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Hell, I switched to full synthetic blinker fluid and gained 7 mpg.

That’s exactly what I see on my ‘22 Rebel non e-torque. I couldn’t see 20 mpg going downhill with a 30 mph tailwind.

Do you happen to know the production date of the engine?

McGard are the only aftermarket lug nuts I’ll buy. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/lug-nuts?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Mcgard%2084640

I don’t get into pissing matches with people on a forum. I believe my pics are pretty self explanatory. The throttle body is part of the air intake. The engine would die, it would not idle. To me, that’s having trouble running. I also never said it was on a truck. It was a 5.7 hemi. Not sure...

Where did I say this was the intake manifold? This is the air intake/throttle body. The butterfly in the top pic was so gunked up, the car would not idle. Sure, you can remove it and clean it, but it’s just as easy to run a catch can and not worry about it.

5.7 with 140K. Engine having trouble running due to gunked up intake. 5.7 with 75K. No known running issues, but getting pretty dirty. Would a properly working catch can help this? I believe it would. I installed my catch can at 1K. I’ll check the intake every 30K or so just to see what it...

Nope, 4WD Auto in the TRX is the default just like 2WD is in ours. You can switch to 4WD High or 4WD Low, but not 2WD.

I’m pretty consistent in the 14’s with mixed city/highway driving. I couldn’t get 20.3 downhill with a 40 mph tailwind. 😂

I guess that’s why we can still manually check our coolant level as well.

Many of those items aren’t as critical as the oil level in the engine. I check the oil level every 500 miles or so. My high strung Coyote will use about 1/4 quart every 1,000 miles. My $15K zero turn mower with a Kawasaki engine will use oil, particularly when it’s 100 degrees outside. I suppose...

No way I’ll ever own an ICE without a dipstick.

Makes me glad I decided on the 8/125K Mopar warranty. If she doesn’t blow by 125K, I got a good one.

I love the 5.7 in my Rebel, but my 2013 3.5TT with 177K miles will still out pull the 5.7 all day, any day, up any grade hands down. The down-low torque is almost diesel-like. It’s a helluva lot easier on the tranny too as it’s not always down shifting on any little incline. I wouldn’t bash the...

Ford has put a lot of restrictions on the ability to tune the Eco. V8’s are not going to be around forever. I absolutely wanted one more V8 before they become extinct. Ram was the last V8 I could get without stop/start technology (I went non eTorque for that very reason). Ford had just...

It has really been bulletproof. It has not had an easy life either. I pulled a 33’ 8500 lb TT with it for probably 15K of those miles. Taking it up some 6-7% grades in the Poconos several times, it always put a smile on my face. My previous truck was a 2500HD with 6.0, headers, and exhaust. It...

I still have my ‘13 F150 Ecobeast. It’s just too much fun to get rid of. It’s leveled on 33’s and has been tuned since 1K miles. It’s got aftermarket intake, down pipes and full cat back exhaust. It just turned over 177K. Not a single issue with the drivetrain. It puts down 375/500 to the...

I’ve been trying to find out if 295/65/18 will fit without hitting the UCA. I’m pretty sure 305 will hit the UCA without wheel spacers. 305/65/18 is not even 34”, so I wouldn’t think rubbing would be an issue, just clearing the UCA.

I have the Fuel Trophy’s in anthracite on my Ecobeast. I actually like the stock blacked out 6 spokes on the Rebel.

If you really don’t want the e-Torque, look for a leftover 2022 or used. You may sacrifice on getting exactly what you want, but just make sure you get the 33 gallon tank. I would agree a Limited is probably not your best option if you are looking for max payload.