A/C Performance

[KcRay]

End 1 Size:	1/2" Hose
End 2 Size:	1/2" Hose
End 3 Size:	Shut-Off Valve

What size hose did you purchase?

5/8 hose and the valve is the same

 

[sticker500]

5/8 hose and the valve is the same

I appreciate you posting this. I bought the same valve from Advance but the spring clip on the factory hose doesn’t secure the outlet hose going to the firewall at all. I ended up putting the spring clamp on the water pump outlet side and used the screw clamps on the both sides of the valve body. Not sure what I did differently. It’s 5/8 heater hose they sold me.

 

[User_3336]

I think I am going to go the less evasive method. (Service would obviously see that modification and probaby deny a claim on anything cooling related) We have a Harbor Freight here. I think I will get the clamp set.
Again, my only concern about this is potential hose damage leaving it clamped(pinched) for any period of time.
I have a cresent wrench with a sock underneath for testing now.

 

[jloops]

I appreciate you posting this. I bought the same valve from Advance but the spring clip on the factory hose doesn’t secure the outlet hose going to the firewall at all. I ended up putting the spring clamp on the water pump outlet side and used the screw clamps on the both sides of the valve body. Not sure what I did differently. It’s 5/8 heater hose they sold me.

I wanted to make sure I had the correct parts and this is what Ray posted on a different thread. He was nice enough to post his receipt so you could see exactly what he bought. The correct part # for the valve is 84706 - which is the 5/8" size. Hopefully this helps??

 

[sticker500]

I wanted to make sure I had the correct parts and this is what Ray posted on a different thread. He was nice enough to post his receipt so you could see exactly what he bought. The correct part # for the valve is 84706 - which is the 5/8" size. Hopefully this helps??

View attachment 26383

Yes this makes sense since he and/or someone else posted a picture of the wrong part that I ended up purchasing. I think it's making a difference but I don't like it being on there.

 

[User_3336]

Here is what I finally did. . . . I didn't want to perm. install a shut off valve in case I had to take the truck in for warranty service (I mean, how do you "undo" that easily?)

I did grab some of those clamps at Harbor Freight, but I didn't really like the way it pinched the hose on one side (being as these clamps are not meant to be used permanently.

I wanted some to clamp, but evenly on both sides where it would not seem to damage the hose over time.

So I brainstormed, and here is what I came up with. Some flat zinc plates you find in the hardware section. (they're actually called mending plates).

My thinking is what it would "pinch" the hose, but evenly on both sides but still restricting coolant into the heater core.

So, I cut a sock (black in the pic), wrapped it around the part of the hose where I was going to "clamp", and put some tape around it.

Next, I put a bolt and screw on one end of the plate (barely tightened), and put it over the hose, got it tight, then put a bolt and screw over the other end, and tightened them up. Seemed perfect, tight, and less evasive then the H.F. clamps.

It was still 85 degrees out when I tested this afternoon, but WOW! my a/c temps were COLD!!!! I didn't have my vent thermometer, but my arm was getting cold. When I have time, I will post vent temps. Strangely, the right vent off the center stack was colder that the others.

My coolant temps on the gauge didn't seem affected.

Just wanted to clarify IF is no "pressure" to be maintained from the water pump into the heater core and back (being as its not restricted due to the clamps).

NOTE! I did still have heat but more coming out of the right center stack.....only warm out of the others)...

Anyways, I am happy with this mod. Its quickly reversible if need to take in for service. And I'm sure enjoying this cooler air!!!!!

Amazing what you can think of, and its even cheaper than the HF clamps. Total cost $2.

 

[James Cole]

I too wonder this... what happens with the "Engine In" hose that comes from the heater core when you block out the "Engine Out" one.

 

[User_3336]

Well, I still allowed some coolant to pass thru the hose (I still have heat out of the vents when turned all the way up)

Yours is a good question though,

I too wonder this... what happens with the "Engine In" hose that comes from the heater core when you block out the "Engine Out" one.

 

[James Cole]

Well, I still allowed some coolant to pass thru the hose (I still have heat out of the vents when turned all the way up)

Yours is a good question though,

So you only slowed the coolant flow to the heater core and you are OK with your output temps? Would you consider them similar to other good working ac?

