5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[WRH]

My system is working pretty good now. I need to do some sound deadening in the back and doors, but other than that I am pretty happy with it. I still have some tuning to do with the 3.5s in the dash, but the Hybrid Unity 3.5s dropped right in no problem. Still haven't decided on final placement for the tweeters, currently have them zip tied to the dash grill... which surprisingly looks and sounds pretty good... I may not even move them to the A Frame. We'll see...

Still no sub solution yet. I have a Pioneer 10" box sitting on the floor in the back until I figure something out.

 

[Sicembears]

I have a Bighorn with the 8.4 uconnect and 6 speaker system. I had a local audio shop install a sub and amp I took out of my Silverado. However, I get a ton of interference from the engine/exhaust. When the vehicle is in park everything is fine but when I drive. The sub picks up the engine revs. I believe they used a LOC and tapped into the rear driver side door speaker. Anyone else experience this?

 

[WRH]

Did they bypass or disable the active noise cancellation? The ANC amp is under the drivers seat. I removed it completely in my install and no problems.

 

[troutspinner]

I have a Bighorn with the 8.4 uconnect and 6 speaker system. I had a local audio shop install a sub and amp I took out of my Silverado. However, I get a ton of interference from the engine/exhaust. When the vehicle is in park everything is fine but when I drive. The sub picks up the engine revs. I believe they used a LOC and tapped into the rear driver side door speaker. Anyone else experience this?

That’s sounds like a low quality LOC, low quality RCA’s or just a bad install to me.

 

[Sicembears]

Did they bypass or disable the active noise cancellation? The ANC amp is under the drivers seat. I removed it completely in my install and no problems.

I don’t think they did anything with the ANC. I’m about a 3 or 4/10 on car audio...is it possible to just unplug the ANC?

 

[Sicembears]

That’s sounds like a low quality LOC, low quality RCA’s or just a bad install to me.

How would you go about troubleshooting this?

 

[troutspinner]

How would you go about troubleshooting this?

Switching RCA’s is easy and quick but high pitches whines aren’t usually that noticeable in a Sub’s frequency range but still worth trying IMO.

What is the quality of the LOC’s they used? We’re they the $15 off the shelf type you can buy from Best Buy? If so, probably the culprit. If they are quality LOC’s, trace the wiring and see if anything is pinched.

 

[WRH]

I don’t think they did anything with the ANC. I’m about a 3 or 4/10 on car audio...is it possible to just unplug the ANC?

You have high level (speaker level) inputs going in and out of the ANC. You can tap either side, but ideally I think it's best to remove the ANC and tap the speakers there. It would be nice if we could keep the ANC active, but when you add new speakers it throws off the calibration--especially with a sub. It's possible in some cases it can still work, but the better quality your speakers/bigger amp you add will make the problem the more pronounced as I understand it. I've heard of others who did not bypass an ANC in variou vehicles cutting the microphone lines at that amp, cutting the lines at the microphones, or even placing black tape over the microphones around the roof--but I can't speak to how well each method works. For the 6 speaker build, I think the best solution is to remove the ANC. If anyone finds it still works well with a high end system let me know as I'd love to add it back in!

 

[Chermanns79]

You have high level (speaker level) inputs going in and out of the ANC. You can tap either side, but ideally I think it's best to remove the ANC and tap the speakers there. It would be nice if we could keep the ANC active, but when you add new speakers it throws off the calibration--especially with a sub. It's possible in some cases it can still work, but the better quality your speakers/bigger amp you add will make the problem the more pronounced as I understand it. I've heard of others who did not bypass an ANC in variou vehicles cutting the microphone lines at that amp, cutting the lines at the microphones, or even placing black tape over the microphones around the roof--but I can't speak to how well each method works. For the 6 speaker build, I think the best solution is to remove the ANC. If anyone finds it still works well with a high end system let me know as I'd love to add it back in!

So do you mean removing the ANC and installing an amp there?

 

[Chermanns79]

Hey guys, I’m new here and I have the 8.4 I connect with 6 speakers and the sound quality is absolute garbage. Looking to do a stereo upgrade aftermarket. I was looking to do it myself, but after reading this thread it may be a hassle. I was wondering if I removed the ANC would that improve the sound quality of the stock stereo for now? I’ve done plenty of installs in the past but with this new ANC tech. I’m lost. Help!

 

[WRH]

So do you mean removing the ANC and installing an amp there?

Yes. But you are dealing with Speaker not line level signals with the 6 speaker system.

Chermanns79: The hard part for me was a defective DSR1 and the signals were not what I had been told. Now that I know what's up, it's not so bad. I'm still trying to balance the sound but I think that is more related to the angle/position on the dash and position of the tweeters I installed. I installed 2 amps behind the passenger back seat (where the sub is on the higher systems) and installed the DSR1 under the drivers seat. I replaced all speakers with Hybrid Audios and installed all new speaker wire. Fitting a sub in my quad cab is still somewhere down the road. I have a temp solution in place now (Pioneer 10' slim mount downward facing box on the floor in front of the back seats). It sounds TONS better now! I need some sound deadening and tuning to get that final bit of perfection...

Removing the ANC alone will do nothing for you. The ANC is nice. I wish there was a way I could still have that in place. I do hear the engine a bit more now (hence the need for some deadening). It's not horrifically loud though.

 

[YoAdrian]

...if the radio itself is the same for each build... maybe I can move the connectors a bit so the system sends data for the 9 or 19 speaker systems. Then the DSR1 option would work... Are the actual radios completely different for each system? Seems like they would make it easy and use the same radio.

