saylor
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my old lady told me " get roll bars and put KC daylighters on there"
i said " ya the ones with the smiley faces?"
she said "yup"
i love her so much.
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1C6SRFFT3LN410454 2020 crew cab 4x4 hydro blue
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
i said " ya the ones with the smiley faces?"
she said "yup"
i love her so much.
saylor
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so i forgot about this whole website. but someone hit me up in a chat so i came back here to see what this chat msg was...
so now that im here i figured id put a truck update. its just over 3 yrs old now i guess. 85k miles ish.
the first thing that popped into my mind is i have broken 3 of 4 stock rims. all cracked. i dunno if i got a crap set of wheels factory from day 1, or they are all chinesium crap, but between pulling trailers and driving on dirt rock roads they all broke. i slapped some rough country rims under there and have had good luck so far.
the falken tires are great on dirt and rock and offroad. i bought some more. then i found out they have 1 level of tire better - they have some rock tires. ill get those next time. i think the rock tires are 10ply not 8ply. but the stock tires do pretty good. 60s rub on the front fender wells just for a second at just a certain angle but other than that fit right in there. i dont think you could go bigger without a lift or spacers.
i have a header leak. passenger side. farking mopar junk same same as it ever was.
the windshield water sprayers tubing have come loose at every possible place they could come loose at. i had to buy a tab puller tool and a bunch of spare tabs to pull the hood blanket down and get in there and fix the plumbing 2, 3,4, 5 times now. there are some Tee fittings where the tubing stabs into and they have all come loose on both P and D sides. stab em back in and electrical tape them in place. then the tube came loose right at the D side hood hinge area - there are a couple of 90* tube elbows here with ZERO extra play in the line... the tubing routes from the filler jug up front, going under/behind the battery tray and there is a tubing keeper UNDER the freaking tray so u have to loose that thing up and pry it away from the fenderwell to get at the squirter tube and keeper thats holding the tube. once thats all loose you have enough slack to re-stab the tube into the elbow it fell out of and then electrical tape it secure.
windshield gasket air leak - i dont hear it anymore because the crack is full of dirt but its still there.
i guess thats about it for stuff that sucks. the rest of it is holding together pretty good. my nilight light bar is going out and im about to R&R it. it goes thru hell up there up front. but the truck goes when you press the little pedal and stops when you press the big pedal so its all good.
so now that im here i figured id put a truck update. its just over 3 yrs old now i guess. 85k miles ish.
the first thing that popped into my mind is i have broken 3 of 4 stock rims. all cracked. i dunno if i got a crap set of wheels factory from day 1, or they are all chinesium crap, but between pulling trailers and driving on dirt rock roads they all broke. i slapped some rough country rims under there and have had good luck so far.
the falken tires are great on dirt and rock and offroad. i bought some more. then i found out they have 1 level of tire better - they have some rock tires. ill get those next time. i think the rock tires are 10ply not 8ply. but the stock tires do pretty good. 60s rub on the front fender wells just for a second at just a certain angle but other than that fit right in there. i dont think you could go bigger without a lift or spacers.
i have a header leak. passenger side. farking mopar junk same same as it ever was.
the windshield water sprayers tubing have come loose at every possible place they could come loose at. i had to buy a tab puller tool and a bunch of spare tabs to pull the hood blanket down and get in there and fix the plumbing 2, 3,4, 5 times now. there are some Tee fittings where the tubing stabs into and they have all come loose on both P and D sides. stab em back in and electrical tape them in place. then the tube came loose right at the D side hood hinge area - there are a couple of 90* tube elbows here with ZERO extra play in the line... the tubing routes from the filler jug up front, going under/behind the battery tray and there is a tubing keeper UNDER the freaking tray so u have to loose that thing up and pry it away from the fenderwell to get at the squirter tube and keeper thats holding the tube. once thats all loose you have enough slack to re-stab the tube into the elbow it fell out of and then electrical tape it secure.
windshield gasket air leak - i dont hear it anymore because the crack is full of dirt but its still there.
i guess thats about it for stuff that sucks. the rest of it is holding together pretty good. my nilight light bar is going out and im about to R&R it. it goes thru hell up there up front. but the truck goes when you press the little pedal and stops when you press the big pedal so its all good.
z0n3
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Assuming you didnt clean the paint off the studs when you did this?
saylor
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well forum, here i am again. this truck has about 125k miles on it, and its about to turn into a ford f-150 next week i think. stuff is starting to go wrong on it, and i drive 200 miles to get to work, so i got to have something that i can depend on every time without fail.
i just removed this bumper bar, so i was back here referencing how i installed the darn thing. starters going out. did brakes and rear diff and coolant at about 110k. i got those falken rock tires and they are kick ***. i recommend them to anyone. windshield is broken again, but thats not the trucks fault. i live in the mountains so it happens. alot. 2nd or 3rd one. all in all the truck did mostly OK. 125k isnt too bad before stuff starts crapping out, i guess. it gets beat all to hell where i live. got a couple of dents and a couple of racing stripes.
the internet estimate trade in is giving me 16k... we will see what the stealership says.
so for the starter - its the same as it ever was. if you try to start and you have strong voltage and good bright dash lights and your BATT is 12.5vdc or more and you hit the button and hear a loud CLICK and thats it. no start no crank no spinny no nada. you got to bang on the starter. just like an old hot rod. i saw some posts where they said their main power terminal nut was loose on the backside of the starter. its in a PITA spot - lots of videos show you have to drop the front drive line at the u joint to get to it.
anyways - one video this dude had a long metal wrench extension and he reached thru the driver side wheel well above the tire with the extension rod and you can see the back of the starter sticking out from behind its heat shield. he gave it some smacks, hopped in, and it started right up. thats a mopar starter trick from the old day right there.
ok yall have fun. see ya on the flip side -
- saylor
i just removed this bumper bar, so i was back here referencing how i installed the darn thing. starters going out. did brakes and rear diff and coolant at about 110k. i got those falken rock tires and they are kick ***. i recommend them to anyone. windshield is broken again, but thats not the trucks fault. i live in the mountains so it happens. alot. 2nd or 3rd one. all in all the truck did mostly OK. 125k isnt too bad before stuff starts crapping out, i guess. it gets beat all to hell where i live. got a couple of dents and a couple of racing stripes.
the internet estimate trade in is giving me 16k... we will see what the stealership says.
so for the starter - its the same as it ever was. if you try to start and you have strong voltage and good bright dash lights and your BATT is 12.5vdc or more and you hit the button and hear a loud CLICK and thats it. no start no crank no spinny no nada. you got to bang on the starter. just like an old hot rod. i saw some posts where they said their main power terminal nut was loose on the backside of the starter. its in a PITA spot - lots of videos show you have to drop the front drive line at the u joint to get to it.
anyways - one video this dude had a long metal wrench extension and he reached thru the driver side wheel well above the tire with the extension rod and you can see the back of the starter sticking out from behind its heat shield. he gave it some smacks, hopped in, and it started right up. thats a mopar starter trick from the old day right there.
ok yall have fun. see ya on the flip side -
- saylor
