Adding Rear Console USBs

[klemo]

There was a thread on here a while back about adding the OEM rear console USBs and 115v outlet to trucks that currently don't have it. I saw some good options on the thread, but a lot of people decided to just make their own rather than go about the OEM way due to price. I ended up finding a laramie console trim on eBay with the USBs and 115v at a good price and deciding to pull the trigger. I decided to go ahead and order the wire harness I needed that would give me rear access to the USBs and outlet (Part 68387136AB). Removed the console yesterday and installed all of the parts and the wire harness. One of the reasons I wanted to go the OEM route was to grant USB carplay access to the back, as I usually take my truck on road trips or vacations, and have that allowance for friends who want to play music from the back (Not the end of the world if I can't get this feature to work, but still would be nice). I can deal with the backseat USBs just being charging only, but I also don't have power to my 12V outlet in the back. Maybe others could help with this, or at worst this thread could be useful for those seeking to do this. I have attached some pictures of what the install looked like and will make a step-by-step if others need it.

The rear USBs are working after the install, but both sets just are charge only. I thought maybe this might be an AlphaOBD feature to allow the radio to show the option for the 3rd USB, since the first and second USB show on the radio regardless of anything plugged in. See picture.


I tried activating 4 alpha codes figuring maybe the BCm needs to recognize the backseat option as a playable USB
ECU config 3: Power Inverter Present
ECU config 18 USB Connectivity Present
Cabin net VES2 Vehicle Entertainment 2nd row AND Last row

No luck. I think the Cabin net VES2 codes are for DVD players maybe?

My first guess is maybe I am missing a fuse for the power feed. I checked the Fuse diagram in the manual and found what I think would be the needed fuse location, F54B. The current layout had the 20 Amp fuse in location F54A, so I moved that fuse to the B slot, figuring this would solve the issue. No dice. I did some research on this and found this is for the 12v cig lighter port


My second guess is that maybe a missing Inverter is needed for this outlet. I thought this wouldn't be likely since my truck came with the 12V cigarette lighter port, and I think I remember reading something about all three outlets sharing the same current distribution from a single inverter (Correct me if I'm wrong). I don't have the wiring diagram, but I'm sure that would answer this question.

So that's where I am with this, I know people have gone from the jumpseat to the console and vice versa and I read through that thread, but no mention of adding the usbs/outlet if they didn't already have one. Maybe some bright people on this thread could help me out!

 

[klemo]

I'm Tagging the man, the myth, the legend @Jimmy07

 

[2019Rebel0747]

There was a thread on here a while back about adding the OEM rear console USBs and 115v outlet to trucks that currently don't have it. I saw some good options on the thread, but a lot of people decided to just make their own rather than go about the OEM way due to price. I ended up finding a laramie console trim on eBay with the USBs and 115v at a good price and deciding to pull the trigger. I decided to go ahead and order the wire harness I needed that would give me rear access to the USBs and outlet (Part 68387136AB). Removed the console yesterday and installed all of the parts and the wire harness. One of the reasons I wanted to go the OEM route was to grant USB carplay access to the back, as I usually take my truck on road trips or vacations, and have that allowance for friends who want to play music from the back (Not the end of the world if I can't get this feature to work, but still would be nice). I can deal with the backseat USBs just being charging only, but I also don't have power to my 12V outlet in the back. Maybe others could help with this, or at worst this thread could be useful for those seeking to do this. I have attached some pictures of what the install looked like and will make a step-by-step if others need it.

The rear USBs are working after the install, but both sets just are charge only. I thought maybe this might be an AlphaOBD feature to allow the radio to show the option for the 3rd USB, since the first and second USB show on the radio regardless of anything plugged in. See picture.
View attachment 135687

I tried activating 4 alpha codes figuring maybe the BCm needs to recognize the backseat option as a playable USB
ECU config 3: Power Inverter Present
ECU config 18 USB Connectivity Present
Cabin net VES2 Vehicle Entertainment 2nd row AND Last row

No luck. I think the Cabin net VES2 codes are for DVD players maybe?

