5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

180 degree thermostat

Have to agree here. If you have a 220 that and you are hitting 250, well it is open at 220, so what difference does it make if it opens at 180? It is still circulating 250 coolant.

That said, while my truck is a slow mass produced pickup truck like you guys drive I leave it stock for that reason, my car has a 180 Stat. Why? Because while they had it apart putting in a cam, I replaced all the other parts. And the tuner said I should. So what's another $20? 😆
If your tuner tuned for it, that's a different story.
 
Have to agree here. If you have a 220 that and you are hitting 250, well it is open at 220, so what difference does it make if it opens at 180? It is still circulating 250 coolant.

That's not how it works. Lower tstat = lower coolant at all times (once hitting the 180ish threshold) = cooler engine. My truck now tows at the same oil temps it used to run at unloaded.

When climbing a grade, you also start with a lower temps, giving you more breathing room before hitting >= 250.

If the grade was long enough, I might eventually reach the same temps I saw before, but the point is I don't come across those hills. The next step to combat that would be an aftermarker oil cooler which was on my list but is on hold due to the success of these 2 mods.
 
You're taking this way too personally.
Your opinion would have to matter to take it personally.
Don’t give yourself that much credit.
Edit
Nope, never mind. Not worth it.
 
Last edited:
That's not how it works. Lower tstat = lower coolant at all times (once hitting the 180ish threshold) = cooler engine. My truck now tows at the same oil temps it used to run at unloaded.

When climbing a grade, you also start with a lower temps, giving you more breathing room before hitting >= 250.

If the grade was long enough, I might eventually reach the same temps I saw before, but the point is I don't come across those hills. The next step to combat that would be an aftermarker oil cooler which was on my list but is on hold due to the success of these 2 mods.
Still goes back to, if you can't maintain operating temp at freeway speeds, then there is an issue with the cooling system not working properly and it's not a thermostat issue. Adding a colder thermostat may seems like it helped, but it's just masking the problem, by giving you more time before you get into danger zone for engine temps.
 
I think there’s a distinction to be made between want and need.
The truck needs nothing, it’s running exactly as designed. At the operating temps most modern gas vehicles do, between 195 and 225, depending on what source you ask/look at/read.

Want… that’s all on you. You can want it to run 165 degrees, painted like a speedboat and turn on your windshield washers to simulate water/waves splashing about you… LOL.

Feel free to do whatever you want…your truck, your money.
Just make sure you’re able to separate the two. Sometimes that’s a bit blurry. I think in this case, though, it was a little more clear cut.
Oh by the way I had the device not supported on my screen..seems to be common..I tried everything..fixed it today...I plugged in a phone charger cable into the small port above the big port ..the end that goes in your phone..nothing attached to it..it works now..does that make sense?..It comes back if I unplug it but I will just leave it plugged in..and see over time if fixes itself..but for now it's gone..
 
Oh by the way I had the device not supported on my screen..seems to be common..I tried everything..fixed it today...I plugged in a phone charger cable into the small port above the big port ..the end that goes in your phone..nothing attached to it..it works now..does that make sense?..It comes back if I unplug it but I will just leave it plugged in..and see over time if fixes itself..but for now it's gone..
Change the thermostat. Sorry couldn’t resist. 😆
 
Sorry kayallen… I only use wireless for charging and CarPlay…
I think the only time the USB ports get used in my truck is in the back when someone needs to charge their phone…
With the thousands of cheap Amazon cables out there, sometimes cars/trucks and electronics are finicky.
Charging capacity of a cable is not the same as data throughput capacity of the cable.. something to ponder.
 
A catch can will improve the USB connection, other things to try are 0w-40 and a cold air intake with an oiled filter. As a last resort you can level the truck with spacers but keep the stock uca.

If you're really lucky you have 3.21 gears, which means you should run 35's (more spacers) and do not, repeat do not recalibrate the speedo.
 
A catch can will improve the USB connection, other things to try are 0w-40 and a cold air intake with an oiled filter. As a last resort you can level the truck with spacers but keep the stock uca.

