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A Comprehensive Guide to Towing with the 2019 RAM 1500 - Everything You Need to Know!

Cueva del Osos

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Where are you starting from? You really aren't going to be working it that hard until you turn east out of Washington. I pull #9000 with a Limited and 5.7, and don't worry about changing until about 5000-7000 when towing. A piece of advice, stay off of the I-5 as long as you can. We usually turn north at Bakersfield and don't hit the 5 until just north of Sacramento. That way we don't have to pull over the Grapevine Hill. That is a grade I won't pull unless it is a have-to. Only other bit of a pull is over the Sisque pass(4000') in Oregon.
We’re in the Sangre de Christo range east of Santa Fe. We do intend to avoid the I-5 when possible. The bulk of our north travel s/b US-395 but I confess I didn’t check the pass elev we would encounter and now I find that we may be too early in the calendar to safely drive that route. Really wanted to camp @ Mammoth and do a couple day trips into Yosemite. I thought late May would be safe, but seems it’s good odds that Tioga pass wouldn’t be open that early. Guess the 101 is an option. Kinda back at square 1 now...
 

Willwork4truck

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We’re in the Sangre de Christo range east of Santa Fe. We do intend to avoid the I-5 when possible. The bulk of our north travel s/b US-395 but I confess I didn’t check the pass elev we would encounter and now I find that we may be too early in the calendar to safely drive that route. Really wanted to camp @ Mammoth and do a couple day trips into Yosemite. I thought late May would be safe, but seems it’s good odds that Tioga pass wouldn’t be open that early. Guess the 101 is an option. Kinda back at square 1 now...
Not too many road choices there.

Did you get any RAM mailed out oil change coupons? I recently got 2 postcard type flyers, one was 3 changes for $55 and the other was 4 changes for $70. Now they are both 5 qts regular oil and you have to pay the $2.50 per qt increase (hemi's take 7) but still, those are cheap changes. You have 24 months to use the coupon and you pre-purchase. Mine both expire Nov 8th.

Not sure why you would change differential fluids, I'd think transmission would be a concern first. It's not that diffs don't heat up but gosh, that's early. Are you monitoring your trans and oil temps on the hard pulls?
 

Cueva del Osos

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Not too many road choices there.

Did you get any RAM mailed out oil change coupons? I recently got 2 postcard type flyers, one was 3 changes for $55 and the other was 4 changes for $70. Now they are both 5 qts regular oil and you have to pay the $2.50 per qt increase (hemi's take 7) but still, those are cheap changes. You have 24 months to use the coupon and you pre-purchase. Mine both expire Nov 8th.

Not sure why you would change differential fluids, I'd think transmission would be a concern first. It's not that diffs don't heat up but gosh, that's early. Are you monitoring your trans and oil temps on the hard pulls?

Yep, road choices when you're crossing major mountain chains are indeed limited. We, fortunately, live close to Glorietta pass, so we have easy access to Santa Fe. As for the Sierras: it seems that most roads over the chain run SW to NE and not SE to NW - which does us no favors. This should probably move to a different chain (destinations/routes) rather than this one on physical towing attributes.

Thanks for the service coupon info. I did buy a 5-pack from my dealer, but those are only at my dealer (oil & rotation: 5 for $200). I'll look into the corporate level option.

I've had Honda (and Acura, same thing) for so long prior to this truck that I'm conditioned to get the diff flushed every 10k at the longest (Honda's AWD comes with heavy maintenance - flush em or watch your diff chew itself into shavings).

I do monitor my temps..at all times. Love the programmable dash on the Ltd - I have a gauge for radiator temp, but I put oil & trans temps on the left and right side of my programmables (Speedo on top and mileage screen in center...definitely helps me keep my lead foot under some added control). Under the worst grade/distance pull to date (Raton Pass) my oil topped at 255º and trans topped at 195º and radiator barely budged. After cresting, both temps quickly dropped back to where they run normally (225ish/175ish).

I've been warned by a couple of neighbors (with experience) that US-395 north from Bishop to Lee Vining is a long-a$$ grade and that too many overheat going up Tioga Pass (I'm smart enough to know you can't run AC while towing up a multi-mile, steep grade).
 

Willwork4truck

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Sounds like you have it under control. Glad that the oil, coolant and trans temps are ok for you. Perhaps running full synthetic (if available) in the diffs would be wise?