My first guess is maybe I am missing a fuse for the power feed. I checked the Fuse diagram in the manual and found what I think would be the needed fuse location, F54B. The current layout had the 20 Amp fuse in location F54A, so I moved that fuse to the B slot, figuring this would solve the issue. No dice. I did some research on this and found this is for the 12v cig lighter port
View attachment 135685

My second guess is that maybe a missing Inverter is needed for this outlet. I thought this wouldn't be likely since my truck came with the 12V cigarette lighter port, and I think I remember reading something about all three outlets sharing the same current distribution from a single inverter (Correct me if I'm wrong). I don't have the wiring diagram, but I'm sure that would answer this question.

So that's where I am with this, I know people have gone from the jumpseat to the console and vice versa and I read through that thread, but no mention of adding the usbs/outlet if they didn't already have one. Maybe some bright people on this thread could help me out!
View attachment 135689

Thanks for doing this. The other thread ending up getting hijacked with people custom wiring USB ports because of the cost. I can appreciate that but I want the factory look and will pay for it. I got a great deal on my truck by taking it off the lot and am slowing adding the options i would have ordered.

If you have any pics or detailed instructions about taking apart the center console i'd appreciate it.

As far as the 110 outlet not working, do you have the factory CD player? How about the 110 outlet in the front/bottom of the center console? I'm just wondering if there is a different wiring harness that may work.

There was another member @FM45 determined to work this out but he never posted whether he was successful or not. And yeah maybe @Jimmy07 would be able to chime in. He helped me and many others get passive entry to work when that seemed impossible

 

[klemo]

Sorry, I am just seeing this. I agree that I wanted to go about this path with OEM as much as possible. I will try to give you a little write-up for you and others interested. I ended up figuring out the reason why the outlet doesn't work, I outline it in this write-up, but it has to do with a missing inverter (what I had thought, but hoped it wasn't). I still am searching for the rear Carplay USB fix if anyone can help with this......as for the write-up:

1. You will have to remove the center console to run the wire harness. I bought the wire harness that had the rear USBs and Rear 115v outlet W/O CD Player (part #68387136AB). Removing the console is pretty easy, but if you need some help, watch this video

2. You need to remove the trim piece on the back to add the new back plate. I don't have any pictures of how to remove the back plate from the console, but I will try to best explain it. To remove that trim piece (Air vents, cupholder, USBs, and storage piece), take off the plastic wood-like brim near the cupholders by using a trim tool remover or just prying it upward with your fingers. After that, you will need to remove two screws that are uncovered after removing the wood-like brim that hold the back trim plate to the console assembly. After you remove those screws, you can just pull the back plate towards the rear of the truck and that should completely free it.

Once that is removed, you should be looking at something like this:

Notice how I just have one wire going to the USB located inside the armrest.

3. Next I ran the new wire harness in the same grooves that the original was in (The new wire is shown on the right in the photo below. There are 4 cables on this one. One for the 115v outlet, two for the rear USBs, and One for the center console USB.) If you want to run it in the same spot as the original, you will need to remove the rear air vents. This can be done by just removing some screws along the vent path and it comes right up. Once you've run the wire harness, you can go ahead and add the rear vent tubes back.



4. When the vent is back in place you can attach your console back in place. You have two options, either go ahead and connect the front half of the console or the back trim that you removed. I did the front first and worked on the back with the console secured in place. Just follow the same steps you did to remove them in reverse order. I have included two pictures of the wiring layout. The first is for the rear trim piece. Connect the grey wire housing to the 115v 0utlet port. Connect the wire housing with the red clip to the driver-side USB (These red clips slide up to unlock and are pushed in place to lock. You will see when you have the wires on hand). Connect the black wire housing to the passenger side USB. As for the front, I connected the smaller grey wire housing to the passenger side USB and the black wire housing to the middle USB (Not shown in the picture, but it's the empty space). The larger grey wire housing goes to the driver-side port. On the other end of the wire, I just connected the large black housing and the grey housing to where they go leading into the front radio section of the truck.




