5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[sswails1]

I measured the HK dash 3.5’s today they measured between 3.7 and 4ohm. Not 2 ohm. I also did confirm the two outside 3.5’s are wired out of phase. The center was in phase.

I noticed after wiring the JBLs in phase for the dash the vocals become closer to center as they should be.

 

[YoAdrian]

@EStein @ksn240 yes, my numbers were for the correct harnesses... I remember seeing other ones cited in various places but they proved to be incorrect... the ones I ordered were a perfect fit.

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

I hope I’m not beating this to death! Just trying to get my Christmas list right! So due to conflicting information from this forum and Crutchfield, I decided to dig into my truck today and find out exactly what I have before I order speakers. Crutchfield was positive that I had 5 1/4 inch speakers in my front doors and 6 x 9‘s in the rear. Well...... it’s 6x9 all the way around. Funny I usually have a lot of confidence in those tech guys but I got three different answers from three different people in the last day and a half. I think they just don’t have the information on the 2019 yet. The one surprise/confirmation that I did have was the 8 ohm 3 1/2 speaker in the dash. The one tech guy that knew about the dash speaker said it was 2 ohms. The last lady at Crutchfield I talked to said they didn’t even show a dash speaker. Then she said she wouldn’t recommend replacing an 8ohm with a 4 ohm speaker. Hmm.

Here are some pics...

Basic 6 speaker system. 8.4” Level 2

Dash
View attachment 10583View attachment 10585View attachment 10587

Front Door

View attachment 10588View attachment 10589View attachment 10590View attachment 10591

Rear door

View attachment 10592View attachment 10594

I think I’ll probably go with the JBL GX963 6x9s and the JBL Club 3020 3.5 for the dash. Does anyone see a problem going from an 8ohm dash speaker to a 3ohm?

Thanks

The dash speakers on the 6 speaker system are 8 ohm and the front and rear doors are 2 ohm, They dash and front doors are wired in parallel and roughly produce an impedance of 1.6 ohms.

 

[ksn240]

@EStein @ksn240 yes, my numbers were for the correct harnesses... I remember seeing other ones cited in various places but they proved to be incorrect... the ones I ordered were a perfect fit.

I'll have to check my adapters when I get home. Still have a set I haven't installed. I do think it was different to the ones you referenced and I had no problems with them. Positive/negative wires reversed on them maybe? Only thing I can think of if they both fit.

 

[EStein]

The dash speakers on the 6 speaker system are 8 ohm and the front and rear doors are 2 ohm, They dash and front doors are wired in parallel and roughly produce an impedance of 1.6 ohms.

Thank you!! That 8ohm speaker was bugging me!

 

[Jkstop]

I am in agreement with @Billet1500 4x4 regarding the post-speaker swap ANC problems being caused by polarity problems... and I also believe the vehicle wiring has something to do with it as I had ANC problems before swapping anything.

Recap: I swapped all six base system speakers using Metra harnesses, connecting the positive white lead to what was supposed to be the positive truck wires, and have found polarity mismatches around the cab.

Using a program called “Speaker Pop” on my iPhone (buggy but it works) I confirmed I have two speakers in-phase (right doors) and four out of phase (entire left side, plus the right dash). I will report my findings after confirming all six speakers are in phase and the ANC is reconnected.

FYI regarding releasing pins from connectors, although I used a sewing straight pin, you can buy little tools that release those pins safely without damage. The tools vary in size, not sure which one is correct for the amp connector under the seat but it would be small, around 1mm-ish.

I can second this after my install today. Only ones out of phase on my Big Horn 6 speaker system were the front and rear passenger doors.

After listening to many on here, i reversed all the metra harnesses from the start. Installed everything, and like an idiot, didn’t check with Sound Polarity before sealing all the doors back up. Now my front and rear passenger doors are out of phase when they were fine from the factory. So tomorrow i’ll be putting those two Metra harnesses back the way they originally came.

Hopefully this fixes the ANC drone that’s been coming throught the speakers since the install today. If this ends up working out well, going to be adding a subwoofer next month and creatinf a whole new headache for myself. Probably staying with JBL (WS1000 or WS1200) just to keep my OCD happy woth the same brand as the doors/dash. Although I like the JL W3. We shall see.

Also, I can confirm the JBL’s all slid right in with no problem.

Installed:
JBL GX302 in dash
-Used Metra Adapter #72-7902


JBL GX962 in all four doors
-Used Metra Adapter #71-050

 

[Leadbedr]

I can second this after my install today. Only foors out of phase on my Big Horn 6 speaker system were the front and rear passenger doors.

