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A/C Performance

Traditionally the water pumps first job is to move water through the engine that just came from the radiator, and then back again. It is going to do this no matter what is happening with the heater core. A long time ago someone decided to tap into the water pump to get some hot water to a miniature radiator in your dash, so you could blow air through it and get heat in the cabin. It really is that simple. Remember the older cars had a cable going to the heater control valve inline of the heater hose we are tapping into, or pinching off. Plato would be proud of all of you, and your inventions!
For those concerned about if flow restriction could damage engine cooling, there are at least 3 Youtube videos showing water pump replacement on earlier years Ram trucks with 5.7 Hemi engine. The videos let you see that the black metal tube that "out" heater hose is connected to comes from a cavity in pump just behind thermostat housing where coolant comes out of upper engine under pressure and the "in" heater hose hooks to a port next to lower radiator hose that supplies coolant for water pump. The videos let you see front and back of water pump as well as what engine front mounting area looks like without pump installed. Its worth watching to see just how the cooling system parts are designed. Maybe KcRay can explain route that pressure would travel if we close "out" heater hose totally off. Is it thermostat path back through upper hose to radiator? What if thermostat closed when engine cold? Could excess pressure build when thermostat closed?
 
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Here is what I finally did. . . . I didn't want to perm. install a shut off valve in case I had to take the truck in for warranty service (I mean, how do you "undo" that easily?)

I did grab some of those clamps at Harbor Freight, but I didn't really like the way it pinched the hose on one side (being as these clamps are not meant to be used permanently.

I wanted some to clamp, but evenly on both sides where it would not seem to damage the hose over time.

So I brainstormed, and here is what I came up with. Some flat zinc plates you find in the hardware section. (they're actually called mending plates).

My thinking is what it would "pinch" the hose, but evenly on both sides but still restricting coolant into the heater core.

So, I cut a sock (black in the pic), wrapped it around the part of the hose where I was going to "clamp", and put some tape around it.

Next, I put a bolt and screw on one end of the plate (barely tightened), and put it over the hose, got it tight, then put a bolt and screw over the other end, and tightened them up. Seemed perfect, tight, and less evasive then the H.F. clamps.

It was still 85 degrees out when I tested this afternoon, but WOW! my a/c temps were COLD!!!! I didn't have my vent thermometer, but my arm was getting cold. When I have time, I will post vent temps. Strangely, the right vent off the center stack was colder that the others.

My coolant temps on the gauge didn't seem affected.

Just wanted to clarify IF is no "pressure" to be maintained from the water pump into the heater core and back (being as its not restricted due to the clamps).

NOTE! I did still have heat but more coming out of the right center stack.....only warm out of the others)...

Anyways, I am happy with this mod. Its quickly reversible if need to take in for service. And I'm sure enjoying this cooler air!!!!!

Amazing what you can think of, and its even cheaper than the HF clamps. Total cost $2.

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Thought I would try this. Picked up this ground clamp at Lowes. In the second pic, you can see that I’ve flipped the bottom piece upside down, thinking that it’ll squeeze the “out” hose to restrict the flow enough to to help keep the cold air cold. I’m hoping that I want have to tighten the clamp too much and that it want damage the hose. Waiting til the engine bay cools to install it.

The coldest the center, driver’s side vent blows now is about 52 degrees, which isn’t too bad but it should be colder. And the passenger side vent blows about 47 degrees. Again, not too bad. But in our Central Texas summers, I’d like it to be colder. My 2015 Mustang, which I recently sold, would blow 42 degrees even on the hottest days.

What a shame that on $63k (MSRP) trucks, we have to Jerry rig the ACs so they perform correctly.
 

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For those concerned about if flow restriction could damage engine cooling, there are at least 3 Youtube videos showing water pump replacement on earlier years Ram trucks with 5.7 Hemi engine. The videos let you see that the black metal tube that "out" heater hose is connected to comes from a cavity in pump just behind thermostat housing where coolant comes out of upper engine under pressure and the "in" heater hose hooks to a port next to lower radiator hose that supplies coolant for water pump. The videos let you see front and back of water pump as well as what engine front mounting area looks like without pump installed. Its worth watching to see just how the cooling system parts are designed. Maybe KcRay can explain route that pressure would travel if we close "out" heater hose totally off. Is it thermostat path back through upper hose to radiator? What if thermostat closed when engine cold? Could excess pressure build when thermostat closed?
It just takes the path of least resistance, back to the radiator or the bypass hose back to the engine if thermostat is closed.The heater core is just a side job.
 