Finished Product:




The issue, as outlined above, with the rear 115v Outlet is due to a missing inverter. There should be an inverter behind the radio that is included with the trucks that have the outlets. You can see brackets in the pictures I attached of where the inverter should be. I am not an expert on this, but I assume a wire harness is needed alongside purchasing the inverter. Honestly, it's about $80 for a used OEM 400w inverter, it might just be worth it to go aftermarket on a 1000w inverter for around $100 and rig something up to use your OEM plugs. I might tackle this in the future, but for now, I'm content with the rear USBs.....If only I can get the carplay to work!

 

[Curlymurt]

Were these wires already there? Or part of a new harness?

What is the trim level on your truck? Have level 1 or we level 2 equipment package?

Fuse 60 in the interior power distribution panel (under steering column) is, I believe, the fuse for the inverter. I've got a fuse in it, but no inverter. I've got an OE inverter to install, I just can't find the harness to it. On the back of the interior power panel, I found connector J4 is empty. I'm wondering if that goes to the inverter with the proper harness. Should be able to see it from the floor board without taking the under steering wheel panel off.

Does that make sense at all?

 

[2019Rebel0747]

Sorry, I am just seeing this. I agree that I wanted to go about this path with OEM as much as possible. I will try to give you a little write-up for you and others interested. I ended up figuring out the reason why the outlet doesn't work, I outline it in this write-up, but it has to do with a missing inverter (what I had thought, but hoped it wasn't). I still am searching for the rear Carplay USB fix if anyone can help with this......as for the write-up:

1. You will have to remove the center console to run the wire harness. I bought the wire harness that had the rear USBs and Rear 115v outlet W/O CD Player (part #68387136AB). Removing the console is pretty easy, but if you need some help, watch this video

2. You need to remove the trim piece on the back to add the new back plate. I don't have any pictures of how to remove the back plate from the console, but I will try to best explain it. To remove that trim piece (Air vents, cupholder, USBs, and storage piece), take off the plastic wood-like brim near the cupholders by using a trim tool remover or just prying it upward with your fingers. After that, you will need to remove two screws that are uncovered after removing the wood-like brim that hold the back trim plate to the console assembly. After you remove those screws, you can just pull the back plate towards the rear of the truck and that should completely free it.

Once that is removed, you should be looking at something like this:
View attachment 136542
Notice how I just have one wire going to the USB located inside the armrest.

3. Next I ran the new wire harness in the same grooves that the original was in (The new wire is shown on the right in the photo below. There are 4 cables on this one. One for the 115v outlet, two for the rear USBs, and One for the center console USB.) If you want to run it in the same spot as the original, you will need to remove the rear air vents. This can be done by just removing some screws along the vent path and it comes right up. Once you've run the wire harness, you can go ahead and add the rear vent tubes back.

View attachment 136544

4. When the vent is back in place you can attach your console back in place. You have two options, either go ahead and connect the front half of the console or the back trim that you removed. I did the front first and worked on the back with the console secured in place. Just follow the same steps you did to remove them in reverse order. I have included two pictures of the wiring layout. The first is for the rear trim piece. Connect the grey wire housing to the 115v 0utlet port. Connect the wire housing with the red clip to the driver-side USB (These red clips slide up to unlock and are pushed in place to lock. You will see when you have the wires on hand). Connect the black wire housing to the passenger side USB. As for the front, I connected the smaller grey wire housing to the passenger side USB and the black wire housing to the middle USB (Not shown in the picture, but it's the empty space). The larger grey wire housing goes to the driver-side port. On the other end of the wire, I just connected the large black housing and the grey housing to where they go leading into the front radio section of the truck.

View attachment 136545
View attachment 136557 View attachment 136547

Finished Product:
View attachment 136551



The issue, as outlined above, with the rear 115v Outlet is due to a missing inverter. There should be an inverter behind the radio that is included with the trucks that have the outlets. You can see brackets in the pictures I attached of where the inverter should be. I am not an expert on this, but I assume a wire harness is needed alongside purchasing the inverter. Honestly, it's about $80 for a used OEM 400w inverter, it might just be worth it to go aftermarket on a 1000w inverter for around $100 and rig something up to use your OEM plugs. I might tackle this in the future, but for now, I'm content with the rear USBs.....If only I can get the carplay to work!

