results may vary.

I have a limited with the Alpine system. I have replaced every stock speaker with the JBL GX963 for the 6x9s and JBL GX302 for the 3.5s. Actually I started with the Infinity reference ref-3032cfx in the dash corners and then ordered the JBLs - 2 sets. I have since moved the infinity reference 3.5s to the rear headliner just today. I used the corresponding Metra wiring harness based on crutchfield so no splicing at any location.

I pulled the entire back half of the trucks interior and layered 100% coverage of Noico 80mil deadener and Noico 170mil closed cell foam over the deadener - 100% coverage. This was for every inch from the back bolts of the front seats up to the rear glass. I used 91% (I think) isopropyl alcohol to prep all surfaces for adhesion.

I initially unpinned the stock sub and used 2 of the 3 channels to feed my Rockford Fosgate 500x1d Amp and had 2 12" Rockford fosgate r2d2 primes in a shallow mount box behind each back seat. It barely fit and the seats had to be full recline to accommodate. It was awkward for passengers and the box was undersized and overall, the sound was very very wrong. Either super boomy at very low levels or bad distortion at the slightest gain setting.

I hated this. I also had issues with ANC by using the stock sub wires to feed the amp. The ANC only really, in my opinion, cancels out the sound from the motor by playing inverse notes from the motor through the stock sub. When those notes where amplified by my Rockford amp and played on 2 12" subs - it was agonizingly obvious and abhorrent. I unpinned the ANC negative mic wires and all seemed ok - just drone from the motor itself, especially during MDS. This was only obvious and annoying to me - going from ANC to no ANC, I can hear everything the motor was doing when I muted music.

I finally decided to pony up the cash and do it right. I got a Pac Amppro to pull a clean signal. I got the dual 10" foxbox and 2 JL 10W0v3.

The Pac Amppro has a sub level remote, which works like a remote Gain controller and hid that up front. My Amps gain is at max and the Amppro is at half or more/less depending on music type. The Rockford amp has a remote "punch" level which lets me control bass boost level, which is accessible up front as well.

This setup let me get the beautiful bass I was looking for. I also re-installed the stock sub and hooked up ANC to quiet up the motor noises in the cab - zero issues!

Everything works beautifully and sounds great together. I lost a touch of overall volume maybe turning up to 10 is like turning up to 9 now. But, turning it all the way up still sounds clean and clear and too loud for comfort in my opinion. The loudest I enjoy is 28-30 on the volume which I think goes up to 38 for some odd reason.

I can control the bass on a song by song basis, it hits hard and clean and the ANC has given me no issues even though I changed out the 6x9s. I have not taken it to highway speeds with this setup, but if I have issues with ANC at any point, I will update this.

I know this was long, but I hope it helps anyone going down this rabbit hole. The most important morale of the story is GET THE PAC AMPPRO or equivalent to pull a clean signal. If you arent willing to pony up the cash for this, you wont be happy with your end result. Learn from me and do it right the first time. Leave ANC alone, leave stock sub alone. Swap door speakers and dash to your hearts extent and get the right size box and sub combo and you will be in heaven.
So to clarify... is there a way to use the DSR1 and leave the ANC and factory sub installed? I was under the assumption the connections to the ANC had to be used with the DSR1.

Seems like this would also create an issue with the factory sub competing with the aftermarket subs, although they would obviously over power the factory sub. The factory sub would still play a factor in the overall low frequency response at lower volumes.
 
the dsr 1 does not use the anc. the anc is built into the factory amp. the dsr1 is used when you are replacing the factory amp.
 

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