Different direction than you went @WRH , but along the lines quoted above does anyone think it is possible that the 6 speaker w/ANC systems (std w Hemi) might just need to swap out the “Module-ANC” for the 9 or 19 speaker “Amplifier-radio” unit, then get a software reconfig to use the 9/19 speaker outputs? Then just add new speakers and BADABING?

Any Ram techs out there know how we might find out if the 6 speaker stereo system with ANC (incl w hemi, see note below on non-ANC) uses the same “radio” module as the 9 or 19 speaker systems, making it potentially compatible with the 9 or 19 speaker “Amplifier-radio” modules?

@I Love Grits ’s diagrams here and here indicate the radio units connect the same at least, but the three amp modules all are likely different:
- all systems with ANC (6ANC/9/19) connect 8 lines from radio to XY331A
- 6ANC connects XY331A to “Module-ANC” then to 6 speakers
- 9 and 19 connect XY331A to “Amplifier-radio” then to 9/19 speakers
- all appear to connect XY440A to the 4 ANC microphones

Need to have actual “Radio” and “Amplifier-radio” part numbers for 6ANC, 9, and 19 systems to confirm the differences and order them though.

The “base 6 speaker stand alone” system without ANC (6nonANC) appears to connect the radio directly to the speakers, without the XY331A connection... a different radio?

 

[YoAdrian]

Need to have actual “Radio” and “Amplifier-radio” part numbers for 6ANC, 9, and 19 systems to confirm the differences and order them though.

The parts guy at the desk couldn’t help me with those part numbers.

Looked under the seats though...
6 speaker ANC - “Module-ANC” says Mopar 68312240AE
9 speaker - “Amplifier-radio” says Mopar 68269374AD

 

[WRH]

You'd have to do some sort of update to the radio, if it's even possible. The 6 speaker system sends speaker level signals (amplified). The other ones send pre-amped signals. There is also a lot of activity on the canbus on the upgraded systems that the 6 speaker does not have. If you couldn't enable that, you'd be screwed by just replacing the amp. I wish I could find a way to switch my radio into thinking it had the 9 or 19 system... the DSR1 would work tons better for me.

 

[YoAdrian]

You'd have to do some sort of update to the radio, if it's even possible. The 6 speaker system sends speaker level signals (amplified). The other ones send pre-amped signals. There is also a lot of activity on the canbus on the upgraded systems that the 6 speaker does not have. If you couldn't enable that, you'd be screwed by just replacing the amp. I wish I could find a way to switch my radio into thinking it had the 9 or 19 system... the DSR1 would work tons better for me.

Thanks. Is the “radio” just another little module or is it the entire uconnect screen? I have 8.4” w NAV if that makes a difference. I’d wager two new modules (radio and amp) and a flash and we’d be outputting the 9 speaker action... still a gamble and we don’t know all the part #s though.

 

[WRH]

That's exactly what I have. 8.4 w/nav. It's not the same as the others whe. U have a 6 speaker system. I thought it would be... And wish it had been.

 

[Hackmunch]

I can't believe the factory did not deaden the back wall. No wonder why it rattles to hell with the factory sub gezzz. I am a huge audiophile and I really think the alpine setup sounds good. Anyone pull the sub yet and see what size it actually is?

 

[YoAdrian]

Think there’s a diagram that shows how the signal flows from the UConnect touch screen to the “radio”, or are these the same module? Are the UConnects vs “radios” all the same part number between “Base” 6 speaker w ANC and “Premium I” 9 speaker?

I see what you’re saying though @WRH... Ram would have to sanction a 9 speaker upgrade for it to be loaded onto the VIN for updates anyways.

Hmmm maybe just speaker swaps for now then! Think it’ll make a noticeable difference given the signal limitations, based on your listening tests? I know sound is subjective, just wanting to hear your impressions. Thanks for all your hard work and the sharing of info.

 

[WRH]

My upgrade made a massive difference. No comparison. But that's with an amp and DSP in the mix. I wondered the same thing about swapping speakers (cheaper, easier). I think there is potential there, but without actually doing it, it’s hard to say. I knew a speaker swap would give me what I wanted. Course, even an amp isn't that complicated if you don't replace the speaker wire like I did--and there are many who argue against rewiring anyways even with a fairly heavy system.

I think we'll be seeing a lot of owners just replacing speakers. Shouldn't be too long and there will be various reports on the success/failures of it. It's a low risk move. Easy to do, and has the potential to make a solid difference. Just make sure to match up the speakers with the watt output of the deck... and I don't know what that is. Maybe 15 per channel if we are lucky...?

 

[YoAdrian]

My upgrade made a massive difference. No comparison. But that's with an amp and DSP in the mix. I wondered the same thing about swapping speakers (cheaper, easier). I think there is potential there, but without actually doing it, it’s hard to say. I knew a speaker swap would give me what I wanted. Course, even an amp isn't that complicated if you don't replace the speaker wire like I did--and there are many who argue against rewiring anyways even with a fairly heavy system.

I think we'll be seeing a lot of owners just replacing speakers. Shouldn't be too long and there will be various reports on the success/failures of it. It's a low risk move. Easy to do, and has the potential to make a solid difference. Just make sure to match up the speakers with the watt output of the deck... and I don't know what that is. Maybe 15 per channel if we are lucky...?

Thanks, you did well blazing the path for the next quality sound upgrade but I think I'll start easy. (You would think getting flat pre-outs would be easy! ) Dumb question I need 4 x 6x9" and 2 x 3.5" right? You recommend shallow or is there average depth? Any reason to do 6.5s over 6x9s besides it's what you already had?