View attachment 136552 View attachment 136553

I see the harness you ordered is w/o the cd player. Do you not have the factory CD player? What about the 115v outlet down in the front of the center console? I have the outlet and the cd player...just not the rear usb's and the rear outlet. I wonder if that is why the inverter is missing on yours? I am amassing all the parts for an 8.4 to 12.1 screen upgrade, adding the wireless charging pad, and i'd like to add these ports also at the same time.

 

[THFD334]

I see the harness you ordered is w/o the cd player. Do you not have the factory CD player? What about the 115v outlet down in the front of the center console? I have the outlet and the cd player...just not the rear usb's and the rear outlet. I wonder if that is why the inverter is missing on yours? I am amassing all the parts for an 8.4 to 12.1 screen upgrade, adding the wireless charging pad, and i'd like to add these ports also at the same time.

I’m curious about the wiring harness as well. I’m not too concerned about the outlet, nor the media play. I just want the factory USB’s to be charging ports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MikePaige89]

Hello, new to the forum. I want to add this to my truck. Has anyone made a list of all the parts needed to add the usb and 115v outlet? Electrically as well as trim pieces. I have searched through the forum, but can't find an answer.

 

[HYLTONzero]

Sorry, I am just seeing this. I agree that I wanted to go about this path with OEM as much as possible. I will try to give you a little write-up for you and others interested. I ended up figuring out the reason why the outlet doesn't work, I outline it in this write-up, but it has to do with a missing inverter (what I had thought, but hoped it wasn't). I still am searching for the rear Carplay USB fix if anyone can help with this......as for the write-up:

1. You will have to remove the center console to run the wire harness. I bought the wire harness that had the rear USBs and Rear 115v outlet W/O CD Player (part #68387136AB). Removing the console is pretty easy, but if you need some help, watch this video

2. You need to remove the trim piece on the back to add the new back plate. I don't have any pictures of how to remove the back plate from the console, but I will try to best explain it. To remove that trim piece (Air vents, cupholder, USBs, and storage piece), take off the plastic wood-like brim near the cupholders by using a trim tool remover or just prying it upward with your fingers. After that, you will need to remove two screws that are uncovered after removing the wood-like brim that hold the back trim plate to the console assembly. After you remove those screws, you can just pull the back plate towards the rear of the truck and that should completely free it.

Once that is removed, you should be looking at something like this:
View attachment 136542
Notice how I just have one wire going to the USB located inside the armrest.

3. Next I ran the new wire harness in the same grooves that the original was in (The new wire is shown on the right in the photo below. There are 4 cables on this one. One for the 115v outlet, two for the rear USBs, and One for the center console USB.) If you want to run it in the same spot as the original, you will need to remove the rear air vents. This can be done by just removing some screws along the vent path and it comes right up. Once you've run the wire harness, you can go ahead and add the rear vent tubes back.

View attachment 136544

4. When the vent is back in place you can attach your console back in place. You have two options, either go ahead and connect the front half of the console or the back trim that you removed. I did the front first and worked on the back with the console secured in place. Just follow the same steps you did to remove them in reverse order. I have included two pictures of the wiring layout. The first is for the rear trim piece. Connect the grey wire housing to the 115v 0utlet port. Connect the wire housing with the red clip to the driver-side USB (These red clips slide up to unlock and are pushed in place to lock. You will see when you have the wires on hand). Connect the black wire housing to the passenger side USB. As for the front, I connected the smaller grey wire housing to the passenger side USB and the black wire housing to the middle USB (Not shown in the picture, but it's the empty space). The larger grey wire housing goes to the driver-side port. On the other end of the wire, I just connected the large black housing and the grey housing to where they go leading into the front radio section of the truck.