I googled the Honda Pilot AWD diffreential fluid changes and one of the replies certainly agrees with what you said (bolding is mine):
Wanderer
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#3 Jan 24, 2018
For 3rd-gen Pilot ( 2016+ ) the first rear diff fluid change should come up on the MM at about 15k miles, and then about 30k miles later. This is a different differential than previous generations of Pilot, and different service interval. For "severe service" such as frequent towing or lots of mountain driving, Honda recommends changing fluid at 7.5k miles and then every 15k miles. But MM won't show that. The exact mileage at which the MM will indicate "6" service is due will vary because the MM is programmed to "bundle" major service items with an oil change.

This ain't your granddaddy's 4WD. The Honda/Acura system is sophisticated and fuel efficient, but it does require relatively frequent fluid changes. Your choice on whether to change now, let the MM nag you for another "15% oil life" and then do it, or wait until next oil change or whenever. But the MM has no way to know that you "skipped it to do later" once it is reset for the oil change, so YOU will have to remember to do it then, and the next "6" interval will be short because the MM still won't know what the heck you are doing. So I would just do the rear diff fluid change now.
 
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Mlibertini

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Anyone running an aftermarket transmission cooler on a 2020 1500 yet? If so, which?


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silver billet

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Anyone running an aftermarket transmission cooler on a 2020 1500 yet? If so, which?


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I was under the impression that all our trucks came from the factory with a transmission cooler and that it was more than sufficient. Have you been getting high temps while towing?
 

Nails

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We have 2 coolers. Coolant & air at condenser heat transfer efficiency is top notch. I would be interested and buy a thermostat delete/bypass tho.
 

Mlibertini

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I was under the impression that all our trucks came from the factory with a transmission cooler and that it was more than sufficient. Have you been getting high temps while towing?

They do have one. I am asking if anyone has put on an additional. Cooler tranny temp is always a good idea whether it’s high or not. I’ve had a Titan for 12 years. Added one and reduced temps from 190 to 160 while towing. 190 isn’t high but 30 degrees is 30 degrees and adds quite the cushion.


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silver billet

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They do have one. I am asking if anyone has put on an additional. Cooler tranny temp is always a good idea whether it’s high or not. I’ve had a Titan for 12 years. Added one and reduced temps from 190 to 160 while towing. 190 isn’t high but 30 degrees is 30 degrees and adds quite the cushion.


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Fair enough, I have to admit to being somewhat curious about this myself. I plan to start towing a fair amount in the future so if there is an aftermarket cooler that can reduce by 30 degrees in the middle of summer, I might have to spring for that too.
 

Nails

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Lower engine t-stat will help.
Still, need to remove trans thermostat before you will seen big lower numbers you and to see
 

Mlibertini

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Fair enough, I have to admit to being somewhat curious about this myself. I plan to start towing a fair amount in the future so if there is an aftermarket cooler that can reduce by 30 degrees in the middle of summer, I might have to spring for that too.

Check out etrailer.com. They have a few. Just have to measure to see if you have the room which I believe there’s plenty. Good luck!


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raven_DT

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Yep, road choices when you're crossing major mountain chains are indeed limited. We, fortunately, live close to Glorietta pass, so we have easy access to Santa Fe. As for the Sierras: it seems that most roads over the chain run SW to NE and not SE to NW - which does us no favors. This should probably move to a different chain (destinations/routes) rather than this one on physical towing attributes.

Thanks for the service coupon info. I did buy a 5-pack from my dealer, but those are only at my dealer (oil & rotation: 5 for $200). I'll look into the corporate level option.

I've had Honda (and Acura, same thing) for so long prior to this truck that I'm conditioned to get the diff flushed every 10k at the longest (Honda's AWD comes with heavy maintenance - flush em or watch your diff chew itself into shavings).

I do monitor my temps..at all times. Love the programmable dash on the Ltd - I have a gauge for radiator temp, but I put oil & trans temps on the left and right side of my programmables (Speedo on top and mileage screen in center...definitely helps me keep my lead foot under some added control). Under the worst grade/distance pull to date (Raton Pass) my oil topped at 255º and trans topped at 195º and radiator barely budged. After cresting, both temps quickly dropped back to where they run normally (225ish/175ish).

I've been warned by a couple of neighbors (with experience) that US-395 north from Bishop to Lee Vining is a long-a$$ grade and that too many overheat going up Tioga Pass (I'm smart enough to know you can't run AC while towing up a multi-mile, steep grade).
What is a normal oil and transmission temp range for our trucks?
 

smcleod417

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Tires do not matter, what the other capacities are do not matter.

The truck has been certified at either 7100 or 6900. Subtract base weight for payload.