 

[User_3336]

No, the temps out of the vent are much lower. I do not believe I shut the flow off completely, since I do still have warm air out of the vents when I turn the dial over to heat.
I will have to test the vent temps.

I can tell you, its a lot better than it was.

So you only slowed the coolant flow to the heater core and you are OK with your output temps? Would you consider them similar to other good working ac?

 

[Jhill]

Well, I still allowed some coolant to pass thru the hose (I still have heat out of the vents when turned all the way up)

Yours is a good question though,

According to KcRay, he says there is another hose that provides coolant flow to engine in parallel. If you are concerned, you could add a crossover hose (with two "T's") with valve in it as well as a valve in "out" hose after crossover so it still allows flow from "out" hose to "in" hose but achieves shutting down flow (or partial flow) to heater core.

 

[User_3336]

My intent was to make no modifications or add any valves. only to "clamp/pinch" the hose.
I'm happy with the mod for now, I can always change or modify it later, since its a plate with screws flattening the hose.

According to KcRay, he says there is another hose that provides coolant flow to engine in parallel. If you are concerned, you could add a crossover hose (with two "T's") with valve in it as well as a valve in "out" hose after crossover so it still allows flow from "out" hose to "in" hose but achieves shutting down flow (or partial flow) to heater core.

 

[KcRay]

I too wonder this... what happens with the "Engine In" hose that comes from the heater core when you block out the "Engine Out" one.

Traditionally the water pumps first job is to move water through the engine that just came from the radiator, and then back again. It is going to do this no matter what is happening with the heater core. A long time ago someone decided to tap into the water pump to get some hot water to a miniature radiator in your dash, so you could blow air through it and get heat in the cabin. It really is that simple. Remember the older cars had a cable going to the heater control valve inline of the heater hose we are tapping into, or pinching off. Plato would be proud of all of you, and your inventions!

 

[James Cole]

Hi KcRay, but isnt the engine in hose creating a vacuum or some kind of problem when sealing off the engine out hose?

 

[James Cole]

Also when disconnecting hoses some coolant will be lost, should the coolant system be primed after that and how to do it?

 

[User_3336]

I think you are like me, and overthinking this. But I did ask this originally, if there was some pressure that needed to be maintained, etc.

But as Ray said.... "Traditionally the water pumps first job is to move water through the engine that just came from the radiator, and then back again. It is going to do this no matter what is happening with the heater core."

In my setup, I still have hot coolant flowing thru the hose, just probably at a reduced rate (as I still have heat). I didn't want to totally shut the flow off.

But I am not a mechanic, and I dont know if this is creating an issue none of us know about.

My "hack" is totally reversible.

Hi KcRay, but isnt the engine in hose creating a vacuum or some kind of problem when sealing off the engine out hose?

 

[KcRay]

Also when disconnecting hoses some coolant will be lost, should the coolant system be primed after that and how to do it?

I had the long hose clamped off, and the valve and short added hose assembled. When I pulled off hose at the pump, I did it quickly. I bet I could spit more than I lost.

 

[KcRay]

I think you are like me, and overthinking this. But I did ask this originally, if there was some pressure that needed to be maintained, etc.

But as Ray said.... "Traditionally the water pumps first job is to move water through the engine that just came from the radiator, and then back again. It is going to do this no matter what is happening with the heater core."

In my setup, I still have hot coolant flowing thru the hose, just probably at a reduced rate (as I still have heat). I didn't want to totally shut the flow off.

But I am not a mechanic, and I dont know if this is creating an issue none of us know about.

My "hack" is totally reversible.

Don't know, maybe but does it matter at all? You have your large upper and lower radiator hoses getting water pumped through. You have bypass hose taking pressure away for when the thermostat is closed.

 

[User_3336]

Yeah, i'm not gonna worry about it.

Don't know, maybe but does it matter at all? You have your large upper and lower radiator hoses getting water pumped through. You have bypass hose taking pressure away for when the thermostat is closed.

 

[KcRay]

Yeah, i'm not gonna worry about it.

If there was a significant vacuum going on we would see the out hose collapsing.