View attachment 136545
View attachment 136557 View attachment 136547

Finished Product:
View attachment 136551



The issue, as outlined above, with the rear 115v Outlet is due to a missing inverter. There should be an inverter behind the radio that is included with the trucks that have the outlets. You can see brackets in the pictures I attached of where the inverter should be. I am not an expert on this, but I assume a wire harness is needed alongside purchasing the inverter. Honestly, it's about $80 for a used OEM 400w inverter, it might just be worth it to go aftermarket on a 1000w inverter for around $100 and rig something up to use your OEM plugs. I might tackle this in the future, but for now, I'm content with the rear USBs.....If only I can get the carplay to work!

View attachment 136552 View attachment 136553

I just saw this forum and I’ve been trying to do the same thing. I used the wiring harness out of a donor ram along with the rear outlet and the usb hub. When I plug it in to the truck, it works for 20 minutes then I can’t get it to work again. That’s the usb hub and the power outlet. Are your USB plugs working and if so, how did you solve this mystery.

 

[brental1]

Sorry, I am just seeing this. I agree that I wanted to go about this path with OEM as much as possible. I will try to give you a little write-up for you and others interested. I ended up figuring out the reason why the outlet doesn't work, I outline it in this write-up, but it has to do with a missing inverter (what I had thought, but hoped it wasn't). I still am searching for the rear Carplay USB fix if anyone can help with this......as for the write-up:

1. You will have to remove the center console to run the wire harness. I bought the wire harness that had the rear USBs and Rear 115v outlet W/O CD Player (part #68387136AB). Removing the console is pretty easy, but if you need some help, watch this video

2. You need to remove the trim piece on the back to add the new back plate. I don't have any pictures of how to remove the back plate from the console, but I will try to best explain it. To remove that trim piece (Air vents, cupholder, USBs, and storage piece), take off the plastic wood-like brim near the cupholders by using a trim tool remover or just prying it upward with your fingers. After that, you will need to remove two screws that are uncovered after removing the wood-like brim that hold the back trim plate to the console assembly. After you remove those screws, you can just pull the back plate towards the rear of the truck and that should completely free it.

Once that is removed, you should be looking at something like this:
View attachment 136542
Notice how I just have one wire going to the USB located inside the armrest.

3. Next I ran the new wire harness in the same grooves that the original was in (The new wire is shown on the right in the photo below. There are 4 cables on this one. One for the 115v outlet, two for the rear USBs, and One for the center console USB.) If you want to run it in the same spot as the original, you will need to remove the rear air vents. This can be done by just removing some screws along the vent path and it comes right up. Once you've run the wire harness, you can go ahead and add the rear vent tubes back.

View attachment 136544

4. When the vent is back in place you can attach your console back in place. You have two options, either go ahead and connect the front half of the console or the back trim that you removed. I did the front first and worked on the back with the console secured in place. Just follow the same steps you did to remove them in reverse order. I have included two pictures of the wiring layout. The first is for the rear trim piece. Connect the grey wire housing to the 115v 0utlet port. Connect the wire housing with the red clip to the driver-side USB (These red clips slide up to unlock and are pushed in place to lock. You will see when you have the wires on hand). Connect the black wire housing to the passenger side USB. As for the front, I connected the smaller grey wire housing to the passenger side USB and the black wire housing to the middle USB (Not shown in the picture, but it's the empty space). The larger grey wire housing goes to the driver-side port. On the other end of the wire, I just connected the large black housing and the grey housing to where they go leading into the front radio section of the truck.

View attachment 136545
View attachment 136557 View attachment 136547

Finished Product:
View attachment 136551



The issue, as outlined above, with the rear 115v Outlet is due to a missing inverter. There should be an inverter behind the radio that is included with the trucks that have the outlets. You can see brackets in the pictures I attached of where the inverter should be. I am not an expert on this, but I assume a wire harness is needed alongside purchasing the inverter. Honestly, it's about $80 for a used OEM 400w inverter, it might just be worth it to go aftermarket on a 1000w inverter for around $100 and rig something up to use your OEM plugs. I might tackle this in the future, but for now, I'm content with the rear USBs.....If only I can get the carplay to work!