Upgrade your tires they will give better control. Upgrade your shocks and springs they will give you better control...but they will not increase your payload.
This is too black and white. Tires do matter as well as other capacities. Making upgrades (such as improved tires, shocks, springs, etc..) can increase your "safe" payload capacity. What upgrades can not do, without recertification, is increase your legal payload capacity. The difficult part of making upgrades to increase the safe, but not legal, payload capacity is determining how much increase you are getting, as we the public don't have the details on the limits of all the systems (i.e. brakes, frame, engine, transmission, suspension, wheels, etc....). With quality LT tires, I personally am comfortable exceeding my trucks sticker/legal payload, while staying below all other stated capacities (with a focus on GAWR's and GCWR). Lastly, everyone pulling any substantial loads, please take your loaded rig to some scales and don't guess. Almost every truck stop has them, it costs less than $15 and only takes a few minutes.
 

SpeedyV

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What upgrades can not do, without recertification, is increase your legal payload capacity.
Having seen most, if not all, of @devildodge’s posts on this forum, I think you just restated his point. Lots of upgrades are available to boost capacity over sticker, but not everyone knows it’s illegal and (potentially) dangerous. That said, I’m not trying to be controversial; I appreciate you addressing the safety angle.
 

devildodge

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Yeah, @SpeedyV

I was very confused when I first read that... @smcleod417 took my first sentence out of context and then said exactly what I always say.

What my post meant if you read it in context with what I replied to.

You should upgrade your tires and shocks etc. They will make it safer...but they will not increase your capacities legally
 
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Thanks for all the info on this thread. I’m having a tough time finding true tow capabilities on my recently purchased 2019 Longhorn and have learned a lot from reading here. I’m a little confused on all the math and conflicting opinions so I’m looking for solid info. It’s too early for me to trade up to a 2500 without losing big money so I’m hoping for some reassurance here. Someone on this thread referenced how “out there” some of the RV forums are with opinions and bad info so I appreciate the real deal guys here.

I never had to worry about this kind of stuff before because the vehicle I had prior to this was a 2017 Limited with the 6.7 Cummins. Unfortunately it started leaking oil around the crank seal at 29k miles. That repair required the front of the engine to be taken off. Within 2k miles it had to be done again. It was under warranty but I didn’t have confidence in it after that. FCA was nice enough to make a payment for me since I was without it for over a month total, I thought that was pretty decent of them. The major repairs combined with all the recalls, I decided it was time to trade when the low coolant light lit shortly after the second engine repair. We tow a travel trailer and reliability is important, it was also my daily driver. I’ve owned several Dodge/Ram trucks and have always had good experience until that one.

I bought another 1500 because they had really upped the capability and it was rated to tow within the weight range of our trailer. Before I purchased the truck on Sept 8, 2019 I did the VIN search which showed the specific truck to have a tow capability of 11,300 lbs and max payload of 1840. Fast forward to Feb 7, 2020 I decided to search again and was shocked to discover it had dropped to 11,255.53 tow and 1355.53 max payload. I kept screen shots of both. I’m not sure what happened there but I lost a lot of cargo carrying capability. I’m concerned about my true capability since we recently purchased a new travel trailer that weighs 9,058 lbs with 2013 lbs cargo carrying capability. We tow dry and only carry 1,000 lbs or less so we would be under 10,000. I weigh stuff as I take it in the trailer so that‘s a solid estimate.

The tongue weight for the new trailer is 1130 lbs which was 5 lbs over factory specs. I called RAM and spoke to their reps, let them know I was using a weight distribution hitch but was thinking of upgrading the receiver to a class V that would give me a higher tongue weight capability of 1700 lbs and asked if it would void my warranty. They advised I was ok in either situation as long as I wasn’t towing above the factory weight of 11,255. I could hear her typing so hopefully they have the record if something goes wrong. I kept my notes too.

So as it stands now I believe the truck to have the following ratings:
GVWR - 7100
GAWR Front - 3900
GAWR Rear - 4100
Max tow - 11,255.53
Max cargo - 1355.53
tongue - 1700 lbs

Factors for consideration in towing:
Family including dog - 500 lbs
10,000 lb trailer

I’m going to add a Hellwig adjustable rear sway bar to strengthen the rear end and eliminate as much sway as I can. I realize the upgraded class V receiver and sway bar will add some weight but not much. It has 4 corner air suspension and seems to work well under the stress of our old 6,500 lb trailer. I intend to weight everything on the CAT scales once we pick up the new trailer.

Anyone out there have any input on my situation. Looking for someone to say you should probably be ok.
 
