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3" factory rake?

TheWaterman83

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Really, there would be no difference in the install except that you have two higher settings on the front struts to choose from. Using these higher settings would put you at the same height in front as an ORP. If you wanted the same for the rear you could go with 1 inch longer/taller springs or a spacer.

This. It defaults back to just measuring your current rake.

Anything above the stock rake level will leave it nose high and you will need spacers or taller springs in the rear like H2OMAN said.
 

RVTRKN

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Really, there would be no difference in the install except that you have two higher settings on the front struts to choose from. Using these higher settings would put you at the same height in front as an ORP. If you wanted the same for the rear you could go with 1 inch longer/taller springs or a spacer.
I don't want to touch the rear height, so what I'm looking for is a preset shock that will not need adjustment. So any member that has performed this procedure on a non ORP truck will know the exact level on the shock to set it at. Now for another question, can you adjust the shock while installed? I know the spring will need to be compressed, but is it possible while installed? What I'm trying to avoid is removing and reassembling to achieve a smalll rake to the front. I've never liked a leveling kit look that gives the illusion the front is higher than the rear, even though its not, it still looks wrong to me, thats why I'd like a picture of a member that has done it.
 

RVTRKN

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I just measured the difference in the front and rear to the top of the fender wells, and its 2.5" so I'm thinking of 1.5" rise in the front to give it a lift but still raked down to the front.
 

TheWaterman83

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I just measured the difference in the front and rear to the top of the fender wells, and its 2.5" so I'm thinking of 1.5" rise in the front to give it a lift but still raked down to the front.

That's a conservative bet. You won't look nose-high with that setting. As long as you have some rake, even 1/2 - 3/4" of an inch, it shouldn't look nose-high. At least I don't think so with mine. If it's dead level, which is pretty hard to achieve, then it looks nose-high with the sport hood. I've been nothing but happy so far with the looks with mine having a small amount of rake.

I've seen trucks with negative rake and its pretty obvious. The other day I saw a TRX that was nose high after the owner did a lift. That's a big ouch.
 

CalvinC

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That's a conservative bet. You won't look nose-high with that setting. As long as you have some rake, even 1/2 - 3/4" of an inch, it shouldn't look nose-high. At least I don't think so with mine. If it's dead level, which is pretty hard to achieve, then it looks nose-high with the sport hood. I've been nothing but happy so far with the looks with mine having a small amount of rake.

I've seen trucks with negative rake and its pretty obvious. The other day I saw a TRX that was nose high after the owner did a lift. That's a big ouch.

Makes me so sad when I see a raptor or TRX with a puck lift.

Why did you just drop $80k+ for a vehicle with advanced suspension if you just want to drive tall??!!
 

TheWaterman83

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Makes me so sad when I see a raptor or TRX with a puck lift.

Why did you just drop $80k+ for a vehicle with advanced suspension if you just want to drive tall??!!

I wonder why people mess around with those trucks to begin with. The suspension from the factory is top notch. The guys who seem to do it the right way drop some serious coin to properly lift and upgrade.
 

RVTRKN

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Because it looks cool, in their opinion, and never gets used as designed. In other words, look at me!
 

kjaminet22

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Hopefully someone will chime in with a non ORP truck with Bilstien 1500 install info and picks.
I have a non ORP truck and set the 5100's on clip 5 (1.7"), I had a half inch rake but it looked nose high to me under certain conditions so I put in 1" rear blocks. Then finally put on some 285/55/22 Toyo at3s to finish off the look. SmartSelect_20240221_101346_Gallery.jpg SmartSelect_20240221_101328_Gallery.jpg SmartSelect_20240221_100926_Gallery.jpg SmartSelect_20240221_101541_Gallery.jpg
 

RVTRKN

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My brother thought my 1500 was a 2x2, when I pointed out the auto 4x4 setting, and its purpose, he looked at me weird and asked, "is this a 4x4?". My 2020 1500 is the first 1500 I've owned, out of 5 other Dodge Ram trucks I've owned, and I'm not including the 68 2x2 D200 with split rims in the early 80's.
 

CHeYeNNe71

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Makes me so sad when I see a raptor or TRX with a puck lift.

Why did you just drop $80k+ for a vehicle with advanced suspension if you just want to drive tall??!!
I don't understand why anyone would use a spacer lift on a $30K+ vehicle, or at all! I want a proper working suspension!!
 

mplaramie

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H2OMAN

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I don't understand why anyone would use a spacer lift on a $30K+ vehicle, or at all! I want a proper working suspension!!
Agreed in the front. I would still prefer coils in the rear but I don't think it is nearly as critical as it is in the front. I'm not sure if longer coils are possible in the front on a TRX or Raptor.
 

CHeYeNNe71

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Agreed in the front. I would still prefer coils in the rear but I don't think it is nearly as critical as it is in the front. I'm not sure if longer coils are possible in the front on a TRX or Raptor.
Yeah rear isn't as crucial, plus depending for towing I could see a spacer for rear.
 

TheWaterman83

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Agreed in the front. I would still prefer coils in the rear but I don't think it is nearly as critical as it is in the front. I'm not sure if longer coils are possible in the front on a TRX or Raptor.

The reality is that even the front Bilsteins are not the 100% ideal way to level/lift. It's much better than puck lifts for sure.

The problem is that it's pre loading the spring in the front when you raise the perch up. You get a little rougher ride and less spring travel. The ideal way to do it is with new shocks/struts and new, taller, springs.

But, that's also probably excessive for just a 2" level. I don't lose any sleep over it but I acknowledge that the absolute perfect way to get it done is new springs as well.
 

kjaminet22

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Did you have any rubbing with the new tires? Spacers?
No spacer and surprisingly no rub at all at full lock foward or reverse. I was expecting rub based on what people were saying on here and even bought a heat gun anticipating needing it but didn't have to use it.
 

CHeYeNNe71

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The reality is that even the front Bilsteins are not the 100% ideal way to level/lift. It's much better than puck lifts for sure.

The problem is that it's pre loading the spring in the front when you raise the perch up. You get a little rougher ride and less spring travel. The ideal way to do it is with new shocks/struts and new, taller, springs.

But, that's also probably excessive for just a 2" level. I don't lose any sleep over it but I acknowledge that the absolute perfect way to get it done is new springs as well.
But in reality is the minimum load actually making a rougher ride. I think people say that because they go from OEM soft as sh*t struts to 5100's and think that is the issue. The coils will sit at proper height once installed and still have the upper travel allowed.
 

TheWaterman83

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But in reality is the minimum load actually making a rougher ride. I think people say that because they go from OEM soft as sh*t struts to 5100's and think that is the issue. The coils will sit at proper height once installed and still have the upper travel allowed.

I agree. It's a negligible amount of compression. In terms of ride, the 5100's are harder than it was stock, new. However, they are way better than the worn out stock Bilsteins that were on there for the last 66k in miles.
 

Biga

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It depends how you measure, measuring the fender heights the same does not mean a truck will be level. The wheel wells are not exactly the same front to back.
 
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