What did you do to your Ram today???

[Dogpatch]

I want SNOW pics! I love the snow so I'm going to get into some lake affect snow very soon

Thats a horrible thing to wish for! LOL
Personally not a fan at all! Having lived with winters all my life up here in , I’d be happy if it snowed evening of Dec 24 and melted morning of Dec 26!

 

[Gren71]

Installed suspension maxx front end sway bar end links and hellwig front sway bar.

It was sark by the time I was done so pics will come tomorrow

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I knew better but I did it anyway

A: Grind slot and use large flat head
B: Try heating the screw
C: Weld old socket or nut on it
B: Don't change rotors and say I did
F : Buy new truck
G: Drill head out then try vice grips
Enlighten me with a new simple way to fix this. I'm leaning towards the welding way only because it never failed me...

 

[MarPar]

View attachment 208655
I knew better but I did it anyway

A: Grind slot and use large flat head
B: Try heating the screw
C: Weld old socket or nut on it
B: Don't change rotors and say I did
F : Buy new truck
G: Drill head out then try vice grips
Enlighten me with a new simple way to fix this. I'm leaning towards the welding way only because it never failed me...

F

 

[Wess366]

I put a Pedal Commander on 26 Tungsten. Far better upgrade that the K&N cold air box. It def takes the lag out of the truck!

 

[TNRamGuy]

View attachment 208655
I knew better but I did it anyway

A: Grind slot and use large flat head
B: Try heating the screw
C: Weld old socket or nut on it
B: Don't change rotors and say I did
F : Buy new truck
G: Drill head out then try vice grips
Enlighten me with a new simple way to fix this. I'm leaning towards the welding way only because it never failed me...

Drill and easy out! Pb blaster or winter green oil first.

 

[boogielander]

View attachment 208655
I knew better but I did it anyway

A: Grind slot and use large flat head
B: Try heating the screw
C: Weld old socket or nut on it
B: Don't change rotors and say I did
F : Buy new truck
G: Drill head out then try vice grips
Enlighten me with a new simple way to fix this. I'm leaning towards the welding way only because it never failed me...

usually we find a torx or allen bit and "drive" it in with a hammer, then press on it as we use a ratchet to loosen it.
if that doesn't work then grind slot and use large flat head, but spray some WD-40 before you turn with flat head.

If your rotor is not warped or damaged then there's not really a need to change rotor.

 

[MotorcycleBoy]

@RAM REAPER MAN, please find these specific bolts:

after the drill you will insert this bolt in reverse

 

[boogielander]

Almost forgot to grab pictures of the starlink Mini mounted:

Mounting is achieved with Trio Flat Mount's Starlink Mini Speed Mount, using their Rubber Coated Magnets.

The mount itself is a two piece unit, held together with 2 button head bolts and nylon lock nuts.

As seen from side profile, there is very little gap between the bottom of the mount and the roof, which reduces aero induced lift at high speed. The cable is routed out of the mount via a notch under the mount.

There is also an optional polycarbonate cover that is supposed to help with "protecting" the dish. However, after examining the piece and looking at how the piece is added, it is determined that the polycarbonate cover will/ can trap more dirt and moisture since there is no seal between the cover and the mount.

One workaround is to add rubber or silicone gasket to achieve a 100% water and dust proof seal, however, that could also lead to overheating issues due to poor ventilation. In addition, there are small holes on the unit itself for ventilation, so it will still not be 100% water and dust proof even with a seal.

One good thing about Trio over competition is its low profile. The mount (and the unit) are really profile, so it not only helps with aerodynamics (and keeping wind noise low), but also makes it harder to spot as it does not stand out at all.

I purchased a separate, longer power cord with USB-C, and wrapped it in some wire sleeve. Then, I left some slack for when I want to remove the unit from the roof for service or cleaning, and routed the cable to the top of GFC and bundled it with my existing solar cables.