After listening to many on here, i reversed all the metra harnesses from the start. Installed everything, and like an idiot, didn’t check with Sound Polarity before sealing all the doors back up. Now my front and rear passenger doors are out of phase when they were fine from the factory. So tomorrow i’ll be putting those two Metra harnesses back the way they originally came.

Hopefully this fixes the ANC drone that’s been coming throught the speakers since the install today. If this ends up working out well, going to be adding a subwoofer next month and creatinf a whole new headache for myself. Probably staying with JBL (WS1000 or WS1200) just to keep my OCD happy woth the same brand as the doors/dash. Although I like the JL W3. We shall see.

Also, I can confirm the JBL’s all slid right in with no problem.

Installed:
JBL GX302 in dash
-Used Metra Adapter #72-7902


JBL GX962 in all four doors
-Used Metra Adapter #71-050

Sticking with jbl, I want to get this amp

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL4505/JBL-Club-4505.html

 

[Jkstop]

Sticking with jbl, I want to get this amp

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL4505/JBL-Club-4505.html

Nice. I haven’t done too much amp/sub/enclosure research yet since I wanted to get the doors done and ANC nonsense figured out first. I know the guys on here are using all kinds of signal converters for subs so I’m waiting to see which works best. Probably pull the trigger once someone makes a box they can ship me. I’m not paying $300+ for a custom enclosure for under the rear seat, I can definitely wait for them to start being made.

 

[Jkstop]

Update:

I switched the rear passenger wiring back to factory for the metra’s, it’s now in phase. Went to do the same with the front passenger door and it bounces between in phase and out of phase when testing with the app. No matter which way the front passenger door is, the ANC act’s up. Anyone have any ideas before ANC goes bye bye later on today?

 

[ksn240]

Update:

I switched the rear passenger wiring back to factory for the metra’s, it’s now in phase. Went to do the same with the front passenger door and it bounces between in phase and out of phase when testing with the app. No matter which way the front passenger door is, the ANC act’s up. Anyone have any ideas before ANC goes bye bye later on today?

The results seem to be all over the place. I have the Alpine, and it seems like my front left dash, front driver side door, and rear passenger door are out of phase, and it is still a factory speaker in the front door. This was also with testing with two different apps.

 

[Jkstop]

The results seem to be all over the place. I have the Alpine, and it seems like my front left dash, front driver side door, and rear passenger door are out of phase, and it is still a factory speaker in the front door. This was also with testing with two different apps.

Yea it’s looking like I have to unpin the 8 ANC wires under the driver’s seat. If a subwoofer is the end-game plan anyway it will just get in the way later. I’m a perfectionist though, this is really getting under my skin.

 

[ksn240]

Yea it’s looking like I have to unpin the 8 ANC wires under the driver’s seat. If a subwoofer is the end-game plan anyway it will just get in the way later. I’m a perfectionist though, this is really getting under my skin.

Yeah they definitely complicated things with the ANC. I know somebody here was working on an adapter to get the speaker signals from the head unit before it got to the ANC so you could run an amp without it interfering, and also have your ANC.

 

[YoAdrian]

Yea it’s looking like I have to unpin the 8 ANC wires under the driver’s seat. If a subwoofer is the end-game plan anyway it will just get in the way later. I’m a perfectionist though, this is really getting under my skin.

Tip from another member, you only need to unpin FOUR microphone wires to interrupt the circuits and deactivate ANC so save yourself half the trouble. I found taking the two orange and two browns all in a row did the trick, but double check the wiring diagram.

I am “positively” in phase throughout the cab now with the base six speaker system, and the ANC drone is still there, right at 1500-2000 rpm. I am awaiting delivery of the stand-alone ANC module which is on back order... (I wonder why? ) so until then I have the microphones disco’d and am enjoying my truck and radio!

 

[ksn240]

Tip from another member, you only need to unpin FOUR microphone wires to interrupt the circuits and deactivate ANC so save yourself half the trouble. I found taking the two orange and two browns all in a row did the trick, but double check the wiring diagram.

I am “positively” in phase throughout the cab now with the base six speaker system, and the ANC drone is still there, right at 1500-2000 rpm. I am awaiting delivery of the stand-alone ANC module which is on back order... (I wonder why? ) so until then I have the microphones disco’d and am enjoying my truck and radio!

Yeah I'm not too concerned about keeping the ANC if I have issues with it I haven't noticed any yet, but my amp is also bad and I am waiting on a replacement to come in. We will see if anything changes after that. I have no problem hearing my exhaust and my engine roar, and have thought about adding some dynomat down the line anyway.