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Cueva del Osos

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Before I purchased the truck on Sept 8, 2019 I did the VIN search which showed the specific truck to have a tow capability of 11,300 lbs and max payload of 1840. Fast forward to Feb 7, 2020 I decided to search again and was shocked to discover it had dropped to 11,255.53 tow and 1355.53 max payload. I kept screen shots of both. I’m not sure what happened there but I lost a lot of cargo carrying capability. I’m concerned about my true capability since we recently purchased a new travel trailer that weighs 9,058 lbs with 2013 lbs cargo carrying capability. We tow dry and only carry 1,000 lbs or less so we would be under 10,000. I weigh stuff as I take it in the trailer so that‘s a solid estimate.

The tongue weight for the new trailer is 1130 lbs which was 5 lbs over factory specs. I called RAM and spoke to their reps, let them know I was using a weight distribution hitch but was thinking of upgrading the receiver to a class V that would give me a higher tongue weight capability of 1700 lbs and asked if it would void my warranty. They advised I was ok in either situation as long as I wasn’t towing above the factory weight of 11,255. I could hear her typing so hopefully they have the record if something goes wrong. I kept my notes too.

So as it stands now I believe the truck to have the following ratings:
GVWR - 7100
GAWR Front - 3900
GAWR Rear - 4100
Max tow - 11,255.53
Max cargo - 1355.53
tongue - 1700 lbs

Factors for consideration in towing:
Family including dog - 500 lbs
10,000 lb trailer


[/QUOTE]
I've 'read' that the VIN search isn't reliable. But as you're asking for factual info, I'd say a) what's the payload listed on your door sticker - since that includes all factory options added to your truck? and b) get to a CAT scale and then deduct that weight from the 7,100 GVWR to get your true payload available. That 7,100 is a fixed value that doesn't care about the trim level or added options, so you're best to start there and get that true CAT weight to calc your available.

There's some disagreement in the boards and other info I've dug up on whether fuel deducts from the available payload showing on the sticker, but a true weight from a CAT scale subtracted from the GVWR eliminates that argument. You'd just need to increase your CAT weight (on paper) for any fuel weight missing due to less than a full tank - that would give you the true available payload when you have a full tank. You could then go the extra step and get a front axle/rear axle/trailer axle weighing for the real picture of your tongue weight (for a 'visit', CAT charges $10.50 for first weight, $2 for the second and $0 for a third if you want - scope out their app).

You can fudge the tongue weight a bit by being precise with your loading of the trailer...weight behind the trailer axle adds less to the tongue weight than weight carried in front of the trailer axle (but don't go too far off the old 60% front/40% back rule or you'll risk on-road handling when you're towing!). All weight sums against the GVWR for the trailer, but you can maximize your tow ability by keeping heavy stuff centered or just behind the trailer axle/ We carry all drinking liquids in the dinette slide-out - which rides exactly over the axles and balances the appliances on the opposite side. Then we load the basement evenly, left to right, put an equal amount of weight in the closet at the rear of the trailer and keep heavier clothing hanging in the front closets (primarily to counter any black/grey water we might carry and those tanks are in our rear and the fresh tank is up front- which we rarely carry fresh). By careful/balanced loading, we've gotten our tongue weight as low as 10% of the trailer GWVR vs the 12% we typically get if we're not as precise. For us, that's just over 110# saved, which is substantial when you're talking 1,350# available payload.

One final unsolicited personal thought: while I don't exceed any of the limits when we tow, we all know these trucks have some measure of excess capacity built into them. If you DO feel the need to exceed any of the limits, please at least keep your speed down and avoid towing on windy days. My experience towing with the RAM so far would lead me to believe you're better off with a slightly overloaded combo driven in good conditions at lesser speed than a safely loaded combo driven too fast or in bad conditions.
 

namechecksout

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Anyone know where I can find GCWR for the 1500 2020 EcoDiesel line? RAM doesn’t have it on their site for specific vehicles by VIN (which I also understand has inaccurate data anyway), dealers often list either no number or the same number across multiple models (making that info untrustworthy), and the 2019 FCA Master Chart didn’t include EcoDiesel among the engine options.

Huge thanks in advance!

By the by, this thread should be mandatory reading for people who plan to buy a truck specifically for towing purposes. Hats off for the eduction.
 

Guzzibob

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Does anyone know if the air suspension will still adjust properly if used with a weight distribution hitch. I have a 2020 limited ecodiesel.
 

Trooper4

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Does anyone know if the air suspension will still adjust properly if used with a weight distribution hitch. I have a 2020 limited ecodiesel.
Air suspension will work up to and and a little over the rated payload of the truck. If you are overweight though, it will lock out after you hit the road. I use it to hook up after I center under the hitch by lowering, backing under the coupler, and then raising the truck to take the weight off the jack and then setting up the bars. then get in the truck and hit the normal ride height button. Wonderful technology we have here. here is one of many youtubes--https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bkH9RZV2A0
 
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