Reason why I use wire sleeve: so it blends in with the solar cables.
I went a bit overboard with the cable length, as my original plan was to route it down to the frame then go up the firewall to go into the cab, and go to my Ecoflow Delta 2. But instead, I routed it to the LiFEPO4 in the bed.
I may change the wire to the shorter one, or I may just route it to the EcoFlow's USB-C output.


That's how it will sit for now. Will decide if I want to route it to the front or not in the coming days.

 

[CH3NO2LOVER]

Almost forgot to grab pictures of the starlink Mini mounted:
View attachment 208685
Mounting is achieved with Trio Flat Mount's Starlink Mini Speed Mount, using their Rubber Coated Magnets.
View attachment 208686
The mount itself is a two piece unit, held together with 2 button head bolts and nylon lock nuts.
View attachment 208687
As seen from side profile, there is very little gap between the bottom of the mount and the roof, which reduces aero induced lift at high speed. The cable is routed out of the mount via a notch under the mount.
View attachment 208688
There is also an optional polycarbonate cover that is supposed to help with "protecting" the dish. However, after examining the piece and looking at how the piece is added, it is determined that the polycarbonate cover will/ can trap more dirt and moisture since there is no seal between the cover and the mount.
View attachment 208689
One workaround is to add rubber or silicone gasket to achieve a 100% water and dust proof seal, however, that could also lead to overheating issues due to poor ventilation. In addition, there are small holes on the unit itself for ventilation, so it will still not be 100% water and dust proof even with a seal.
View attachment 208690
One good thing about Trio over competition is its low profile. The mount (and the unit) are really profile, so it not only helps with aerodynamics (and keeping wind noise low), but also makes it harder to spot as it does not stand out at all.
View attachment 208691
I purchased a separate, longer power cord with USB-C, and wrapped it in some wire sleeve. Then, I left some slack for when I want to remove the unit from the roof for service or cleaning, and routed the cable to the top of GFC and bundled it with my existing solar cables.
View attachment 208692
Reason why I use wire sleeve: so it blends in with the solar cables.
I went a bit overboard with the cable length, as my original plan was to route it down to the frame then go up the firewall to go into the cab, and go to my Ecoflow Delta 2. But instead, I routed it to the LiFEPO4 in the bed.
I may change the wire to the shorter one, or I may just route it to the EcoFlow's USB-C output.

View attachment 208693
That's how it will sit for now. Will decide if I want to route it to the front or not in the coming days.

How do you like the Starlink? I am looking at getting one for the race trailer when we go racing as some of the tracks we go to are a bit "remote", also have you used the pause option?

 

[HSKR R/T]

@RAM REAPER MAN, please find these specific bolts:

after the drill you will insert this bolt in reverse

If he can't get the broken torx bit out of the screw, drilling will be difficult

 

[MotorcycleBoy]

If he can't get the broken torx bit out of the screw, drilling will be difficult

I agree. It's very difficult. Io farei così, partendo da una piccola punta da trapano e con tanta pazienza... and possibility of error

Inviato dal mio SM-F766B utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

F

Agreed

Drill and easy out! Pb blaster or winter green oil first.

Have drill, PB, and lots of bits

usually we find a torx or allen bit and "drive" it in with a hammer, then press on it as we use a ratchet to loosen it.
if that doesn't work then grind slot and use large flat head, but spray some WD-40 before you turn with flat head.

If your rotor is not warped or damaged then there's not really a need to change rotor.

I made sure to it was all the way seated with a hammer. I fooled with it some last night and the stuck bit part is wanting to come out.
I tried to use a 200 lbs. or regional equivalent magnet. I figured it wouldn't but its way to hard to pull straight out or it might come with it,

@RAM REAPER MAN, please find these specific bolts:

after the drill you will insert this bolt in reverse

I have some but I'm also unsure I have any that small. The picture I took is blown up so it does look much larger than it is.
They all came out easily but this one. I can move it some with a small pick so I'd like to think it wouldn't take much to move it