 

[Jkstop]

Tip from another member, you only need to unpin FOUR microphone wires to interrupt the circuits and deactivate ANC so save yourself half the trouble. I found taking the two orange and two browns all in a row did the trick, but double check the wiring diagram.

I am “positively” in phase throughout the cab now with the base six speaker system, and the ANC drone is still there, right at 1500-2000 rpm. I am awaiting delivery of the stand-alone ANC module which is on back order... (I wonder why? ) so until then I have the microphones disco’d and am enjoying my truck and radio!

It’s actually eight wires (first four on top and first four underneath them starting next to the red wire). I found it on Ramforums and did it about an hour ago. ANC and drone totally gone. Much clearer sound from the speakers too

 

[EStein]

It’s actually eight wires (first four on top and first four underneath them starting next to the red wire). I found it on Ramforums and did it about an hour ago. ANC and drone totally gone. Much clearer sound from the speakers too

So why do we even need the ANC? Is the truck just louder in general without it? I have my speakers on order but I’m already pissed off about the results and I haven’t even installed them yet! Shouldn’t be this frustrating just to replace speakers. I’m also tired of the intermittent drone.

 

[Hackmunch]

the reason why he said 4 wires is you only need to disconncet the 4 + wires going to mics.

 

[Ryas]

I don't at the moment but ill try to get one posted. its still in a temp stage for testing till I put the DSP/Amp in.

Looking forward to seeing the post pics of the setup when you get it all setup.

I just tried to put the Excelon Xr600 6dsp in but no go. Am not having much luck with tapping signal from the ANC unit under driver seat. I’ve set apart the “input” line coming from the “radio to the ANC, then using those to the LOC then to amplifier. From the amp back to the ANC to feed all speaker lines to the “output” lines. But not getting success. Any thoughts?

 

[Redline96]

Looking forward to seeing the post pics of the setup when you get it all setup.

I just tried to put the Excelon Xr600 6dsp in but no go. Am not having much luck with tapping signal from the ANC unit under driver seat. I’ve set apart the “input” line coming from the “radio to the ANC, then using those to the LOC then to amplifier. From the amp back to the ANC to feed all speaker lines to the “output” lines. But not getting success. Any thoughts?

You'll have to completely bypass the ANC module for all the speaker wires input and output sides.

should go, Radio output (white connector) to LOC, Loc to amp, Amp outputs directly to Speaker outs (black connector) throughout the truck.. Black connector is the outputs to speakers. connect directly to those from the amp bypassing the ANC module completely.

Why not use the High level speaker outputs directly to amp and ditch the LOC? Unless amp is low level input only? Also, I've read that radio may turn off or not come on at all without having proper load on the speakers/amp so something else to consider. I haven't got that far yet to see how its going to workout but I think with the Audio control DSP units I don't think i'll have that problem so we'll see I guess. Honestly after bypassing the ANC module it sounds so good I don't really think a DSP is truly needed just putting a good amp inline would be good enough I think.

I'll pull my harness out tomorrow and put up a picture of it, I need to finish wiring it anyways to get the amp installed. I've been busy with other projects lately so its been sitting waiting for the install.

 

[Ryas]

You'll have to completely bypass the ANC module for all the speaker wires input and output sides.

should go, Radio output (white connector) to LOC, Loc to amp, Amp outputs directly to Speaker outs (black connector) throughout the truck.. Black connector is the outputs to speakers. connect directly to those from the amp bypassing the ANC module completely.

Why not use the High level speaker outputs directly to amp and ditch the LOC? Unless amp is low level input only? Also, I've read that radio may turn off or not come on at all without having proper load on the speakers/amp so something else to consider. I haven't got that far yet to see how its going to workout but I think with the Audio control DSP units I don't think i'll have that problem so we'll see I guess. Honestly after bypassing the ANC module it sounds so good I don't really think a DSP is truly needed just putting a good amp inline would be good enough I think.

I'll pull my harness out tomorrow and put up a picture of it, I need to finish wiring it anyways to get the amp installed. I've been busy with other projects lately so its been sitting waiting for the install.

Thanks Redline. That’s helpful and appreciated. What’s interesting is that someone (nice guy) on this thread posted the wiring diagram and to me it looked as the black harness vs. the white harness on the ANC is signal coming from the radio (inputs) - it has also has the 4 ANC MICS within that block. See image attached. The black block is going to out (outputting) to the 4 speakers plus dash in the car. Do I have that wrong?? Totally possible, I’ve been looking at this thing for too long. Lol.