What a shame that on $63k (MSRP) trucks, we have to Jerry rig the ACs so they perform correctly.

I am not taking issue with you but just these comments in general. I see them all the time on different forums, if you bought a brand new tradesman with rubber floors that came off the same assembly line AND had the same issue with junk A/C is it still a shame?

My wife just bought a 2019 Honda Pilot Elite and the dealer sent us home in a demo loaner CRV - MSRP 32K and the A/C will freeze you out of there within seconds of starting up. So my point is regardless of price RAM has a problem and needs to step up the resolution because these specs are written to give them an excuse to not have a superior product. If they exceed specs like Honda, and others then no one would ever complain.
 
Well, I am getting 40 degrees (F) or lower out of my vents, so I'm happy, and I believe this is working...
I can still get warm (not totally hot) air out of the vents when turned to heat, so there is some coolant flow to the core (want to maintain some flow)
It was 95 degrees outside today when I did this test...

So I'm totally happy with this. In a couple of weeks I might remove the clamp to see if it has really flattened the hose
It seems to work, and was about $2.vent.jpg
 
I am not taking issue with you but just these comments in general. I see them all the time on different forums, if you bought a brand new tradesman with rubber floors that came off the same assembly line AND had the same issue with junk A/C is it still a shame?

My wife just bought a 2019 Honda Pilot Elite and the dealer sent us home in a demo loaner CRV - MSRP 32K and the A/C will freeze you out of there within seconds of starting up. So my point is regardless of price RAM has a problem and needs to step up the resolution because these specs are written to give them an excuse to not have a superior product. If they exceed specs like Honda, and others then no one would ever complain.

Sticker - Yes. It’s still a shame if the Tradesman Rams are having the same AC issues. It’s a shame regardless of the price point because there shouldn’t be a difference between the ACs in the various models.
 
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For the folks that are doing these mods, is your testing at LO with A/C and recirculate on? I am an Auto kind of guy and I think my biggest complaint is just how long it takes to get cool compared to others so I don't if it's blend door issues or something else.
 
Anyone thought about installing a lower temp thermostat to reduce the coolant temp rather than reducing coolant flow to the heater core?

I think the stock thermostat is ~203*. I’ve seen 190 and 180 thermostats available.

Just a thought.
 
That would NOT be a good idea. This has been discussed in several forms over the year or so. that would throw off alot of programming, and probably even affect the grille shutter operation.

as far as a/c operation, 20 degrees less in the heater core. isn't gonna make any difference as far as the a/c temp.


Anyone thought about installing a lower temp thermostat to reduce the coolant temp rather than reducing coolant flow to the heater core?

I think the stock thermostat is ~203*. I’ve seen 190 and 180 thermostats available.

Just a thought.
 
Mine is HIGH, MAX (recirculate). However, I dont put my a/c on recirc until the cabin has cooled down a bit, otherwise, you're just recirculating hot air until the cabin cools down.

I did have 50 degree vent temps from the outside today at 90.

Went to 40 MAX RECIRC.

For the folks that are doing these mods, is your testing at LO with A/C and recirculate on? I am an Auto kind of guy and I think my biggest complaint is just how long it takes to get cool compared to others so I don't if it's blend door issues or something else.
 
Mine is HIGH, MAX (recirculate). However, I dont put my a/c on recirc until the cabin has cooled down a bit, otherwise, you're just recirculating hot air until the cabin cools down.

I did have 50 degree vent temps from the outside today at 90.

Went to 40 MAX RECIRC.

True although outside air is pretty hot too. I tend to get in a roll down front windows and start moving letting air escape then roll them up.
 
I am not taking issue with you but just these comments in general. I see them all the time on different forums, if you bought a brand new tradesman with rubber floors that came off the same assembly line AND had the same issue with junk A/C is it still a shame?

