Refilling a ZF8...
This is not rocket science.
Step 1: Fill until it dribbles from fill port.
2: Loosely install fill plug.
3: Start vehicle. Run through reverse, 1st, 2nd, and then 2,000 rpm. Hold each for 5-10 seconds. (Some vehicles say the wheels should rotate. Shrug.)
4: With engine running (so transmission pump is pressurized), open fill plug and pump in fluid until it overflows from fill port.
In my case, it took an extra quart to fill it after it was running. That explains why all the fluid pours out when you open the fill plug on a stopped vehicle: all the "excess" fluid comes out of the pump/torque converter, etc., and comes out.
Next, a quick test drive.
Awesome! Everything worked great. I'm convinced the pan reduced my temps by at least 2-5F.
After 100-200 miles, I crawled back under...and found a leaking gasket. Yeah, that instinct was telling me what an idiot I'd been. Agreed. Don't listen to PPE CS.
Luckily, I'd found and purchased gaskets in the meantime. The company is KLM Performance. Go to:
Mopar 68172556AA ZF 8 Speed Automatic Transmission Pan Gasket
I bought 5. One to replace the old one (installed and leaking), and one each for each of the 4 filters I had purchased. Since a filter swap will need a pan drop...and therefore a new gasket. (This means I'm good for about 200,000 miles. (35k now, plus 35k x 4, and the last one will be good for 35k before needing a new one...on my (short) interval.)
My pan was leaking from the rear, where that red arrow is, upstream.
I went through the entire drain procedure, dropped the pan, and installed a new gasket.
The extra fluid I'd purchased helped.
View attachment 183906
I also had a pump, from:
Macnaught All Purpose Oil Transfer Pump with Extender - PN# MAOP20
View attachment 183907
Note: the pump does NOT screw onto that jug. The jug is German...and has some crazy euro thread. Sigh. One of the pump adapters allows it to snap into place and it stays stable. It is GREAT having a place to put the hose (metal end piece) so it drains back into the pump.
Okay, new pan, new fill. Great. I've drained and filled twice. That means, 1/2 * 1/2 = 1/4 of the original fluid is left. So, a 75% swap. (More than that, actually, due to the increased volume in the new pan. Maybe 85% new fluid.)
Also, with the drain prior to swapping a new gasket, I had obviously removed the PPE drain plug. It has as green O-ring. The replacement O-rings I'd bought ($6 each) are brown and listed as being Viton.
O-Ring for 1 inch Drain-Fill Plug
I did not replace that O-ring.
Why?
Because I wanted to post this picture:
View attachment 183908
That's my drain plug seeping. I cleaned the green O-ring (wiped down and left wet) and reinstalled to correct torque.
So, what's next? Yep, a drain and fill. YAY! At least the new pan gasket from KLM is tight and dry, so I just have to dump and fill the oil. Now I'm REALLY glad I bought the 5 gallon jug of LiquiMoly.
(I did spray that area with brake clean, ensured it was dry, then drove. Yep, the O-ring does leak.)
With 3 drain and fills (I've got to do the 3rd, just need to find a morning that's free), I'll have ~ 96% new fluid. (Usually a drain and fill is about 1/2. I'm guessing I get about 3/5s with my extra capacity.)
Summary, next...
(Edited because I wrote "drain plug" twice by mistake instead of "fill plug".)