If you're really lucky you have 3.21 gears, which means you should run 35's (more spacers) and do not, repeat do not recalibrate the speedo.
Wow..well I have learned my lesson..I will not do anything to my truck..
 
Sorry kayallen… I only use wireless for charging and CarPlay…
I think the only time the USB ports get used in my truck is in the back when someone needs to charge their phone…
With the thousands of cheap Amazon cables out there, sometimes cars/trucks and electronics are finicky.
Charging capacity of a cable is not the same as data throughput capacity of the cable.. something to ponder.
Thx..I think I'm going to get some premium charging cords..
 
You got the answer to your question about the fans. Some others tried to educate you on engine temps, the tune, and engine performance. Those comments didn't match your opinion, doesn't mean they are wrong. Nobody was disrespectful in any of their comments. I guess if you just want to hear affirmations about changes you make, it might be better to stick with forums that match your opinions.
I use all the opinions of others to make better decisions..I should be allowed to have my own..I appreciate all of them
 
I use all the opinions of others to make better decisions..I should be allowed to have my own..I appreciate all of them
You can have your own opinion, but when people responded with facts to try and help you better understand, you refuted almost everyone, unless they agreed with what you did
 
The reason some of us are using a 180 is because the operating temp of these trucks goes far past 225, which you would know if you worked it.

The only reason these temps are even hitting 225 is for "fuel efficiency". Drop in a 180 and your temps are not likely to exceed 200 unless you're idling excessively or towing. Heat kills, a cool engine always lasts longer than a hotter one all else being equal.


That makes no sense. If you take a 180° tstat and the stock ~202°, both are wide open by 203° and the 180° would offer zero advantage over the stock unit especially at 225°+. The tstat opening isnt larger on the 180°, it just opens sooner, if youre getting up to 225, something else is wrong, altitude, air in the system, collasped hose, blockage but the t-stat isnt the issue
 
That's not how it works. Lower tstat = lower coolant at all times (once hitting the 180ish threshold) = cooler engine. My truck now tows at the same oil temps it used to run at unloaded.

When climbing a grade, you also start with a lower temps, giving you more breathing room before hitting >= 250.

If the grade was long enough, I might eventually reach the same temps I saw before, but the point is I don't come across those hills. The next step to combat that would be an aftermarker oil cooler which was on my list but is on hold due to the success of these 2 mods.

No, thats exactly how it works. Its possible that you inadvertently removed an air pocket when you changed the tstat.
 
I installed a 180° stat in my previous truck, while it ran slightly cooler on the highway, the fuel mileage plumeted and their was zero performance increase. Modern engines are designed to run a hot combustion chamber to completly burn all the fuel maximizing power. Unless youre tuned for a 180° t-stat and by tuned, I mean more than just changing the fan setting, its not doing anything.

If you're lowering the water temp, you're going to lower the cylinder head temp and thusly the chamber temp which is partially why you get the loss in fuel mileage (the other reason is the oil temp as most oil lubricates best, less frisction, around 200°). You'd need a hotter range spark plug to get the chamber temp back up and not hurt performance. A cold cylinder isnt making power despite what anyone thinks
 
The reason some of us are using a 180 is because the operating temp of these trucks goes far past 225, which you would know if you worked it.

The only reason these temps are even hitting 225 is for "fuel efficiency". Drop in a 180 and your temps are not likely to exceed 200 unless you're idling excessively or towing. Heat kills, a cool engine always lasts longer than a hotter one all else

You can have your own opinion, but when people responded with facts to try and help you better understand, you refuted almost everyone, unless they agreed with what you did
I disagree
 
Wow..well I have learned my lesson..I will not do anything to my truck..

No one is suggesting you shouldn't do anything to your truck, but many are suggesting that installing a 180 thermostat will have no benefit whatsoever. The truck is designed to provide a life of service with the thermostat installed at the factory. I've put well over 180,000 miles on a previous Hemi Ram with never a need to run cooler temperatures than what were intended from the factory even when towing a camper over interstate mountain passes during the summer.

Opposing views are essential to helping others make informed decisions. Often these kinds of mods are driven my social media forums that sound like an echo chamber.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top