My wife just bought a 2019 Honda Pilot Elite and the dealer sent us home in a demo loaner CRV - MSRP 32K and the A/C will freeze you out of there within seconds of starting up. So my point is regardless of price RAM has a problem and needs to step up the resolution because these specs are written to give them an excuse to not have a superior product. If they exceed specs like Honda, and others then no one would ever complain.
Ram isnt going to do **** about this. Why would they? They didnt do **** with all the failed air ride suspension systems because no one died yet. A/C not working to its potentional isnt going to cause deaths, so they wont so ****. Really starting to regret buying another Ram. It will definitely be my last
 
Just get you a clamp or shut off valve like the rest of is. fixed!

Ram isnt going to do **** about this. Why would they? They didnt do **** with all the failed air ride suspension systems because no one died yet. A/C not working to its potentional isnt going to cause deaths, so they wont so ****. Really starting to regret buying another Ram. It will definitely be my last
 
Ram isnt going to do **** about this. Why would they? They didnt do **** with all the failed air ride suspension systems because no one died yet. A/C not working to its potentional isnt going to cause deaths, so they wont so ****. Really starting to regret buying another Ram. It will definitely be my last

It very well may be a design issue that can't be resolved. I know folks here think it's a blend door not shutting all the way but it could very well be more than that. I had a 2013 f-150 that had horrible A/C, and the service manager told me at the time he got a few complaints on it and a new one was the same way. I eventually got a 2016 F-150 and it was night and day better. The last truck which was a 2018 F-150 had great A/C also. If you look at the troubleshooting guides the specs leave so much room for "acceptance". I am hoping things get better because I am almost 1 year in and really like the truck coming from only driving Ford trucks my entire life. I even bought the Mopar Lifetime Warranty prior to them discontinuing it.
 
***Read this***** Apparently FCA removed a 3-way coolant valve from the redesigned 5th gen Ram! I was searching out coolant valves and stumbled on to this part that fits 2013-2018 IMG_3077.jpg 5.7 hemi Rams, but won't fit 2019 models. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm!
 
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I also have gone to 2 dealerships whom ran tests that came back "normal". I'm a car guy, and I know a thing or two, I can say without a single doubt my 2016 1500 HVAC was PERFECT, actually a highlight of that truck, this new loaded to the hilt 2019 1500 I waited 4 months special order to get has an HVAC system Achilles heel, BIG TIME. I opened a case with FCA, but with the dealerships saying everything is normal, not much they can do.. I hope we get enough voices to FCA and they get the engineering team on this to get it corrected once and for all..
 
I also have gone to 2 dealerships whom ran tests that came back "normal". I'm a car guy, and I know a thing or two, I can say without a single doubt my 2016 1500 HVAC was PERFECT, actually a highlight of that truck, this new loaded to the hilt 2019 1500 I waited 4 months special order to get has an HVAC system Achilles heel, BIG TIME. I opened a case with FCA, but with the dealerships saying everything is normal, not much they can do.. I hope we get enough voices to FCA and they get the engineering team on this to get it corrected once and for all..
At this point, I think we have "poked the bear" and got "their" attention pretty good! I too have a loaded to the hilt custom ordered $62k flame red/black Rebel that I custom ordered April 4, 2018 and finally got it in August 2018. (Custom built for...on top of window sticker) I love my truck and we know now that for a few bucks we can get ice cold AC through the summer with a temporary work around and eventually FCA Ram engineers will come up with an "official" fix for the issue. They have a multi award winning vehicle that they won't like bad press about so I am sure they will react to resolve. You would think they would send all owners an official letter acknowledging that there is an issue with AC vent temps and that they are working on a resolution. Just my thoughts! Other than "squeaky" console when resting arm on it, my truck has been really trouble free and has not been to a dealer for anything, including the 2 recalls. We don't adjust pedals so no hurry. RamCares, are you reading all these threads???
 
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Not only is the AC not cold as it should be the temperature modulation is beyond terrible, I find myself constantly pushing the temp buttons up and down to try and keep the cabin somewhat comfortable. The funny thing is that heating is just as bad, you can't get enough heat, nor any real temp modulation... Like I said, my 2016 was PERFECT in heat and A/C, something seriously went wrong with the 2019 design... To back this up, I had a loaner truck with the old system, and running back to back with my truck, the old system was flawless vs mine...
 
There are at least 5 AC threads running. Here is a list.....
1) Air conditioning Hack
2) RAM AC poor performance TWITTER/FACEBOOK
3) A/C Performance
4) Air conditioning performance
5) Update on A/C issues

Not sure if threads can be combined.
 
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