View attachment 136552 View attachment 136553

What a great post. Thanks. I'm in the process of swapping Laramie heat/vented/power pass./memory driver into my 2022 BH with Level 1 Equipment Group. Fortunately, I got the cabin and IP harnesses from the donor truck and am in the process of building a "supplemental" harness (about 20 wires) because my truck had none of the wires to make the seats work. The donor seats also include a jump center seat/console with the rear USB ports and 115V outlet.
During the process of stealing the seat wires from the donor harness, I discovered the wires for the inverter and outlet are present in it. I just pulled the wires. Complicated! Wires run across the IP to various connectors and down the T to the center console. I THINK I've identified the wires well enough to transplant into my truck. I can make better documentation if anyone wants it.
1. Thanks so much for the tip on the screws on the rear cover of the console. I almost broke mine.
2. Did you add 1 or 2 115V outlets? If 2, does the console harness you added allow for two? Do you have PN for the harness?
3. Were you able to get one of the rear USBs to handle data, or are they still charge only? If you got data, how did you do it.

Thanks, Brent

 

[brental1]

The donor seats include the jump seat/console front seat. They had 115V outlet and USBs. I thought; easy peasy; just swap the insert from the donor to my truck. (I'm retaining my center console--not using the jump seat). Well, must have been 2 designers. The inserts are not at all similar. I'm struggling to find a PN for the insert for the the full console version. Anyone know? Thanks, Brent

 

[brental1]

Has anyone found a part number for the "end cap insert"? I have the end cap insert with the large storage bin and no USB or 115V jacks--which I'm trying to add. On all the Mopar parts sites, the part is shown as # 31; but there are no PNs listed for 31. As I posted above, the insert from the jump seat/console I have will not interchange with the full console in my truck.

 

[brental1]

Has anyone found a part number for the "end cap insert"? I have the end cap insert with the large storage bin and no USB or 115V jacks--which I'm trying to add. On all the Mopar parts sites, the part is shown as # 31; but there are no PNs listed for 31. As I posted above, the insert from the jump seat/console I have will not interchange with the full console in my truck.

Bump, anyone have PN information?

 

[brental1]

Bump, anyone have PN information?

 

[brental1]

Does anyone have a PN for the "interconnect" cable to connect the rear USB jacks to the front. I don't know if it has to be an OE part number. Maybe just a generic USB connector cable.

 

[6of36]

Does anyone have a PN for the "interconnect" cable to connect the rear USB jacks to the front. I don't know if it has to be an OE part number. Maybe just a generic USB connector cable.

Try post #1

 

[brental1]

Try post #1

Thanks. However, I already bought 68523474AA with has provision for heated/vented rear seats and 115V outlet; but it did not include the USB cable. I was looking for the USB cable only. Don't really want to spend another $90+ for 68387136AB just to take the USB cable out of it--especially since the OP was only able to make the rear USBs charge only.

 

[klemo]

I was still not able to get the rear USBs to transfer data. That might be a problem that could be solved by more knowledgeable people in this forum....

 

[6of36]

Thanks. However, I already bought 68523474AA with has provision for heated/vented rear seats and 115V outlet; but it did not include the USB cable. I was looking for the USB cable only. Don't really want to spend another $90+ for 68387136AB just to take the USB cable out of it--especially since the OP was only able to make the rear USBs charge only.

Rear USBs only come charge only.

 

[6of36]

Page 4 of the build sheet for my Limited.

*
*
STEERING WHEEL MOUNTED AUDIO CTRLS
ACCENT COLOR SHARK FIN ANTENNA
MEDIA HUB-2 USB, FULL FUNCT, AUX
AUDIO JACK INPUT FOR MOBILE DEVICES
REMOTE USB PORT
MEDIA HUB-2 USBS (BOTH CHARGE-ONLY)
REMOTE USB PORT - CHARGE ONLY